Any trips to a dyno?

 

nah not yet.

 

vid running 20psi please

 

noooo,you dont need any ideas on how to get faster mister

 

lets forget about a street vid.. i want to see a 1/4 mile vid and a dyno vid. did you figure out the rich issue?? if your coils are good shouldnt be an issue imo.

 

Well, i leaned it out more, now its in the mid/high 11's and pretty flat. Even with that a/f, and .026gap it was still misfiring. I turned up the voltage to the coils to 15v, and almost dont feel a thing (as far as misfire), gap still at .026. When I have time im going to increase the gap to .030-.035 and up the voltage to 16v (which eddy safely ran for a long time, and I think still running around). Right away though, with 15v, the car felt so much more responsive, boost comes in great, car feels like it overall has more power.

I do feel that my muffler is causing a huge choke on my setup, considering im not getting 20psi in 2nd gear, as soon as it shifts into 3rd thats when it jumps up to 19-20. So i am going to have to get a cutout. I kno that ****'s robbing alot of HP. Eddy was loosing 29whp from a STRAIGHT THROUGH muffler, so mine must be taking away a crap load of power ~50 at least.

 

good deal man, how much boost do you get in 1st gear??? do you atleast see 14 psi in fist gear?? i know the cure for that, and i think you already have it, all you need is to pick up a fuel solenoid and a fuel line and a wet fogger and youre good to gooooo....75 shot with noid switch turning it off when you hit your 20 psi and i think you should be rolling.... (0: do it it it it it, do it it

 

haha, yea man im thinking about that juice again, loved it with the 3.0, but sold it to make up for the build.

in 1st gear, i get about 8-9psi, 2nd gear I get about 16-17psi, and 3rd gear is when it jumps to 19-20. But you know what, I actually like it like that, it keeps the tires from lighting up. If i brake boost in 1st, since it dosnt need time to spool up and builds up more boost but the car also goes into burn out mode, and will spin through entire 1st, 2nd, and probably 3rd, i always let off in top of 2nd, no point in sitting in same 10feet worth of distance doing a burn out LOL.

How the boost comes in without brake boosting from a stop, it already spins on top of 1st, and continues spinning the beginning of 2nd. so its basically perferct for the street. For the track, I think if I brake boost in 1st, id be able to get like 14psi, then 2nd id be at 20 for sure.

 

yeah, 1-2nd used to suck just spinning, did that change with the built and new tune?? bc i used to get full boost in 1st, but it was only 10-13 psi the highest i ever went?? did you see more boost in 1st pre-build?

so when are you going to the track? dyno? whenever you go to a big *** turbo, you can do the nitrous, like a gt40 and 100 shot, dam, now that is crazy, lol

 

I gotta fix a few bugs first. right now i lowerd the boost to 15, at 20 i was getting alot of misfire, even with low gap n all. at 15psi its actually so much quicker, more power, and no misfire.

 

yeah, mifires suck nutz, im actually taking the gn out to the track soon, i have to find the balanced point btwwhere i can floor it without it missing. runs clean except at 100% fuel and timing,.so you think its still the ignition causing it to miss? have you leaned it out a bit to see if it gets better?

 

Yea its not air/fuel related. on friday im puttin in new plugs.
Someone mentioned something that might be very possible, "reversion" basically there could be excessive pre-turbine exhaust pressure and causing that pressure to leak back into combustion when valves overlap. This could be a possibility considering my muffler is pretty restrictive, and also I dont think my overall setup is ready for such high boost. Specially my intercooler (real small). So for now I am going to keep it at 15psi, and eventually upgrade. Get a bigger intercooler with bigger inlets, then from the outlet of the IC to the engine put bigger piping. So it will make things alot more efficient and no chokes. Also, I will get a cutout thats either boost activated or electrical. These things should make a HUGE difference, even if i stay at lower boost.

