RichMax

iTrader: (2)

If someone could break this down for me a little bit, I'd appreciate it...

Do you:

apply Permatex grey to the outer rim first, then try to position the plate before the stuff dries (I have found a lot of the gray ends up going in unintended places)

Do you:

apply the gey to the plate, allow the grey to dry first, THEN try to put it in place?

Do you: put the plate as close as you physically can to its final resting place, THEN apply the grey? (this option seems ridiculous, even to a nooB like me).

Forgive my ignorance, as I have obviously never used gasket sealants before...

Oh, and how much leakage, if any, should you expect from the drainback HOSE, assuming it is clamped down tight? Anyone use a sealant on that hose as well?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

This part is important. If done wrong or carelessly, you will get a leak. However, it's easy to do. Remove the OEM plate. While being very careful to not get crap into the engine, remove the old residue/sealant. Ptatohed and I got every piece of residue out of the track too, buy using a small nail and vice grips, we scraped the old stuff out. Then clean the new oil drain back plate and the engine with rubbing alcohol. Now you're ready to apply the Permatex Grey to the oil drain back plate. Apply a good amount (but not too excessive) amount to the oil drain back plate and carefully put the plate into position and put the bolts back in. Torque them to spec. Wait 24 hours to cure completely. Don't be impatient and start the car any sooner.

There should be no leakage from the drainback hose if clamped down tight and proper. This is easy to do from underneath the car. Sealant is not necessary.

RichMax

iTrader: (2)

So there is no "dry-time" between putting the grey on the plate and mating the plate to the car?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

No. Read the back of the package, it should confirm this.