Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Definitely doesn't seem right to me. Given the little impromptu races you've had, there's no way you're only putting down 230 WHP.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

were you still running the 7psi spring?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Why's that? It sounds about right to me.

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

yes he is. The current situation with that is that the WG is getting its boost reference right out the turbo. Which would be fine if this was a front mount turbo. Being that its in the rear, and due to some of the crush bent/ corrugated tubing used at the 1st bend out of the turbo, by the time it gets to the engine its only boosting 5spsi (loss of 2psi).

So now the plan is to replace that bend with an actual mandrel bend, and run a very long vaccum hose to the front of the car and get the WG reference from there. That way the WG wont open until the ENGINE is getting the 7psi. Its one of those things that come up as you put the 1st of anything together. Little things that make a huge difference.

mtcookson

iTrader: (2)

I would think that would cause some crazy boost spikes. I'd just get a boost controller and turn it up a bit, that would seem a bit safer personally.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

ya i agree, i might get a controller. for now im going to replace the 90degree in the rear with a mandrel bent one. and see wat dat does.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

He beat a stock SRT-4. They put down that much power stock, weigh less, and have better gearing. He also said it felt similar to his 75-shot, and considering he's got an 00VI he should be in the 190 WHP range or so NA (possibly more, but that would be optimistic).

brasso

the guy with the srt-4 might not know how to drive

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I was actually in his car during that race. I can confidently say the reason he hung around with it is because of the super slow shifting of the guy in the SRT-4. He'd tell you the same thing. With a better driver i think the skittle would have slowly walked him. I don't like to bench race anymore though. Just my preference...


Anyway, this is why i like to say dyno numbers (in general) on their own are useless. They should only be used on a mod-for-mod comparison basis on the same machine. A dyno that gives you the highest numbers shouldn't be what someone is after cus any shop can inflate the numbers to make you feel good if that's what you're looking for.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Oh I'm not trying to bench race, I don't like that either. If you were in the car with Streetz and know the guy was shifting slowly, then I believe you I dunno, though, 230 still seems low to me...but, it could be low for a million different reasons if it IS low.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

will you also be looking to get a new b-pipe with mandrel bens or just smooth out the charge side for now

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

He has had a full custom 2.5" exhaust since before I met him. So the B-pipe is of no concern. Its that bend in the charge piping that needs to be worked out.

BTW, Controller is in . Boost was adjusted up to 6.5psi. There is a spike just as it first starts to spool on 1st gear, but it only jumps to 7psi. Turbo is slightly louder, pulls nicely slightly stronger (noticeable though, no placebo here). A/F it still in the high 10s low 11s, so its coming out great thus far

choray911

iTrader: (1)

Just be patient, this is a process. Rome wasn't made ina day.

brs2c

Also on racing from a roll (my cup of tea) try brake boosting (holding the brakes and pressing the gas, you can then begin your race with full boost, not to mention the intimidation of being next to a car spooling its *** off.

brs2c

Oh I almost forgot to mention, methanol injection is a great way to keep IT's down and allow for more boost.

ghostmax301

iTrader: (7)

LMFAO...lol... Soccer mom and kids at the light, next to a car that resembles her DD..Making a weird jet like noise

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

so you mean for example rolling at like 30mph while holding the brakes causing more load on engine and more spool for uber take off? interesting!!

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

yeah if you spend any time on supraforums you will soon pick up on brake boosting. you got the idea. Actually im sure on supraforums ive read of some people loosing control because they arent use to the instant power when brake boosting. sweet project man!!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

awsome, Maybe having the a/c on while brake boosting will also help with spool up lol since the a/c creates more load on the engine in theory it should work, and when you go WOT a/c shuts off so it wont be a problem... hmmm lol

brs2c

Enjoy the brake boosting, not sure of the exact composition of your brake pads, but I have ceramic pads (the cheapest O'reily ones about $40) on the front of my car and the pads are still going strong and the stock rotor is still fine also, in spite of my frequent brake boosting over the last 1.5 years. (just in case you end up having to swap pads in the next 6 months :-) )

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

just weighing in, the brake boosting works. I've tried it a few times. You do wanna make sure you have decent pads though. It takes some getting used to, I would be careful the first few times you do it. ONe time i was doing it the car literally jumped half a lane over. Technically it might not wanna be something you do too often in a FWD car with no lsd especially. Congrats on the car and getting it running better and better! Lose that bend in the charge ASAP though!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

thanx alot for the brake boosting advice guys, I shall give it a try. Im going to change that bend in the charge pipe this week with a mandrel bent one.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

What are you refering too?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

UPDATE

Ok, I am back to n/a right now. I was driving and car just started to die on me, pulled to side of the road several times. then eventually I removed the z32 MAF and put the stock one back on. car ran fine. Basically the z32 maf is dead!! There was oil all over the maf even dripping from the actual sensor inside. Chances are, the turbo is blown. so i am no in search of a rebuild kit to change the seals.

