Help me dissect this sucker
Help me dissect this sucker
I ran my auto 4th gen at GLD with a bunch of other midwest Maximas. However, I ran with a dead knock sensor (brake torquing to 1800rpms). Here's my timeslip:
r/t: .378
60': 2.361
330: 6.611
1/8: 10.074 @ 70.78
1000: 13.032
1/4: 15.569 @ 89.53
What I want to know is, is this time right or am I slow considering my mods? They are:
Y-pipe, high flow cat, GReddy SP2
TS ECU (no rev limiter upgrade)
00 VI wired to open at 4600rpms
Rubber: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 225/45/17 with less than 1,000 miles
Wheels: 17" SSR GT-1
The tire/wheel combo weighs in at the same weight as the stock tire/wheel. Would I be incorrect in assuming I'd be well into the 14s with a properly working ks?
~THT
r/t: .378
60': 2.361
330: 6.611
1/8: 10.074 @ 70.78
1000: 13.032
1/4: 15.569 @ 89.53
What I want to know is, is this time right or am I slow considering my mods? They are:
Y-pipe, high flow cat, GReddy SP2
TS ECU (no rev limiter upgrade)
00 VI wired to open at 4600rpms
Rubber: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 225/45/17 with less than 1,000 miles
Wheels: 17" SSR GT-1
The tire/wheel combo weighs in at the same weight as the stock tire/wheel. Would I be incorrect in assuming I'd be well into the 14s with a properly working ks?
~THT
What's the elevation of the track where you raced? The time is slow (its at stock time!) but also the mph is low as well, you should not be below 93mph AS FAR AS I KNOW, even for an auto given your mods (no pun intended). Was your tranny slipping? Also, try to get your 60' down to 2.2x, that 60' can make you or break you.
Get that KS replaced man, its worth the cuts on ur hands to replace it.
Get that KS replaced man, its worth the cuts on ur hands to replace it.
00 VI should open at 4,600, not 5xxx like the MEVI. KS has been changed already and my car feels a lot stronger. Elevation should be close to sea level as the track was in WI.
Originally Posted by THT
I ran my auto 4th gen at GLD with a bunch of other midwest Maximas. However, I ran with a dead knock sensor (brake torquing to 1800rpms). Here's my timeslip:
r/t: .378
60': 2.361
330: 6.611
1/8: 10.074 @ 70.78
1000: 13.032
1/4: 15.569 @ 89.53
What I want to know is, is this time right or am I slow considering my mods? They are:
Y-pipe, high flow cat, GReddy SP2
TS ECU (no rev limiter upgrade)
00 VI wired to open at 4600rpms
Rubber: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 225/45/17 with less than 1,000 miles
Wheels: 17" SSR GT-1
The tire/wheel combo weighs in at the same weight as the stock tire/wheel. Would I be incorrect in assuming I'd be well into the 14s with a properly working ks?
~THT
r/t: .378
60': 2.361
330: 6.611
1/8: 10.074 @ 70.78
1000: 13.032
1/4: 15.569 @ 89.53
What I want to know is, is this time right or am I slow considering my mods? They are:
Y-pipe, high flow cat, GReddy SP2
TS ECU (no rev limiter upgrade)
00 VI wired to open at 4600rpms
Rubber: Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 225/45/17 with less than 1,000 miles
Wheels: 17" SSR GT-1
The tire/wheel combo weighs in at the same weight as the stock tire/wheel. Would I be incorrect in assuming I'd be well into the 14s with a properly working ks?
~THT
That time is slow for your mods. What was the weather?, that plays a big part. Those wheels and tires are hurting you even though they weight the same as stock, because the mass is further away from the hub. The knock sensor is definately hurting you if it is bad.
Your launch need some work, but the low trap speed shows that you are down on power.
Perfect weather. Mild temps and dry. The track is known for being slow but I saw plenty of lightly modded (read: I/Y) auto 4th gens running flat 15s. I wasn't pulling any codes besides 0304 for KS at the time. I'm going to track the car again soon with my stock steelies and operating KS. Come Hell or high water, I'm going to hit 14..
96Sleeper, what mods did you have to run that 14.2?
~THT
96Sleeper, what mods did you have to run that 14.2?
~THT
with a dead KS, your car also goes into that crap safe mode doesnt it? I have no doubt in my mind youll hit 14s. When are you going to the track again? Maybe ill join you, im trying to break 14s without the VI or ECU first. If i can hook a 2.2X 60', i should be around there. That track sucked that day, probably just because it was the free run day or w/e. They should have it better prepped on full pay days. It was very good last year.
you are coming off the line too slow... work on your reaction time/ 60'... you kinda have to time the green light and take off sonner than you are now, but not so soon to get a red light.. the faster you take off after green the better your time...
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
the faster you take off after green the better your time...
WRONG!!!!! Please know what you are talking about before you give information to others.
tell me how the drag strip works then... you don't see drag cars sit there and wait till they are ready to go.. they get reaction times of .79 and under sometimes. I even saw a perfect time of 0.00 from the JEG's drag car and most of the time the fastest off the line wins...
stop telling me I'm wrong and post facts..
stop telling me I'm wrong and post facts..
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
tell me how the drag strip works then... you don't see drag cars sit there and wait till they are ready to go.. they get reaction times of .79 and under sometimes. I even saw a perfect time of 0.00 from the JEG's drag car and most of the time the fastest off the line wins...
stop telling me I'm wrong and post facts..
stop telling me I'm wrong and post facts..
Originally Posted by Tek-Niq
see, so I'm not completly wrong then.... or am I...
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Well, in the context of 99% of 1/4 times posted on here or any other website your wrong but if you were at an NHRA event you would be right.
thanx for your reply, very respectful answer, unlike some of these members...
Like mike said getting a better R/T can save your @ss in a competition, whether E.T. bracket or Heads Up. I won by a hair against a slightly faster Mustang 5.0 because he had a sh*tty reaction time, but his E.T. was still better than mine.
Those who go to the track alot will notice this. It can seem like two cars leave the line at roughly the same time and it can seem like it is a close race but then you see the times and one car could have ran a .5 sec faster. That .5 is all in the RT. This is why if your out "street racing" just because car X keeps up or beats car Y does not mean it is a faster car. If you were to see time slips from that street race it could tell a whole other story
which really doesnt make a difference, because if car Y cant get off the line quick enough or cant shift, thats his problem. Car X may not be as fast as car Y, but with those drivers, Car X is faster, and thats all that matters in street racing. Magazine #'s mean nothing if they cant drive the car to its full potential.
Originally Posted by eckohb
Magazine #'s mean nothing if they cant drive the car to its full potential.
MotorTrend tested the 95 5spd to run the 1/4 mile in 15.5secs. Several bone-stock 95 5spds have ran flat 15, and I THINK Neal ran a 14.9 on his old car all stock.
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,thanks ...
