unrealii

iTrader: (8)

If I do an auto to manual swap in my 01 gle, will I have any issues smogging it in California? I plan to keep the car as oem as possible when it comes to the drivetrain and emissions components.

L36

iTrader: (4)

If you insist doing a swap do a 6 speed swap or don't bother.
Second, it would be much more financially efficient to sell the car and buy manual. Smogging should not be an issue as long as you keep all the cats and the stock air box.

Anyway, i have a squeaky like noise coming from my drivers side rear wheel every time i make a left turn.

Ideas what it could be? The caliper does not seize...

CdnBrit

Update: The car has been running really well since I changed all the coils last October (not OEM mind you but from eBay). However the CEL light has not gone away.

The only code that I have now is the P1320. According to this site, even though I changed the coils the ECU might still be throwing the code because they are not OEM? Is that true and should I replace all coils with OEM versions?

Also, I need to replace the exhaust pipe / tail pipe of the car. Where is a good place to order them online, without breaking the bank?

Interestingly enough though, I found a hose that is not connected to anything today. I couldn't figure of where it goes. Picture attached. Can someone please tell me where it's supposed to be connected to? TIA.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

IIRC that's a breather hose, doesn't connect to anything.

paradis21

Hi everyone, new guy here looking for help.

Have an 02 Maxima, auto, 135k. The other day while driving I had complete loss of power. the car didn't stall, but stepping on the gas did nothing other than maybe cause the rpm needle to move slightly. this went on for about 10-15 secs and then the power returned and all was fine rest of the day. Next day I was driving and same thing happened. no power, but not stalled. Managed to coast far enough to pull of side of road. when in neutral, engine would rev fine, but in drive or any other gear, nothing. then gauges went nuts. gas, temp gauges bouncing up and down, lights flickering, dash lights going on and off(abs, battery, etc). At this point I shut the car off. Now won't start at all, engine not turning over, appears battery dead.

my first thought was alternator, but would that have caused loss of power while driving? some searching has also suggested possible MAF? anyone have similar experience?

jfman55

alright im driving myself crazy because even though i have read i dont understand. i have a 01 maxima. i need to change bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor. i need to buy from autozone and autozone only talks in upstream or downstream. someone would told me it would be rear downstream. is that right?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, it would be front upstream.

jfman55

thank you so much!

kawizxr

Have you tried a transmission flush? Just changing your tranny oil won't remove it all. Only about 1/3 comes out. In the past I had transmission problems on my 93 240sx, it started not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd and then it started slipping. I did a tranmission flush at Firestone for $100 about 2 yrs ago and the trans works like new now. My dads old car(89 Max) had problems with it shifting and it was the transmission oil cooler built in to the radiator.

arkangelgabriel

Mine does a slight jerk when shifting from first to second gear. I thought it was natural for a 190k miles engine and tranny. Anyways what i thout it might be the transmission mount. Whem i take off slow and the car shifts with less than 2k rpms it doenst jerk. I changey tranny fluid regularly, every two oil changes or so.

ajth87

I have not tried flushing yet, merely because many say not to do so especially when the fluid hasn't been changed in a while. I am going to get a few more drain and refills over the next few months to get the fluid cleaner. I am also going to have the trans filter replaced and magnets cleaned during one of the drain and refills. With mine I notice when i drive it first thing in the morning, cold, it doesn't jerk. After warming up it begins to jerk slightly. Any of you have a jerk when putting the car into reverse? I get that also. Thanks.

AJ

ajth87

I was, also, thinking it can, perhaps, be the transmission mount. I am going to have it thoroughly checked to ensure that everything checks out right. I have 132K on my car now and I feel that it should still be shifting really smooth. A few of my friends have around the same or more miles on their cars and they still shift smooth and Nissan is a better brand than my friends cars so I would think they would be better and smoother. Hopefully it is something small.

