5th Gen "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread
02-22-2014, 09:18 PM
02-23-2014, 02:56 PM
so I blew my engine in my 2000 max. and now im just swapping another motor in. but my max I a 5 speed. and the motor I have is from a 2000 automatic. some things are not lining up. like the exhaust manifold or the tranny and some mounts. whats the problem?
02-24-2014, 01:04 PM
so I blew my engine in my 2000 max. and now im just swapping another motor in. but my max I a 5 speed. and the motor I have is from a 2000 automatic. some things are not lining up. like the exhaust manifold or the tranny and some mounts. whats the problem?
The exhaust is the same for both transmissions; manifolds, pipes muffler, etc.
Don't know why you are having a problem. Are you putting a 3.0 engine in or a 3.5?
02-24-2014, 08:01 PM
The motor mount that bolts onto the transmission is different between the auto and manual trans. Since it bolts to the trans and not the engine, you should be using the correct one unless you replaced it with the wrong one. The other 3 that bolt to the engine are the same for auto or manual.
The exhaust is the same for both transmissions; manifolds, pipes muffler, etc.
Don't know why you are having a problem. Are you putting a 3.0 engine in or a 3.5?
The exhaust is the same for both transmissions; manifolds, pipes muffler, etc.
Don't know why you are having a problem. Are you putting a 3.0 engine in or a 3.5?
so what is needed to have the bolts the same from motor mount?
02-25-2014, 01:22 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 29
I made mine on my own. Came out awesome with the apexi filter and filter adapter. I just went online and ordered a universal 3" diameter mid pipe, this one actually: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281055453059?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D281055453059%26_rdc%3D1For $35 bucks that's not bad just for a midpipe that actually has the hole already in it. Then I ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150809204468?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D150809204468%26_rdc%3D1to adapt to the MAF obviously. Then I ordered the 3" OD Apexi filter, but be careful, I messed this up the first time too, it doesn't come with the Apexi filter ADAPTER, which you also have to buy. But this custom set-up vs all of the name brand ones that cost $200+, I'm very very happy. Haven't found a downfall yet and the noise is incredible.
02-25-2014, 07:02 PM
I made mine on my own. Came out awesome with the apexi filter and filter adapter. I just went online and ordered a universal 3" diameter mid pipe, this one actually: 2004 2005 2006 04 05 06 Nissan Maxima SE SL 3 5 3 5L V6 Air Intake Induction Red | eBay
For $35 bucks that's not bad just for a midpipe that actually has the hole already in it. Then I ordered: 03 06 350Z G35 Altima V6 Air Intake MAF Filter Adapter Billet Aluminum | eBay
to adapt to the MAF obviously. Then I ordered the 3" OD Apexi filter, but be careful, I messed this up the first time too, it doesn't come with the Apexi filter ADAPTER, which you also have to buy. But this custom set-up vs all of the name brand ones that cost $200+, I'm very very happy. Haven't found a downfall yet and the noise is incredible.
For $35 bucks that's not bad just for a midpipe that actually has the hole already in it. Then I ordered: 03 06 350Z G35 Altima V6 Air Intake MAF Filter Adapter Billet Aluminum | eBay
to adapt to the MAF obviously. Then I ordered the 3" OD Apexi filter, but be careful, I messed this up the first time too, it doesn't come with the Apexi filter ADAPTER, which you also have to buy. But this custom set-up vs all of the name brand ones that cost $200+, I'm very very happy. Haven't found a downfall yet and the noise is incredible.
02-26-2014, 01:36 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Brunswick, Maine
Posts: 29
) along with the MAF adapter. All in all though, it's a lot cheaper of a setup than name brands and you get the same thing if not better. Not to mention building your own custom sri is kind of satisfying. Hope I helped. 
02-26-2014, 06:11 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 5
thanks again
Sitting 6 months isn't all that bad, but the engine oil and filter should be changed. Oil can absorb moisture and junk from just sitting.
