nismology

iTrader: (8)

It's gonna be interesting to see how many people actually act on this.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Well as enthusiastic as I am about this, all of this research and effort I'm putting forth won't benefit me one bit probably until the end of the summer. I could have the money, but paying off my car before other potential costs come up at the start of school this fall comes first for me right now After that, I'll be snatching up some manifolds, though.

I'm mostly doing what I am because I love to help the community when I can, and if the information is there, why shouldn't I be the one to share it and help push the community forward?

doc2278

iTrader: (3)

Nissan Gloria

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I spy what looks to be an A32 MAF...

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

Yes it is the same, the MAF you see is run on all pre-era VQ's. (VQ20,25,30DE/ DETT)

Whitemax

OK now we need the part number for the engine cover too
hahahaha
So damn $200 for the manifolds, $60 for the crossover, and about 100 to $150 for the exhaust, this is very interesting. I think even at $350 for for the factory balance tube and manifolds isnt all that bad.

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

3/4 of the ppl in this thread will not act on this though.. I will not either until I follow the mistakes of others.

I mean, if you're not boosted now, then some new found manifold isn't gonna change that or your money situation so.. However, if I do go boost I'll devise a way to certain aspects/ concepts taken from this on a 3.5 which is still the far more capable IMO. I love the VQ30, I believe it to have been a higher quality engine with more R&D at the time than most give it credit for, but times change.

Good work Pat, you're always on the ball. But I still see you doing a roots S/C over this. So, that also lingers in my mind.





- Btw, That engine cover is BAD FAWKIN' @SS and that is a fact.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Not bad, no, but, don't forget oil lines, charge piping, fuel upgrades (although they could be mild depending what turbo and other setup features you run at low levels), gauges, and at least some kind of management (be it AFC, emanage, etc.).
I don't blame you for not wanting to pioneer. It's not easy, it's not quick, and it sometimes isn't cheap.
Thanks. Who knows what I'll end up doing. Likely whatever is cheaper, given that I'll be in college.

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

Well, at least it takes some money off the end price.. Custom manifolds/ downpipes can cost a bit and especially trying to route based on our y-pipe configs.

So, this is still a great idea.. I just hope more do it and figure out the solid ways around small issues.



^^^ Like Pat says, all the after equipment including the turbo and all said parts above, you're still talking a decent amount of money to be fair.


.. Why pioneer when you can let others with the time and money do it for you, time always tells and someone eventually always takes the torch and innovation continues.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Not THAT much, though. Oil lines and fittings aren't that expensive, neither is charge piping. There's very little exhaust work to be done (crossover if you choose to make your own, and a downpipe which is just a pipe with a flange on each end and some bends, maybe some O2 bungs). Z32 injectors are pretty cheap used, Walbro's are cheap, AFPR's are DIRT cheap. The most expense of all would be management, I think, since you'd want a wideband and either an Emanage or an AFC at the very least, along with the obligatory gauges.
Because sometimes it's fun to pioneer and do new things

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

Still a few grand.. In the end think about this, there's really not too much that goes into a S/C yet somehow it ends up being like 3-4k right? IIRC, perhaps I'm way off base, but in any case thats still a decent amount.

God, ramble, ramble. It's good stuff and this whole thread brings me to my special place and


I hope you guys make this stuff work the best it can and I'll be standing in line waiting to congradulate because I'm just as excited to see results.

DAVEB

iTrader: (133)

Thanks Pat, for the vote of confidence- Let me explain for the benefit of everyone, how ordering JDM parts goes- Any Nissan dealer, if they so choose, and know the part #, can order a JDM part through Nissan Motorsports. Very few dealers have the Japanese parts discs ( I do!), and can get a part #. If the part is available in Japan, it usually takes 6-9 weeks, must be pre-paid, and is yours when it comes in. Also, the prices I quoted definitely include the .org discount, and probably would not be honored at any Nissan dealership, if they even knew what to do, or were willing to do it. On that note, I will be happy to order as much of this stuff as you guys want!

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I think you'll be really, really surprised

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

No problem Dave. You deserve all the credit you get and more. You're invaluable to this community

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

I disagree, we will argue this on aim as per usual.





Also, me and DaveB are getting hitched

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I'm tempted to be the 1st one to try this.... but I want something like a GT30R to go along with it. Before I do all this, I am waiting for my "parts" guy to get me a wire harness thats cut and ECU to make myself a EU patch harness.

I have a EU, wideband, 550 Power Enterprise injectors.... rest of it isnt a big issue. But I want the patch harness before I do ANYTHING.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

The patch harness is a good idea. If you want to be first you better get moving though

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

Is there any information on the fuel delivery? That MAF must be running at the maximum if it is the same unit as ours no? I know the injectors are different than any US spec Maxima or Z32/Z33 but it makes me curious as to the VQ30DET is tuned as opposed to the setups of the turbo guys on this forum.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Certainly closer to the maximum than any NA car on these forums. I have no clue what the size of the fuel injectors is. The fuel rails even look to be the same, and would almost have to be to use injectors that can use our same lower intake manifold. Fuel pump is what has me curious, as well.

