Turbo Specialties VQ30 turbo kit review
04-18-2007, 05:10 PM
#1
Doctor D I presume???
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Turbo Specialties VQ30 turbo kit review
As some of you already know, I recently installed the turbo specialties turbo kit for the VQ30!
Here is my opinion of it thus far:
Pros: This kit is one of the most complete kits ive seen ans since there are not alot of companies putting out turbo kits for the max, that says alot.
Kit came with an all in one computer control unit, Which includes, turbo timer, boost controller, qm run boost data logger,injector driver( this kit comes with a compensative set of injectors so you dont run lean),I was VERY impressed with this since its not that hard to wire in!!! So the less electronic equipment YOu have to buy the better. And Yes it works like it should!!! turbo timer and all.
The Kit also comes with a new motor mount and engine Bracket, And Bolts to install it.
Turbo manifold as well as down pipes are ALL INCLUDED IN THIS KIT.
INSTALL:
Heres where it was tricky, some key points to think about here is,... Dropping the oil pan to install your oil return fitting, (this was the only thing I outsourced and costed roughly 450.00 to do,.. just FYI)
Now the oil return line itself is a fiber wrapped 5/8 inch rubber tube. I would recommend getting Steel braided 5/8 line at your local pepboys (got mine for 32.00) Also get a 5/8 L fitting and 5/8 inch collars. ( this is so anything that flies up off the road wont cut that line.)
The heat shield that comes with this kit needs to be trimmed to fit. I recommend that you get a table mounted rotary grinder ( 2 sanding wheels with a motor in the middle to put it simply) This is so you can grind down the sharp edges when you trim the shield. To cut this shield I used large Metal shears, but you can use a dremel with a cutting disc. I would also recommend using a marker when marking out your trim areas on the shield itself.
Now to the Turbo,
The Top oil inlet tube needs to be bent a little otherwise it runs into the fan ( will edit this with pics this week for you guys). To bend the tube, I bought a aluminum tube bender from Autozone (6.00). I then marked the tube at the points in which it needed to be bent. Then I ground the edge of the fitting where it would interupt the fan. A Dremel will do the job just fine here, dont grind too much though or else you comprimise the integrity of the fitting.
Here is my opinion of it thus far:
Pros: This kit is one of the most complete kits ive seen ans since there are not alot of companies putting out turbo kits for the max, that says alot.
Kit came with an all in one computer control unit, Which includes, turbo timer, boost controller, qm run boost data logger,injector driver( this kit comes with a compensative set of injectors so you dont run lean),I was VERY impressed with this since its not that hard to wire in!!! So the less electronic equipment YOu have to buy the better. And Yes it works like it should!!! turbo timer and all.
The Kit also comes with a new motor mount and engine Bracket, And Bolts to install it.
Turbo manifold as well as down pipes are ALL INCLUDED IN THIS KIT.
INSTALL:
Heres where it was tricky, some key points to think about here is,... Dropping the oil pan to install your oil return fitting, (this was the only thing I outsourced and costed roughly 450.00 to do,.. just FYI)
Now the oil return line itself is a fiber wrapped 5/8 inch rubber tube. I would recommend getting Steel braided 5/8 line at your local pepboys (got mine for 32.00) Also get a 5/8 L fitting and 5/8 inch collars. ( this is so anything that flies up off the road wont cut that line.)
The heat shield that comes with this kit needs to be trimmed to fit. I recommend that you get a table mounted rotary grinder ( 2 sanding wheels with a motor in the middle to put it simply) This is so you can grind down the sharp edges when you trim the shield. To cut this shield I used large Metal shears, but you can use a dremel with a cutting disc. I would also recommend using a marker when marking out your trim areas on the shield itself.
Now to the Turbo,
The Top oil inlet tube needs to be bent a little otherwise it runs into the fan ( will edit this with pics this week for you guys). To bend the tube, I bought a aluminum tube bender from Autozone (6.00). I then marked the tube at the points in which it needed to be bent. Then I ground the edge of the fitting where it would interupt the fan. A Dremel will do the job just fine here, dont grind too much though or else you comprimise the integrity of the fitting.
