5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
05-29-2015, 06:09 PM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Mapleton UT
Posts: 17
Metal shavings definitely not good. That engine is on its way to the great junkyard in the sky. Sorry to hear they.
Miscellaneous comments. But they all kind of relate to the fact that you are willing to work on your car. Your response to the compression check makes me think otherwise.
You can buy a decent, basic compression tester for like $25. So taking the car to a mechanic won't not be necessary and also a lot less expensive.
Depending on how much you like the car and how much money you are willing to spend, you can get an entire used engine for $500 - 600. That's just the engine. It needs to be installed. A mechanic shop will charge a lot, probably at least as much as the engine, probably more.
Miscellaneous comments. But they all kind of relate to the fact that you are willing to work on your car. Your response to the compression check makes me think otherwise.
You can buy a decent, basic compression tester for like $25. So taking the car to a mechanic won't not be necessary and also a lot less expensive.
Depending on how much you like the car and how much money you are willing to spend, you can get an entire used engine for $500 - 600. That's just the engine. It needs to be installed. A mechanic shop will charge a lot, probably at least as much as the engine, probably more.
05-31-2015, 04:36 AM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: ARIZONA
Posts: 16
Is consultii idle relearn mandatory after ecm, tps, iac replace?
Hi guys Im new to the group, I often browsed and seen alot of great helpful hints and tips that have helped me out here so thanks much for that. So heres my story...01 MAXIMA A/T... several years ago I got the dreaded P0505 error. I replaced the IAC from pep boys and there was no change at the time. Car ran descent but needed a lil gas to get her goin in the morn but drove great once warmed up. I had passed emissions as the CEL had been intermitant. So Id rush to the inspection station before it came back on and pass. But now its constant. So I sent out ECM for repair and bench test, warranteed out IAC for new one, purchased OEM TPS, disabled the motor mounts by unplug at harness. So I removed and cleaned throttle body (bare), installed the new IAC, installed and calibrated TPS, installed reworked ECM, did the manual relearn process (not consultII). The car runs great now, idles at about 9 and drops to about 7 in drive which I know is a lil off but starts right up, I hear the IAC kick in on start then die down after warmed up, IAC steps up idle to keep level rpm as AC being turned on. Drives great, great throttle response, no bog, no surge, but that damn CEL light keeps comin on P0505. I called the ECM guys and they said they bench test the ECM and have done thousands, they have like a 99.5% rep as well so I believe them at least a lil, they tell me that I should of used new OEM IAC and that aftermarket IACs have a bad rep for creating issues like mine. What do you guys think? Is a nissan consult II relearn the missing piece? Should I get the Hitachi IAC? For the relearn I disconnected battery for hour or so then did the process of on/off then run and disco/reconnect TPS within 5 sec, but I read it could take up to 24 hours to erase the stored learned idle data? Does that sound right? Any help is greatly appreciated, at this point I wouldnt mind shootin anybody who helps me resolve this issue some bread via Paypal, Im at a loss, Thanks guys
05-31-2015, 09:42 AM
Hi guys Im new to the group, I often browsed and seen alot of great helpful hints and tips that have helped me out here so thanks much for that. So heres my story...01 MAXIMA A/T... several years ago I got the dreaded P0505 error. I replaced the IAC from pep boys and there was no change at the time. Car ran descent but needed a lil gas to get her goin in the morn but drove great once warmed up. I had passed emissions as the CEL had been intermitant. So Id rush to the inspection station before it came back on and pass. But now its constant. So I sent out ECM for repair and bench test, warranteed out IAC for new one, purchased OEM TPS, disabled the motor mounts by unplug at harness. So I removed and cleaned throttle body (bare), installed the new IAC, installed and calibrated TPS, installed reworked ECM, did the manual relearn process (not consultII). The car runs great now, idles at about 9 and drops to about 7 in drive which I know is a lil off but starts right up, I hear the IAC kick in on start then die down after warmed up, IAC steps up idle to keep level rpm as AC being turned on. Drives great, great throttle response, no bog, no surge, but that damn CEL light keeps comin on P0505. I called the ECM guys and they said they bench test the ECM and have done thousands, they have like a 99.5% rep as well so I believe them at least a lil, they tell me that I should of used new OEM IAC and that aftermarket IACs have a bad rep for creating issues like mine. What do you guys think? Is a nissan consult II relearn the missing piece? Should I get the Hitachi IAC? For the relearn I disconnected battery for hour or so then did the process of on/off then run and disco/reconnect TPS within 5 sec, but I read it could take up to 24 hours to erase the stored learned idle data? Does that sound right? Any help is greatly appreciated, at this point I wouldnt mind shootin anybody who helps me resolve this issue some bread via Paypal, Im at a loss, Thanks guys
Drive cycles are not time related. Drive cycles are patterns of acceleration, top speed and other "why the hell do they want this?" things. So the way you drive sort of determines the time involved.
