Another Almost Boosted 3.0
The battery wasn't the problem, that much i know. Had the battery been the problem i would have been got the car started a LONG time ago. That was after a couple of trys the battery started to wear down.
What im thinking is their is something that shorted in the main harness, exactly what has gone wrong i dont know. I got spark the other day after removing the emanage so i was like cool emanage is the problem, moved the tune over to the new emanage, and no changes.
what im going to do and im actually very nervous about doing this because its the DD and i dont want it to have issues is move the PnP harness with the emanage and its ECU over to my DD(95 4th gen) just set it up to work on that car and see if the problem follows its over to the DD or if it works normally.
what im going to do and im actually very nervous about doing this because its the DD and i dont want it to have issues is move the PnP harness with the emanage and its ECU over to my DD(95 4th gen) just set it up to work on that car and see if the problem follows its over to the DD or if it works normally.
Youve checked the crank sensor on the tranny countless times...have you ever looked at the timing teeth and had someone crank the car? Make sure its rotates straight, no missing teeth? Also, one time my tranny bolts started to loosen and there was a tiny crack between my engine and tranny that prevented my car from starting. Pretty extreme case but while youre down there might as well check...right?
Just went through the whole ignition signal thing again and found nothing wrong. All the coils are getting 12Vs, and continuity is there.
Moved the emanage and harness to the DD and it started and ran perfectly fine. So that rules them out.
The only thing i can think of is a possible fuse or relay that blew. because that would explain why the car suddenly stopped that dreadful day.
like i said i have replaced all ignition related sensors so they are all working and fresh. the CKPS usually is the most problematic sensor but i have played with that sensor and jiggled it around and it didnt make a difference.
Aside from the ECCS fuses what other fuses and relays are their that could cause the car to stop working.
Moved the emanage and harness to the DD and it started and ran perfectly fine. So that rules them out.
The only thing i can think of is a possible fuse or relay that blew. because that would explain why the car suddenly stopped that dreadful day.
like i said i have replaced all ignition related sensors so they are all working and fresh. the CKPS usually is the most problematic sensor but i have played with that sensor and jiggled it around and it didnt make a difference.
Aside from the ECCS fuses what other fuses and relays are their that could cause the car to stop working.
Ok anything, anything at all you guys can thing outside of these issues:
Coilpacks
Crank pos/ref&Cam pos sensors they work and have continuity
Grounds
Battery
ECC fuse
Ignition switch
Emanage&harness.
FSM, EC pg 122, i did the whole check on that monday again and got nothing.
Something its stopping the car from running, i know the plugs are not firing, but what is causing them not fire, i dunno.
By the end of this week if that car doesnt start......well, its been nice.
Coilpacks
Crank pos/ref&Cam pos sensors they work and have continuity
Grounds
Battery
ECC fuse
Ignition switch
Emanage&harness.
FSM, EC pg 122, i did the whole check on that monday again and got nothing.
Something its stopping the car from running, i know the plugs are not firing, but what is causing them not fire, i dunno.
By the end of this week if that car doesnt start......well, its been nice.
After that extremely embarrassing episode the car is back to normal, now here is my last question before i wrap this up. My Wideband is working perfectly btw. Z32 Maf. Im taking one last crack at it before i call a quits on it. For people with +97 this problem doesnt apply to you guys, you have map sensors that make adjustments, 95-96 no map the ECU purely works off the maf.
I installed it again, set the rotary switches to 702 the first time started the car. It runs extremely lean at idle and stutters, crackles, pops, and booms when revved. Then changed the switch to 703, same problem. Tried adjusting the parameters on the injectors set them at 260s to 440s and 370s to 440s, nothing has seemed to help. So im wondering is their something im missing in the setup of the emanage?
If i cant figure this out by tuesday then i will just use the stock maf and finalize this project.
I installed it again, set the rotary switches to 702 the first time started the car. It runs extremely lean at idle and stutters, crackles, pops, and booms when revved. Then changed the switch to 703, same problem. Tried adjusting the parameters on the injectors set them at 260s to 440s and 370s to 440s, nothing has seemed to help. So im wondering is their something im missing in the setup of the emanage?