04-18-2007, 05:36 PM
#2
Doctor D I presume???
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The Turbo itself,
I had to loosen the intake side to rotate the snail shell so it was facing upward properly (I test fitted the radiator several times at this point in order to ensure proper fit.) I then Locked down the bolts on the intake side of the turbo when I was satisfied using either a 12mil or 14 mil (cant remember now). The Oil return fitting at the bottom of the turbo assembly needs to be tight against the turbo otherwise oil every where, My paper like gasket got a little pinched, leaving an escape route for oil LOL. Got it squared up and retightened.
Now to the Manifold:
Here it got a little tricky, Putting the manifold on can be painful if not done properly, this part needs 2 people to do it right. Tip: install a new gasket first and foremost, next Place the BOTTOM CENTER LUG NUT in the hole provided at the bottom of the manifold, THEN SLIDE THE MANIFOLD/ TURBO ASSEMBLY on the studs, finger tighten the bottom center nut, then use an Open Ended crescent wrench to tighten it down, Note: Follow FSM guidelines on how to tighten down the manifold.
The O2 sensor has a pre-threaded hole in the manifold, HOWEVER!!! the bracket that holds on the wastegate needs to be trimmed in order to have the O2 sensor thread properly. Again here use a marker, mark out where you need to trim and use the table mounted grinder to remove the material. Test fit Test Fit Test FIT!!! make sure there is enough clearance between the bracket and the O2 sensor. Again do not take out too much or else your wategate wont be on the turbo long.
The Charge pipe/ intercooler assembly:
This was a fun part, cause once your here,.... your almost ready to run.
I cut holes using a dremel into the plastic underpans on either side of the car to run the charge pipe, The longest pipe (pipe 7 on the assembly list for the kit) on the driver's side set up needs to be shortened at the long end only because it drops the charge pipe 1.5 inches below the facia line. You can achieve this cut by using a dremel with a cutting wheel.
The Brackets for the intercooler where installed on the bottom portion of the support frame. Using Self tapping Bolt screws ( home depot -2.50) I bolted on the brackets. Here's a tip: Install all your charge piping before you install the intercooler that way you can center the cooler better.
Wiring:
JUst follow the instructions here, they are pretty self- explainatory, Only thing you need to be concerned about is where you place the device in the car and What wire on the Ecu needs to be tapped ( Tachometer wire) FSM has this info in it. If you need the FSM, Check out Phatg20.com. its there trust me.
UP AND RUNNING:
there is going to be a bit of tweaking here so pay attention.
After everything has been put back on the car and you have inspected it to ensure proper fits. Start the car up, check for leaks around the manifold, ( just tighten down the bolts here and that will fix that issue) Check the fuel line, make sure it is not leaking. I went easy on my car for the first seven days so the ECU could learn, and it did- it retarded the timing on its own. Make sure the bolt on your Blow off valve is scewed down otherwise its a boost leak.
I had to loosen the intake side to rotate the snail shell so it was facing upward properly (I test fitted the radiator several times at this point in order to ensure proper fit.) I then Locked down the bolts on the intake side of the turbo when I was satisfied using either a 12mil or 14 mil (cant remember now). The Oil return fitting at the bottom of the turbo assembly needs to be tight against the turbo otherwise oil every where, My paper like gasket got a little pinched, leaving an escape route for oil LOL. Got it squared up and retightened.
Now to the Manifold:
Here it got a little tricky, Putting the manifold on can be painful if not done properly, this part needs 2 people to do it right. Tip: install a new gasket first and foremost, next Place the BOTTOM CENTER LUG NUT in the hole provided at the bottom of the manifold, THEN SLIDE THE MANIFOLD/ TURBO ASSEMBLY on the studs, finger tighten the bottom center nut, then use an Open Ended crescent wrench to tighten it down, Note: Follow FSM guidelines on how to tighten down the manifold.