Mileage wise, the air filter is due for replacement, so do it
Spark plugs aren't affected by sitting around, but should have been changed at 105K miles. If the previous owner didn't change them, do it.
For your own benefit, replace the cabin air filter. I bet it is way past it's change time.
I would leave the fuel filter alone. The fuel filter is supposed to be a lifetime filter. It is a big filter to make it lifetime and it is located inside the gas tank.
To see the maintenance schedule for your car, click on the link below and go to page 7:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/MA.pdf
If you want to download the entire service manual, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/
Enjoy the car!
Mileage wise, the air filter is due for replacement, so do it
Spark plugs aren't affected by sitting around, but should have been changed at 105K miles. If the previous owner didn't change them, do it.
For your own benefit, replace the cabin air filter. I bet it is way past it's change time.
I would leave the fuel filter alone. The fuel filter is supposed to be a lifetime filter. It is a big filter to make it lifetime and it is located inside the gas tank.
To see the maintenance schedule for your car, click on the link below and go to page 7:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/MA.pdf
If you want to download the entire service manual, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/
Enjoy the car!
thank u ! I done all that except the air filter which I will do soon.
got 2 codes though.
o2 sensor up stream and I bought the part was a bosch for 120$ but haven't put on not sure if its a diy or not.
and other code was a p1800 which im not to clear about?
car has also turned off 3 times today randomly...
ones while parked and 2 times while driving but started right back up...
any ideas on any of this??
*** sorry for any typos , I wrote a whole lot F^&&*$% more but it didn't go through so I wrote it again a lot smaller and faster
02-26-2014, 07:00 PM
thank u ! I done all that except the air filter which I will do soon.
got 2 codes though.
o2 sensor up stream and I bought the part was a bosch for 120$ but haven't put on not sure if its a diy or not.
and other code was a p1800 which im not to clear about?
car has also turned off 3 times today randomly...
ones while parked and 2 times while driving but started right back up...
any ideas on any of this??
*** sorry for any typos , I wrote a whole lot F^&&*$% more but it didn't go through so I wrote it again a lot smaller and faster
got 2 codes though.
o2 sensor up stream and I bought the part was a bosch for 120$ but haven't put on not sure if its a diy or not.
and other code was a p1800 which im not to clear about?
car has also turned off 3 times today randomly...
ones while parked and 2 times while driving but started right back up...
any ideas on any of this??
*** sorry for any typos , I wrote a whole lot F^&&*$% more but it didn't go through so I wrote it again a lot smaller and faster
The upstream O2 sensors determine how much fuel the ECU will inject into the cylinder. Bad O2 sensors can cause poor gas mileage or cause the engine to run lean, depending on how it goes bad. This might be your engine dying problem. And maybe not.
You gotta learn to do better shopping! Paying $120 for that Bosch sensor was too much. You can get it for $79 on rockauto.com.
The P1800 code (VIAS Control Solenoid Valve) is for a solenoid vacuum valve that sits towards the passenger side end of the intake manifold. It has 3 vacuum hoses and an electrical connector on it. See page EC-24 for a location diagram or page EC-688. Keep reading from page 689 for how to test the valve.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EC.pdf
02-28-2014, 01:33 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Preventive maintenance ?
I am not that new but I have a non-trivial question, and this looks like a good thread to do that.
I am the original owner of 2000 SE Max (AT) with 120k miles. I decided to keep the car "another 5 years, and perhaps forever", so I am taking pro-active measures to prevent expensive repairs. In practice, this means focus on avoiding damage to the most expensive parts - engine, automatic transmission, and ECU.
Based on the input from this forum, and from couple of talks to one of the senior technicians at the local Nissan dealership, I collected the following list:
There are other tasks but none of them deal with "catastrophic" damage like those above.
To the senior members on this thread: what would you change, add, or delete? I am very much interested in your comments .........
I am the original owner of 2000 SE Max (AT) with 120k miles. I decided to keep the car "another 5 years, and perhaps forever", so I am taking pro-active measures to prevent expensive repairs. In practice, this means focus on avoiding damage to the most expensive parts - engine, automatic transmission, and ECU.