I'm guessing the ECU for the cars that come with this engine is tuned very conservatively in the area of timing, etc. as well.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Great pics. Hmm that's a north/south config.

boostlogic

iTrader: (2)

Very interesting... nice work Pat, and thanks for offering your service Dave, i'll be pm'ing you.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

In case anyone is interested in the prices of used parts from Japan, one of the people I contacted was able to give me a quote for both manifolds and the crossover pipe: $572.63 shipped

I'd say Dave is getting us a pretty good price

liqidvenom

iTrader: (6)

it also before the turbo so thats probally how they can get by with using it without maxing it out...just a hunch

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I would be worried about bigger turbos hitting the radiator

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

You can make a small elbow with flanges on it to position the turbo away from the radiator. It shouldn't cost alot to make. You will wanna put some brackets up to hold the turbo. Regardless if the manifolds are cast iron or not..... brackets will still be needed.

Thats my plan.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Sounds good to me. So an "L tube" to position it to where the batt is right?

liqidvenom

iTrader: (6)

i wonder if there is a company that might sell gloria aftermarket piping....because i wonder how we will mount up a wastegate to this current setup...

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Surfing some forums:

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

Also, to those concerned with the motor rocking forward and smashing the turbo into the radiator, what about something like this?



I realize this is still in a RWD configuration, but it's the idea I'm trying to get at.

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

A very sharp elbow is definitey going to be needed because there doesnt seem like there is much clearance at all. From the pics that TJ_Max posted up of the Gloria VQ30DET motor in a 4th gen, you can see that the A/C condenser was removed and the rad was moved forward into its place and its still an extremely tight fit. Heres the pics TJ_Max posted up:

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

Theres a degree of options.. On the one hand you have an engine built for boost that is obviously gonna have some issues. Yet in the end is probably still the better option IMO, besides the parts availability problem.

Then theres our DE's which can be modified with DET parts to still maintain a nearer to stock setup that would most likely have less issues, easier to fix and diagnose, yadda yadda.


It remains to be seen which will end up taking the cake for best setup.. Perhaps I'll do the DE version as an experiment, I have 3.5k currently so it's a matter of making up my mind.

Turbo and electronics could get for free through friends.. Much to consider.

boostlogic

iTrader: (2)

The biggest thing I feel we would be missing out on with the DET motor are the piston squirters, yet price and availability for me is much different then the Brooklyn clique that pulled that swap off; we have no magical jdm salvage yards where I live.

And to add my useless opinion, the VQ35 is still a superior motor. The money you would use to find/ship/install a VQ30DET, you could locate a nice VQ35 for around 500-600$ and get some rods/pistons to go with it. I mean lets be real, the DET might be more 'ideal' for boost, but the VQ35 head flow would outweigh my decision almost entirely.

Anyone thought about porting these Gloria manifolds and installing them on a 35DE with pistons/rods? Sounds enticing to me.

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I hadn't realized that the first time I saw those pics. All I saw was the radiator and didn't think much of it. Nevermind my idea then

Elbow it is.

bkmaxima

it not as tight as you guyz are thinking it is. iT just looks that way in the pic. i havent got a chance to put the custom rad in yet do to that fact that i had to start all over after my tragic theft problem you can read about that in the 4th gen Gloria thread if u want......but if you guyz were thinking about useing the manifolds i would suggest to fab a pipe over the battery area the only reason i didnt do that is beacuse i was going to have ground clear problems with the down pipe and it was doing to come real close to the fans if i tried to run it over that way so i left the turbo infront i have now down pipe isues i can slam the car the way i want to now...lol if you guyz have any questions u can ask me them in the other thread .......hope to see alot of people jump on this and take things to a new level good luck guyz

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I'm really at a loss here guys. They are just cast manifolds. If they were stock tubular that'd be something to shat your pants about. Please enlighten me. These manifolds could easily be duplicated by anyone with the tools. $75 for 1/2" mild steel manifold flanges laser cut. $30 for 1/2" crossover tube flanges. And buy your appropriate turbine flange somewhere for $50 or have it made locally for $20. $200 worth of various Sched steel elbows and straights and $10 worth of welding gas and wire. It'd take less than a day and the turbo placement could be anywhere you wanted.

Apparition

iTrader: (5)

I was getting at that talking to Pat over aim and he called me an ".org pessimist" lmao.. Damn you Pat.

I feel the same as well and then add the fact above.. Still a neat idea for a week or two until this passes on like everything else.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Any good machinist can add oil jets. As a matter of fact, the VQ35 oil jets could be added to a DE block if someone really wanted them.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

let me see to basically for manifolds what would be needed:

14004 (passenger side manifold)
14002 (driver side Manifold)
14036MA x 1 and 14036MB x1 (gaskets for the manifolds)
14008 (cross pipe)


Hey Tatanko, are these the part numbers DaveB will recognize and pull up in his system? I just ordered a handfull of parts from him not too long ago, He'll really have something to say now.

I have no doubt that the cross pipe will interfere with the coolant tube, but if anything, use the stock cross pipe as a reference and either get a fully new one made, or cut off the flanges and page a new pipe that will fit properly in the engine bay. A lot of wires, and tubes will need to be cautiously tucked out of the way.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

^^^^
I was going off the part numbers from the diagram provided. they seem to conflict a bit with the ones you listed tantako.


I think you already know the answer

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

You likely won't even need to give them to him. Just tell him what it is you want and I guarantee he's got the numbers laying right there (he's excited about this as well).
They do conflict, but Dave was never able to tell me why. The diagrams simply differ The part numbers I gave are the official ones used for ordering parts, though.
Good