Vids of mastercater's S/C VQ35
01-16-2009, 01:46 AM
#81
01-16-2009, 03:04 AM
#82
Well I know Ian had some belt slip issues with the gatorback and I apparently do also. There are no leaks I can find and the bov stays shut until I let off the throttle. Could the V2 need a rebuild? I am still a little new to F/I, this is my first boosted car.
01-16-2009, 03:55 AM
#84
nice, car looks very sleeperish
get the gates belt, I ran a gatorback and always had problems with it jumping over a pib and then jumping back and switched to gates and no more problems.
Get a meth kit on there.
get the gates belt, I ran a gatorback and always had problems with it jumping over a pib and then jumping back and switched to gates and no more problems.
Get a meth kit on there.
01-16-2009, 07:49 AM
#85
Im thinking you have to have a boost leak somewhere. What are your vac readings at idle?
01-16-2009, 07:53 AM
#86
When you inspect the belt can you see that its offset a little indicating its jumping? Ive never had issues with my gatorback, but belts arent too expensive if you dont mind removing the blower wouldnt hurt to swap it out and see. Worst case scenerio you will have an extra belt.
01-16-2009, 08:13 AM
#87
So I just went out and took it for a spin. I am only making 10psi and thats around 5000-5500 rpms and it never goes above. The belt is really tight and I am afraid to tighten it any more than it already is. During the drive I found a new Saleen S281 Supercharged and we had some fun. He won but never put distance between us, his rear bumper was at my door. I had a 10.5 a/f in 2nd gear and a 9.5 in 3rd. Whats up with only hitting 10 psi with a 1 month old gatorback and a 2.87 pulley!?!? Should I get one from gates?
Make sure you have NO boost leaks, thats my guess. Check your gauge connections, all the charge pipe couplers, and and IM leaks. The elbow coming off the blower outlet is a usual suspect.
I hit 10psi on a 3.125" pulley on a v2 bolted up to my 3.5
Spinning tires at 90+ is exciting eh?
What's your fuel setup? If you're hitting a 9.5 af in third you gotta have some large injectors and a FMU...correct?
01-16-2009, 08:31 AM
#88
Hmmmm...maybe the BOV isn't adjusted right? I remember dinking around with that thing one time to see if I could do something about the surge. It didn't seem to change anything.
01-16-2009, 10:20 AM
#90
Thanks,
Zack
01-16-2009, 11:42 AM
#91
Did you just run a normal gates? I was just going to get one of these two: Gates Belts I am confident it is belt related because you can feel the belt slipping and grabbing and the boost gauge goes up and down about half of 1 psi everytime. My vacuum readings are the normal 17-19 at idle. I am not running an FMU, but I have 600cc deatchwerks injectors and their flow charts say they are 623cc each. All the couplers are on, tight, and no leaks. I am going to try and find a gates belt today and hopefully that should clear things up. I am also going to mess with the BOV. If anyone has any other thoughts please post em up. Ill update later with some progress.
Thanks,
Zack
Thanks,
Zack
Do the belt, and dont mess with the BOV just yet. One thing at a time. Hopefully the belt swap fixes your problems.
01-27-2009, 03:26 AM
#95
So I got my new JWT chip in and the car runs great, but slightly on the lean side (12.0-12.9) So I think I may just turn up my fuel pressure. Anyways I changed my belt also and I still have some belt slip problems. Here is a video, if you see my boost gauge on the right goes straight to ten, and then down to 5. I am running out of ideas on how to fix this slip issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZPCC7Tjm7A
Zack
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZPCC7Tjm7A
Zack
Last edited by mastercater7; 01-27-2009 at 03:32 AM.