Based on the input from this forum, and from couple of talks to one of the senior technicians at the local Nissan dealership, I collected the following list:
- Disconnect both electronic engine mounts (done).
- Do something about the IACV (prevent it from frying the ECU). The Nissan tech told me that most IACVs tend to fail between 120k and 160k miles. He feels it's sufficient to replace the seal/"O" ring on the IACV; replacing the IACV (with an OEM part) is another solution, but a lot more expensive. He discouraged me from doing the coolant bypass (car won't run right), and from using an after-market IACV.
- Change transmission fluid every 30k miles (I am doing 15k). No need to drop the pan, no need to clean the internal "filter". (Again, this is from the Nissan tech).
- Flush the radiator every 2 years or 30k miles.
- Use synthetic engine oil, change ever 5k-7k miles.
There are other tasks but none of them deal with "catastrophic" damage like those above.
To the senior members on this thread: what would you change, add, or delete? I am very much interested in your comments .........
02-28-2014, 09:51 AM
I am not that new but I have a non-trivial question, and this looks like a good thread to do that.
I am the original owner of 2000 SE Max (AT) with 120k miles. I decided to keep the car "another 5 years, and perhaps forever", so I am taking pro-active measures to prevent expensive repairs. In practice, this means focus on avoiding damage to the most expensive parts - engine, automatic transmission, and ECU.
Based on the input from this forum, and from couple of talks to one of the senior technicians at the local Nissan dealership, I collected the following list:
There are other tasks but none of them deal with "catastrophic" damage like those above.
To the senior members on this thread: what would you change, add, or delete? I am very much interested in your comments .........
I am the original owner of 2000 SE Max (AT) with 120k miles. I decided to keep the car "another 5 years, and perhaps forever", so I am taking pro-active measures to prevent expensive repairs. In practice, this means focus on avoiding damage to the most expensive parts - engine, automatic transmission, and ECU.
Based on the input from this forum, and from couple of talks to one of the senior technicians at the local Nissan dealership, I collected the following list:
- Disconnect both electronic engine mounts (done).
- Do something about the IACV (prevent it from frying the ECU). The Nissan tech told me that most IACVs tend to fail between 120k and 160k miles. He feels it's sufficient to replace the seal/"O" ring on the IACV; replacing the IACV (with an OEM part) is another solution, but a lot more expensive. He discouraged me from doing the coolant bypass (car won't run right), and from using an after-market IACV.
- Change transmission fluid every 30k miles (I am doing 15k). No need to drop the pan, no need to clean the internal "filter". (Again, this is from the Nissan tech).
- Flush the radiator every 2 years or 30k miles.
- Use synthetic engine oil, change ever 5k-7k miles.
There are other tasks but none of them deal with "catastrophic" damage like those above.
To the senior members on this thread: what would you change, add, or delete? I am very much interested in your comments .........
I feel that the engine oil change with synthetic oils is a little too frequent. I would got 10K myself.
I also feel the transmission oil change frequency is too frequent. What I find amazing is that Nissan does not recommend changing the ATF. They say "inspect" it every 15K miles. I don't believe in that, but an oil change every 60K or 75K would be fine.
Then there is the IACV controversy. I disagree with the mechanic. Doing the coolant by-pass will only be a minor problem to those living in winter climates when first starting the car on a real cold morning. The engine might run a little rough, maybe die at idle until the engine warms up. However, you still have that problem possibility when you first start the engine without having done the by-pass, but it will "go away" quicker.
I applaud you for taking care of you car. More people should be half as concerned as you.
02-28-2014, 10:20 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Preventive maintenance?
Thank you Dennis - I hoped you would respond, as I have a lot respect for your knowledge.
I disconnected the battery before disconnecting the mounts, and the car was not running. I am not sure I can detect any change - car is running great.
Re. the IACV, what would you do if this was your car?
As you can see, I badly want to avoid damaging my ECU and the associated hassles ....
