New turbo ordered today, Its a large frame Garrett GT42, the compressor wheel is a 64mm, so its not "massive" in terms of normal sized GT42s but it will still output some serious power if pushed, it came off a diesel volvo. If im understanding correctly its specs are very similar to the GT4288, it might end up being too big but its going to be interesting. Similar sized turbos on supras have been putting out in the mid 500-600whp 14~18lbs. im probably going to be 1/2 of that.

Goals for the car is still an effortless 400whp. I dont plan on pushing any limits.

 

Stalling issue persists. If its above 2000rpm the car stalls when the clutch is put in a raised all the values in the antistall same thing happens. Could it be i just need to move the MAF so the BOV is before it and not after. That way this issue will go away. When it was there before i didnt have any issues with stalling. New Turbo should be here today from what the tracking number said.

And this turbonetics smokes. Looks like im pulling a James bond sometimes.

 

Just move the maf or vent the bov back into the intake

 

The other car vented back into the intake it stalled too. I'll just move the MAF.

 

New turbo just got here and it is HUGE, although i think its more the housings because the turbine wheel on this thing is not much if any bigger than the current turbo so im not freaking out but the compressor side.....thats a couple of mm bigger, so new housings both on the hot and cold side are most likely going to be needed. VERY LITTLE play no back and forth play only slight side to side.

I cant find the A/R on the exhuast housing but any fool can tell its too big. Its .72 A/R on the cold side its a 4" in, 2.5" out. Housing is a T4 in, 3" unknown on the exit something with 6 bolts, that are actually studs on the housing , as stated before 64mm cold on da, 68mm hot on da hot. Im not sure right now if my old turbonetics housing will fit on this turbo, this new one has a Vband style clamp(im not sure if its actually called a V band, slightly turbo illiterate). My turbonetics has bolts on so i dont know if it will be able to fit or not. The turbine wheels are the same size on both turbos so right now its a question if the housing will mate or will i have to buy a new hot side aswell.

1st order of business get this turbo rebuilt.

 

that thing is going to spool alot slower

 

That i do understand. My intention with this car was to be a highway/dyno/showoff queen. Otherwise i would have bought a smaller turbo and i was seeing plenty of them or just rebuild this one.

But the exact model turbo is a GT4288N, its big(plus i have always said when i boost my car i will do it with a GT42 ). If what i have researched turns out to be true been searching supra forums to find out their results, this size turbo will works great on their cars stock block, of course on a FWD maxima its not going to be perfectly ideal, but then modding these cars isnt ideal period. Thats why i just pulled the trigger on it vs a Holset WH1E that would have been ideal for this car.

That's my excuse, to buying a big azz turbo , So i got it, now to make it work. And if it just doesnt i'll try something else and secretly build a 3.5......, My main concern right now is what A/R should i run on this turbo, my current one is a T4 .81 thats just if it will fit. And if it works, Great. But knowing my luck....yea. So i should plan on going smaller.

 

Are you running an oil restrictor? If not you may need to, the turbo is either getting too much oil or not draining properly.

 

YES, im going to buy one as soon as i can, i just need to find out how big of a restrictor i need for a journal bearing Garrett.

But this turbonetics its whole life i dont know if it ever had an oil restrictor on it, right now i know it doesnt, when i was driving the other car it didnt, for how long i dont know but it started smoking on the other car. I thought it was pulling oil back through the intake and it actually was the turbo smoking. The damage has been done already, i could but a restrictor on it now but i dont think it will help much. The turbo is old and needs a rebuild which im not willing to cough up the money to rebuild this BB turbonetics.

 

oh today was a fun day.

Cliffs before i start:

My exhaust was ripped off
Car breaks up now in all gears.
I think i broke my hand.

Ok will here is what is going on. So the car ahs been running decent for the past couple of weeks etc. The other day i moved my MAF i think i documented that, now it is directly infront of the TB NO MORE STALLING ....or so i thought.

But today i decided i was going to drive my car to class and back its been acting a little funny the past couple of days now i think its heat because it does not start to act up until it warms up but here is the thing im not driving the car hard, if it cannot take this by the time the summer rolls around this car will not even be drivable period. But in 1st gear in bucks and stutters and misfires terribly. Like its fcuken silly. At first i thought it was fuel, maybe the fuel pump strainer, I was low on fuel so i added some gas got a half tank in the car. Still terrible. The car will die aswell when im trying to pull off from a light, just out of nowhere it dies. Will not restart for about 10-15 seconds. Then it starts and acts the same way. Also something else thats strange which is making me think its a safe guard killing the car. If it dies on me and it was rolling foward if i pop the clutch to try and fire it back up its dead like nothing. You will hear the cylinders moving but its dead wont respond to the accelerator/clutch at all.