If i cant figure this out by tuesday then i will just use the stock maf and finalize this project.
don't use the global injector scaling!
http://www.3si.org/forum/f103/ultima...thread-297552/
the only thing you should probably experiment with is the Injector Lag time.
b. Global injector sizing - allows you to input the old factory sized injectors and the new injector size. This is the most misused feature and even professional tuners miss because they don't understand the limitation associated. Let me first discuss how it works. Let's take this fictional example. A car with stock 360cc injector @ 100% duty cycle car makes 380HP. Now you upgrade your car with 550cc injectors and only use the global injector feature. Your car will run great as the airflow input at the ECU is not messed with and the ECU does not see any changes. All the changes are done after the ECU. The ultimate takes the duty cycle that would normally go to the fuel injectors, intercepts it, modifies it and then goes to the fuel injector. This is great so far as you have stock timing too but when you run higher boost you run into a problem. The AFR will go nutz (usually very rich) because the stock ECU is transmitting 100% input injector duty cycle to the ultimate. The ultimate is looking for "off periods" to determine the duty cycle and can't find any and can't reduce the injector duty cycle. So what have you accomplished? Nothing, you're still limited to 380HP with the input injector duty cycle @ 100% regardless of what your output injector duty cycle is. I've seen professional tuners not recognizing this and continue to subtract fuel in other parts of the maps in attempts to remedy this limitation and then blame the hardware is no good. It's no wonder people are frusted with the ultimate. So why even use this feature? I can see two reasons. (1) You're a noob to tuning and need the car running right away and will get it tuned by professional later (hopefully by someone who understands the equipment profciently). (2) You purchased grossly oversized fuel injectors for your application. For example, you only needed 550cc injectors but purchased 880cc injectors and now drivability suffers. You're about (880-550) 330cc too big so the global injector sizing can absorb this difference and make your oversized 880cc injectors behave like 550cc in the airflow map. This will give the drivability you need. If you do decide to use the global injector sizing feature, be sure to never let the injector duty cycle to reach 100%. I still get a good laugh every time there's a new firmware release and some people believe this is a bug that never gets addressed. It's not a bug people, you're just misusing it.
http://www.3si.org/forum/f103/ultima...thread-297552/
the only thing you should probably experiment with is the Injector Lag time.
Last edited by McSteve; May 13, 2012 at 05:05 PM.
well after that embarrassing episode with the plugs here is how things stand; aside from running a little lean the car is pretty much back to normal, so im moving into finishing this project. I cant figure out the Z32 maf so **** it, gonna use the stock one. The emanage will make up for its short comings.
Problems left that im going to be addressing, oil leak from the timing cover and one from the turbo return line, PS belt needs to be installed, charge piping is going to be rerouted so it doesnt look so ugly, wires and vac hoses will be moved/redone, get rid of my annoying and leaking 3.5 thermostat and go back to a 3.0 one, and lastly more/redoing the exhuast wrapping. Things im still not sure about:
1st: oil filter relocation. I want to do this primarily to get my oil cooler lines away from the ground. My crossmember sits about 2" and the lines for the oil cooler are also at that magical 2" and to top it off they are rubber. A couple of scraps on the ground and its massive oil leak. 2nd, i have to run the sammich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauge plus the sammich plate for the oil cooler pushing the oil filter even closer to the wheel. I want to use a decent sized filter and with adapters pushing the filter out that car.....makes me alittle nervous, so does anybody have any experiences or suggestions about relocating the oil filter+its sammich plates.
2nd: radiator fans. my ingenius solution of hacking up the stock fans and turning them into pushers well that aint working so well. I have toyed with them pulling the radiator out putting it back in and making more adjustments nothing seems to work they are either hitting the AC condensor or the shroud. i cant really tell what exactly. So im thinking about just picking up 2 14" slim fans and using those instead. So my question is wiring. How can i wire these things with out them throwing a code, that plus i will want MT control over them. Its going to be 2 Godspeed 14" slim fans btw.
Problems left that im going to be addressing, oil leak from the timing cover and one from the turbo return line, PS belt needs to be installed, charge piping is going to be rerouted so it doesnt look so ugly, wires and vac hoses will be moved/redone, get rid of my annoying and leaking 3.5 thermostat and go back to a 3.0 one, and lastly more/redoing the exhuast wrapping. Things im still not sure about:
1st: oil filter relocation. I want to do this primarily to get my oil cooler lines away from the ground. My crossmember sits about 2" and the lines for the oil cooler are also at that magical 2" and to top it off they are rubber. A couple of scraps on the ground and its massive oil leak. 2nd, i have to run the sammich plate for my oil temp and pressure gauge plus the sammich plate for the oil cooler pushing the oil filter even closer to the wheel. I want to use a decent sized filter and with adapters pushing the filter out that car.....makes me alittle nervous, so does anybody have any experiences or suggestions about relocating the oil filter+its sammich plates.