I disconnected the battery before disconnecting the mounts, and the car was not running. I am not sure I can detect any change - car is running great.
Re. the IACV, what would you do if this was your car?
- Do the bypass only? (I live in Caifornia)
- Replace the seal/"O" ring only? (I have the part, bought it from Auto Parts Warehouse for $3.95)
- Replace the IACV, including "O" ring. (I have such part, bought it from AIP Electronics for about $65, looks just like the OEM, DC checks out great - as per FSM, 22 ohms, etc. Now not sure whether I should use it).
- Replace the IACV with the OEM part (I would have to buy it, pay $200+ on top of $65 I already paid for the aftermarket one ... ).
- Do some combination of above (bypass plus IACV replacement .... or other).
As you can see, I badly want to avoid damaging my ECU and the associated hassles ....
Last edited by maxiiiboy; 02-28-2014 at 10:29 AM.
03-01-2014, 11:21 AM
Thank you Dennis - I hoped you would respond, as I have a lot respect for your knowledge.
I disconnected the battery before disconnecting the mounts, and the car was not running. I am not sure I can detect any change - car is running great.
Re. the IACV, what would you do if this was your car?
As you can see, I badly want to avoid damaging my ECU and the associated hassles ....
I disconnected the battery before disconnecting the mounts, and the car was not running. I am not sure I can detect any change - car is running great.
Re. the IACV, what would you do if this was your car?
- Do the bypass only? (I live in Caifornia)
- Replace the seal/"O" ring only? (I have the part, bought it from Auto Parts Warehouse for $3.95)
- Replace the IACV, including "O" ring. (I have such part, bought it from AIP Electronics for about $65, looks just like the OEM, DC checks out great - as per FSM, 22 ohms, etc. Now not sure whether I should use it).
- Replace the IACV with the OEM part (I would have to buy it, pay $200+ on top of $65 I already paid for the aftermarket one ... ).
- Do some combination of above (bypass plus IACV replacement .... or other).
As you can see, I badly want to avoid damaging my ECU and the associated hassles ....
While the IACV could still go bad, at least it won't short out the ECU. There has been some information that the insulation on the windings in the IACV motor fails and the IACV has to be replaced. If there is coolant leaking, that just makes it that much worse.
I don't believe in replacing parts just because it might fail. Anything made by man is going to fail, all we can argue about is when. We know the IACV seems to have a shorter life than we would like, but I would just by-pass the coolant and wait until I had the P0505 DTC code and idle problems.
03-01-2014, 12:36 PM
Maxiiiboy, I agree with Dennis. I also live in California and have done the iacv bypass just to be on the safe side, and my car runs fine. I've not had any issues whatsoever. I usually pre - warm the engine because I live ridiculously close to the freeway, so I don't really notice any cold - start issues. Even when I do run it cold, it runs fine. Hope this helps.
03-01-2014, 01:19 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Dennis and MaxxedOutt: Thanks for your input, this helps!
I came to the same conclusion: I went back to see the Nissan tech, and pressed him on whether he actually has real negative experience with the bypass, or whether he only made a general statement about such mods.
He admitted he doesn't have real/specific experience, and said "OK, do it".
This is now my next project.
I came to the same conclusion: I went back to see the Nissan tech, and pressed him on whether he actually has real negative experience with the bypass, or whether he only made a general statement about such mods.
He admitted he doesn't have real/specific experience, and said "OK, do it".
This is now my next project.
03-05-2014, 08:21 AM
code P0174 is fuel injectors in bank 2 have too lean a mixture. Bank 2 is the side of the engine by the radiator.
One of the possible causes could be the fuel injector 1 as Nissan calls it. Parts stores call sensor 1 the upstream sensor.
Yes. The sensor in the link is what you want. But if you are ordering that sensor on-line, you're paying too much. If you order Denso O2 sensor # 234-3113 from rockauto.com, it is only $65.89.
One of the possible causes could be the fuel injector 1 as Nissan calls it. Parts stores call sensor 1 the upstream sensor.
