http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=boo...ller&_osacat=0

I have the $30 one. IT is PERFECT Send him a message and tell him you are from the DSM forums and he will give you a discount.

 

hmm, seperate map based injector controller doesnt sound so bad anymore, less variables. any pics / updates?

 

thanks, for that price I'll just buy it. reminds me of the one people used to make

 

Those arent too bad, thats the first type of controller i ever had, Just make sure your tuned for slightly higher boost than you want, because you can get occasional spike when boost first comes in.

 

which controller do you have or suggest. also do you think that a 38mm wastegate is too small for low boost and does not vent enough gas and causes the small spikes. cause I am getting a 44mm wg

 

Not to butt in here. But I have the Greddy Profec B type 2 (boost controler) and works great.

 

it's nice but way out of my price range

 

I'm running a manual boost controller with a 5lb spring but a 38mm wg. It can spike if I jump on the gas. But if there are no adjustments through the controller the wg opens at spring pressure. I have it at about 8lbs but I have seen it spike to almost 11. I have emanage blue and my timing retarded though. You should be good with the 44mm wg.

 

ok cool, cause after all the reading and running the numbers I felt a 38mm was too small for low boost. I wg would alway be open and it did not think it would be able to vent enough gas tp prevent spikes. now if I was going to run around 14-15psi or had streets motor I would not care but I plan to run 10psi and can't afford a spike

btw I plan to set my timing around 20-21 degree's to give my alittle cushion encase I do have a small spike

 

also I talked to JWT and my ecu should be back in a few weeks so they claim and I am ordering the 44mm tial wg with a 6lb spring tomorrow and bidding on a holset hx35 7blade

I could not find anything has anyone with a 3inch exhaust and cutout ever dyno'd, I am wonder just how much more power a cutout will make over a 3inch exhaust. I have a 2.5inch with cutout and know a few people with that setup and know the difference but could not find anything about a 3inch

try to see if I should just run a 3inch down pipe with a 2.5inch exhaust and cutout or a full 3inch and no cutout

 

vere nice work

 

Damn I cant come up with the name of mine, but the way I have it hooked up it does not really matter what controller you get. Now part reason some manual controllers give you spike is because they have a ball and spring inside, the point of that is so that the ball keeps the path closed while boost goes up, then when it reaches certain pressure the spring gives up and air passes through and bleeds. I was having issues with this because i guess the spring is too soft and the ball would pulse open/close. So i removed it and I am using the controller as only a bleed valve. No spike, and very stable boost. I know Perrin is a good brand controller, but if you use it as a bleed valve and not use the spring, then you can use anything u can get ur hands on, even getting a lil piece of metal and drilling a small hole. so it bleeds off pressure.


I did alot of research on this, and if you wanna go manual, the IDEAL way would be to have TWO valves. One that bleeds, which leaks pressure so the WG see's less pressure, and the other valve to control when the pressure will reach the WG. basically from manifold a line goes into the pressure valve (which allows flow at X pressure, adjustable), then the 2nd valve is wat actually will control your boost level.

 

if your planning to stick with the hx35, id say the a full 3" exhaust would be pretty darn good, although no matter what a cutout right at the down pipe is ALWAYS better, its just pure physics. the closer to zero restriction on the turbo's outlet the better. but on the hx35, 3" piping all the way back would be pretty good, considering the hx35 is actually not even 3" its more like 2.5-2.75 if u look inside turbine outlet. Goodluck on the 7blade 35, its supposed to flow as much as the HX40 8 blade, I got super lucky finding an HX40 6 blade!, eventually i'll put it on and go for my HP goals, since my hx35 is maxed out

 

bump for updated pic's, finished the pipe to connect the feed to the exhaust so I can drive the car till I get a turbo to finish the feed and downpipe

 

Ok so these are the three turbo's I am looking to get, they are all good for 500-600 crank hp and cost the same amount. I am leaning towards the t-61 since my piping will be so short but the t-60 maybe the best fit

60-1/p trim, compressor side, a/r .70, air inlet 101.7, a/r outlet 64, ind wheel 58.1, exd wheel 76, trim 58 blade count 6, turbine side, a/r .68, inlet t4, discharge outlet v-band, turbine housing undivded, exd wheel 64.5, ind wheel 74, trim 76, blade count 10

t-60/p trim, compressor side, a/r .70, air inlet 101.7, a/r outlet 64, ind wheel 60.5, exd wheel 76, trim 52 blade count 6, turbine side, a/r .68, inlet t4, discharge outlet v-band, turbine housing undivded, exd wheel 64.5, ind wheel 74, trim 76, blade count 10

t-61/p trim, compressor side, a/r .70, air inlet 101.7, a/r outlet 64, ind wheel 61, exd wheel 91, trim 45 blade count 6, turbine side, a/r .68, inlet t4, discharge outlet v-band, turbine housing undivded, exd wheel 64.5, ind wheel 74, trim 76, blade count 10

 

I am not the best when it comes to selecting turbos and all the numbers n stuff, but Id go with the t-61 for its larger inducer wheel (i assume more airflow per psi).

How much do they cost to get an idea?

Have you looked at holset? The HX40 fits what you are looking for I think, for example mine has exhaust housing of 16cm^2 (.83 A/R) T3 divided 4" vband outlet, with 60mm compressor wheel (6 blade). Most importantly (at least for me) a holset can be had for dirt cheap vs. any other. just giving you heads up incase your interested.

 

I've been looking at holset turbo's but since people started getting thier incomes taxes prices have gone up lately. I was bidding on a 7 blade hx35 but the guy ended the auction and another went for more then I was willing to pay for a used turbo. Plus another thing I found a few ads were the person would post pic's of two different turbo's and when I ask them about it I never here back, SHADY.

