4.5gen backyard turbo build
Well, I am going to try and pickup a dek next weekend for 400.00 with 77k miles. It sucks I really want another 3.5 but all the one's in my area are between 800-1k.
I am plaing to remove the swirl valves, power rod, and port the uim for a pftb. I was kicking around the idea of installing the 3.5 cams but it doesn't seem to be worth the trouble.
I am plaing to remove the swirl valves, power rod, and port the uim for a pftb. I was kicking around the idea of installing the 3.5 cams but it doesn't seem to be worth the trouble.
changed my mind about the dek and will just wait for a good deal on a 3.5. I just don't think I can go back to a 3.0 after having a 3.5swap
btw, going to send my ecu back to jwt and have them add a 2step, lower the rev limiter to 7k and change the timing map back to stock from 2600rpms and below
btw, going to send my ecu back to jwt and have them add a 2step, lower the rev limiter to 7k and change the timing map back to stock from 2600rpms and below
when activated you press the clutch and go wot, I didn't how it would work for a auto but on my truck I have a momentary button so when I press it the 2step kicks in and when release it goes back to the normal rev limit. I just it would be the same.
Well I picked up a 2001 dek with 57k miles for 350.00, now it's time to remove the swirl valves, power rod and port the uim to match the pftb. Then I'll heat wrap my headers, cut out the old rad support and weld in some angle iron.
you can make more reliable power .. hell of a deal for 57k nice!!!
^ Thanks will do, I may push the car in my drive this weekend and drain the fluids and remove the rad. I still need to order a dek to pftb adapter plate and a fuel rail adapter.
Then remove the power rod, swirl valves, repair the rad support and make another feedpipe before I install the new motor
Then remove the power rod, swirl valves, repair the rad support and make another feedpipe before I install the new motor
ok so I started pulling the motor today and started checking the condition of everything and the turbo is seized AAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
My fault for not checking the turbo before I bought the dek would have never done it. I guess went the motor went if starved the turbo. I am done going back to a all motor which will suck big time after having a boosted 3.5. Maybe I'll throw in the 3.5 cams get a eu
btw the turbo kit is up for sell naturally reduced price
My fault for not checking the turbo before I bought the dek would have never done it. I guess went the motor went if starved the turbo. I am done going back to a all motor which will suck big time after having a boosted 3.5. Maybe I'll throw in the 3.5 cams get a eu
btw the turbo kit is up for sell naturally reduced price
ok so I started pulling the motor today and started checking the condition of everything and the turbo is seized AAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
My fault for not checking the turbo before I bought the dek would have never done it. I guess went the motor went if starved the turbo. I am done going back to a all motor which will suck big time after having a boosted 3.5. Maybe I'll throw in the 3.5 cams get a eu
btw the turbo kit is up for sell naturally reduced price

My fault for not checking the turbo before I bought the dek would have never done it. I guess went the motor went if starved the turbo. I am done going back to a all motor which will suck big time after having a boosted 3.5. Maybe I'll throw in the 3.5 cams get a eu
btw the turbo kit is up for sell naturally reduced price

man ever since more a more people got to using the holsets, they arent 200 beans anymore..
if it wasnt a biatch to swap id be down for a swap dek for 3.5 and some turbo piping
but id aggree man, rebuild or get another turbo..all motor dek after having a 3.5 turbo will suck

if it wasnt a biatch to swap id be down for a swap dek for 3.5 and some turbo piping