Yes. The sensor in the link is what you want. But if you are ordering that sensor on-line, you're paying too much. If you order Denso O2 sensor # 234-3113 from rockauto.com, it is only $65.89.
03-05-2014, 10:57 AM
The check engine light will probably still be on after you replace the sensor. You can drive the car for something like 50 miles and the light will go off if the problem has been corrected. If you want quicker results, you can either hook up an OBD code reader and reset the light or disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. If you disconnect the battery, be aware that your radio station pre-sets will be lost and the clock will have to be reset.
03-05-2014, 08:08 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
I just picked up a 01 SE 20th AE and slowly fixing little things that need attention that I find. So far, replaced a couple odds and ends but the thing that really gets me is the bad gas mileage. I only got 180 ish miles to the tank!! That's horrible. Is there anything I should look at right away? I replaced the air filter already. Maybe new spark plugs? New fuel filter?
Also another thing is the transmission. Putting down the gas pedal and it seems sluggish. It seems to pick up ok from dead stop to about 4k, after that, it just falls on its face. I don't beat on it all the time, but I have done so just to see if it still has some power left. Is there anything I should be worried about? Maybe flush and refill trans fluid?
Also another thing is the transmission. Putting down the gas pedal and it seems sluggish. It seems to pick up ok from dead stop to about 4k, after that, it just falls on its face. I don't beat on it all the time, but I have done so just to see if it still has some power left. Is there anything I should be worried about? Maybe flush and refill trans fluid?
03-05-2014, 10:06 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
180 miles per tank is bad. You should be getting 300+ miles (20 mpg) in urban driving unless you are in the snow country.
How was the car maintained ? It would help to know .....
Is the "check engine light" on/off ?
When were the spark plugs replaced ?
Based on your comment re. sluggishness, I would check/replace the spark plugs and clean/replace the MAF sensor .......
How was the car maintained ? It would help to know .....
Is the "check engine light" on/off ?
When were the spark plugs replaced ?
Based on your comment re. sluggishness, I would check/replace the spark plugs and clean/replace the MAF sensor .......
03-06-2014, 02:09 AM
I just picked up a 01 SE 20th AE and slowly fixing little things that need attention that I find. So far, replaced a couple odds and ends but the thing that really gets me is the bad gas mileage. I only got 180 ish miles to the tank!! That's horrible. Is there anything I should look at right away? I replaced the air filter already. Maybe new spark plugs? New fuel filter?
Also another thing is the transmission. Putting down the gas pedal and it seems sluggish. It seems to pick up ok from dead stop to about 4k, after that, it just falls on its face. I don't beat on it all the time, but I have done so just to see if it still has some power left. Is there anything I should be worried about? Maybe flush and refill trans fluid?
Also another thing is the transmission. Putting down the gas pedal and it seems sluggish. It seems to pick up ok from dead stop to about 4k, after that, it just falls on its face. I don't beat on it all the time, but I have done so just to see if it still has some power left. Is there anything I should be worried about? Maybe flush and refill trans fluid?
Another possibility are the upstream O2 (oxygen) sensors. You can unplug them (this will cause the check engine light to come on) and drive the car for a tank of gas and see what the results are. This won't hurt the car.
Depending on the mileage of the car, you don't want to flush the transmission. If the car has over 100K on it, DON'T DO IT! You can drain the oil from the trans and re-fill it (about 4 quarts), but don't flush it. The sluggish performance you talk about is not because of the transmission, it is the engine not running right.
Spark plugs and air filter and stuff should be changed as regular maintenance, but these things wouldn't cause such a severe drop in gas mileage. The fuel filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter and shouldn't need changing. For the maintenance schedule, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/MA.pdf
Start reading at page 4, but starting at page 7 is where it gives you a schedule for changing things.
Last edited by DennisMik; 03-06-2014 at 02:22 AM.