The only way to get the check engine light off quickly is to hook up an OBD code reader that has the code reset capabilities. The cheap ones (like $15) don't do this. If you clear the codes and the check engine light comes right back on, the problem is not fixed.
05-31-2015, 04:11 PM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: ARIZONA
Posts: 16
Most codes that cause the check engine light to turn on (and not all codes do) do not disappear when you repair the problem. It takes several "drive cycles" for the code to go away and allow the check engine light to go off.
Drive cycles are not time related. Drive cycles are patterns of acceleration, top speed and other "why the hell do they want this?" things. So the way you drive sort of determines the time involved.
The only way to get the check engine light off quickly is to hook up an OBD code reader that has the code reset capabilities. The cheap ones (like $15) don't do this. If you clear the codes and the check engine light comes right back on, the problem is not fixed.
Drive cycles are not time related. Drive cycles are patterns of acceleration, top speed and other "why the hell do they want this?" things. So the way you drive sort of determines the time involved.
The only way to get the check engine light off quickly is to hook up an OBD code reader that has the code reset capabilities. The cheap ones (like $15) don't do this. If you clear the codes and the check engine light comes right back on, the problem is not fixed.
05-31-2015, 04:27 PM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: ARIZONA
Posts: 16
thank you, I was kinda wondering that, like I got no tags now and have already got the 30 day and it expired also, was thinking getting waiver to buy time, so allowing drive cycle to complete has been tough, and that was a question I had, I had seen where people said they got a code after a repair again but went away shortly thereafter, and Im working on cars here and there occassionally so might not be a bad investment, thanks
Last edited by JUSTRIGIT; 05-31-2015 at 04:30 PM.
05-31-2015, 06:44 PM
Have a question about scanner, if I reset the code with the scanner after repair is the car considered ready for emissions test? like will it tell me system ready for test ? or does it still require the drive cycle to be completed? I take it I need to complete drive cycle then clear codes if any as Im working on it, if they pop up it will be right away so I know I need to keep tryin to fix, but say it doesnt pop up the code after reset right away am I good to go to inspection? Sorry for dumb questions, Ive never used a scanner, I usually have people get reading at autozone then I fix suspected issue and been pretty lucky so far with no returning CEL
You can reset the check engine light and it will remain off as long as the problem has been fixed, but the systems will report not ready. If it is drive cycles that will get the systems ready, most people will usually satisfy that requirement in 3 - 4 days, assuming the car is driven every day.
06-01-2015, 07:56 AM
Join Date: May 2015
Location: ARIZONA
Posts: 16
If you clear a code and the check engine light is off, you can still fail an emissions test in some areas. That is because the ECU will report that systems are not ready. I don't know if this applies to all the codes or not. And I don't know exactly what has to happen for the systems to come ready. It may be the drive cycles, but again, I don't know.
You can reset the check engine light and it will remain off as long as the problem has been fixed, but the systems will report not ready. If it is drive cycles that will get the systems ready, most people will usually satisfy that requirement in 3 - 4 days, assuming the car is driven every day.
You can reset the check engine light and it will remain off as long as the problem has been fixed, but the systems will report not ready. If it is drive cycles that will get the systems ready, most people will usually satisfy that requirement in 3 - 4 days, assuming the car is driven every day.
Last edited by JUSTRIGIT; 06-01-2015 at 08:01 AM.
06-01-2015, 09:51 AM
Thanks for clearing that up, yes systems ready is requirement and I guess when you clear the code it resets readiness, so can be helpful if you know when system ready and light is out or how long in between if tryin to get by, so the scanner is a must have, Im pickin one up, they arent to bad off EBAY, gonna go with OEM IAC and send ECU out for bench test, hope for the best, I ran smoke thru the intake and found no leaks so that was good news, thanks and any other suggestions or advise is welcome no matter how far fetched my ears are open guys, I also checked for voltage at IAC and TPS, also for obvious sogns of burnt wires at connectors or near, I would like details as to how to thoroughly check the wires to and from IAC, if any one can help or post a good link it would be greatly appreciated
codes are in EC section, search p0505 and it you should be able to find the diagnostic section. i think what you're doing is right, oem iacv, repair ecu, reset codes and go from there.
if the code keeps coming back after that, follow the FSM diagnostic. it does gives another source for the code (iirc air control valve-power steering or something similar), but from what i've read on here it's pretty uncommon.