AJ

arkangelgabriel

No dude mine does not jerk when put in reverse at all. Yeah our trannys are better (up to 03. Not convinced by the cvt. Mother in law has a 06 murano with 65k miles on it and shes already having tranny problems). But if the fluid was not changed regulary it might have affected the tranny even thou its a nissan. Just a thought. I have never changed the tranny filter thou, maybe i should. Is it hard to change?

boatboy63

First post here and have a few questions. We have a 96 Maxima SE that belongs to the wife and will be selling it soon. Just bought an 02 Maxima GLE. The body is in very good condition, but the engine is about shot. It has a rod knocking and has 240,000 miles on the clock. Got it at a good price but am trying to decide on whether to just rebuild the engine myself or drop a donor engine in. I have done all kinds of mechanical work for the last 30 years and rebuilding isn't out of my ability as I have done them before. I thought the donor method would get her on the road alot faster but she kinda bragged on me without even knowing it. She told me she would prefer me to rebuild it so she would feel it was in better shape. Said if we bought a used engine, who knows how long it would last. What would you guys do? Cost looks like it would be about the same either way but would just take longer to rebuild.

Next question has to do with the audio system. Somebody had broke the passenger's window out and stole the radio. I don't know which version it had in it and was wondering if there was any way of knowing. I want to get a replacement for it before it is back on the road.

Also need to get a new remote for it, as we only received 1 key and no remote. I already know how to program the remote, but does the key have to be done at a dealer? I just hate getting shafted at a $tealership. If I do, can I just buy an uncut transponder key from ebay and let them cut it and program? What is an approximate cost to get this key done?

This car being an automatic is going to take some getting used to. The 96 was a 5 speed and so is my 95 Altima that is my work car. This is the first automatic we have owned in 20 years. Wife isn't a typical woman and loves driving a stick (wait for it...). Every time she turns down the road where we live, I tell her she doesn't have to qualify for the Indy.

Thanks guys.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

1 - If you feel comfortable rebuilding the engine yourself, have the time and tools/equipment, and enjoy doing it, then do it. Getting a used engine, especially if the mileage on it cannot be determined, is always a crapshoot. In general, the VQ engine is a good one, so a low mileage one would PROBABLY be fine. My first sentence is really my answer.

2 - Being a GLE model, the car probably had the Bose. To double check this, look in the trunk for a subwoofer mounted on the bottom of the parcel shelf. Non Bose systems did not have a subwoofer. It is important to determine the proper audio head unit as the wire harness in the car is different. The 2 versions use the same physical connectors, but the Bose version has more wires in it.

3 - Definitely get a couple of extra keys made. When I bought my car (used), I was like you, 1 key and no remote. What I did was buy blank keys and a remote on-line and found a local locksmith to cut and program the keys to the car. You don't need to go to the dealer for this. Heck of a lot less money. Price the keys on the internet before you talk to a locksmith. I got a good price on the labor but he wanted too much for the key itself. For future reference, the programming process starts by erasing all existing keys from the computer, so you need to have all other keys with you. With only one key right now, no problem.

4 - GLE is standard with automatic. In my opinion, the Nissan automatic is one level above garbage. You drive that sucker hard, stomping on the gas, downshifting, full throttle shifts, etc, you may adopt my position.

If you want to get a FSM (Factory Service Manual), download one from here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/

The file named FWD.PDF is the starting point, the index of the various chapters. I renamed mine to be 2000 Service Manual.PDF, making it first in the list of files.

The file named IDX.PDF is the alphabetical index for the manual.

boatboy63

Thanks Dennis. There was a BOSE sub in the center of the rear deck. There are 3 harnesses in the area where the HU was at. I took a pic and am attaching it so maybe someone could verify it. Guess I won't attach it, as you have to use your own hosting to do it.