Another possible cause is that I noticed it takes approximately 2 minutes for the pump to remove all the oil from the return line after engine is off. Normally I would just wait 30-40 seconds. MAYBE since all this time i have been leaving oil puddle up, it has been going thru the seals while the car was off, so everytime i start it, it just shoots it in the chargepipe. I am going to clean the entire chargepipe and make the return line shorter to the pump so it picks up oil quicker. Then get a turbo timer off ebay for like 50 bucks and set the pump to run 2mins. If after this the chargepipe is still getting oil. im going to have to rebuild the damn thing.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

damn sorry to hear that, did you ever get the check valve or was the problem with the return line the cause

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Time for the closed-loop system - oil in a tank in the trunk, turbo timer, a line loop dropped below the turbo bearing level to trap oil, separate scavenge pump on the timer/ignition and supply pump on the ignition.... but what do I know? I spray.....

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Your right, thats what i want to do. But, the turbo is too low, and i cant mount a tank below it so that the oil can drip into the tank. all i need is a timer to solve that problem. and also to make the return line shorter, instead of looping down then coming up to the trunk and then to the pump. im going to have it go straight into the trunk by where the spare tire is supposed to sit and have the pump sit down there as well. so that the oil dosnt travel vertically. Its a more direct flow and less work for the pump to pull the oil. I really hope that the turbo is not bad. but it seems that way.

z32drifter

Have you considered using gravity feed for the turbo oil supply and then let the pump return the oil to the supply tank??? I would think that with out restrictors in the supply line the oil would flow at the rate the pump could return it to the tank. I'm assuming that the oil is strickly for lube and cooling of the turbo and not for supporting the turbo bearing.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

He'd need an independent oil system for that I would think (to place things correctly and make it work properly), which he hasn't done yet, but I agree on your idea.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

good idea. but, does that work? gravity fed feed line into the turbo? i think there has to be some kind of pressure on the feed. Another problem is. when the car is off. that gravity feed line is still going to be dropping oil into the turbo. Actually this wont work at all. well it might work but dosnt solve my problem. My problem is that oil remains on the return when i turn off the car. its going to be the same case if i have a stand alone oil system. All i need is a turbo timer to run the pump for 2 mins after engine is off.


Anyone use them ebay turbo timers?

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I still say you should convert to a closed system anyway, regardless of how you use it/do it. Get to work building the hold tank

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Two pumps - one to scavenge on a timer after the engine is off, and one to supply oil to the turbo when the ignition is on, both from a common tank.


Leave a little loop, or drop, under the turbo where oil can drain down away from the turbo and the scavenge pump can pick it up and put it back into the tank. This would clean out the bearing and oil from the turbo. WHen you start the car, both pumps come on and you get proper oil flow through the turbo bearing. Orifice the pressure pump so it provides a little less oil than the scavenge pump picks up - plently of oil flow through the bearing, no surplus oil to pull into the turbo, because the scavenge pump is pulling it out faster than it's being pushed into the bearing.

But what do I know? I spray....

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Have you seen how low his turbo sits already

scrhale

Has anyone else taken up this idea and started their own projects?

Oh and kinda related, but a little off-topic: If you put a turbo right off of the exhaust manifold, wouldn't you need a TON of custom exhaust since you can't use a standard y-pipe?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

hmm guys. It just hit me, why not just put a check valve on the damn return line!!! that way oil can drip out of the turbo and get pulled up by the pump. but when pump shuts off the valve will keep it from flowing back into the turbo!!! that will solve it

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

How about the supply-side line? Isn't that full of oil from the engine, and would it eventually leak into the turbo bearing with the engine shut off?

Maybe a check-valve on the pick-up line and a pressure valve on the supply side would keep the oil where it belongs when the engine is shut off??? I guess that is the real problem....

From half a continent away, it's a fascinating problem to me. To you, it's a nightmare. Ah,yes, being on the cutting edge often means you gotta bleed some. Just trying to help you think of an answer by stirring up the thinking here..

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

The supply already has a presure valve. it allows fluid to go by when it reaches certain pressure like 1 or 2 psi. thats why im only mentioning the return.

thanx for the suggestions.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

UPDATE!

The whole project has come to the END

My car is basically underivable and there is no logical reason why its acting up. So im probably just going to give up on it, im thinking of buying a beater car for bout $1500 or so to drive around and occasionally work on this one till i figure out whats wrong.

Im going to remove vafc2 tomorrow and see if any wires on the ecu are loose.

BTW, my problem is non turbo related so i still consider my rear mounted turbo setup successful.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

what problems?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I start the car, car idles fine and a/f is rich as it should be because of the z32 injectors and stock maf. Then i start driving the car and at any random time the a/f goes extremely lean to 20's and car just bogs to the point u can barely accelerate. Then after a while a/f goes back to how it was before and car is drivable again and runs fine. This event of car leaning out for no reason happens really random, whether its at idle, or while cruising on the highway or at any damn time. It is not the MAF because i have tested 3 different MAF's. No obvious vacum leaks known. Only thing we have left to do is maybe loose wires on the ECU which i do have loose wires, so im going to take off vafc2 tomorrow and clean up the wiring on the ecu. maybe even test another auto's ecu.

Also the fuel pressure is perfect at 34 or 35 w/e i have it set too, so its not the fuel pump.