03-06-2014, 09:28 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Anyone know how I can get this bulb out? I wanted to change my cluster light to led but I cant seem to get the stock bulb out. I looked at some other threads that mentioned the 03 clusters bulbs are hard to get out. (Couldn't post a picture). Thanks
03-06-2014, 10:29 AM
Only 1 of mine came out OK, the others broke, and I was only able to sacrifice 1 or 2 other bulb holders.
I looked for a lot of replacements, bought a few different styles and some worked, most didn't. And the ones that did were terrible in that they barely fit the cluster.
What I ended up doing was buying a used cluster off a member on here, worked perfectly after that. If you find no one selling, check www.car-part.com for one.
I assume you're doing this?: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...one-works.html
03-06-2014, 01:13 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
It's a PITA and you'll probably end up breaking the bulb then it's a real crapper to get the remnants of the blub out.
Only 1 of mine came out OK, the others broke, and I was only able to sacrifice 1 or 2 other bulb holders.
I looked for a lot of replacements, bought a few different styles and some worked, most didn't. And the ones that did were terrible in that they barely fit the cluster.
What I ended up doing was buying a used cluster off a member on here, worked perfectly after that. If you find no one selling, check www.car-part.com for one.
I assume you're doing this?: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...one-works.html
Only 1 of mine came out OK, the others broke, and I was only able to sacrifice 1 or 2 other bulb holders.
I looked for a lot of replacements, bought a few different styles and some worked, most didn't. And the ones that did were terrible in that they barely fit the cluster.
What I ended up doing was buying a used cluster off a member on here, worked perfectly after that. If you find no one selling, check www.car-part.com for one.
I assume you're doing this?: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...one-works.html
03-06-2014, 02:10 PM
Well, try your best not to break the bulb. Also, might want to check the latest threads and links in that particular thread because if I'm not mistaken, they may have found a good replacement for the base. And all the ones I bought were dirt cheap.
03-06-2014, 07:05 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
The MAF is a good possibility. You can get a can of MAF cleaner and try it, but if the MAF is truly bad, this won't help. Other than replacing the MAF, I don't know how you can test it.
Another possibility are the upstream O2 (oxygen) sensors. You can unplug them (this will cause the check engine light to come on) and drive the car for a tank of gas and see what the results are. This won't hurt the car.
Depending on the mileage of the car, you don't want to flush the transmission. If the car has over 100K on it, DON'T DO IT! You can drain the oil from the trans and re-fill it (about 4 quarts), but don't flush it. The sluggish performance you talk about is not because of the transmission, it is the engine not running right.
Spark plugs and air filter and stuff should be changed as regular maintenance, but these things wouldn't cause such a severe drop in gas mileage. The fuel filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter and shouldn't need changing. For the maintenance schedule, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/MA.pdf
Start reading at page 4, but starting at page 7 is where it gives you a schedule for changing things.
Another possibility are the upstream O2 (oxygen) sensors. You can unplug them (this will cause the check engine light to come on) and drive the car for a tank of gas and see what the results are. This won't hurt the car.
Depending on the mileage of the car, you don't want to flush the transmission. If the car has over 100K on it, DON'T DO IT! You can drain the oil from the trans and re-fill it (about 4 quarts), but don't flush it. The sluggish performance you talk about is not because of the transmission, it is the engine not running right.
Spark plugs and air filter and stuff should be changed as regular maintenance, but these things wouldn't cause such a severe drop in gas mileage. The fuel filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter and shouldn't need changing. For the maintenance schedule, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/MA.pdf
Start reading at page 4, but starting at page 7 is where it gives you a schedule for changing things.
I have heard it before but never with a logical explanation. My feeling is that good lubrication is better than poor lubrication, hence new fluid with no dirt/sludge should be better than old/dirty fluid with lots of sludge.
Continuing the argument: If the sludge somehow prevents my transmission from slipping, then my transmission is almost certainly on its last leg and this temporary condition will not persist for very long.
I know that's not what the wisdom on this forum says, but what exactly is wrong with my argument?
03-06-2014, 08:57 PM
Re. AT flush, and your "DON"T DO IT" recommendation for cars with more than 100,000 miles .....
