Hi guys,

Just bought myself an Innovate LC-1 WB02 with XD-16 gauge for my car so I can tune it myself. Instructions off the Innovate website make sense, but I have a few questions I'm hoping you guys can answer for me.

I assume that I can use the existing O2 bung behind the cat, replace the factory O2 sensor with the innovate one, and splice the existing O2 harness into one of the analog outputs? My question is, which wire colours connect to what source on the factory harness? There are three wires aren't there?

I have done a few searches and come up empty.. thought this would have been a common question...

Any help much appreciated

 

You want your wideband BEFORE the cat.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...questions.html

What made you decide on the lc-1? I've seen a bunch of people complaining about recalibrating the unit.

 

LC-1 was recommended to me by Wizard.

I did look at that topic before but it had no mention of which wires from the LC-1 splice into the oem O2 harness.

Sorry - just had a look. Bung is before the cat

 

The LC-1 is a great wideband but it does suck when you have to recalibrate it. I would recommend putting the bung right after the V in the Y pipe where the two pipes meet at.
Good luck
Zack

 

I hated my LC1, it worked ok when it actually worked but I always had to calibrate it which was a pain. Then it finally just died, within a week of use. Innovative replaced it for free but I decided to ditch it after reading about others having the same issuses on the Innovative forums.
Like Kevlo stated, it needs to go before the cat. It would be better to just have an addtional bung welded in. Innovative supplies on with their wideband.
Below is a bad pic of the general location that I have mine in...

 

Thanks guys. I'll roll her on up to an exhaust shop to weld the bung in.

Turns out the kit I bought had the DB gauge, not the XD-16 I wanted. Bit of an oversight on my behalf as the DB gauge is analog.

This calibration thing sounds like a pain in the ***...

 

I contacted the shop and paid an extra $140 to get the kit with the XD-16 gauge. Apparently it has a few more features on it including calibration????

 

You calibrate through the gauge I belive vs a laptop
My new wideband calibrates itself. Its the PLX. Im prety happy with it.

 

Yeah I'm sure. Too late now, bought the LC-1. Either way it's better than that crappy narrowband disco gauge I bought the other day.

What are your thoughts on optimum AFR for a boosted application? I was thinking of running it a little richer than the typical 14.7. What is the supposed optimal AFR for a sc'd application? I live in the tropics, so I was thinking of around 11 - 11.5.

 

14.7 is fine at idle, AFRs change throughout the power band and at different boost levels.
You wouldnt want to run 11-11.5 all throughout the powerband, well it would work but wouldnt yeild the best gains.

 

Combined with the XD-16, calibration is a snap.


Yup, calibration is done via the XD-16.

You got it. 11-11.5 is ideal. at WOT. Glad you returned the narrowband, and splurged for the XD-16.

Years later, I still have no problems with my LC-1/XD-16. Just read the instructions and install it EXACTLY like they state. No shortcuts.

 

I installed it EXACTLY how they said. Soldered everything. Grounded it to the engine block. Mounted O2 bung at 3 o'clock. Things are good Stoich FTMFW!

 

Congrats!!

Never seen gauges mounted like that before. Double sided tape, or were you brave enough to screw it in?? I think I see a screw. Pretty unique.

 

Lol. I wanted one of those pillar pods that you guys use but since you drive on the other side of the car, I'd end up with a pillar full of gauges on the passengers side. Not so good.

Just got some 52mm gauge pods and yes - I screwed them in :P

 

I hate to bump this old thread but I found the ignition wire for the 12V+, and it does have 12V+ when the ignition switch is turned on, but it drops down to zero volts when engine turns over-I read that the ideal switch maintains 12V+ even when cranking because the sudden drop and rise in voltage can damage the LC1 circuitry...Is this false and can I safely tap into the wire that I have, or should I just keep looking for a wire that maintains 12V+ even when cranking?

here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1685461

 

If you look at your fuse panel by your left knee, you'll see that you can hook it up to: BATT, IGN, or ACC. Your source (your choice) should be IGN IIRC. Reread the instructions and look for the sentence where they talk about the source and whether it should have power during cranking or not. I forget as it's been 5 years. If the wideband needs power during cranking, then pick a ACC source, if not, then go for an IGN source. Hopefully that makes sense.

Also, see this thread: Key point being be sure to download the instructions from IM's website as it will be the latest and greatest; and follow IM's instructions to the T regarding grounds.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...questions.html

Hopefully this helps.

 

How much do these Widebands go for? I was looking at the AEM UEGO. Anyone has anyone used the AEM and have any comments compared to this one?

 

DUDE, seriously? C-mon man....

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...nd-thread.html

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...ther-info.html

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...atalogger.html

 

Apparently, you spend more time than I do here... Thanks regardless.

 

Not hardly, Im very rarely on these days. Look at your activity vs mine. I do pop in from time to time or when i get notifications about a reply to a subcribed topic.
Just have to do a search, widebands arent newly discussed items.
Takes about the same amount of time to type a topic in the search field as it does to type it in a post and you will get insant results with multiple threads of info.

 

Flava what wire did you end up using for 12v+? (lc-1)

 

Used one of these,

tapped into the ign

 

I could be wrong, but I believe he needs an ACC wire, since it needs power during cranking for correct calibration purposes.

I used the same gizmo too.

 

Wiz, I'm sure your right. It's been a while since ice messed with it, I can look tomorrow though