03-21-2009, 06:20 PM
#96
Update, well sort of... Yesterday I pulled the blower and bracket off and I cleaned everything. All the pulleys, blower, bracket, and the whole side of the motor where the pulleys are to get the oil gunk and belt dust off. Luckily the tap I bought wasn't to big (for the timing case) and I was able to tap all the stripped holes in it. I replaced the bolts with bigger bolts to fit the new hole size and that is all good now. I then put a 68.0" gates belt on the car. As some of you may know, it is a very small belt and was very difficult to get on. Being the 5th belt I have installed since October, I wanted to be sure it wouldn't slip. However, I was wrong. The first test drive I made 9 psi around 5k rpms and it stayed at 9 psi until I shifted at 6500. I went back home and tightened it more and then I only made 4 psi with occasional spikes to 7 psi. I then tightened it yet again and only made 4 psi. I do not think I can tighten the belt anymore and there is no oil leak. I have been contemplating buying the Reichard Racing 2.70" Anti Slip Pulley but I don't want the extra boost. I have thought the blower needs a rebuild, but the boost spikes make me think otherwise. I have had this setup for almost 6 months and I have never made over 9 psi and I am getting tired of dealing with the same problem over and over again. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Someone please help me out here, I am running out of ideas.
Thanks,
Zack
Thanks,
Zack
03-21-2009, 09:22 PM
#97
Zack
sucks that you are still having these issue. I don't have any ideas which could lead you to a solution. Is it possible that your bracket might be cracked and thus flexing under stress? or maybe a bolt that stripped itself or something? I grew tired of my maxima troubles and i moved on to another vehicle. i wish you luck.
-Will
sucks that you are still having these issue. I don't have any ideas which could lead you to a solution. Is it possible that your bracket might be cracked and thus flexing under stress? or maybe a bolt that stripped itself or something? I grew tired of my maxima troubles and i moved on to another vehicle. i wish you luck.
-Will
03-22-2009, 03:48 PM
#99
Zack, Before you waste your money on a rebuild, there are some other things you should check first.
A: Do you still have ANY leaks?
B: Clean all of your pulleys themselves, if there is any oil residue on them, that could be causing problems.
C: Can you feel a power difference? Are you sure your boost gauge is reading correctly?
D: When do you start having problems? Is it after you have been driving for a while? You said you boosted once to 9 psi, then it went down after that. Is your vacuum reading changing at all during this? I'm at -23 at idle, you should be around the same. If you have more problems when the car is warmer, that could point to a leak somewhere.
E: Have you tried disconnecting your BOV to see if it makes any difference?
F: Are you sure you don't have any boost leaks?
Blower rebuild should be the last thing you do, unless there is obvious noise or oil going down your intake. Be careful with tightening that belt too much, you can put too much axial load on the blower and cause the bearings to fail prematurely.
A: Do you still have ANY leaks?
B: Clean all of your pulleys themselves, if there is any oil residue on them, that could be causing problems.
C: Can you feel a power difference? Are you sure your boost gauge is reading correctly?
D: When do you start having problems? Is it after you have been driving for a while? You said you boosted once to 9 psi, then it went down after that. Is your vacuum reading changing at all during this? I'm at -23 at idle, you should be around the same. If you have more problems when the car is warmer, that could point to a leak somewhere.
E: Have you tried disconnecting your BOV to see if it makes any difference?
F: Are you sure you don't have any boost leaks?
Blower rebuild should be the last thing you do, unless there is obvious noise or oil going down your intake. Be careful with tightening that belt too much, you can put too much axial load on the blower and cause the bearings to fail prematurely.
03-24-2009, 04:24 PM
#100
Zack, Before you waste your money on a rebuild, there are some other things you should check first.
A: Do you still have ANY leaks?
B: Clean all of your pulleys themselves, if there is any oil residue on them, that could be causing problems.
C: Can you feel a power difference? Are you sure your boost gauge is reading correctly?
D: When do you start having problems? Is it after you have been driving for a while? You said you boosted once to 9 psi, then it went down after that. Is your vacuum reading changing at all during this? I'm at -23 at idle, you should be around the same. If you have more problems when the car is warmer, that could point to a leak somewhere.
E: Have you tried disconnecting your BOV to see if it makes any difference?
F: Are you sure you don't have any boost leaks?
Blower rebuild should be the last thing you do, unless there is obvious noise or oil going down your intake. Be careful with tightening that belt too much, you can put too much axial load on the blower and cause the bearings to fail prematurely.
A: Do you still have ANY leaks?