The master power turbo's are 600.00 new so I figured for a few more bucks I can get excatly what I want

 

Ok so I am going with the T61/P-Trim

Will order a intercooler soon as my rims sell and finsh all the piping

 

progression

 

hey man, i know master power has come along way, but some precisions are out there for the same 600 bucks. only reason i mention is bc i have a 4.5 and im still considering boost. waiting to see how well the oil return situation works out for you and your pics. may take a trip to philly to check it out dude, not too far

as far as the dp and exhaust. from past experience being lowered and having a 3inch pipe under the tranny that bottomed out if not careful. i would think about a 2.5 inch dp with a cutout. if youre not too low, a full 3 inch exhaust from dp to muffler would work and no mission about taking off cut out. if $$ are an issue, a 3 inch dp with ta 3 inch cutout would work , keeping the current catback.

got any pics from the top ?

 

All pics are on the 1st page, if you have something in mind you want to see let me know and I can take a pic.

As for the DP, I am going with a 3inch DP and 3inch oval pipe under the smallest part of the tranny. My car is lowered 2.25 inches in the front and 2inches in the rear. If the DP turns out to be too low I will run it over the front mount and under the oil pan.

I am placing the order this wekend for the turbo, flange and oil line this wekend so I'll checkout the precisions turbos before I do

 

theres no such thing as being too low

 

yeah there is


ah,, great ideas, how much have you spent on materials thus far on the feed and dp pipe if you dont mind stating?

 

feedpipe:
used y-pipe - 50bucks
mandrel bends - 65bucks
v-band - 35bucks
t4 flange 15bucks
heat wrap - had some left over form anoher build
silicone spray paint - 10bucks
stainless steel zip ties - 20bucks

connector pipe:
mandrel bend - 30bucks
v-band - 35bucks

down pipe:
mandrel bends 70bucks
v-band - 35bucks
turbo v-band 55bucks
heat wrap - had left overs from another build
stainless steel zip ties - had left overs from another build


misc parts:
10inch cutting disk - 10bucks
saw zaw blades - 10bucks
welding wire - 10bucks
masking tape - 5bucks

all prices are shipped others I got local after taxes

 

btw got my tial 44mm v-band WG this week. will order the turbo, flange and oil lines this week

I will order a intercooler, piping kit, bov and injectors with my next check and hope for good weather so I can install everything

 

i took apart my turbo today i just have to extract the 4 bolts i stripped lol, then weld the flaps shut then clock and assemble...:-) ill just call in the morning

 

Quick question guys, I am planning to run my maf post turbo and was wondering abut the iacv. I figured it would not be a good idea to run boost into it. I was thinking I should just disconnect it or install a check valve but wasn't sure if a check valve would hold at 10psi.

What are you guys doing, btw I still have a/c, powersteering and stock flywheel

 

I'm running a blow through maf and the car would not stay running at idle with it disconnected. Even if you look at the stillen s/c pipe it has the connector for the hose, I don't think any damage would take place from boost.

 

yo bro your the t-61 is a great choice.. just to give the heads up my the t-70 is seeming to big...

I probably have a boost leak, but i have a 5.7 psi spring in the wastegate and dont pass 4.5 psi.. In any gear, and she spools at 3500 and boosts at 4200, pretty big turbo, just giving you the heads up, i should have went with the t-61

 

Yeah that's a pretty big turbo. Supra and mustang guys run that turbo. If you ever plan to extend your rev limiter that thing will never stop making power

Hell hit it with a 35shot problem fixed

 

Now that u guys are talking about that, im worried about me having trouble spooling the hx40, i think i got an 18cm housing instead of 16cm, but still t3, not sure how being t3 will differ from you guys with t4's, the little hx35 with 12cm t3 housing spools up like nothing, even by mistake i get into boost. I really hope I dont have major lag issues with the 40.

 

i dont think you will have an issue, i think some 4 bangers are using the hx40s out there. t70s t4 with above .69 ar turbine housings, yeah, hmm, turbo likes well above 10 psi(400 whp) too much for stock vq,

 

yeah I think you'll be fine, remember he has a 3.0 not a 3.5.. Also the t4 housing is basicly like running a 2.25 exhaust compared to a 2.5, it helps in higher rpms when the engines exhaust really start pumping out some air.

I've heard some 4banger guys that were worried about spool with the hx40 used the hx35 exhaust side

 

are those 3.0 ebay headers on your 3.5 (car)?

 

I think i'll stick with the 40 housing for now and try it out, i have read that if you use the 35 exhaust housing that it wont be able to keep up with the compressor (specially having the higher flowing hx40 compressor 6blade).

 

Yes those are the SS-autochrome shorties

 

hmmmm..... i have the same ones on my 3.5, so did you get another y, or did you destroy the one from the header kit?

 

No, I had a budget y-pipe on the Max. But I did use a ebay y-pipe to cut up for the feedpipe

The ebay y-pipe uses smaller diameter piping then budget

 

ok got the turbo, oil lines, flange the other day but it's snowing so I can't finish the feedpipe. Also my v-band does not fit this turbo so I had to order one for it but I was able to re-clock it last nite.

I am going to order a bov and intercooler next week and have everything ready so whenever jwt gives me back me ecu all I should need is injectors and I am good to go

 

Bump for turbo pic added, my ecu should be back from jwt next week. If it ever stop snowing I will finish the piping.

btw, after driving around in the snow for the last 2 weeks a 3inch downpipe under the tranny will not work in the winter. I will take some measurements but my options are 3inch oval pipe or 3inch downpipe off the turbo and right before the tranny down to 2.5 into a cutout