secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

meh.....bottom end should hold as long as you dont bounce it off the limiter like a moron

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

A slightly thicker head gasket could always bump compression down a bit so its more boost friendly.

nothing wrong with the rods and pistons in our engines they hold up just fine. Unless you plan to do 9000 rpms and 500 hp

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Are there even thicker head gasket options for our cars? I know that because of the timing chain setup we can't really alter the deck/head height too much lest you run into fitment and/or cam timing issues. Per the FSM, you can only go a maximum of +/-.007" before being out of spec; that isn't much room to play with at all.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

No one has really tested it on our engines, but you can get a custom gasket made (send them OEM ones and the specs you want). From what your saying your probably right, but then again we do have a small bit of play with the timing chain. This would be nice if a piggyback could be programed to alter the timing just right by just telling it what was added in thickness to the gasket.

If someone had the time and money to play with it I'm sure that it could be done.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Or you could just get DE-T pistons.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I have been trying to get Vq30De-t rods and pistons. I even called Jwt and they said that they came across a set and sold them but have no plans on selling Vq30det rods and pistons. So where can I get them? I tried to get the short block but had no luck. Some guys out here in NY swapped the entire Vq30det in to a 4th gen. But I don't know how the obtained that motor.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

This is info I found:
Vq30de
The 3.0 L (2987 cc) VQ30DE has a bore and stroke of 93 mm and 73.3 mm respectively with a compression ratio of 10.0:1. It produces 193 PS (190 hp/142 kW) to 230 PS (227 hp/169 kW) @6400 RPM and 205 to 217 ft·lbf (278 to 294 N·m) @4400 RPM. The VQ30DE was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines list from 1995 through 2001. It is an aluminum open deck block design with microfinished internals and a relatively light weight.
An improved version of the VQ30DE is known by the designation VQ30DE-K. The K designation stood for the Japanese word kaizen which translates to "improvement". The engine was used from 2000-2001 Nissan Maxima and adds a true dual-runner intake manifold for better high-end performance compared to some earlier Japanese and Middle-East market versions of this engine. The VQ30DEK produces 226 PS (223 hp/166 kW). The 1995-1999 US spec VQ30DE was equipped with only a single runner intake manifold

Vq30det
The 3.0 L (2987 cc) VQ30DET is a turbocharged version of the VQ30DE. Bore and stroke are the same at 93 mm and 73.3 mm respectively, and it has a compression ratio of 9.0:1. It produces 270 PS (266 hp/199 kW) and 271 ft·lbf (367 N·m). From 1998 onwards, it produces 280 PS (276 hp/206 kW) @6000 RPM and 285 ft·lbf (386 N·m) @3600 RPM.

http://vondrachek.org/automotive/datsuns/vq_project/

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/news.php?readmore=192

nismology

iTrader: (8)

To use DE-T rods you'd need to use a DE-T crankshaft since the rod pins are larger. The pistons are a direct-fit onto DE rods.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Where can I get the Det internals? Mynismo sells the crank for $450 but no rods or pistons.

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

Strange enough I posted about this exact topic just before this thread turned on to the DET topic.. no replys in mine tho :|

I'm actually just in the process of sourcing them, trust me, it isn't easy. DaveB is even having a hard time.

I think this has answered most of my questions however I'd be interested to find out the source of your information on the DET parts. Does anyone know where to find an FSM or other related material on this subject?

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I just responded to your thread. I found a company that imports the Vq30det in the Usa. It's located in New Jersey and I will contact them tomorrow.

Look at the links in post #47

bkmaxima

There is a place callen ROYAL JAPAN . they are a importer of jdm motors .. They are located in shea stadium .. They have two in stock .. This is the place i bought mine when i did my swap

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I will check them out tomorrow. So you had a Vq30det swapped into a 4th gen?

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

^^ bk is the guy in your second link.

bkmaxima

yea that's me

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

I just called them, they don't have any and he said that they haven't for some time. The guy recalls selling one last year, I would imagine to bk.. He said lots of ppl ask about it, I'm thinkin' "....soooo why don't you get some?"

oh well.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I have one but I'm not parting with it.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

I decided to go with Rev-up cams instead, just felt like going with something more agressive than the pathfinder cams.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

FYI

just called Royal Japan and they have a VQ30DE-T for $1500 in stock, spoke to a guy named Syeed


here's their info

12645 Willets Point Blvd
Flushing, NY 11368
(718) 779-8729

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

This place?
http://www.royaljapanimports.com/index.php

This is the one that I called this morning and they said no.. how strange!

