First ever Rear Mounted Turbo maxima
#1
First ever Rear Mounted Turbo maxima
Well I have kept this project a bit secretive. 95blkmax, s0ber, and I (did most of the work lol), set out on a quest to prove or disprove that a rear mount turbo will not be efficient on a maxima....
We have disproved this notion. buahahhahahhh.
__________________________________________________ ______
now to the fact:
Before I list everything i did, this project was meant to work on a small budget of around $1,700.
I selected a T04B (.60ar compressor, .69ar turbine) since thats what 95blkmax had in his garage along with his 370 injectors and oil pressure gauge. I basically cut off the muffler and had a T4 flange welded as u can see on the pics below. that took care of the exhaust piping. Now for the charge pipe, i just purchased two 7' long 2" pipes and cut it myself. cost me bout 30 bucks for them pipes. i used radiator hose for the turns (since they handle alot of heat and pressure), also used regular worm gear clamps. I ran the charge pipe along the floor pan on driver side, pipe goes passed the tranny(auto) along cross member and up to the engine bay.
The hardest part was to figure what to do about oil system for the turbo. I used a scavange pump that has been used for the same application before succesfully. The turbo gets oil from a T off the oil pressure switch location. the drain is a -8 line i belive that goes out the turbo and into the trunk into the oil pump (scavange pump can pull liquid from 2feet below), then the pump takes the oil and shoots it to the front of the car into the front valve cover (will be tapping the lower oil pan soon for better return) the pump is capable of flowing that oil to the front at around 60psi max. I used a 1/16 nitrous jet i drilled on the turbo as a restrictor so the turbo dosnt get oil pressure that the engine produces and damage the seals.
I used a 38mm Tial WG, with a 7.25psi spring and a Turbo XS RFL BOV. so far i have 370cc injectors(z32) installed. Still using stock fuel pump and stock MAF.
Now for results:
Please bare with me i do not have dyno info YET (next weekend)
Air/Fuel at WOT stays at 10.0-10.5:1 upto redline (or the autos shifts)
now for boost efficiency, as predicted I do have some lag in first gear but only till 3,000 RPM, at 3k the turbo starts spooling and shows full boost at around 3800 (which is the same RPM it showed full boost with this same turbo on another 4th gen). The WG has a 7.25psi spring and i only see about slightly over 5psi in full boost (i belive the BOV might be leaking since i have not adjusted it). Since i am automatic I keep full boost throught all the gears above that. With a properly selected turbo size, a rear mount can probably be as efficient as a front mount.
Time for pics:
We have disproved this notion. buahahhahahhh.
__________________________________________________ ______
now to the fact:
Before I list everything i did, this project was meant to work on a small budget of around $1,700.
I selected a T04B (.60ar compressor, .69ar turbine) since thats what 95blkmax had in his garage along with his 370 injectors and oil pressure gauge. I basically cut off the muffler and had a T4 flange welded as u can see on the pics below. that took care of the exhaust piping. Now for the charge pipe, i just purchased two 7' long 2" pipes and cut it myself. cost me bout 30 bucks for them pipes. i used radiator hose for the turns (since they handle alot of heat and pressure), also used regular worm gear clamps. I ran the charge pipe along the floor pan on driver side, pipe goes passed the tranny(auto) along cross member and up to the engine bay.
The hardest part was to figure what to do about oil system for the turbo. I used a scavange pump that has been used for the same application before succesfully. The turbo gets oil from a T off the oil pressure switch location. the drain is a -8 line i belive that goes out the turbo and into the trunk into the oil pump (scavange pump can pull liquid from 2feet below), then the pump takes the oil and shoots it to the front of the car into the front valve cover (will be tapping the lower oil pan soon for better return) the pump is capable of flowing that oil to the front at around 60psi max. I used a 1/16 nitrous jet i drilled on the turbo as a restrictor so the turbo dosnt get oil pressure that the engine produces and damage the seals.
I used a 38mm Tial WG, with a 7.25psi spring and a Turbo XS RFL BOV. so far i have 370cc injectors(z32) installed. Still using stock fuel pump and stock MAF.
Now for results:
Please bare with me i do not have dyno info YET (next weekend)
Air/Fuel at WOT stays at 10.0-10.5:1 upto redline (or the autos shifts)
now for boost efficiency, as predicted I do have some lag in first gear but only till 3,000 RPM, at 3k the turbo starts spooling and shows full boost at around 3800 (which is the same RPM it showed full boost with this same turbo on another 4th gen). The WG has a 7.25psi spring and i only see about slightly over 5psi in full boost (i belive the BOV might be leaking since i have not adjusted it). Since i am automatic I keep full boost throught all the gears above that. With a properly selected turbo size, a rear mount can probably be as efficient as a front mount.