I have heard it before but never with a logical explanation. My feeling is that good lubrication is better than poor lubrication, hence new fluid with no dirt/sludge should be better than old/dirty fluid with lots of sludge.
Continuing the argument: If the sludge somehow prevents my transmission from slipping, then my transmission is almost certainly on its last leg and this temporary condition will not persist for very long.
I know that's not what the wisdom on this forum says, but what exactly is wrong with my argument?
I have heard it before but never with a logical explanation. My feeling is that good lubrication is better than poor lubrication, hence new fluid with no dirt/sludge should be better than old/dirty fluid with lots of sludge.
Continuing the argument: If the sludge somehow prevents my transmission from slipping, then my transmission is almost certainly on its last leg and this temporary condition will not persist for very long.
I know that's not what the wisdom on this forum says, but what exactly is wrong with my argument?
If sludge was holding the transmission together, you're right in that the transmission is on its last legs.
What I believe is the reason is in some respects similar to the sludge theory but not the same.
First off, the automatic transmission does not build up sludge. But it does build up varnish. Transmission oil (ATF) is loaded with chemicals to to prevent varnish buildup. If you ever need penetrating oil and don't have any, try ATF. It's not as good as PB Blaster, but it works in a lot of situations. Anyway, back to transmissions. Just like engine oil, the chemicals in ATF get used up (or depleted) and varnish will start to build up in the transmission, so an oil change is beneficial. Fresh ATF with fresh chemicals will dissolve any varnish.
But I don't think that removing varnish is what makes a transmission self destruct after a flush. Varnish will hinder parts from moving that operate in close tolerances. Allowing these parts to move freely is a good thing.
What I think happens is that the flush process weakens the bond of the friction material on the clutch plates. Then the fresh ATF with all its chemicals causes the friction material to come off and you have metal on metal grinding and transmission failure.
That's my theory. I would like to know the actual reason just like everyone else. But the reality is that older transmissions have a habit of self destructing after a flush.
03-06-2014, 09:15 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
I don't have any technical information as to why transmission flushes cause failures on higher mileage transmissions. I can only go with real world happenings. The explanation of "the sludge holds it together" sounds sort of logical but I don't know if there is any truth in it.
If sludge was holding the transmission together, you're right in that the transmission is on its last legs.
What I believe is the reason is in some respects similar to the sludge theory but not the same.
First off, the automatic transmission does not build up sludge. But it does build up varnish. Transmission oil (ATF) is loaded with chemicals to to prevent varnish buildup. If you ever need penetrating oil and don't have any, try ATF. It's not as good as PB Blaster, but it works in a lot of situations. Anyway, back to transmissions. Just like engine oil, the chemicals in ATF get used up (or depleted) and varnish will start to build up in the transmission, so an oil change is beneficial. Fresh ATF with fresh chemicals will dissolve any varnish.
But I don't think that removing varnish is what makes a transmission self destruct after a flush. Varnish will hinder parts from moving that operate in close tolerances. Allowing these parts to move freely is a good thing.
What I think happens is that the flush process weakens the bond of the friction material on the clutch plates. Then the fresh ATF with all its chemicals causes the friction material to come off and you have metal on metal grinding and transmission failure.
That's my theory. I would like to know the actual reason just like everyone else. But the reality is that older transmissions have a habit of self destructing after a flush.
If sludge was holding the transmission together, you're right in that the transmission is on its last legs.
What I believe is the reason is in some respects similar to the sludge theory but not the same.
First off, the automatic transmission does not build up sludge. But it does build up varnish. Transmission oil (ATF) is loaded with chemicals to to prevent varnish buildup. If you ever need penetrating oil and don't have any, try ATF. It's not as good as PB Blaster, but it works in a lot of situations. Anyway, back to transmissions. Just like engine oil, the chemicals in ATF get used up (or depleted) and varnish will start to build up in the transmission, so an oil change is beneficial. Fresh ATF with fresh chemicals will dissolve any varnish.