Also, I am wondering if this car had keyless entry or not. Being a GLE, I would think it does. I popped a relay cover off on the passenger's side of the engine compartment and the area marked as being for keyless is empty. Is there any way of knowing? Thanks again.

smokin5s

I've been toying with the idea for a while to get some sort of base in my car... I don't want anything crazy, but the factory speakers just need some help... and I happened to run across a post tonight talking about that the factory BOSE stereo's have an 8 inch subwoofer from the factory... so my question is, where does the BOSE Subwoofer get mounted as well as does my car (non-bose) have the mounting hardware in place for a subwoofer, or would I be able to purchase the BOSE subwoofer mounting hardware and mount an 8 inch sub and still be able to retain full use of my trunk. I don't need a ton of bass and I want to keep full function of my trunk so I'd rather not install any type of box back there.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

You definitely have Bose if you see the sub.

And you definitely had/have keyless entry. I have yet to come across a a 5th gen that didn't.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I doubt it's the make of the coil. I'd follow the P1320 procedure in the FSM to see what comes up: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2001/EC.pdf

I got all the stuff needed to replace the exhaust from the cat all the way back from Napa for $400 and change, including all new hangers and stuff. It's a Walker exhaust, about on par with OEM. The forum thinks that for a straight-up OEM replacement, Walker and Bosal are both just fine.

CdnBrit

Thanks Homey! I was hoping you'd reply. I'll try the diagnosis stuff, but all I have is a regular multi-meter so hopefully that will work.

I don't suppose you have a part listing of the exhaust parts you bought from Napa? I have a cali-spec version.

CdnBrit

Thanks!

ajth87

Thanks again for the reply. I am going to try to get the issue fixed asap. Hopefully it is something fixable because I love the car. I'll be taking it to Nissan within the next couple weeks, so I will see what they say. Thanks again.

AJ

jfman55

bank 1 sensor 2 what is it called in autozone talk? rear upstream? i have code p0140 no activity bank 1 sensor 2 so replace right?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Rear downstream.

Do some actual diagnostics on the O2, don't replace based solely on a code. While it may very well be the O2 sensor itself, if it isn't you're just wasting time and money.

jfman55

How would i diagnos? Read live data? Also which would be bad numbers?
thanks

arkangelgabriel

Ok so a little advice if anyone can help pls. For some time now when i was starting the car all of the sudden while the engine turned it would stop. Then id crank again and it would start fine. I had suspitions about thr started untill today. Car did the same except it did not start again. Now it just clicks and the engine does not turn. Hit the started coupla times while the wife tried to start the car anf it did turn couple of times but then now it justs clicks even if i hit the starter. So im thinking its definally the started right? But not 100% sure. Any advice/info?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It sure sounds like the starter. Like maybe the brushes in the motor are worn out.

arkangelgabriel

Thank you dennis. Yeah ill get an starter tomorrow morning from autozone

TheDude00

So I have a couple of quick question I am relatively certain about, however I want to check with you guys to be sure.

1. First: Are the headlights on an 00-01 Maxima smaller then those on an 02-03 Maxima?
   
2. Second: Is it possible to fit an 5.5 gen bumper onto a 5th gen?
   If anyone wants the explanation as to why I ask I will be more then happy to explain. Just don't wanna make this into a small essay.
   
3. Last: Probably the stupidest question is this one; I should change my manual transmission fluid, but should not change my fuel filter unless something in there is broken?
   
   Thanks for the all the info.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I have a Canadian/50 state emissions model, which is the same exhaust, cat converter, and o2 sensor setup. The parts are actually the same from the catalytic converter back for all 5th gens in the aftermarket. I was looking for the Bosal parts, but they're hard to find around here, so I ended up with a Walker exhaust. The two tailpipes arc downward a bit, which is why the Walker setup is considered incompatible with the 20th Anniversary Edition. The Cdn version I have doesn't come with the lip or ground effects, so for those, it's fine.

