for the SW people, those tires are brand new.

 

LMAO...

 

That turbo sends chills down my spine. A RMT 3.5 turbo - is this another first?

 

nah, we did eddy's (95blkmax) first, but it is the first 3.5 rmt AUTO!!

 

you just can't leave well enough alone.

 

Oh yeah, that's right. "How soon we forget". Did either of you ever make it to a drag strip?? I was thinking you did...

Automatics rule ! but I'm going to replace mine after beating up on it for three years - a nice low-mileage AE tranny is next. Axles worry me, but only the Driveshaft Shop builds hi-horsepower axles for the Maxima, and they aren't cheap!

 

Here is a new video clip, so ya'll can hear what the beat sounds like
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvHEnoLoWSg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx6eNibwthc

This is only at 4psi, so that turbo is not even putting out much at this level. once that sucker gets higher in boost, oh man.

(btw, this street has not traffic in it, its a dead end at the other at one end)

 

VQ35, boost, auto, rear slicks.....

I've seen you slowly rising to give justice to your maxima.org username....

Can wait to see it on the dyno and the strip.

 

HOTTNESS

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqUeQ...eature=channel

I found this in car video too. It Sounds sick streetz! Who was homer simpson at the end of the video?

 

Essential thats eddy lol 96blkmax, funny dude.

meximax, i only wish the "rear slicks" was true, would be nice but we gotta accept what we have lol, so till then FWD FTW lol
im trying to come up n catch up to you guys. soon!

btw UPDATE:

My 24" resonator was making noises, i was worried something from its insides might break off and fly into the turbo, soooo i took it off, put a straight pipe in its place, then wrapped it, and only one comment about that I SHOULD HAVE DONE THAT YEARS AGO!!!.
I am not exaggerating, Now I am getting boost at about 500rpm sooner or maybe even earlier than that!!, boost is coming in so much stronger and alot more responsive! You can even hear it spooling up resonating against houses around me while im cruising with barely any load.

I have a question, how bad is it for the engine to hit the rev limiter under boost, not to stay up there, just a quick tap on the limiter then shift? Reason I ask is because since 1st gear is getting so much power now, im spinning and its revving to quick for the auto to shift so it taps the limiter then shifts. Is this bad? something to worry about? or should i make the shift point a little sooner?

 

I have my Shift_Fast set to shift at 6300 and nitrous-cut happens as soon as the shift occurs (at 175-shot on the 3.5) with a nitrous window switch set to 6500 as a fail-safe. RPMs drop to 5000 at the shift. I experimented with this a lot last season, and found there is always a little delay in the transmission. THis combination works rather well - under full spray the charted RPMs just touch fuel-cut when shifts occur, but you don't hear any engine sputter.

For what it's worth...

 

Problem with that is that I dont have that much control over the boost, like you turning off the nitrous with a switch. So my solution would be to lower the shiftpoint so the transmission begings to shift earlier and prevent it from touching the limiter. My main concern is that, if hitting the limiter while in boost is something thats very dangerous or it can happen as long as u dont stay on the limiter bouncing?

 

AHhahahAh that was funny ( WOO HOoOoo )


Anyways I notice the Sflorida boiz are slowly posting on this thread !

let me know if you ever up this way Streetz !

 

Hitting the limiter by itself doesn't seem to hurt anything - I've screwed up and had the throttle wide open in a lower gear and the engine just kept bouncing off the limiter - sometimes I do that just for fun in the driveway - I think I read in the FSM that there is a 200 RPM drop required between the cut and when the engine can run again. If you have plain old turbo boost, you're just blowing air through the motor when you hit fuel cut - nothing to burn or explode there... I don't see how you can hurt anything ???

I do think that if you set your shifts to 6300, the tranny will get around to actually shifting around 6500. Once you start making even more HP, everything happens faster - but the tranny still takes the same amount of time to shift, so you need to anticipate the shift.

 

Bouncing off the limiter makes the car go very lean so...

 

At fuel-cut there is not enough fuel being injected for the cylinders to fire, so why would this be very lean? The motor is just pumping air at that point - and the smallest amount of fuel still coming from the injectors. Nothing burns, nothing stays inside.

 

True but I figured since the car is running 1.2ms of fuel it might run lean. But if it is not enough to spark then no biggie at all I assume

 

I thought so too

But this does make sense.

 

UPDATE:
I just modified the 3.5 throttle body to take the cable and tps, basically copied tavarish' writeup. It works perfect! and the tps is solid! I cut up a piece of aluminum sheet i had left over from my hurricane shutters. here are the pics:

 

Looks like mine man lol.

 

U guys liked my w00h00!

Bouncing off the rev limiter wont damage anything as long as you dont leave it there for long periods of time. Consider people at the track when they launch ubber slicks. They're usually bouncing off a rev-limiter OR a 2-step (which is essentially a selectable fuel-cut/ rev-limit).

Im not sure if I ever showed it to you while I was still boosted but a few times messing around in the street I launched from bouncing off redline. That is how I was about to launch off the line with boost (you with your slush box just have to torque-break it LOL). So if I did it to build up my boost for a few seconds, it will definitely not cause you any trouble by just hitting it before a shift.

As long as you dont do it for long time periods it will be just fine

 

very nice. Congratz, can't wait to see some number's and track times

 

Thanx, todays update is:
I just installed the NWP spacer kit, car feels like its got a lil more torque, and of course you can feel the manifold cooler to the touch. 4psi, and im spinning almost entire 1st gear, it catches for a second in mid rage then boost comes in and spins out again, and if i roll into WOT it still spins on top of 1st, then 2nd comes in n also spins a lil bit at beging of 2nd and wheel just wants to fly out of my hands in 2nd. car feels pretty quick, i cant imagine what 7psi is going to be like when i put in a new coupler.