Time for pics:
#7
There is a guy here in Maine with a rear mounted turbo on his 3rd gen. Hes had it for well over a year, maybe more like 2 years. Last I knew it blew from oiling issues. I hope you dont have a problem. You may want to rotate the center section so the oil flows from top to bottom.
#11
Originally Posted by JSutter
There is a guy here in Maine with a rear mounted turbo on his 3rd gen. Hes had it for well over a year, maybe more like 2 years. Last I knew it blew from oiling issues. I hope you dont have a problem. You may want to rotate the center section so the oil flows from top to bottom.
#12
thanx all for the props. well to answer all the questions.
jcy98maxse: Well i ended up using 2" piping, due to clearance issues. if i woulda used something wider i would scrape even more. i barely scrape now, only over huge speed bumps. I will be fixing this tomrow since the piping right below the driver seat can get closer to the car by like .5 inch.
trialt: Well it idles just like it did when i was n/a and drives the same. only difference is when you go over 3k you suddenly unleash a monster lol. I would say its very efficient.
|Bijan| : Yes it is my daily driver and my only car, I will be putting a filter on tommorow first thing, and I have also driven in the rain already with no problems. the turbo sits pretty high off the ground specially since with my suspension the rear end is pretty high (progress springs)
thanx all for the props i will keep this thread updated as much possible.
btw this BOV is crazy loud!! lol I might have to adjust it though because I think under full boost it may be leaking cuz i hear an air leaking sound from the front. i removed all the washers from the BOV which makes it more sensitive to let off. maybe the pressurized air is pushing it open a lil iv herd its common with the RFL BOV
jcy98maxse: Well i ended up using 2" piping, due to clearance issues. if i woulda used something wider i would scrape even more. i barely scrape now, only over huge speed bumps. I will be fixing this tomrow since the piping right below the driver seat can get closer to the car by like .5 inch.
trialt: Well it idles just like it did when i was n/a and drives the same. only difference is when you go over 3k you suddenly unleash a monster lol. I would say its very efficient.
|Bijan| : Yes it is my daily driver and my only car, I will be putting a filter on tommorow first thing, and I have also driven in the rain already with no problems. the turbo sits pretty high off the ground specially since with my suspension the rear end is pretty high (progress springs)
thanx all for the props i will keep this thread updated as much possible.
btw this BOV is crazy loud!! lol I might have to adjust it though because I think under full boost it may be leaking cuz i hear an air leaking sound from the front. i removed all the washers from the BOV which makes it more sensitive to let off. maybe the pressurized air is pushing it open a lil iv herd its common with the RFL BOV
#14
thanx, i am just starting. its running but theres alot i have to learn about having a good turbo setup. as for butt dyno, it feels like my nitrous (75shot i had). so i maybe in the mid 200's maybe 250ish. a/f is still at around 10'ish.
#15
I really like the simplicity of these setups. If yours proves to be reliable Im sure many will follow. Its cheap, effective, relatively simple install, and tossing it back to stock is very easy.
#18
Thanx all for the input. I30mike, I am planning on very very soon doing water injection with a similar scavenge pump, since i rather not do FMIC because it will add even more distance to the charge pipe. Water injection should hopefully help keep detonation down if theres any at all. I might need some advice from you guys with this whole turbo project once a while since im new to it. I just put in mobil 1 synthetic (usually use castrol gtx, when i drained it it looked like water lol, maybe the turbos heat caused it to brake down too much or something).
#20
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Thanx all for the input. I30mike, I am planning on very very soon doing water injection with a similar scavenge pump, since i rather not do FMIC because it will add even more distance to the charge pipe. Water injection should hopefully help keep detonation down if theres any at all. I might need some advice from you guys with this whole turbo project once a while since im new to it. I just put in mobil 1 synthetic (usually use castrol gtx, when i drained it it looked like water lol, maybe the turbos heat caused it to brake down too much or something).
Heh - I see what you did - and it's all good...... With high power/heat engines, you need a synthetic oil. After 3 months of blasting the tracks, my Mobil1 looks the same when I drain it as the new stuff I pour in. Insurance.