Now if only there was more technical data available on this motor so I could do a little more research.

Does anyone know anything about the heads used on the DET?

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

^ thats strange.....he told me he had it but its not shown on their site

bkmaxima

They do have one i was there the other day picking up some parts.. And me and him were talking how my swap worked out i told him good and then he showed me two vq30det that he had if i wanted them .. I told him no i was there for something a lil diff but better ..lol

Anyway u got to either call or more affective go there to get info

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I got the same answer..

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

You can also get custom boost regrinds from webber cams. Give them a call. I remember them telling me $600 for the regrinds and you have to send your cams in... I think...

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Bkmaxima, What happened with the Vq30det swap?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Go with the ARP studs dude! Studs are stronger and more reliable than bolts of the same size! You're doing the right thing....

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

just picked up the ARP head stud and bolt set........

so cams down
ARP head stud and bolts down

gotta still get the rest of stuff, oh and the actual motor

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Where did you pick up the stud and bolt kit?

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

good choice....its worth getting a slightly agreessive cam, otherwise you might regret it down the road, its not the easiest thing in the world to swap cams but it can be done in a weekend

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Standard ARP head studs have not been proven to be any stronger or more reliable than OEM -DE bolts, let alone HR's. In fact, there's been evidence that says the opposite. L19's are another story.



There's alot more to how reliable a fastener will be than whether or not it's a stud or bolt. Stud doesn't automatically = better categorically. That's marketing for you...

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

You should start a thread on bolts and studs. Seriously..

My boy Cmax is running 12Psi plus 100 shot of N2o in his Maxima and those Arp's are holding up.. At one point he was running a 100 shot and 14 Psi. Now you see why secondtonone and I will be using Arp. But I feel your point and you should start a Thread on that subject to show other options...

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I don't mind people disagreeing with me. I mind when people say categorically X is better than Y in every situation w/out providing any real argument.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I have not been able to find the tensile strength on the Hr bolts. DO you have the specs?

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

I got the bolts form Mike, nwell.......he bought them to build his 3.5 but bought a motor already built instead


Im sure nismology is right about what he's saying but I know a couple cars using the ARP stuff with sucess so I figured "it worked for them so it should work for me too"............

nismology

iTrader: (8)

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf

Note the tightening sequence.


Not even going by that though, if you have two fasteners with identical clamping force, the torque-to-yield bolt will prove to be better long term because you know the preload will be damn near identical between the 4 bolts around a cylinder. Less bore distorsion is always good.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I have no problem with that at all.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

got my revup cams in yesterday, those lobes are sharp......I got a steal on those

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Everyone entitled too their own opinion, but the facts are there....head bolts put more wear and tear on your engine block, as well additional forces placed on a headbolt (torsional, tensional and shear) while a stud can actually be hand tightened into the block and then have the nuts installed placing minimum torsional force if any, but mostly tensional force therefore 100%+ more reliable than a head bolt of the equivalent size and thread pitch. If bolts were more reliable we would never stud most aeronautical equipment and components in Aviation! Safety and reliability is #1 not mass production....
If you're into building and tearing down your engine such as road racing, drag racing, etc. Studs again outshine those bolts can all that disassembly and assembly will simply weaken the threads in the block or on the bolt.....

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I was hoping you wouldn't mistake my stance for ignorance of the theory behind studs. Theory is nice, but what happens in each individual situation in the real world is better. I will make two points:


1. Factory head bolts are designed to stretch and/or twist. This stretching doesn't compromise the bolts' reliability. In fact, this characteristic is the catalyst by which it does it's job. As such, they provide one distinct and irrefutable advantage over any non-TTY fastener; absolute preload consistency. When you torque down an ARP stud, you are not measuring preload; you are simply measuring friction between the threads, which can vary based on a number of factors. When you use angle tightening on a TTY bolt, you can rest assured that the preload through the yield zone will remain consistent. Even tightening around the bore promotes a greater level of concentricity, especially on open-deck blocks.

2. Standard ARP's have not been proven to be any more reliable than OEM in a (specifically) VQ3x application, boosted or otherwise. I am careful not to throw these into the same category as L19's which due to their sheer tensile strength, might prove to be more reliable. In any case, simply using stronger fasteners to fix "head lift" is like putting lipstick on a pig, but that's another story.

SHIFT_maxboost

iTrader: (13)

so what should i do for 350whp or there abouts?