06-01-2015, 10:07 AM
Thanks for clearing that up, yes systems ready is requirement and I guess when you clear the code it resets readiness, so can be helpful if you know when system ready and light is out or how long in between if tryin to get by, so the scanner is a must have, Im pickin one up, they arent to bad off EBAY, gonna go with OEM IAC and send ECU out for bench test, hope for the best, I ran smoke thru the intake and found no leaks so that was good news, thanks and any other suggestions or advise is welcome no matter how far fetched my ears are open guys, I also checked for voltage at IAC and TPS, also for obvious sogns of burnt wires at connectors or near, I would like details as to how to thoroughly check the wires to and from IAC, if any one can help or post a good link it would be greatly appreciated
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-seconds.html
Here is another link to another thread about replacing the IACV. Give it a read and see if you somehow missed something.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...placement.html
06-06-2015, 02:25 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
Please help
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that will not start. No lights come on when you turn the key and there is a white box under the steering wheel/ console that clicks rapidly when you take the key out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key either. We just had to replace the fusible link that's connected to the battery. If it helps, when we had the car towed home it would not even let us move the gear shifter to neutral. Had to use the neutral safety switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to wokr in a couple days and start school in a couple weeks, I need my car to run!
Update: The white box is for the key less entry system. According to searching for the model number on the box. KBRASTU10
Update: The white box is for the key less entry system. According to searching for the model number on the box. KBRASTU10
Last edited by wifey4511; 06-06-2015 at 02:31 PM.
06-06-2015, 05:33 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that will not start. No lights come on when you turn the key and there is a white box under the steering wheel/ console that clicks rapidly when you take the key out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key either. We just had to replace the fusible link that's connected to the battery. If it helps, when we had the car towed home it would not even let us move the gear shifter to neutral. Had to use the neutral safety switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to wokr in a couple days and start school in a couple weeks, I need my car to run!
Update: The white box is for the key less entry system. According to searching for the model number on the box. KBRASTU10
Update: The white box is for the key less entry system. According to searching for the model number on the box. KBRASTU10
06-06-2015, 07:33 PM
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima that will not start. No lights come on when you turn the key and there is a white box under the steering wheel/ console that clicks rapidly when you take the key out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key either. We just had to replace the fusible link that's connected to the battery. If it helps, when we had the car towed home it would not even let us move the gear shifter to neutral. Had to use the neutral safety switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to wokr in a couple days and start school in a couple weeks, I need my car to run!
I agree with maxiiiboy that you should get the lights in the instrument cluster to come on when you turn the ignition key on if every thing was OK. You may have some more fuses blown. Under the hood by the battery is another fuse box. One of those fuses has the label "FL40A IGN SW". It is a 40 amp fusible link that supplies power to the ignition switch, which then goes to a lot of things like the dash lights, fuel pump, shift lever lock and more. Check all the fuses and fusible links in that fuse box. And like maxiiiboy said, make sure the cattery is good/charged.
The SECU controls the windows, door locks, alarm, interior lights and a few other things. I don't know if this would keep you from starting the car, but I think the lack of dash lights says you have a fuse/power problem.
06-06-2015, 07:43 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
I'm taking the battery to get checked in the morning. I'm hoping that's not the problem since it's only a couple months old. Thanks for the tip on the other fusible link, I'll check that in the morning too. As for the one attached to the battery. I have no idea why it blew. The car was fine Thursday morning and afternoon but when my husband went to drive it home from work was the problem. His boss tried to charge the battery for like 20 minutes but no power would get to the car (using jumper cables). Tried again today but it still wouldn't work.
06-06-2015, 08:03 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
This does not make sense. What does "no power would get to the car" mean, exactly? Is it possible that, when trying to jump-start the car, they made a silly error, such as reversing the polarity? At any rate, all this is water under the bridge ..... but the jumper cable thing is your major clue.
06-11-2015, 10:00 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
This does not make sense. What does "no power would get to the car" mean, exactly? Is it possible that, when trying to jump-start the car, they made a silly error, such as reversing the polarity? At any rate, all this is water under the bridge ..... but the jumper cable thing is your major clue.