Use race fuel if you race - either Sunoco 104 (blue stuff) or VP Racing Street Blaze 103 (red stuff) is formulated to eliminate detonation and preignition. Don't forget the shaved-ground plugs and voltage booster things I do - all those will directly apply to boost, and they are also Insurance.
You need to think about your tranny a bit, if you push 300 hp - a VLSD automatic and Edge torque converter will let you perform much better, and that's more Insurance! Plus then you too can lock your torque converter clutch with a switch, just like me. (and the Buick GN turbo guys).... See the nitrous forum.
I really like your "tailpipe turbo" project - I can get my exhaust built up and still use everything with a turbo in the future - except a cutout.
Good job...
#21
Wow, very interested in numbers/more details/durability.
May be a nice way for some guys to get their feet wet with lower boost setups. Radiator hoses would make me nervous as well as the turbo being exposed.
May be a nice way for some guys to get their feet wet with lower boost setups. Radiator hoses would make me nervous as well as the turbo being exposed.
#22
Originally Posted by Fr33way™
Radiator hoses would make me nervous as well as the turbo being exposed.
#24
wuts up grey99, now you know why i have been so quiet in the shift_mod threads, iv been working on this turbo thing =). I definitely will benefit from a high stall tq converter specially since i have lag in 1st gear. I just had a couple of runs with a stock srt4 with an average driver, and i am completely even with him (30mph - 100mph). front wheels side by side the whole run, which means I "may be" in the mid low 14's. but thats just speculation.
as for the turbo being exposed and using radiator hose being scary. Well radiator hoses are meant to hold liquid pressure and lots of heat, and im only at 5-6psi so there is no problem there. as for the turbo being exposed, the turbo is not exposed at all, you cant even see it if you look down, to be able to see it you gotta basically lay down on the floor and look up, thats how high up it is. its very hidden up there.
as for the turbo being exposed and using radiator hose being scary. Well radiator hoses are meant to hold liquid pressure and lots of heat, and im only at 5-6psi so there is no problem there. as for the turbo being exposed, the turbo is not exposed at all, you cant even see it if you look down, to be able to see it you gotta basically lay down on the floor and look up, thats how high up it is. its very hidden up there.
#25
Originally Posted by Fr33way™
Well then arn't you just Johnny Wrench.
Relevant Results: 0
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
its very hidden up there.
#26
Originally Posted by Tatanko
Google Search: Johnny Wrench
Relevant Results: 0
Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's safe from things flying up and hitting it or you accidentally going over a big bump and bottoming out. Yes, you can try and avoid these things, but there's always those "oops" moments. It would be as simple as buying a sheet of metal, bending it, and finding a way to secure it right underneath the turbo.
Relevant Results: 0
Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's safe from things flying up and hitting it or you accidentally going over a big bump and bottoming out. Yes, you can try and avoid these things, but there's always those "oops" moments. It would be as simple as buying a sheet of metal, bending it, and finding a way to secure it right underneath the turbo.
But danger of bottoming out that turbo are slim to none. Its pretty high up- about 5" above the bottom level of the rear beam, and those custom exhaust hangers yield no movement of that whole rear section, so that turbo wont ever hit the ground unless we accidentally drop it as we unbolt it one day
BTW, another comparison result, brand new carrera S, streetz got walked away by one. That's pretty awesome! Do some tuning, adjust the leaky BOV, and drop the passenger (usually myself, nismology, or s0ber, lol) and he'd be on his *** or walkin him!
#28
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
wuts up grey99, now you know why i have been so quiet in the shift_mod threads, iv been working on this turbo thing =). I definitely will benefit from a high stall tq converter specially since i have lag in 1st gear. I just had a couple of runs with a stock srt4 with an average driver, and i am completely even with him (30mph - 100mph). front wheels side by side the whole run, which means I "may be" in the mid low 14's. but thats just speculation.
You'll need some tweaking of the automatic, all right. Heh - another Shift_Fast_2 user is coming up... Somebody mentioned installing a local oil supply and pump in the rear for the turbo - what do you think of that idea? It seems like that could make the installation easier and more reliable, but what do I know about turbos ??
What you really need is to launch with nitrous and cut it off when you reach boost - the best of both worlds... You must had some creative friends around, too. Any thoughts about how large of a turbo will work in the back? And how much boost you should be able to squeeze out of what you're running? With race gas and trick plugs, you shouldn't have any detonation, so I think about 30psi of boost should do you....
#29
Originally Posted by grey99max
I'm gonna nominate you for the "King Of The Tailpipe Turbo" award.