You guys think I should hook up the methanol once i get into 7psi? just to be running it even safer. I really wanna treat this motor right, my tune is at mid 10's a/f.

 

A/F is mid-10s ? That's what mine did N/A at first - too rich for maximum power - I tuned-MAF-with-tape and got the A/F up to 12:1, then set the nitrous stages to also run at 12:1. This seemed to work well for me.

Betcha if you sprayed a 35-shot (just like you did when you started with the 3.0) your turbo will hit boost earlier and run cooler. Just a thought... This one is gonna be a monster...

 

Well I still dont know which is the best form of cooling, iv been told spraying a very small shot of nitrous cools down alot, but im also used to using the meth/water as a form of cooling and reduce pinging. I have yet to find a good article or source where it mentions nitrous to be better for cooling than injecting alcohol or meth. Im still a fan of nitrous, but if i already have the meth injection hookd up. why not use it.

 

I ask Rob to text and see how your ride is felt...hopefully its to your liking.

Car is sick !

 

UPDATE.

the fun is over, the motor threw a rod. I have been hearing this light tapping sound, that i figured was normal, i got worried about it for a lil but didnt give it too much importance. I heard the same tapping sound the very 1st start up, i added more oil it was a lil low and went away. few days noise came back, and two days ago on highway, I floor it for at least just 4 seconds, to get a feel of the car on higher gear, noise came back LOUD. pulled over, then drove to off the highway at very low speed, eventually at about 15mph noise went away and bam, engine stopped right away, and i could hear piece land on the floor bouncing... So far the observation is that it broke the upper oil pan, on the corner facing the throttle body.

So as for steps to take, of course i'll find out what happened in there and how much damage the block and crank took. if block and crank is damaged them I am going to build the 3.0, if they arent damaged then im going to build the 3.5.

 

Damn that seriously sucks. Hopefully the 3.5 block and crank are ok. even building the 3.0 i don't think you'll be as happy.... Good luck!

 

i hope there's no oilis on my driveway, lol

 

nah, the oil pan broke on the top, so no oil leaked. but thanx for letting me leave the car at ur house for a day

 

yea man thanks for the driveway! I watered your pretty flowers outside j/k lol

 

So iv been thinking on what to do next, tomorrow I am going to take off oil pans and see what really happened and how much damage was made. The ideas iv been having are

if 3.5 crank and block is good, rebuild it with strong rods, new bearings obviously, lower comp pistons maybe wiseco. There is a kit that goes for about $1k, plus rods would be like 1450 or so.

If 3.5 block cant be used, I was thinking of building the 3.0 with lower comp pistons and stronger rods as well.

OR, i was looking at tilleys old setup, the "vq32de", since I got two 3.0's in backyard, and now a 3.5, if i can use the 3.5 block, it might be interesting to put the 3.0 crank and rods in the 3.5, lowering the compression, and maybe putting stronger 3.0 rods although i think the stock ones are good enough. This would probably the cheaper of the builds.

what do you guys think? My power goal is around low mid 400's whp. safely and reliable.

 

...well that lasted all of 10 seconds.

You want power? Get a better platform.

/thread.

Edit: If your oil pan is cracked, more than likely your crank is toast, cause something pretty major must've happened to crack it.

 

Could the ticking sound come from the timming chain ? The 3.5s have that issue with either the timming chain guide or tensoir. I had that issue and after going synthic , the noise went away.
I doubt what Cory said about the spacers bumping up your compression could have done this. My cousin 3GT VR4 is running spacers on 16G turbos and he has yet to do any damge,also the 3.5s are known for burning oil as well ,

I say if your going to rebuild it , why not got 3.5 with 3.0 heads with lower comp pistons ? At this point the skys the limit for you now since you got options to choose which route your going to take.

Good luck Streetz

 

Wow - that bites.....

 

nah the sound was from the bottom, not the timing area, i had a brand new tensioner n everything, never heard a sound from the timing area. btw putting the spacers on the intake manifold, does not in anyway affect or change compression, thats only if u put thicker head gasket or something.

 

AFTERMATH:

So i took off oil pans, and took some pictures of the damage.

The rod was still on the crank, it broke in half in the middle, more towards the piston, one piece still on pistons wrist pint, other half on crank. By eye inspection the cranks journals looks spotless, after i took off the rod, i dont understand what could have caused this.

The block, did get a good amount of damage that I dont know if i am going to be able to re-use it to be honest. might have weaken it.









I am completely clueless as to what may have caused the rod to snap in half. while i had pulled over and let the car idle in park, i could hear the sound loud, yet my a/f was PERFECT, i turned off each cylinder one by one, and u can feel the difference (this done via obd scanner), meaning all cylinders were firing. also while in idle car ran smooth, even driving it, it was running so smooth. (except for the loud tapping sound), now the tapping sound, i doubt it was the rod bearing, because while rod was still in place i moved it and could not feel too much play, no burn marks or anything on the bearing. I dont understand......

 

Streetz, that rod appears to be bent - maybe from striking the block or mains girdle, but do I see cracks around the broken end ???

If so, the rod might have failed all by itself, from material fatigue or being revved to 10,000 RPMs...

Anyway, that's a tough break for you (no pun intended).

 

nah there are no cracks on the rod, just pretty bent, it must have been damaged from before i put it in, because I didnt rev it out nor put stress on it, i mean i floored it a few times, but my tune was perfect, timing was perfect, no knocking, nothing..