2nd: radiator fans. my ingenius solution of hacking up the stock fans and turning them into pushers well that aint working so well. I have toyed with them pulling the radiator out putting it back in and making more adjustments nothing seems to work they are either hitting the AC condensor or the shroud. i cant really tell what exactly. So im thinking about just picking up 2 14" slim fans and using those instead. So my question is wiring. How can i wire these things with out them throwing a code, that plus i will want MT control over them. Its going to be 2 Godspeed 14" slim fans btw.
Last edited by Crusher103; May 17, 2012 at 09:28 AM.
Update.
Motor has been disassembled and reassembled and im getting ready to throw it back in the car, hopefully for the last time. i still need to re-do the exhuast wrapping on the feedpipe. Broke a couple of things in the process but should be able to fix those minor problems this weekend.
Got a low mileage VLSD transmission, hopefully i will finally have a working VLSD and it will solve that swaying problem i have.
New slim fans are here, looked up the wiring and well its easy the only thing that worries me is which way is pusher and which is puller? Also got a oil filter relocation get so i will get my oil lines away from the ground. Seems easy enough to install.
Biggest development is a finally got some brakes to go with this damn car. The **** i have on there now would have probably had me rear ending somebody driving normally. All its looking well.
Motor has been disassembled and reassembled and im getting ready to throw it back in the car, hopefully for the last time. i still need to re-do the exhuast wrapping on the feedpipe. Broke a couple of things in the process but should be able to fix those minor problems this weekend.
Got a low mileage VLSD transmission, hopefully i will finally have a working VLSD and it will solve that swaying problem i have.
New slim fans are here, looked up the wiring and well its easy the only thing that worries me is which way is pusher and which is puller? Also got a oil filter relocation get so i will get my oil lines away from the ground. Seems easy enough to install.
Biggest development is a finally got some brakes to go with this damn car. The **** i have on there now would have probably had me rear ending somebody driving normally. All its looking well.
You might had a bad ground when it came to no spark. My 04 max at one point after the swap refused to start, it would crank and everything would light up, but threw no spark from any of the coils. Grounded the engine better to the body and the battery; car started up instantly.
Just sayan.
Just sayan.
Last edited by L36; Jun 15, 2012 at 04:55 PM.
Update.
Motor has been disassembled and reassembled and im getting ready to throw it back in the car, hopefully for the last time. i still need to re-do the exhuast wrapping on the feedpipe. Broke a couple of things in the process but should be able to fix those minor problems this weekend.
Got a low mileage VLSD transmission, hopefully i will finally have a working VLSD and it will solve that swaying problem i have.
New slim fans are here, looked up the wiring and well its easy the only thing that worries me is which way is pusher and which is puller? Also got a oil filter relocation get so i will get my oil lines away from the ground. Seems easy enough to install.
Biggest development is a finally got some brakes to go with this damn car. The **** i have on there now would have probably had me rear ending somebody driving normally. All its looking well.
Motor has been disassembled and reassembled and im getting ready to throw it back in the car, hopefully for the last time. i still need to re-do the exhuast wrapping on the feedpipe. Broke a couple of things in the process but should be able to fix those minor problems this weekend.
Got a low mileage VLSD transmission, hopefully i will finally have a working VLSD and it will solve that swaying problem i have.
New slim fans are here, looked up the wiring and well its easy the only thing that worries me is which way is pusher and which is puller? Also got a oil filter relocation get so i will get my oil lines away from the ground. Seems easy enough to install.
Biggest development is a finally got some brakes to go with this damn car. The **** i have on there now would have probably had me rear ending somebody driving normally. All its looking well.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 29
K im back.
Car runs, car drives, but obviously its in need of a tune. here is the issue. All the afrs look spot on for the most part aside from a very lean idle. my car and breaks up sometimes when it is revved, other times it revs smooth, usually if im off and on the gas it will break up. i want to take care of before it hits the dyno. Before i go pay $150 an hr i want to cut out everything that is unnecessary if possible.
Spark plugs are gapped to .035, BKR7Es. A couple of people told me to advance timing. but we are talking about an emanage....
Car runs, car drives, but obviously its in need of a tune. here is the issue. All the afrs look spot on for the most part aside from a very lean idle. my car and breaks up sometimes when it is revved, other times it revs smooth, usually if im off and on the gas it will break up. i want to take care of before it hits the dyno. Before i go pay $150 an hr i want to cut out everything that is unnecessary if possible.