The O2 sensor has a pre-threaded hole in the manifold, HOWEVER!!! the bracket that holds on the wastegate needs to be trimmed in order to have the O2 sensor thread properly. Again here use a marker, mark out where you need to trim and use the table mounted grinder to remove the material. Test fit Test Fit Test FIT!!! make sure there is enough clearance between the bracket and the O2 sensor. Again do not take out too much or else your wategate wont be on the turbo long.
The Charge pipe/ intercooler assembly:
This was a fun part, cause once your here,.... your almost ready to run.
I cut holes using a dremel into the plastic underpans on either side of the car to run the charge pipe, The longest pipe (pipe 7 on the assembly list for the kit) on the driver's side set up needs to be shortened at the long end only because it drops the charge pipe 1.5 inches below the facia line. You can achieve this cut by using a dremel with a cutting wheel.
The Brackets for the intercooler where installed on the bottom portion of the support frame. Using Self tapping Bolt screws ( home depot -2.50) I bolted on the brackets. Here's a tip: Install all your charge piping before you install the intercooler that way you can center the cooler better.
Wiring:
JUst follow the instructions here, they are pretty self- explainatory, Only thing you need to be concerned about is where you place the device in the car and What wire on the Ecu needs to be tapped ( Tachometer wire) FSM has this info in it. If you need the FSM, Check out Phatg20.com. its there trust me.
UP AND RUNNING:
there is going to be a bit of tweaking here so pay attention.
After everything has been put back on the car and you have inspected it to ensure proper fits. Start the car up, check for leaks around the manifold, ( just tighten down the bolts here and that will fix that issue) Check the fuel line, make sure it is not leaking. I went easy on my car for the first seven days so the ECU could learn, and it did- it retarded the timing on its own. Make sure the bolt on your Blow off valve is scewed down otherwise its a boost leak.
04-18-2007, 05:43 PM
#3
Doctor D I presume???
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THis weekend I am going to inspect everything to ensure that there there are no potential problems. I must say I love the sound now!!! I will share the sound when I get a device to record it with FTW. The blow off valve sounds like its a sequential BOV. Its sounds very smooth.
I WILL OFFER THIS TO YOU: if you decide to purchase this kit, Pm me with any questions you might have and I will do my best to walk you through the installation process. the kit cost? 2888.00 shipped to NJ from Cali and I got the kit within 5 days. I hope I have alleviated some of your apprehensions on this kit. Like I said its one of the most thourough kits Ive seen to date. I will tell you If I could do it all over again, I wouldnt change a thing. The kit was a joy to install as well as the performance it gives. I will be dyno tuning soon but I will keep you all up to date on that.
I WILL OFFER THIS TO YOU: if you decide to purchase this kit, Pm me with any questions you might have and I will do my best to walk you through the installation process. the kit cost? 2888.00 shipped to NJ from Cali and I got the kit within 5 days. I hope I have alleviated some of your apprehensions on this kit. Like I said its one of the most thourough kits Ive seen to date. I will tell you If I could do it all over again, I wouldnt change a thing. The kit was a joy to install as well as the performance it gives. I will be dyno tuning soon but I will keep you all up to date on that.
04-19-2007, 04:42 AM
#7
04-19-2007, 07:27 AM
#8
Just a quick question how are you tunning it?? Do you have a safc or are you just going to see if its running rich or lean and just richen or lean it out with a fpr?? I guess you'll be playing with the boost too according to your a/f readings. Are you running rich or lean at the moment?
04-19-2007, 08:38 AM
#10
Doctor D I presume???