06-12-2015, 08:23 PM
06-13-2015, 12:10 PM
06-14-2015, 08:06 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 3
self inflicted wiring problem
Hey fellow Maxima owners,
We just joined the party with a 02 SE. Nice car for the $ we paid, and only 128000 miles. Funny story....
So I was replacing the passenger mirror with a junkyard swap, and due to my horrible luck and possibly a lack of skill, I managed to dislodge the individual wired pins that plug into the power lock/window module (PLWM). Not sure exactly how, but it happened without damaging the white plastic clips that make up the forward plug. I re-installed them in the order I thought they went (looking at the twist of the wires, and contact marks on the male pins in the PLWM). Mini fire-works ensued when I plugged it into the PLWM, and had to make another trip to the junkyard.
QUESTION - anyone know of the correct wiring sequence for the forward 4-pin connector? If anyone could take a pic, removal is this easy....
(PS - It HAS to be the 02 SE - the 01 and 03 are completely different. I checked.)
Remove plastic cover, phillips screw and pull out handhold...
Hook the right snap-connector with index, pull in and up to release. Push cover to the right and pull up gently and left side should disconnect...
Lift rear up (
) and slide assembly to the back of the door...
PLEASE take a picture of this little bugger and post it. THANKS in advance!
I did check the DSM for my year, but my wiring comprehension is a little lacking, and it seems they assume you didn't screw with the order of wires IN the connectors. Haynes manual was...the most expensive TP I've ever bought. It sucks. Again, appreciate everyone's time and experience!
Dan
We just joined the party with a 02 SE. Nice car for the $ we paid, and only 128000 miles. Funny story....
So I was replacing the passenger mirror with a junkyard swap, and due to my horrible luck and possibly a lack of skill, I managed to dislodge the individual wired pins that plug into the power lock/window module (PLWM). Not sure exactly how, but it happened without damaging the white plastic clips that make up the forward plug. I re-installed them in the order I thought they went (looking at the twist of the wires, and contact marks on the male pins in the PLWM). Mini fire-works ensued when I plugged it into the PLWM, and had to make another trip to the junkyard.
QUESTION - anyone know of the correct wiring sequence for the forward 4-pin connector? If anyone could take a pic, removal is this easy....
(PS - It HAS to be the 02 SE - the 01 and 03 are completely different. I checked.)
Remove plastic cover, phillips screw and pull out handhold...
Hook the right snap-connector with index, pull in and up to release. Push cover to the right and pull up gently and left side should disconnect...
Lift rear up (
) and slide assembly to the back of the door...
PLEASE take a picture of this little bugger and post it. THANKS in advance!
I did check the DSM for my year, but my wiring comprehension is a little lacking, and it seems they assume you didn't screw with the order of wires IN the connectors. Haynes manual was...the most expensive TP I've ever bought. It sucks. Again, appreciate everyone's time and experience!
Dan
06-15-2015, 01:48 PM
I don't have a 2002 but I looked in the Nissan service manual.
What it appears is that you have the wires in the correct sequence but reversed from top to bottom. Using your bottom (4th) photo, the black wire that is at the top, should be on the bottom of the group. It should be green wire on the top, then the blue wire, the white/red, the black wire and an empty hole.
You can download the Nissan factory service manual (FSM) in .pdf format from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/
The connector in question (connector # D33) is in the electrical section on page 254 (EL-254):
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf
If the above website is slow loading, an alternative web site is:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2002/
What it appears is that you have the wires in the correct sequence but reversed from top to bottom. Using your bottom (4th) photo, the black wire that is at the top, should be on the bottom of the group. It should be green wire on the top, then the blue wire, the white/red, the black wire and an empty hole.
Code:
┌───┬───┐ │ │ │ │ 4 │ │ PIN 4 = GREEN (to motor) │ │ │ ├───┼───┤ │ │ │ │ 5 │ │ PIN 5 = BLUE (to motor) │ │ K │ ├───┤ E │ │ │ Y │ │ 6 │ │ PIN 6 = WHITE/RED STRIPE (12 volts) │ │ │ ├───┼───┤ │ │ │ │ 7 │ │ PIN 7 = BLACK (ground) │ │ │ ├───┼───┤ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └───┴───┘
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/
The connector in question (connector # D33) is in the electrical section on page 254 (EL-254):
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf
If the above website is slow loading, an alternative web site is:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2002/
Last edited by DennisMik; 06-15-2015 at 01:54 PM.