For now at 15psi it feels wicked lol, 1st spins, 2nd spins at start then eventually catches, then when 3rd comes in, you feel like a little kick and starts pulling even harder than 2nd. I am going to the track October 2nd with some mustang buddies of mine, its 1/8th pero its something lol

 

better than nothing, just wont really shine as much as in the 1/4. stop being such a lazy bastard and take a drive. youre pioneering the rear mount, so youre in a brave new world. good ,luck man, let me know how it goes

 

I went to the 1/8th track, heres the thread about it: http://forums.maxima.org/1-4-1-8-mil...ml#post7235057

cliffnotes: not impressed and was slower than the 3.0, because no slicks and no nitrous.

I am 100% sure now, that I am going to get a simple nitrous kit for just 1st gear (50shot).

I also no longer have the EU controlling timing, I am using the J&S and I like it so far. it showed me times that it was retarding timing due to knock (but i have the sensor to almost max, just to be extra cautious, even with it at max, i almost didnt get a single retard)

the car was misfiring alot the whole way down the track, the more timing I gave it, the less it misfired, eventually it started to feel so smooth and pulling hard. no misfire, and plugs looked great with no detonation. A guesstimation on how much peak timing (around 6k rpm) I have is about 19 degrees. I think the reason it was misfiring with more timing retarded was because since I have the JS retarding based on boost, at mid 4k the ECU already has low timing, so it was getting close into the single digit, like 9degree's. I def need to get the EU hooked back up now that I think about it.

 

I read your race thread...

Your MPH is higher at this point. The higher the MPH, the higher the HP or the better the HP to Weight ratio.

Yeah, you might wanna put an electric cut out on your exhaust. Preferably before the catalytic converter (if you have one). Mount the slicks up. And you may want to consider a higher-stall TC in the future. Once you uncork the exhaust, you should see a world of difference, especially when trying to build boost at the line.

 

I dont think you are familiar with his turbo setup. he can run a cutout but it would have to be at the tail pipe, where his turbo is. I suggested a high stall to him since i have one and love it.

 

Wow. I didnt know his car was a rear-mount. My bad. OK. Forget what I said about the cut-out. LOL!

High stall converter FTW!

 

youre gonna loose mileage as a daily with a converter. i say the car will be night and day when youre ready to run 20 psi, something to think about is adding a 2nd pump and using e85, since its available back home. not sure if you have the injectors for it tough. 30% more usage. and a nice 75 shot wet for the launch will help with the slicks for sure. MOROSO when youre tuned in brother, let that maxi pad go ..

 

He wont lose much mileage seeing he has supra stick. I still average 25mpg with a 3300 stall also. I know he doenst have the injector to run e85 seeing he would need at least 750cc. I would run 100cc but then you run into tunabilty and drivabilty issues then.

 

Nah as far as e85, I dont wanna venture into something new just yet, I wanna get my car running as is first. I would also have to change to larger injectors since mine are only 440s.

For the TC, I really dont wanna deal with taking out the tranny n all that lol. So the second best option is nitrous and thats what I am going with.

Next track visit, which I plan on in a week or two, I will be going in slicks, no muffler.

 

Yea, according to the MPH there is some gain in power. Also in this track visit, not only did i not use slicks, but the overall weight of the car is more. The trunk has a good 80lb's worth of crap, and the stock rims weigh 50lb each. so with empty trunk (how i usually go to the track), plus much lighter rims with slicks mounted. I am positive its going to be very very close if not inside the 7's, specially with no muffler (open turbo exhaust).

 

So the auto finally died, took it out today and opened it up: The band looks a little bad, the clutches inside the high clutch are burnt up and look pretty bad with even blue marks from overheating from the friction. No sign of actual damage from an input shaft or any of the gear teeth or anything.

I am going to take this broken auto to a local shop called ATF, and see what kind of quote they give me on a built auto based on the components that failed. I think with a clutch, band upgrade this auto can hold a good amount of power. Considering it has held up my abuse for years, Jim's as well. I dont think we really need anything else to upgrade.

Another option is getting an auto built by IPT, it cost $3,175 and also include 12month/12k miles warranty. I have heared good things about them, their customer service is great. Level 10, ehhhhh ill pass on them. Lets see what the local shop tells me.

 

See if they can squeeze a extra disk or two in there, believe me it helps

 

Well I was thinking of ordering a rebuild kit from IPT and just putting it together, But dont know if I wanna get involved with this although it dosnt look too bad, but still, no garage to have a tranny on a bench to work on. I got my old man complaining already lol.