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Originally Posted by babymac
Just a quick question how are you tunning it?? Do you have a safc or are you just going to see if its running rich or lean and just richen or lean it out with a fpr?? I guess you'll be playing with the boost too according to your a/f readings. Are you running rich or lean at the moment?
the computer system that came with the kit, Boost controller, turbo timer,partial safc ( for the 2 additional injectors) and a few other extras. then its adjusting fuel using the fpr, and adjjusting the wastegate. I will be dyno tuning
04-19-2007, 10:38 AM
#11
Harry @ Paradox Systems had the first kit of this style on his Max for years now. Maxmojo. Nice simple bolt on setup with 2 injectors at the TB. He didn't even have to relocate the battery. Not sure about the power potential of it though since it's only a t28 and he can't really go bigger since fitment will be an issue after that.
04-19-2007, 03:28 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
If you look at the pics you can clearly see that it comes with the pipe to connect both.
Do you have any pics showing radiator clearance?
Do you have any pics showing radiator clearance?
Top view:
Bottom view:
04-19-2007, 08:44 PM
#19
Doctor D I presume???
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
If you look at the pics you can clearly see that it comes with the pipe to connect both.
Do you have any pics showing radiator clearance?
Do you have any pics showing radiator clearance?
04-19-2007, 08:46 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm only seeing 3 ports. I'm not too sure why they would go to such a small turbo if it was truely run off of all 6 cylinders
Top view:
Bottom view:
Top view:
Bottom view:
in defense of the kit Jeff,... it has ALOT of pull especially in the higher rpm range, its really noticeable and its not even tuned yet
04-20-2007, 12:06 AM
#21
This kit is definetly looking good. I heard some people saying the turbo is too small so I emailed the about being able to use a larger turbo and this is what they said.
HI,
THERE ARE BIGGER CAPASITY TURBOS THAT CAN FIT ON THE MAXIMA ALTHOUGH THE T 28 WE SUPPLY CAN BOOST UP TO 18 LBS OF BOOST.
IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR HIGHER HORSEPOWER YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE PISTONS AND RODS.
THE MAX YOU SHOULD GO WOULD BE SAY 8 LBS OF BOOST AND AS FAR AS BIGGER CAPCITY IT CAN USE A DISCO POTATOE OR OTHER IN THAT CATAGORY. THERE IS A MODEL IN THAT HOUSING SIZE THAT HAS 450 H/P ABILITY.
JUST LET ME KNOW WHAT YU WISH TO DO?
THANKS FOR ASKING
BEST REGARDS,
DOUG ADAMS
TURBO SPECIALTIES
17906 CRUSADER AVE.
CERRITOS, CA 90703
(562) 403-7039 TEL.
(562) 403-7040 FAX
EMAIL: TURBOSPECIALTIES@AOL.COM
WEBSITE: www.turbospecialties-race.com
HI,
THERE ARE BIGGER CAPASITY TURBOS THAT CAN FIT ON THE MAXIMA ALTHOUGH THE T 28 WE SUPPLY CAN BOOST UP TO 18 LBS OF BOOST.
IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR HIGHER HORSEPOWER YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE PISTONS AND RODS.
THE MAX YOU SHOULD GO WOULD BE SAY 8 LBS OF BOOST AND AS FAR AS BIGGER CAPCITY IT CAN USE A DISCO POTATOE OR OTHER IN THAT CATAGORY. THERE IS A MODEL IN THAT HOUSING SIZE THAT HAS 450 H/P ABILITY.
JUST LET ME KNOW WHAT YU WISH TO DO?
THANKS FOR ASKING
BEST REGARDS,
DOUG ADAMS
TURBO SPECIALTIES
17906 CRUSADER AVE.
CERRITOS, CA 90703
(562) 403-7039 TEL.
(562) 403-7040 FAX
EMAIL: TURBOSPECIALTIES@AOL.COM
WEBSITE: www.turbospecialties-race.com
04-20-2007, 06:15 AM
#22
While the kit APPEARS to run only off of three cylinders, I think the closeups show both the "hot side connectors" and the "cold side connectors"...since the turbo is "hard connected" to 3 cylinders, the remaining "hot side connector" would have to be for the rear bank of cylinders.