06-18-2015, 06:15 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 8
Rough Idling
Hi guys! I'm new here but I've had my 2001 Maxima GLE for about a year now. Up until now it has been a perfect car for me. 
Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were. 
So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were. So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
06-19-2015, 05:10 AM
Hi guys! I'm new here but I've had my 2001 Maxima GLE for about a year now. Up until now it has been a perfect car for me. Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were.
So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were. So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
i suspect your aftermarket iac might be the issue as they are known to be problematic. however i am unfamiliar with what adjustments are required when installing a new tps so maybe start with the tps and go from there. go here to get the fsm for your year if you haven't already: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
06-19-2015, 11:04 AM
Hi guys! I'm new here but I've had my 2001 Maxima GLE for about a year now. Up until now it has been a perfect car for me. Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were.
So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
Anyway, things started going downhill when my max would start but just die, but only sometimes. I took it to a shop and the mechanic said he just unplugged a few things and cleaned them and it seemed to run fine. It drove home perfectly but after I let it sit for a few hours it was back. He said he cleared two codes but he didn't tell me what they were. So after some research on this extremely helpful forum, I decided that it was probably P0505 but the CEL didn't come back on ever since. I checked my ECU for burns and it checked out okay (it was remanufactured so I don't know if it's one of those "updated" ECU's). I looked all over the internet and some of my coworkers said it could either be the Idle Air Control Valve, MAF, or TPS so I decided to replace all three. The MAF and TPS are OEM but I had to get the IAC aftermarket as I didn't have enough money to get the OEM part. So after I switched out those parts the car stays running all the time but now it idles very rough. It seems to fluctuate between 500-1000 but sometimes it goes down to 0 and picks itself back up somehow. There also is now a loud hissing noise near the throttle body area and it sounds like it's coming from the IAC.
After more research I am finding that you should have adjusted the TPS or something with a multimeter (which I don't have yet) and you shouldn't have manually moved the flap inside the throttle body (I am 19 and was curious of what it looked like lol). Is there anyone that can give me a suggestion of where to head next? I tried the Idle Air Volume Relearn procedure once but it didn't stick as the engine fluctuates and sputters while I am doing it.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long story.
06-19-2015, 07:28 PM
5th gen mod question
Okay so I just recently installed a injen cold air intake (my first mod) and every body I knows has their input on what exhaust and type of pipe I should install but I would rather ask 5th gen owners like myself. So can anyone give me suggestions?
06-24-2015, 06:29 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 11
Engine stuttering p0420
I've had the p0420 code forever but with smog testing coming up decided to put in an o2 spacer. After resetting the code I've been trying to do the drive cycle to get the car ready for testing.
Today on the freeway car was driving great, went about 5-7 minutes, got off then back on the freeway the other direction.
Car accelerated fine, then at cruising (about 60) the car started struggling, the car still kept at speed but it felt like the car was going to die.
Got off freeway, drove surface streets back home and the car seemed to be absolutely fine. This isn't the first time this has happened, and it really only occasionally happens on the freeway.
Could an occasional problem like this stem from a bad pre-cat? It's just so strange that it only happens occasionally in certain circumstances. I'm at my wits end with this. I'm thinking about gutting the back pre-cat since I'm getting the p0420 and I do get occasional rattling when backing off acceleration in the 20-40 mph range.
What else could this be?
p.s. this is a 2002 Maxima
Today on the freeway car was driving great, went about 5-7 minutes, got off then back on the freeway the other direction.
Car accelerated fine, then at cruising (about 60) the car started struggling, the car still kept at speed but it felt like the car was going to die.
Got off freeway, drove surface streets back home and the car seemed to be absolutely fine. This isn't the first time this has happened, and it really only occasionally happens on the freeway.
Could an occasional problem like this stem from a bad pre-cat? It's just so strange that it only happens occasionally in certain circumstances. I'm at my wits end with this. I'm thinking about gutting the back pre-cat since I'm getting the p0420 and I do get occasional rattling when backing off acceleration in the 20-40 mph range.
What else could this be?
p.s. this is a 2002 Maxima
06-24-2015, 08:02 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
Hey guys I've got an o2 simulator running and the other day my ses light came on. Cant remember the exact code but it was a bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor error. Looked at my o2 sim and saw that the little blinking LED was not illuminated and the electrical tape around it had sortof become greasy and loose (oops). The car has had a rough idle, finally today getting really erratic and it died as I shifted from reverse to drive out of my driveway this morning. It also seems to hesitate when gassing it. I'm waiting on another o2 sim shipment to come in for the site I use, but is the bad sim what's causing the idle and sputtering out? The car has always had a slightly erratic idle that I can't pin down, but the low idle and sputtering out is a new symptom. This also coincides with the death of my alternator (only 2 yrs old) the other day, so I'm hoping nothing underlying is going on.