But I don't think that removing varnish is what makes a transmission self destruct after a flush. Varnish will hinder parts from moving that operate in close tolerances. Allowing these parts to move freely is a good thing.
What I think happens is that the flush process weakens the bond of the friction material on the clutch plates. Then the fresh ATF with all its chemicals causes the friction material to come off and you have metal on metal grinding and transmission failure.
That's my theory. I would like to know the actual reason just like everyone else. But the reality is that older transmissions have a habit of self destructing after a flush.
If your theory about "weakening the bond of the friction material" is correct (and I think it is, at least in principle), then just dropping the pan and getting rid of accumulated "varnish" should not hurt, right? Not unless it's the new AT fluid that's weakening the bond .... but that seems a bit far-fetched.
So, why am I afraid to drop the plan and clean up?
03-06-2014, 09:48 PM
This is the best explanation I have heard so far.
If your theory about "weakening the bond of the friction material" is correct (and I think it is, at least in principle), then just dropping the pan and getting rid of accumulated "varnish" should not hurt, right? Not unless it's the new AT fluid that's weakening the bond .... but that seems a bit far-fetched.
So, why am I afraid to drop the plan and clean up?
Flushing involves not only increased pressure but harsh chemicals as well. Bad.
03-07-2014, 07:46 AM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 8
The MAF is a good possibility. You can get a can of MAF cleaner and try it, but if the MAF is truly bad, this won't help. Other than replacing the MAF, I don't know how you can test it.
Another possibility are the upstream O2 (oxygen) sensors. You can unplug them (this will cause the check engine light to come on) and drive the car for a tank of gas and see what the results are. This won't hurt the car.
Depending on the mileage of the car, you don't want to flush the transmission. If the car has over 100K on it, DON'T DO IT! You can drain the oil from the trans and re-fill it (about 4 quarts), but don't flush it. The sluggish performance you talk about is not because of the transmission, it is the engine not running right.
Spark plugs and air filter and stuff should be changed as regular maintenance, but these things wouldn't cause such a severe drop in gas mileage. The fuel filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter and shouldn't need changing. For the maintenance schedule, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/MA.pdf
Start reading at page 4, but starting at page 7 is where it gives you a schedule for changing things.
Another possibility are the upstream O2 (oxygen) sensors. You can unplug them (this will cause the check engine light to come on) and drive the car for a tank of gas and see what the results are. This won't hurt the car.
Depending on the mileage of the car, you don't want to flush the transmission. If the car has over 100K on it, DON'T DO IT! You can drain the oil from the trans and re-fill it (about 4 quarts), but don't flush it. The sluggish performance you talk about is not because of the transmission, it is the engine not running right.
Spark plugs and air filter and stuff should be changed as regular maintenance, but these things wouldn't cause such a severe drop in gas mileage. The fuel filter is supposed to be a "lifetime" filter and shouldn't need changing. For the maintenance schedule, click this link:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/MA.pdf
Start reading at page 4, but starting at page 7 is where it gives you a schedule for changing things.
As far as the trans, I will probably just try the drain/refill. What if shifting slow and slight jerking/harsh shifts still occur? It's not horrible, but slightly noticeable if I'm listening or feeling for it or getting on it.
03-07-2014, 08:23 AM
If an oil change is going to help this, it will take a little longer than the harsh flush process. It will be a gradual disappearing as the varnish buildup is dissolved.
03-07-2014, 08:36 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 20
Do you think if I find a pre-03 cluster, I could use the socket in there and use that since they seem to be easier to take out?
03-09-2014, 04:55 PM
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 6
03 Maxima Transmission Problem
hi i rebuilt my 03 maxima transmission and im having problems with getting my car to go in to reverse it drives fine goes trough all 4 gears no problem but it wont reverse. i checked the Band servo piston and turns out its not getting oil in it i even took it out turn car on and put it reverse to see if its getting any oil and its not but i have not idea why its not getting oil in. the solenoids we replaced with brand new ones. Can anyone plz help me im all out of ideas