 

I've heard good things from ATF. Let us know how it goes if you deal with them.

 

Does the rebuild kit make it any stronger than stock or is it just replacement parts?

 

Its higher strength friction materials, I have decided to go with IPT. I really like how the customer service is and how detailed they are, they modify the pump for higher flow and higher pressure, they heat treat all the metals such as input shafts and anything that has gear/teeth on them, they machine the casings to be able to fit more clutch disks' on both reverse and forwards clutch packs, they also do a VB, improved cooling passages, everything basically. Should be a bullet proof auto. Ty at IPT told me it will support 450-500hp, i told him what about higher hp. he said ofcourse, he just says 450-500 because thats pretty much the standard, but it will basically handle anything I throw at it. (well realistically that is, im sure it wont handle 1000hp, or maybe it will, but i wont find out lol)

 

Maybe u will be the first!

 

Are u going to get rid of the wimpy stock stall? Please say yes.

 

Well, not for now. Tomorrow I put in the junk yard auto, its going in with stock converter, and transgo.

 

Do your ever plan to install a high stall convertor, it will help spool.

 

One day, Times are tough right now and I keep hearing also that its harsh on fuel economy..

 

thats only if you go with a stall thats the same or higher than your highway cruising rpm. If this is the case the convertor never fully locks up hurting mpg. But if I remember correctly you can manually lock your right

 

correct, actually i also have the TC being controlled by the stock TCM, so it will still lock cruising above 40mph. dosnt it hurt mpg in stop and go traffic though?

 

It's actually the other way around on the highway. According to Edge Racing Converters, the high stall is a tad more efficient, especially once locked up. I didn't notice a gain in gas mileage though on the highway. And I DEFINITELY didn't notice a loss in gas mileage around town or on the highway. I have a 3000 stall roughly.

If you are able to notice a loss in mpg around town, then I will be very surprised. That is assuming you go with a reasonably mild stall around 2800-3000rpm. I'm actually seriously thinking about going with a 4K stall one day.

I'll be in South Florida in a couple months if you want to get together. I'd be happy to let you drive my car so you can get a feel for what partial throttle feels like when driving around town. I BARELY noticed a difference between my stock 1800 stall and the 3K high stall I have now. All you'll notice is that you will have to push the throttle pedal a TINY bit more to accelerate at partial light throttle from 0 to 10mph. I guarantee you'll be extremely happy with a 3K stall. I wouldn't go with anything less than 3K though, especially with you being turbo.

 

Alittle but it's really not that bad you'd only be going from 1800 to 3k. I went from a 1200 to 3k in my truck any it's not bad, drives fine in traffic but your tranny temps will be alittle higher if you do a lot of stop and go but again not much.

Now my buddy has a 35k and I can not deal with it but when you punch it hold on that thing flashes right up and goes

 

Thanx for the suggestions guys, I am definitely going to go with it, just not right now. When I do, I will be go with 3k.

Aaron, for sure let me know when your down here so we can meet up, id like to see how a higher stall drives.

 

Yeah I'd like to meet up. I should be there in the early part of June.

I am pretty in tuned with my car and I could BARELY notice a difference between the 1800 and 3K stall at partial throttle acceleration. And my transmission temperatures did not change by more than 5 degrees when doing city driving. But when you STOMP on the gas, it flashes to 3K and of course the tires go up in smoke. When I put slicks on, my 60 foot lowered by .15 and I shaved 3 tenths in the 1/4 mile. That is comparing perfect traction before to perfect traction after. You'll see a much bigger improvement if you are able to get the slicks to hook once you build some boost off the line.

 

I showed him my 2800, u can barely tell the difference. But u can stand on it and it wont move till 2600-2800 lol

 

The "new" auto is in, tomorrow I put in axles, fluid, and test it out. I was shown two autos at the yard, the one I picked had great color on the fluid, cherry red, the other one was more brownish. Hopefully this auto is good, based on the fluid it looks great.

I am going to drive with the stock VB for a week or two on the cheapest fluid I can buy, then flush it out and put in some good stuff as well as the Transgo.