B: Clean all of your pulleys themselves, if there is any oil residue on them, that could be causing problems.
C: Can you feel a power difference? Are you sure your boost gauge is reading correctly?
D: When do you start having problems? Is it after you have been driving for a while? You said you boosted once to 9 psi, then it went down after that. Is your vacuum reading changing at all during this? I'm at -23 at idle, you should be around the same. If you have more problems when the car is warmer, that could point to a leak somewhere.
E: Have you tried disconnecting your BOV to see if it makes any difference?
F: Are you sure you don't have any boost leaks?
Blower rebuild should be the last thing you do, unless there is obvious noise or oil going down your intake. Be careful with tightening that belt too much, you can put too much axial load on the blower and cause the bearings to fail prematurely.
B: There is no residue on any of the pulleys
C: I can definitely tell a difference and I am positive the gauge is working properly. The best way to tell is traction.
D: Basically I hit 9 psi on the first WOT pull, then everytime after that its been 3-4 psi after attempting to tighten it; which is what it does everytime after I work on it. It doesn't matter how long I have been driving the car. My vaccuum reading is -15hg at idle which I am assuming could be the problem. When I left off the gas in gear to slow down the gauge reads -20hg.
E: I have not tried disconnecting the BOV, wouldn't this be bad for the blower if I full throttled it with no BOV?
F: I am pretty sure there are no leaks but I could be wrong.
I have started thinking about doing the rebuild since the blower is 5 years old and the hks ssq bov has been on there the entire time which most likely has done some damage....
Thanks,
Zack
03-24-2009, 05:58 PM
#101
To clarify, I wouldn't recommend driving with the BOV line disconnected and plugged long term, just to go out and do a couple of WOT runs to see if it makes any difference. A leaking BOV could cause your issues, especially if it's not closing all the way under boost. They have a diaphram inside that can tear.
-15 vacuum at idle is out of spec I believe, that could be pointing to a vacuum leak somewhere.
-15 vacuum at idle is out of spec I believe, that could be pointing to a vacuum leak somewhere.
03-27-2009, 03:29 AM
#102
I drove the car today after it sat for a day or two. I went through boost after it warmed up and hit 8 psi at half throttle. I went full and hit 9 again, but it was the same as before. Then, I got to the post office and it idled for a few minutes, got back on the road and only made 4 psi. 4 psi was the most I could make for the rest of the day. Any thoughts? Nozama mentioned putting a little bit of brake fluid on the belt to help it grip and I am going to try that as soon as the weather permits.
04-30-2009, 09:06 PM
#103
After my discovery the other day, I figured it was time for an update. As some of you know, I used to have an EMU which I blamed for most of my tuning problems, but mainly for my bad A/F ratio. Turns out, it was never the emu messing with my fuel; it was my adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am almost 100% sure atleast. Last week my A/F ratio made its way to a wonderful 10.5 at WOT. I popped the hood and checked the fuel pressure and it was steady at 43.5 (what Jim Wolf recommends for the ecu) so I dropped it to 35 psi. Then I drove it around and got a nice 9.5 at WOT. This makes no sense, I drop my fuel pressure by almost 10 psi and the A/F goes richer!?!?!? I popped the hood again and the pressure hadn't changed from 35 so I dropped it to 25 psi, drove it, and had a 9.5 A/F ratio again. It has to be a faulty regulator, which means the EMU wasn't bad. The A/F ratio issues I am having now are IDENTICAL to the problems I was having when I was running the EMU. So whoever got me banned from my350z, thank you, because I diagnosed wrong and basically got banned for no reason. If possible, I would really like that banned lifted as I am about to start a VQ Datsun project. Also, the guy that bought the EMU has had ZERO problems. Anyways, I am going to buy sleepermaxima's barely used 2.87 pulley and that should, I hope, solve the belt slip issues. When I tried using Nozama's idea with the brake fluid (see above post) I got 9 psi for about a second before dropping to 4. What makes me confident with the new pulley is that everytime I went WOT for 2 weeks after putting the brake fluid on the belt, I hit 9 psi for about a second before the drop to 4. Sometimes the car will make 10-12 psi, but very rarely. If this pulley works, it's redyno time...