As for boost...I'd think 10psi would be more than enough for "most" people *chuckle*.
Any idea of how much power this kit is putting to the ground.
As for boost...I'd think 10psi would be more than enough for "most" people *chuckle*.
Any idea of how much power this kit is putting to the ground.
04-20-2007, 06:55 AM
#23
Good information in this post doc. For certain individuals I think this could be a good thing.
Now this is where my intense distrust of companies like this rears it's head. Here's why...
Well that's just fantastic. "supply up to 18lbs of boost" means absolutely d!ck to anyone who knows anything about turbcharging. This is a marketing driven statement meant to make wide-eyed ricers squeal with joy, meanwhile it makes people who actually know a thing or two about turbocharging and reading compressor maps roll their eyes. Boost pressure means nothing, flow volume means everything.
Get real. I don't know what threshold he is referring to where "looking for higher horsepower" will require changing of anything internally, but it is safe to say that threshold is not achievable with the turbos they are suggesting. Pure bunk. See my next point.
Another statement that makes zero sense to anyone who knows anything about reading a compressor map. The maximum you should push would be 8lbs boost based on what? The bad information provided earlier in the email? Great - just what we need - bad information based on previous bad information.
The GT28RS "disco potato" (I hate that term) can support 450hp yes - when you run it northward of about 18psi of pressure. A 3.0L V6 running 18psi of pressure on a GT28RS - lol have fun with 500 degree charge temps while you hang out in 15% efficiency island. Try running just 8psi on a GT28RS on our motor and see how much power is produced, hah.
What the hell does "there is a model in that housing size" even mean. The wheel is what makes a turbo what it is. The GT28RS wheel is what makes it a GT28RS, the housing size has nothing to do with anything. Pure drivel.
That email is pure marketing crap and is based on one of two things. Either the guy who wrote it doesn't know the first damn thing about turbocharging, or he thinks the people he is marketing to don't have the first damn clue about turbocharging and that his fancy talk about "disco potatos" and what not is going to wow them into making decisions based on his completely asinine email.
Doc I want to make it clear that my harsh statements here are not directed at you, but at the writer of the email 97MaximaSE97 recieved.
Now this is where my intense distrust of companies like this rears it's head. Here's why...
Originally Posted by 97MaximaSE97
This kit is definetly looking good. I heard some people saying the turbo is too small so I emailed the about being able to use a larger turbo and this is what they said.
HI,
THERE ARE BIGGER CAPASITY TURBOS THAT CAN FIT ON THE MAXIMA ALTHOUGH THE T 28 WE SUPPLY CAN BOOST UP TO 18 LBS OF BOOST.
HI,
THERE ARE BIGGER CAPASITY TURBOS THAT CAN FIT ON THE MAXIMA ALTHOUGH THE T 28 WE SUPPLY CAN BOOST UP TO 18 LBS OF BOOST.
IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR HIGHER HORSEPOWER YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE THE PISTONS AND RODS.
THE MAX YOU SHOULD GO WOULD BE SAY 8 LBS OF BOOST AND AS FAR AS BIGGER CAPCITY IT CAN USE A DISCO POTATOE OR OTHER IN THAT CATAGORY.
The GT28RS "disco potato" (I hate that term) can support 450hp yes - when you run it northward of about 18psi of pressure. A 3.0L V6 running 18psi of pressure on a GT28RS - lol have fun with 500 degree charge temps while you hang out in 15% efficiency island. Try running just 8psi on a GT28RS on our motor and see how much power is produced, hah.
THERE IS A MODEL IN THAT HOUSING SIZE THAT HAS 450 H/P ABILITY.
What the hell does "there is a model in that housing size" even mean. The wheel is what makes a turbo what it is. The GT28RS wheel is what makes it a GT28RS, the housing size has nothing to do with anything. Pure drivel.