06-24-2015, 08:48 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Hey guys I've got an o2 simulator running and the other day my ses light came on. Cant remember the exact code but it was a bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor error. Looked at my o2 sim and saw that the little blinking LED was not illuminated and the electrical tape around it had sortof become greasy and loose (oops). The car has had a rough idle, finally today getting really erratic and it died as I shifted from reverse to drive out of my driveway this morning. It also seems to hesitate when gassing it. I'm waiting on another o2 sim shipment to come in for the site I use, but is the bad sim what's causing the idle and sputtering out? The car has always had a slightly erratic idle that I can't pin down, but the low idle and sputtering out is a new symptom. This also coincides with the death of my alternator (only 2 yrs old) the other day, so I'm hoping nothing underlying is going on.
for engine control operation". Its only mission is to monitor the performance of the Cat converter, and to report its condition to your DMV (inevitably, that's what it is). So, whatever problems your current O2 Simulator may have, they should not impact the driveability of your car,
Last edited by maxiiiboy; 06-24-2015 at 08:53 PM.
06-24-2015, 11:47 PM
Hey guys I've got an o2 simulator running and the other day my ses light came on. Cant remember the exact code but it was a bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor error. Looked at my o2 sim and saw that the little blinking LED was not illuminated and the electrical tape around it had sortof become greasy and loose (oops). The car has had a rough idle, finally today getting really erratic and it died as I shifted from reverse to drive out of my driveway this morning. It also seems to hesitate when gassing it. I'm waiting on another o2 sim shipment to come in for the site I use, but is the bad sim what's causing the idle and sputtering out? The car has always had a slightly erratic idle that I can't pin down, but the low idle and sputtering out is a new symptom. This also coincides with the death of my alternator (only 2 yrs old) the other day, so I'm hoping nothing underlying is going on.
06-25-2015, 10:34 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 94
According to the FSM, the rear O2 sensor has no impact driveability - no impact on rich/lean ratio of the air fuel mixture, etc. See EC-275: " ... Under normal conditions the rear heated oxygen sensor is not used
for engine control operation". Its only mission is to monitor the performance of the Cat converter, and to report its condition to your DMV (inevitably, that's what it is). So, whatever problems your current O2 Simulator may have, they should not impact the driveability of your car,
for engine control operation". Its only mission is to monitor the performance of the Cat converter, and to report its condition to your DMV (inevitably, that's what it is). So, whatever problems your current O2 Simulator may have, they should not impact the driveability of your car,
Last edited by dcam0326; 06-25-2015 at 10:41 AM.
06-25-2015, 08:59 PM
If that plastic straw went into the throttle body and into the intake manifold, it won't be any problem. The heat of the combustion chambers will incinerate it.
06-28-2015, 08:28 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10
Can doors be set to lock automatically?
I just bought a neighbor's 2001 Maxima GLE. Can the doors be set to lock automatically when you start the car?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
06-28-2015, 12:05 PM
I just bought a neighbor's 2001 Maxima GLE. Can the doors be set to lock automatically when you start the car?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
06-30-2015, 08:51 AM
I just bought a neighbor's 2001 Maxima GLE. Can the doors be set to lock automatically when you start the car?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
My other car is a 2000 Sienna. After I stick the key in the ignition and start it, all of the doors lock. I'd like the Maxima to do the same.
I did some internet searches and learned that this is a feature you can turn on or off in some cars. Sometimes the doors lock as soon as you start the car, or when you shift from park or when you reach a certain speed.
Can my 2001 Maxima be set to lock the doors automatically?
06-30-2015, 10:08 AM
https://maxima.org/forums/northeastern-u-s-11/
07-01-2015, 12:08 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 10
07-01-2015, 06:52 PM
Old school hornet 554t. It is alarm with auto start function. I would think most alarms should have that function. Maybe call the manufacturer?
07-06-2015, 04:51 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 20
Hey all, was told about the site by the previous owner of my new-to-me 5th gen. I have the 3rd gear grind above ~3k rpm, he said it was synchros, so I figure to just take it easy on it and maybe swap a 6th gen? Also, has a small oil leak, every time I've looked for a thread on it I can't seem to find anything with sufficient info for me. Wondering what the best way to go with that is.