Spark plugs are gapped to .035, BKR7Es. A couple of people told me to advance timing. but we are talking about an emanage....
I checked for vac/boost leaks and im all good there aswell.
Ok guys im back. The car is running pretty steady the only 2 issue im having right now is mostly with the maf before the turbo and the BOV venting into the atmosphere if im not below 2000rpm when i put in the clutch the car dies. I will move it back to a blow through setup.
2nd issue is the Wastegate is not opening, and the car is overboosting until it hits boost cut. Which is set at 12lbs, low boost is only 7psi and thats what im running.
This sat or friday imma be picking up another turbo. My current one is smoking and i just think its time to replace it. So here is the question should i just go for a big turbo or should i stick with something around the size that i have now? At best i have a 57 trim T04E, 450hp turbo with an enormous turbine housing. The Holsets is what im looking at. From what i understand the HX35 is about a 500hp turbo the HX40 is about a 600hp turbo, HX50/52 800hp. So 400whp was pretty much all i wanted out of the car and funnily enough the easiest turbo to find for a good price is the HX52 imagine that. Some moron wanted $800 for a HX40....
Hopefully i can find a HX40 that wont break my ***** to get, if im understanding correctly my current turbonetics exhuast housing will swap onto the holset so i wont have to reweld the downpipe and flange. If I have to change the flange as long as its a V-Band i will be alright. Just because of how easy they are to deal with.
Edit: Wastegate problem has been found it was the Greddy Boost control valve, its either gone bad or the settings in the E-01 are wrong. I hooked the Wastegate up directly to the turbo and i saw a consistent 7.1-7.3lbs, didnt hit boost cut, car pulled nice and strong through the gears.
2nd issue is the Wastegate is not opening, and the car is overboosting until it hits boost cut. Which is set at 12lbs, low boost is only 7psi and thats what im running.
This sat or friday imma be picking up another turbo. My current one is smoking and i just think its time to replace it. So here is the question should i just go for a big turbo or should i stick with something around the size that i have now? At best i have a 57 trim T04E, 450hp turbo with an enormous turbine housing. The Holsets is what im looking at. From what i understand the HX35 is about a 500hp turbo the HX40 is about a 600hp turbo, HX50/52 800hp. So 400whp was pretty much all i wanted out of the car and funnily enough the easiest turbo to find for a good price is the HX52 imagine that. Some moron wanted $800 for a HX40....
Hopefully i can find a HX40 that wont break my ***** to get, if im understanding correctly my current turbonetics exhuast housing will swap onto the holset so i wont have to reweld the downpipe and flange. If I have to change the flange as long as its a V-Band i will be alright. Just because of how easy they are to deal with.
Edit: Wastegate problem has been found it was the Greddy Boost control valve, its either gone bad or the settings in the E-01 are wrong. I hooked the Wastegate up directly to the turbo and i saw a consistent 7.1-7.3lbs, didnt hit boost cut, car pulled nice and strong through the gears.
Last edited by Crusher103; Mar 10, 2013 at 02:37 PM.
To fix the stalling you need to go into parameters and check the antistall setting box. Check what your maf voltage reads at idle when the car is warm. Then you input that voltage value in the boxes. If it stalls, slightly increase the clamp voltage. If that doesn't work out you can go to blow through but that should work. On the blow through if you have a stock maf you can clamp the voltage so it doesn't max out and use the pressure sensor for some adjustments.
Oh got some news on spool times, full boost arrives at 3000rpm with this setup vs 3700rpm with the other one.
Thats what im most scared of because im scoping a Garrett GT40 and another GT42 right now, and yea those are just bigger, they just are. But when i think about it if you see how high my IM sits in comparison its like thats not even an issue i have managed to fit a strut bar over the top of it.
Oh got some news on spool times, full boost arrives at 3000rpm with this setup vs 3700rpm with the other one.
Oh got some news on spool times, full boost arrives at 3000rpm with this setup vs 3700rpm with the other one.
also my buddy for a forward feedpipe and a bb gt40 on a dek swapped 4gen makes full boost around 4k and ran 12.8 @ 115
And got word this turbo is actually a 60trim BB TO4E so i have 3 seperate turbine wheel size if i want to keep using this exhuast housing 62, 65, 68mm. i might have to take the turbo off to measure the turbine wheel. Not looking foward to that.