That email is pure marketing crap and is based on one of two things. Either the guy who wrote it doesn't know the first damn thing about turbocharging, or he thinks the people he is marketing to don't have the first damn clue about turbocharging and that his fancy talk about "disco potatos" and what not is going to wow them into making decisions based on his completely asinine email.
Doc I want to make it clear that my harsh statements here are not directed at you, but at the writer of the email 97MaximaSE97 recieved.
04-20-2007, 08:07 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Just had a thought - a 2871r, 2876r, or 3071r with the T25 style inlet flange might be a viable option for those wanting to use this kit to put out bigger power numbers.
Sweet thanks
04-20-2007, 10:30 AM
#27
IMHO It APPEARS to run off 3 cylinders because I only see THREE holes feeding the turbo. I only ask where the FOURTH hole for the rear x-over tube attachs to. I too see what appears to be a rear x-over tube. But where does it attach to? I has to attach to the front manifold somewhere so it can feed the turbo. Where?????
Originally Posted by gb21914
While the kit APPEARS to run only off of three cylinders, I think the closeups show both the "hot side connectors" and the "cold side connectors"...since the turbo is "hard connected" to 3 cylinders, the remaining "hot side connector" would have to be for the rear bank of cylinders.
As for boost...I'd think 10psi would be more than enough for "most" people *chuckle*.
Any idea of how much power this kit is putting to the ground.
As for boost...I'd think 10psi would be more than enough for "most" people *chuckle*.
Any idea of how much power this kit is putting to the ground.
04-20-2007, 01:23 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Good information in this post doc. For certain individuals I think this could be a good thing.
Now this is where my intense distrust of companies like this rears it's head. Here's why...
Well that's just fantastic. "supply up to 18lbs of boost" means absolutely d!ck to anyone who knows anything about turbcharging. This is a marketing driven statement meant to make wide-eyed ricers squeal with joy, meanwhile it makes people who actually know a thing or two about turbocharging and reading compressor maps roll their eyes. Boost pressure means nothing, flow volume means everything.
Get real. I don't know what threshold he is referring to where "looking for higher horsepower" will require changing of anything internally, but it is safe to say that threshold is not achievable with the turbos they are suggesting. Pure bunk. See my next point.
Another statement that makes zero sense to anyone who knows anything about reading a compressor map. The maximum you should push would be 8lbs boost based on what? The bad information provided earlier in the email? Great - just what we need - bad information based on previous bad information.
The GT28RS "disco potato" (I hate that term) can support 450hp yes - when you run it northward of about 18psi of pressure. A 3.0L V6 running 18psi of pressure on a GT28RS - lol have fun with 500 degree charge temps while you hang out in 15% efficiency island. Try running just 8psi on a GT28RS on our motor and see how much power is produced, hah.
What the hell does "there is a model in that housing size" even mean. The wheel is what makes a turbo what it is. The GT28RS wheel is what makes it a GT28RS, the housing size has nothing to do with anything. Pure drivel.
That email is pure marketing crap and is based on one of two things. Either the guy who wrote it doesn't know the first damn thing about turbocharging, or he thinks the people he is marketing to don't have the first damn clue about turbocharging and that his fancy talk about "disco potatos" and what not is going to wow them into making decisions based on his completely asinine email.
Doc I want to make it clear that my harsh statements here are not directed at you, but at the writer of the email 97MaximaSE97 recieved.
Now this is where my intense distrust of companies like this rears it's head. Here's why...
Well that's just fantastic. "supply up to 18lbs of boost" means absolutely d!ck to anyone who knows anything about turbcharging. This is a marketing driven statement meant to make wide-eyed ricers squeal with joy, meanwhile it makes people who actually know a thing or two about turbocharging and reading compressor maps roll their eyes. Boost pressure means nothing, flow volume means everything.
Get real. I don't know what threshold he is referring to where "looking for higher horsepower" will require changing of anything internally, but it is safe to say that threshold is not achievable with the turbos they are suggesting. Pure bunk. See my next point.