Napa PN Desc Price
31374 gasket 5.79
56039 extension pipe 119.00
31576 gasket 2.99
54295 muffler 163.00
35460 exhaust insulator 4.99
35725 exh insulator (2 @ 4.99) 8.98
301628B cap screw (4 @0.49) 1.96
4152-031B uss nuts (4 @ 0.29) 1.16
8070-030B F washer (4 @ 0.29) 1.16
8076-031B lockwash (4 @ 0.29) 1.16

Subtotal: 311.19
VA Tax @ 5%: 15.56
Total: 326.75

The walker exhaust is fine, but a little louder than the oem one. Just barely. It claims better flow than stock, but other than the butt-dyno being relieved the car doesn't sound like an unmaintained pos, it can't feel a difference.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Based on what I have read here on days I was bored:

1. Yes, but some on here have made the gen 5.5's fit 5.0's and vice versa. Some mod the mounting brackets or posts to make it look right.

2. Yes. If you change the front bumper to gen 5.5, the front headlights will also line up right. However, not all snap holes and stuff may be in the same place. ETA: The 5.5 gen has an integrated grille, and the 5th gen is separate, but I don't know how that affects mounting and stuff.

3. Technically both are 'lifetime' items, but your lifetime will likely be shorter if you don't change the transmission gear oil. How much depends on your climate and driving habits. Worth switching, IMO, although watch that viscosity vs the stock oil - I changed oils on my Toyota and discovered that Toyota gear oil is much thinner than they claim, and the gearbox with Mobil 1 Synth in it felt like you were rowing a boat between shifts. Smooth as butter though

I'd only change the fuel filter if there are drive-ability problems or if the fuel pump getting louder because it's working harder.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

2 - You have this reversed. The 5.0 grille is integrated and the 5.5 is separate.

3 - The transmission oil is not lifetime. The owners guide and the FSM both say to change the oil every 15K miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. This applies to both manual and auto trans.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The 5.0 and 5.5 gen front bumper covers mount to the car in the exact same way.

CdnBrit

Fantastic! Thanks Homey!! From the look of things, I should be able to do this myself as well. My car receives unwanted attention due to the holes in the exhaust.

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

I stand corrected
I actually looked at mine this weekend, and the columns on the maintenance table say 'I' for "inspect" only, every 30,000 mi/24 months. No change interval is listed. I can scan that page and post it if you like. There is a note on the bottom for Schedule 1 severe service to replace the oil every 24 months or 30k miles if using a "camper, trailer, or car-top carrier."

Page MA-8 of the 2001 FSM says the same.

ComplexRex

Hey guys! I bought an 03 Maxima back in 05 when I graduated high school. My dad borrowed it one day and crashed it, destroying the engine. He had it replaced with a used one which ended up giving me endless issues. After going through a process of elimination where everything was done and the problem wasn't solved, the fifth mechanic I took it to said the ECM was corrupted making the engine believe a piston was misfiring when it physically wasn't. Anyway I stopped driving it 1 1/2 years ago but never got rid of it cause I love it. Now the engine is dead (I think).

My questions are:

1. Are there any good options online to shop for a high quality low mileage engine?

2. Can the VQ35DE from the 2004 Infiniti I35 or later generation Maximas fit and work perfectly with this generation Max? It would be easier for me to find an engine across all those model years instead of just looking for 2000-2003.

thanks for the help!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Not really. Start calling junkyards, car-part.com, and others. You're just going to have to search.


The 2004 I35 engine will fit. However I would NOT search for model years 00-01, they were still a VQ30.

DoonBusy

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know the part number for the driver's side axle seal and the best place to buy a good one? mine has a leak. Should i go OEM or aftermarket?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

^^ Assuming you're talking about the CV boot? You can get a generic aftermarket boot kit. It's only recommended to replace the boot if you're CERTAIN your CV joint has not become contaminated with particles - it WILL cause your joint to fail. You're often better off just replacing the axle.

DoonBusy

iTrader: (3)

nope, i'm talking about where the axle meets the transmission. I found a couple old threads talking about it but no part numbers or recommendations on OEM vs aftermarket