You'll need some tweaking of the automatic, all right. Heh - another Shift_Fast_2 user is coming up... Somebody mentioned installing a local oil supply and pump in the rear for the turbo - what do you think of that idea? It seems like that could make the installation easier and more reliable, but what do I know about turbos ??
What you really need is to launch with nitrous and cut it off when you reach boost - the best of both worlds... You must had some creative friends around, too. Any thoughts about how large of a turbo will work in the back? And how much boost you should be able to squeeze out of what you're running? With race gas and trick plugs, you shouldn't have any detonation, so I think about 30psi of boost should do you....
You'll need some tweaking of the automatic, all right. Heh - another Shift_Fast_2 user is coming up... Somebody mentioned installing a local oil supply and pump in the rear for the turbo - what do you think of that idea? It seems like that could make the installation easier and more reliable, but what do I know about turbos ??
What you really need is to launch with nitrous and cut it off when you reach boost - the best of both worlds... You must had some creative friends around, too. Any thoughts about how large of a turbo will work in the back? And how much boost you should be able to squeeze out of what you're running? With race gas and trick plugs, you shouldn't have any detonation, so I think about 30psi of boost should do you....
#30
damn you got me thinking now and I just posted a thread the other day about needing more power. This looks like a simple setup can't wait till I see the dyno #'s. The only thing I would change is a stand alone oil supply for the turbo like the pro-charger setup. and maybe alittle smaller turbo so boost will kick in around 3000rpms and not 3800rpm or run nitrous since a already have it with a 3500rpm cutoff
great job and good luck, question will the muffler have to go back on to pass emissions
great job and good luck, question will the muffler have to go back on to pass emissions
#35
grey99, well im not going to mess with nitrous for a long time, in fact i might even use the nitrous solenoids for water/alchy injection. I really really wanna do a seperate oil supply. Like a lil tank in the back so that the turbo will get its own supply of oil. like a dry sump system.. but i really dont kno how to set it up. Iv looked for things online about it but just dont get good info on how to build my own. i would really love to do that, if you or anyone can offer any ideas about that, please let me know.
#36
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
grey99, well im not going to mess with nitrous for a long time, in fact i might even use the nitrous solenoids for water/alchy injection. I really really wanna do a seperate oil supply. Like a lil tank in the back so that the turbo will get its own supply of oil. like a dry sump system.. but i really dont kno how to set it up. Iv looked for things online about it but just dont get good info on how to build my own. i would really love to do that, if you or anyone can offer any ideas about that, please let me know.
Have any specs on the turbo? like max oil pressure and the volume you need for the turbo? It would probably need a timer after shutdown, as well, to keep from toasting bearings. This would so much easier to live with than engine oil lines, I think...
#37
Originally Posted by JSutter
I really like the simplicity of these setups. If yours proves to be reliable Im sure many will follow. Its cheap, effective, relatively simple install, and tossing it back to stock is very easy.
I KNOW with that Rear mount turbo, you can hear it LITERALY a mile away
Im looking foward to the dyno results and of this, seems to have caught my attn..
#40
Originally Posted by grey99max
I don't know squat about turbos, but if you're gonna race your new beast, think about a small fuel cell and a WOT switch to control cutting in race gas when you go WOT - automatically. I don't get spraying water/alcohol when you could use 104 octane and shaved-ground plugs, and be perfectly OK with high boost. Really high boost. I ran against an Eagle talon that did have 30psi boost, and a modified 2.4L engine, and he ran in the mid and low 11s. Whupped me big-time - on street tires. He used some of the same things...
Have any specs on the turbo? like max oil pressure and the volume you need for the turbo? It would probably need a timer after shutdown, as well, to keep from toasting bearings. This would so much easier to live with than engine oil lines, I think...
Have any specs on the turbo? like max oil pressure and the volume you need for the turbo? It would probably need a timer after shutdown, as well, to keep from toasting bearings. This would so much easier to live with than engine oil lines, I think...
water/alcohol injection is very inexpensive compared to race gas and might be just as effective from what i have read. and simple to do.
Neoloc: Well right now i am being slightly irresponsible with the filter. I went to home depot and bought a sheet of wire mesh. then got bunch of layers n put them together, thats my filter for now it basically will prevent large objects and lil rocks from being sucked in but not very good idea with small ****. I want to route piping to somewhere high and away from the turbo and put filter on it. hopefully this weekend ill do that.