Cool. I'll just give him the name of the parts and go from there.

 

just thought I would bump this and see how our friend was coming along with the project.. any luck with those pictures yet?

 

I came to conclusion these will not work on a FWD DE..... my speculation- and thats all I have right now is :

There is a coolant passage mounted on a FWD DE that the RWD DET does not have. This passage has your coolant temp sensors and its mounted on the front and rear heads- connecting them. Radiator hose goes to this passage..... notice RWD DET does not have them. Crossover pipe WILL hit this coolant passage. THere is no room for both passage and the crossover pipe.

Sorry to spoil anyones dreams of having cheap easy to bolt on "manifolds" for our cars.

I just don't think we can get away with it....

 

there is plenty of space next to the coolant pipe. Certain steps and precautions would need to be taken to ensure that running such a piping would be safe.

re-bent/welded cross pipe would still allow for this setup to work.

A lot of wiring would need to be tucked, moved, and/or protected from the heat.

the heat such a pipe would give off at that location is another issue. Engine bay temps would be extremely high. Ceramic coating could be an issue, some modification to the hood to allow better air flow could be a solution.

other hood modifications to the hood could allow for better air flow to help fight engine bay temps.

 

Alright well I guess, someone prove me wrong..... because there is no room for that kinda pipe 2" size on my DE-K.

I will be happy if it fits, I won't have to rig up no 350Z manifolds with a Ypipe to the turbo then..... I'm not doing anything till I have my patch harness for the EU. I don't like splicing into expenssive wire harness - especially knowing that Greddy EUs have been known to go bad..... removing it back to stock is a PITA.

 

the Z headers would be the next viable option. I was about to locate a set of stockers just to test fitment until this thread popped up.

the Z manifold already aims to the battery location, Z header in front, maybe same in back but chopped to feed to the front, and the rest falls in to place...


I have a 3" pipe laying around that I am going to test the space available next to the coolant pipe. take some pics and measure ments and post them up. I feel this will still work with a little custom modification to the cross pipe.

 

I tossed out the stock headers from a 350Z after doing some shortys on one few months ago.... but the front one will fit from what I remember.... rear one will hit the motor mount bracket. I seen some equal lenght shortys on Ebay.... I was going to give em a try on my car.... I drew up a few diff setups. But till I get my patch harness parts toghter, my hands are tied.

 

that would be the combination. Z header in the front, ebay header on the rear. custom pipe to connect the two. weld the proper flange on the end, and you've got a feed setup that is a bolt on (with some custom work).

I'll be falling back on the Z header setup should the GLoria not work. I'll be taking measurements tomorrow so I'll post up my results.

 

has anyone actuallly ordered the gloria manifolds?

 

well keeps us updated with what ever progress you are able to make....

 

I haven't ordered yet. Still taking measurements and making sure this will work, and determine what custom work would be needed in order to get a full grasp on how the install would go.

 

The cross pipe would more than like run into the coolant pipe on the side of the motor, but based on these images, there is space to cut and re-bend the cross pipe for better clearance.

that is a 2.5" coupler (still need to install that on my exhaust)

 

The heat alone is going to cause you a good deal of problems if you dont super shield it..

 

Yeah, the idea isn't looking to hot to me anymore.

 

...and I think Dylan knows my future plans haha

 

 

I agree heat will become a serious issue, even more than a reverse Y, but ceramic coating and/or exhaust wrap could help to keep temps down. Especially ceramic coating.

 

Were talking REALLY fawkin hot.. header wrap and coatings just aren't gonna pull the job here.

You're gonna need a heat shielding system of some sort and some killer @ss fans blowing through the shielding system to ensure you dont push your coolants temps through the roof, or more importantly burn through the surrounding hoses altogether.

A top mount T3/T4 on my RB25 running 9/18psi (low/high) was 3 inches from the brake master cylinder and melted right through the side of the reservoir. The downpipe was even coated with header wrap. If you run the car around enough without proper shields, you're gonna have some problems most likely.


You're also gonna have less room than that for sure..

 

Interesting. . . the pipe would be close to the brake master cylinder, more than likely under 3" away from it...

damn.....

cause I dont see how much different engine bay temps would be versus a forward Y, another setup, a lot of the feed piping will be under the hood, there for raising the temps. But the main problem for usinging these manifold and the cross pipe or modified one, is a lot of wiring has to be cleaned up, wrapped, and zip tied out of the way. Those two coolant lines will need some adjusting/moving.

Now that I think about it I wonder how strong the greese in our starters are. I'm sure it can handle a hight temp, but a custom cross pipe would pass right over it, more than likely heating the starter to higher temps than it would normally see.

damn, I want to see this manifold work safely.... hmmm

 

Possible, but the reverse Y or w/e config > crosspipe unless you re-route quite a few things and I'm not generalizing about engine bay temps, I'm specifically speaking on coolant temperatures and any other apparatus in close proximity to the turbo manifold (+crosspipe in your case). Don't just think oh I think it can take the heat. You have to consider this, can it take that heat and more every day without fail?..

With the other setups I've seen the reason heat is not a problem is as long as the turbo has about 2-3 clearance around it, or is in an area predominantly consisting of metal and not much else (isolated) is gonna be completely fine with some fans.. No worries. But you're setup is running a major heat artery right through the worst possible area of the engine you can.

In any case, keep tampering if you must haha.

 

this is true. I am just deperately trying to find something that can help from this ended up as being non-pheasable on our cars. Everyone loves bolt on, especially if it could be applied to boost.

I knew that area the cross pipe would be going thru would be a tought on, but once I looked and put my 2.5 mini pipe thru and saw the conflicts that will occur, plus the heat being so close to the master cylinder.

time for plan B....

 

no solutions?