CEL is on and the code it threw was a Closed loop control???? and also the right bank O2 sensor it said is bad. Now the problem i have with this is i know those o2 sensors i bought right before my car went down for its first motor swap, they havent been used more than 4kmiles, for one to go bad.....even though they are 4yrs old?

Another thing that makes me wonder is this car will say the CKPS is bad, so i change it then the crank ref is bad, so i change it then the cam sensor is bad then i change it then it starts over and says the CKPS is bad again. So what i did was i took all the sensors (aside from the CKPS) and threw them on my DD to see if it would eventually throw the same code......and it doesnt.

i have also seen a knock sensor code and it was using a brand new knock sensor so i just put another one from the old turbo car on it and it hasnt come back since. I havent checked the status of my plugs i probably should. But my question is, what would cause this kind of behavior? It has to be a sensor based, but one o2 sensor? im going to change it regardless but doesnt anybody know what else it could be?

So all this happened and since the car was so busy stuttering and hesitating in the driveway i couldnt get over where the sidewalk is in my driveway when i finally did it ripped the exhaust right off my down pipe. So i got so mad i punched a brick wall, my hand is been killing me ever since.

 

what was your a/f during all this

 

Its erratic jumps between 14.5-7 to 16s-17s.

 

Could be bad plugs since you haven't checked them in awhile. If problems still occur after you change and properly gap the plugs, then the next possibility would be the wiring to the ecu or the ecu itself. Make sure all your wiring from the emanage to the ecu is secure (nothing shorting out and good soldered connections).

 

Oh man, that totally blows. I wish you were closer to NY, I'd come by give you a hand (pun intended) with the car the weather is finally getting better

 

Well i changed my spark plugs, and the bad 02 sensor, reset the ECU and same thing still happens. i have yet to check the emanage but thats what i will do next. I forgot to check the CKPS while i was down there but i will do that aswell.

The plug fortunately looked decent they had a redish brown color to them the. There was some slightly white spots at the tip of the plug but i believe that is normal, BKR6Es were all this car needed, i had BKR7Es and they just were black as if the car had been running way too rich every time i pulled them.

 

ok well i Moved&changed my maf to back outside the charged system car runns A LOT better, problem solved right? WRONG.

Still hesistates and bullsh1ts, So for those of you that dont know i work at autozone and i drove my car to work luckily when i got to work it started throwing codes. So here is what it threw today and these are things i just addressed:

Cam position
Crank Ref
BOTH 02 sensors.

Im thinking ECU is bad. I'll try my stock ECU tomorrow.

 

Get a gallon of gas. I've got the matches

 

I would disconnect the EU and see how the car runs

 

Thats another idea. I should try.


But anyway here is the news. My key broke off in my door, and it was my only key leaving me stranded at hardees, in my efforts to get it restarted with out the key the ignition got messed up so that has to be replaced, and when i slammed one of my doors out of frustration the glass popped of the rail so the window will not roll back up

Luckily infiniti could still cut a new key for me so i got another one but its the second key that has broken OUTSIDE the ignition making me wonder if i should have another ignition matched to this key or get a separate key for the doors/trunk/glove box and one for the ignition, It will probably be cheaper this way too. Also to fish that key out of my driver side door

 

 

Man just burn it, you the worst luck ever

 

I should burn it. The car has too much damn sentimental value know and the bad part is it knows it, the damn car acts like a woman.

Anyway it was my window regulator that took a **** and broke so i already bought a new one and installed it, down an extra $36, the new ignition key&steering lock is $90, and the replacement key from infiniti was $22 so all in all this key is going to cost me about $150 that not even including getting it out of the door.

But the car did not fail mechanically. But hopefully the sensors and other parts get here today. So thats 2 new O2 sensor, cam pos sensor, crank ref. if i replace all of those sensors and this car still acts funny......

 

Something else i dont think i mentioned in this thread. The new turbo that giant 64mm GT4288 is physically too big to fit in the space i have. One of the coolant temp sensor thats in the way. The compressor housing is to big. So i have to come back down to reality and buy something more appropriate.

So hunting again for a turbo. The original plan was to buy a holset, HX40 or H1E. If i can find a decent priced HX40 since it uses the same CHRA pattern as my old Turbonetics, so the housing will fit on it with a little machining i hope so i dont have to change the downpipe. The only problem i have is i wanted atleast a 60mm turbo the HX40 is a 58mm, pretty much the same as my T04E, i did want a bigger turbo.

I have also looked at another Garrett, the GT4082(7.3 powerstroke turbo), but the downpipe will have to change. I dont believe this Garrett out flows the HX40 so it may not be worth the effort over getting the holset. Also the GT3782 off the 6.0 but im also reading that unless the thrust bearing is upgraded on this turbo then its not very reliable in gas application with our higher temps. Ive always wanted a Garrett thats why im so dead set on buying&using one.