Another statement that makes zero sense to anyone who knows anything about reading a compressor map. The maximum you should push would be 8lbs boost based on what? The bad information provided earlier in the email? Great - just what we need - bad information based on previous bad information.
The GT28RS "disco potato" (I hate that term) can support 450hp yes - when you run it northward of about 18psi of pressure. A 3.0L V6 running 18psi of pressure on a GT28RS - lol have fun with 500 degree charge temps while you hang out in 15% efficiency island. Try running just 8psi on a GT28RS on our motor and see how much power is produced, hah.
What the hell does "there is a model in that housing size" even mean. The wheel is what makes a turbo what it is. The GT28RS wheel is what makes it a GT28RS, the housing size has nothing to do with anything. Pure drivel.
That email is pure marketing crap and is based on one of two things. Either the guy who wrote it doesn't know the first damn thing about turbocharging, or he thinks the people he is marketing to don't have the first damn clue about turbocharging and that his fancy talk about "disco potatos" and what not is going to wow them into making decisions based on his completely asinine email.
Doc I want to make it clear that my harsh statements here are not directed at you, but at the writer of the email 97MaximaSE97 recieved.
04-20-2007, 02:43 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
IMHO It APPEARS to run off 3 cylinders because I only see THREE holes feeding the turbo. I only ask where the FOURTH hole for the rear x-over tube attachs to. I too see what appears to be a rear x-over tube. But where does it attach to? I has to attach to the front manifold somewhere so it can feed the turbo. Where?????
The pic of the turbo in the box clearly shows both the intake stage, the compressor stage, the exhaust stage...and the "dump pipe" to the exhaust...
There would have to be either a link from the rear bank of cylinders to the front on the exhaust manifold, or a y pipe going into the turbo on the exhaust stage.
Doc, can you confirm the setup of the turbo to us? Is it driven by one bank of cylinders? Or are we missing something?
04-20-2007, 06:57 PM
#30
Doctor D I presume???
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
IMHO It APPEARS to run off 3 cylinders because I only see THREE holes feeding the turbo. I only ask where the FOURTH hole for the rear x-over tube attachs to. I too see what appears to be a rear x-over tube. But where does it attach to? I has to attach to the front manifold somewhere so it can feed the turbo. Where?????
97Maxima, I kinda figured it wasnt directed towards me LOL, but youre right it does sound strange. In defense of the email IMO there is enough room to run what Nealoc187 stated "a 2871r, 2876r, or 3071r with the T25 style inlet flange might be a viable option for those wanting to use this kit to put out bigger power numbers." im running a 60 a.r. intake, It is the correct flange on the manifold.
04-21-2007, 07:40 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by 02altimaSEny
What do you guys think fitting this kit on a VQ35?
The kit is said to fit on the VQ35 as well, its listed on the instructions, But I leave that to your discretion.
04-21-2007, 07:41 AM
#35
Doctor D I presume???
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Originally Posted by MDeezy
manifolds would fit. clearance would be the main issue I could think of, as that problem would be present any time boosting an NA car.
You are correct MDeezy. following my first 3 posts regarding this kit, you wont have any clearance issues, You can be assured of that. Like I stated earlier, If any of you get this kit, PM me with any problems or questions and I will walk you through it.
04-21-2007, 08:20 AM
#37
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
If you don't mind, can you get a daytime pic showing how low the turbo sits and how far it is from the radiator fans?
04-21-2007, 04:16 PM
#39
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 88
I Know my nissan altima vq35de would require some modifications to the piping but I bet not much. What is the website you bought this kit off? Also your car has a fuel return line correct? I am wondering if the tuned piggyback of whatever they sent you with the kit would work with the altima as long as I would grab both the maxima you have ECU diagram and my Altima ecu diagram.
04-21-2007, 04:26 PM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 88
Oh and I was wondering if you have pics of the turbokit when you received it like out of box pictures. That would be look I am really looking forward to seeing this maybe finally I have a cheaper solution to turbocharge my altima in the future.