but id aggree man, rebuild or get another turbo..all motor dek after having a 3.5 turbo will suck
Man that was the 1st thing I thought about but the problem with the holset is it's so different compared to my turbo I would have change the turbo and wg flange, redo the 2nd part of my feedpipe, the 1st part of my downpipe and intercooler piping just to make it work . It would be easier to just make another kit and I have a half completed feedpipe in my basement.
imho, I would love to go back to a all motor 3.5 with a jwt ecu and a 50shot. I had my fun with the maxima it's time to move on. I am going to focus on my truck for now and my G35c, modding 3 cars is getting expensive. Plus I have to get this car back on the road before it snows since it's the only fwd car I have
imho, I would love to go back to a all motor 3.5 with a jwt ecu and a 50shot. I had my fun with the maxima it's time to move on. I am going to focus on my truck for now and my G35c, modding 3 cars is getting expensive. Plus I have to get this car back on the road before it snows since it's the only fwd car I have
Last edited by t6378tp; Oct 23, 2010 at 09:33 PM.
the only problem with the holset is it's just so different compared to my turbo I would have to redo the 2nd part of my feedpipe and the 1st part of my downpipe and intercooler piping just to make it work . It would be easier to just make another kit and I have a feedpipe thats almost done.
imho, I would love to go back to a all motor 3.5 with a jwt ecu and a 50shot. I had my fun with the maxima it's time to move on. I am going to focus on my truck for now and my G35c, modding 3 cars is getting expensive. Plus I have to get this car back on the road before it snows since it's the only fwd car I have
imho, I would love to go back to a all motor 3.5 with a jwt ecu and a 50shot. I had my fun with the maxima it's time to move on. I am going to focus on my truck for now and my G35c, modding 3 cars is getting expensive. Plus I have to get this car back on the road before it snows since it's the only fwd car I have
Like I said I already have a feedpipe that just needs a flange so making another downpipe wouldn't take much time at all. But even still I just done right now and still have a 600hp S10 to play with plus I am looking to buy another house next year can not just keep throwing money at the maxima right now
ok so I going to sell my feedpipe and 1st part of the downpipe get a holset and make feed and down for it. till I locate a turbo I'll just make a pipe to connect the 1st part of the feedpipe to the 2nd part of the downpipe so I can continue to drive the car.
I just needed alittle time to think and cool off, I just can't go back to a n/a dek after having a boosted 3.5
I just needed alittle time to think and cool off, I just can't go back to a n/a dek after having a boosted 3.5
but I did get some somewhat good news, I called Rob a modular performance and they sad to send the turbo back and worst case it would be 350 for a rebuild and if they can not rebuild it he will sell me another turbo at cost.
so I am going to keep the turbo kit and just sell the feedpipe and use the new one I made.
with that said anyone looks to buy a feedpipe it's already sprayed and wrapped 425+shipping or local pickup
ok so I tore the motor down to the bare block and found that the rod and main bearings were trashed and the second rod from the timing cover was bend. The pistons were fine no broken ring lands but two of the pistons popped out alittle easier than the others, finally confirmed what I was thinking and the reason the motor was down on power. Also I could still see the cross hatches even after 130k on the motor and no sign of the headgasket leaking.
I am glad to see after years of reving to 72k, nitrous, boost and hundreds of street and track passes the motor didn't look too bad. One thing I did learn is that a stock 3.5 bottomend does not like years of reving to 72k rpms as the topend was fine and the cams showed no signs of being starved for oil it appears to me that the bottomend just had enough. I think if the rev limit was set to stock or 6800 seeing how I had stock cams it didn't make power that high anyway the motor would have lasted alittle longer. But I sure had alot of fun and won alot of races just by out reving the other guy.
oh well time to see if a stock dek can handle 10psi daily and 14psi + meth at the track
I am glad to see after years of reving to 72k, nitrous, boost and hundreds of street and track passes the motor didn't look too bad. One thing I did learn is that a stock 3.5 bottomend does not like years of reving to 72k rpms as the topend was fine and the cams showed no signs of being starved for oil it appears to me that the bottomend just had enough. I think if the rev limit was set to stock or 6800 seeing how I had stock cams it didn't make power that high anyway the motor would have lasted alittle longer. But I sure had alot of fun and won alot of races just by out reving the other guy.
oh well time to see if a stock dek can handle 10psi daily and 14psi + meth at the track
Last edited by t6378tp; Oct 30, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
and my clutch slipped. I never heard anything but I did notice the pistons in the front bank were running leaner than the rear so I am thinkings like 96sleeper and a few others stated after a certain point the corrections need to be made to the 3.5 fuel rail
I was running 8psi but the rings as the rings were leaking pretty bad and I could hear the air coming out when I tested them. I never dyno'd the car but going by my trap at the track I'm guessing around 320hp at 8psi and 400+hp at 17psi. I only did that one time by mistake when I was making the the 3inch exhaust and was driving around with a open downpipe hit full boost
and my clutch slipped.
I never heard anything but I did notice the pistons in the front bank were running leaner than the rear so I am thinkings like 96sleeper and a few others stated after a certain point the corrections need to be made to the 3.5 fuel rail
and my clutch slipped. I never heard anything but I did notice the pistons in the front bank were running leaner than the rear so I am thinkings like 96sleeper and a few others stated after a certain point the corrections need to be made to the 3.5 fuel rail
I agree, a 3.0 would handle 400 all day if ur tune is perfect.
Going to start removing the unneeded parts from the dek swapping over the accessories from the 3.5 and do the swirl valves and power rod this week. Going to try and weld the rad support and drop the motor in by next weekend.
My next 3.5 will be in a 5.5gen 6spd
well time to get off my lazy azz and swap over the alt, a/c compressor and headers. Not going to install the p/s pump this time.
Tomorrow I'll put the flywheel and clutch on then remove the upper and lower intake.
Tomorrow I'll put the flywheel and clutch on then remove the upper and lower intake.
yeah motor and trans are in now I just need to hook everything up, weld the rad support and remove the power rod and swirl valves from the upper and lower intake.
Should have the car up and running by the end of the month then ship the turbo off to masterpower and see what they say
Should have the car up and running by the end of the month then ship the turbo off to masterpower and see what they say
well got off my lazy azz and removed the swirl valves and got the lim welded. today I installed the lim and injectors. Going to do the plugs in a bit then start on the rad support
Tomorrow I'll spray and wrapp the new feedpipe and port out the uim to match the pftb.
Tomorrow I'll spray and wrapp the new feedpipe and port out the uim to match the pftb.
Well here are some pic's of my rad support, I chopped out most of the rust sprayed some anit rust stuff inside. Then welded the rad support back together grinded it down then welded some angle iron on top for extra support. Then I sprayed everything again with most of that stuff.
Well here are some pic's I took with my cellphone

Well here are some pic's I took with my cellphone