 

well good news because i caught it them before it became a problem

The wastegate is melting some of the wires that are close to it now moving this wires is kinda out of the question because they are sensors next to it. So i need to find a way to shield it from the heat of the wastegate.

Second thing i caught today was my oil cooler line let go. So another thing im glad i caught. So gotta re-run those lines. Need to find space to do it thou, im thinking directly beneath the oil pan, hug them against the pan.

New sensors are on and the car seems to be doing good with them i havent taken it on to the road mainly because my oil cooler line was pissing. It was idling very rich before i changed them now its back to normal.

 

from what I remember your car is too low to put anything under the oil pan

 

glad to hear it's running better

 

I dont think i have much of a choice. I wish i could flip the sandwich plate for the oil cooler the other way round but it would be hitting the belts and the belts were part of the line letting go today.

my car is finger gap all the way around so its not TOO low, I raised the car up it was tucking but those axles....yea just those axles when you see them you cringe. Im telling you this idea of being low....sounds good, looks good, but in practice.

My main concern is the Wastegate causing issues. Im wondering if its safe to wrap it.

 

did you ever make a dump tube

 

Yezzir. Its a little rachet not really the way i want my dumptube to look but it gets the job done.

The problem is the actual wastegate sits to close to the coolant temp sensor So i have to insulate the wastegate, the wires itself will not be enough because the actually connectors are starting to feel the heat too.

 

Or a heat shield

 

yea thats another option that i will have to look into.

I put some header wrap around the lower portion of the wastegate. I'll try and that and if it causes problem with the WG then i will try something else, possibily a heat shield and ceramic wrap or the WG just has to be relocated.

The car is currently sitting outside getting up to temp im going to take it for a drive today to class and back see how its doing.


Edit: scratch driving it, it drives fine, but the way it was smoking, this turbo is just....no. Wasnt even pulling the way it usually does. So i will get another turbo, install, then head to the dyno.

 

Can the turbo be rebuilt

 

Its a ball bearing turbo, so maybe. But for the most part they are going to be saying you need a new chra. The turbo has a slight amount of play in it.

I tried to make a vid of how its behaving. The vid sucks so i wont uploaded but from 30-60mph, it use to be quite quick, now its took it about 5-6 sec to get to 60. Im sure its a combination of that plus the tune.

I'll try one more time to get a vid of it, but holding the phone plus working the shifter and the suspension add the fact the camera on my phone sucks yea....

 

Here is the car driving around at :40 there is a hesitation as i shift into second i do a pull then going into 3rd there is another hesitation. After the pull im trying to provoke the car into hesitating with out shifting but i cant get it too. The car is soo raspy you cant really hear the hesitation but its there:


The car really moves once its in the higher rpms +5800 its like timing changes and it moves. In the tune that's where there is minimal adjustment for fuel and timing, I havent touched outside of scaling the injectors because to be honest i wouldnt have a clue what i was doing.

 

For some reason I get hesitation like that sometimes also. It might just be that moment after the shift when the injectors dump a bunch of fuel and it doesn't ignite properly. P.m me and I can give you my email, send me the file and I can look at the map.

 

I know whats wrong you don't have a cel light on, lol

 

The thing about it is, sometimes it does that hesitation at random between 2-3K It never does that in the high rpm more just some burps in power most likely just the tune.

But yea i'll send it too you. I gotta log on through my laptop where the tune is thou.

it seems customary for boosted maximas.

 

What's your a/f between 2-3k maybe it's super rich

 

well i have been not working on my car for the past 2-3 weeks, wasnt till kev asked me whats going on with it in another thread that i even thought about it But i found this thread which i should have searched sooner and it might be why i was having issues with the hesitation and bucking:

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...g-bucking.html

Coilpacks. Plugs are brand new like i replaced them then put a total of 20miles on them so they shouldnt be the problem. It just awkward it only happens when the car gets up to temperature.....although with any electrical stuff in the car thats when all the **** starts.

The car did throw some codes after i put the new sensors on, i didnt check them and unfortunately my battery went dead before i could, mostly because i wasn't driving the thing. I got another battery so im about to start it up and see how it is doing.

 

ok well i tested some of my coilpacks they all came out good, changed the front 3 anyway, then i read the codes that the car threw again.

0101-Camshaft position sensor(new)
0304-Knock sensor(new)
0905-Crankshaft position sensor(tested fine)

......all of these are ignition&timing related sensors and i do have the ignition BS on the emanage turned on, so im thinking its the interference caused by the emanage. So im going to turn off ignition adjustment and see what happens. My next theory on what is going on is something i dont even want to begin to do. Skipped tooth, timing chain issues unless there is an easy fix this motor goes bye-bye. Getting GOOD 3.5.

Edit: turned off ingnition adjustment, no change. Its progressively getting worse and the AFRs are now erratic.