Thanks,
Zack
Thanks,
Zack
Last edited by mastercater7; 04-30-2009 at 09:10 PM.
05-01-2009, 01:13 PM
#104
Nice,.. in for the numbers and more progress. VQ Datsun huh? P.M me the details. I figured out some issues the other day on my car related to fuel pressure as well, my fuel pressure was too low. Keep your boost at 4 psi so I have a chance against you..LOL, just kiddin.
05-01-2009, 10:06 PM
#105
Thats was me. If you can assure me that the unit was not bad i will deff have the ban lifted. Shoot me a pm and we will get that worked out. No hard feelings. I was going off what you said.
05-04-2009, 09:13 AM
#107
Nice,.. in for the numbers and more progress. VQ Datsun huh? P.M me the details. I figured out some issues the other day on my car related to fuel pressure as well, my fuel pressure was too low. Keep your boost at 4 psi so I have a chance against you..LOL, just kiddin.
, he is a moron and this happened over a year ago and I just found out. When I undid the tap and ran the gauge wire to a different location, EVERYTHING ran much much better. A/F is steady at 11.9, no stuttering, and the fuel pressure is right where it needs to be. My buddy also tapped the EMU off of the ECU power supply. Basically, there were 3 items running off of one wire. This would definitely explain why the tune was intermittent. I now wish I hadn't even sold the EMU, now that I know it was just one wire. Moral of the story: Even if you think your friends are good with cars or electrical, watch what they are doing or just do everything yourself. There are now only a handfull of people I can trust without watching their every move. It's amazing how much more power was brought out in the car from just the one wire. I am guessing the ECU was having trouble keeping the tune with the low electricity, just as the EMU was when it was installed. The only reason I am not too mad the EMU is gone is the fact I sold it for $500; which is $200 more than I paid for it. 
Anyways, the new (well, barely used) 2.87 pulley will arrive today. I will install it someday this week. As long as the car makes full boost, I will get it dynoed in a week or two and I plan on making a trip to the track as well. I am gettting really worried about my transmission. After fixing the above problems, I took the car out and did a few runs. The input shaft was making some TERRIBLE noises after the runs . I would shut the car off for a minute or two, and the noises would be gone. I knew the tranny would eventually blow so I have always had a spare just in case. If it doesn't blow on me before I go to the track, I will just need to bring my spare transmission to the track with me. That way I can change it there if it blows. Even though the transmission is about to go, it is a good thing because that means the car is doing what it is supposed to do now and hopefully most of the tuning will be fuel pressure only from here on out. But, the car is RIDICULOUS right now. If you don't have your head on the headrest, the car will break your neck when I go WOT. So, everyone bust out the 
because what has been long awaited is finally about to arrive.Thanks,
Zack
Last edited by mastercater7; 05-04-2009 at 09:15 AM.
05-04-2009, 04:52 PM
#109
05-04-2009, 08:20 PM
#110
When can we meet up so I can get a ride in that beast?
If you need help with the tranny or isb, let me know. I've done isb's many times even with the bell housing still bolted to the block.
If you need help with the tranny or isb, let me know. I've done isb's many times even with the bell housing still bolted to the block.
05-04-2009, 09:37 PM
#112
05-05-2009, 10:50 AM
#113
How far is Browns Point from Bothell? If you want to lend a hand with the new pulley, I could possibly let you ride in it lol. PM me and we can figure it out. Post here after you pm me so I know you did. The replacement pulley arrived yesterday. It is in MUCH better shape than the one I have been running.
Zack
Zack
Last edited by mastercater7; 05-05-2009 at 10:55 AM.
05-05-2009, 12:06 PM
#114
How far is Browns Point from Bothell? If you want to lend a hand with the new pulley, I could possibly let you ride in it lol. PM me and we can figure it out. Post here after you pm me so I know you did. The replacement pulley arrived yesterday. It is in MUCH better shape than the one I have been running.
Zack
Zack
05-05-2009, 11:56 PM
#120
It will be kind of like Mr. Honda guy to the left