Finally 1/4 runs, (pic, vid, and slip inside)
If would do it under WOT too. Car had no power because of it.
The ecu threw a code which told me what cylinder it was. You can ohm test each injector with a multimeter though. Check the resistance on each one. One should be different than all of the others.
It would misfire at idle. Car sounded cammed lol.
If would do it under WOT too. Car had no power because of it.
The ecu threw a code which told me what cylinder it was. You can ohm test each injector with a multimeter though. Check the resistance on each one. One should be different than all of the others.
If would do it under WOT too. Car had no power because of it.
The ecu threw a code which told me what cylinder it was. You can ohm test each injector with a multimeter though. Check the resistance on each one. One should be different than all of the others.
Get that tranny already! If money is good try to get a transgo shiftkit so you can put in with the tranny. HD2 is what i got.
1.Re-gap all your spark plugs.
2.Make sure you have no vacuum leak. *Spray brake cleaner all around the manifold and injectors*
3.I would lower the boost see if that makes any difference, if it does then you have an ignition problem.
4.If you already haven't maybe do a grounding kit, and recheck all the ignition wires from the EU to ECU.
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If your misfire occurs when you go WOT, it could be a ignition spark related issue.
1.Re-gap all your spark plugs.
2.Make sure you have no vacuum leak. *Spray brake cleaner all around the manifold and injectors*
3.I would lower the boost see if that makes any difference, if it does then you have an ignition problem.
4.If you already haven't maybe do a grounding kit, and recheck all the ignition wires from the EU to ECU.
1.Re-gap all your spark plugs.
2.Make sure you have no vacuum leak. *Spray brake cleaner all around the manifold and injectors*
3.I would lower the boost see if that makes any difference, if it does then you have an ignition problem.
4.If you already haven't maybe do a grounding kit, and recheck all the ignition wires from the EU to ECU.
1. He's regapped his plugs at least 3-4 times.
2. I wonder how much vacuum it pulls at WOT at 5000+ RPMs when he's getting the misfire... I mean really. Vacuum?
3. He's run it on minimum WG boost, and also makes less boost in lower gears due to the giant turbo and seems to still get the misfire.
4. A few others have mentioned the grounding kit, to which he responded that he has meticulously installed a grounding kit, then checked and rechecked it.
Hope you can get the problem solved, streetz... Usually a stuck or bad injector will make it run like crap 100% of the time.
Last edited by sparks03max; Dec 25, 2010 at 09:49 AM.
hey, new idea have you never measured the resistance cross different point on the body and harness to confirm the grounds are really good. You could have a bad or slighty broken wire and it will be a ground but not good enough under a heavy load.
Also do you have anything sharing a ground or grounded close to any audio equipment if so move it
Last have you attempted to disconnect the charge side and drive the car n/a to see if it still happens
Also do you have anything sharing a ground or grounded close to any audio equipment if so move it
Last have you attempted to disconnect the charge side and drive the car n/a to see if it still happens
Ok this is really the last thing since you never answered when I asked if you measured the voltage at the coils, ecu, jns, eu and injectors while driving the car. Doing this will also help to narrow down the problem since you don't have a super duper scan tool
This happened several times with my UTEC. +1
Sparks thanks for replying for me
I havent done that yet, I plan go log with Blatz and EU at same time, blatz shows you voltages and alot more things. I gotta get me a digital voltmeter since mine is one of them crappy analog, then run some wires to the coils and check voltages while at WOT, the same do for the EU and INJ, not js cuz that was disconnected completely and still missed, good tips man.
Also for the sound equipment, actually I recently disconnected my sub's amp because it would have noise even when not on, so as it is right now, there is no audio equipment other than stock.
I havent ran the car NA yet, I dont wanna disconnect the charge pipe and WOT because I fear i'll overspin and hurt the turbo, Instead I might cut an old Tial WG spring I have which is already 7psi, so it can open very very soon and not get any boost.
Also for the sound equipment, actually I recently disconnected my sub's amp because it would have noise even when not on, so as it is right now, there is no audio equipment other than stock.
I havent ran the car NA yet, I dont wanna disconnect the charge pipe and WOT because I fear i'll overspin and hurt the turbo, Instead I might cut an old Tial WG spring I have which is already 7psi, so it can open very very soon and not get any boost.
Last edited by streetzlegend; Dec 26, 2010 at 10:31 AM.
Thanks, my goal was to go low 12's maybe high 11s, I think mid 12's is possible once the misfire is gone, or even low 12s. Without nitrous. But for the first time with this setup and first time in about 2 years to the 1/4, I think I did ok.
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A 117 trap could take you well into the 11s if you can find a way to build boost off the line and in 1st gear (without nitrous). If only you could use a 2-step and transbrake to build boost at the tree...
Yeah, 117 trap is moving. You'll get 11s, just gonna need some more seat time to figure out what chages you'll need to make.
Well I got the 2step, but with a stall of 1500 the backfires are way way too violent (too much fuel being ignited since its at such low rpm), when I stall up the converter even almost at WOT still dosnt spin the turbo to build 1psi. So in my case, nitrous is needed, its already setup for it, just a matter of going to the track with it.
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Well I got the 2step, but with a stall of 1500 the backfires are way way too violent (too much fuel being ignited since its at such low rpm), when I stall up the converter even almost at WOT still dosnt spin the turbo to build 1psi. So in my case, nitrous is needed, its already setup for it, just a matter of going to the track with it.
Nice times bro , you didnt call us up ? I would have gone with ya up there...
btw I saw a very nice looking 5.5gen but was parked, didnt run. Black with what looked to be g37 rims.
My bad, I actually wasnt going to tell anyone at all, well I didnt just a couple of my mustang buddies. Didnt know what times to expect and didnt want to hype it up to run crappy times you get me? lol. Now that I know what the car can do, ill hit you up next time. Cuz next time I am going all out, im calling out Corry! jk jk! lol
btw I saw a very nice looking 5.5gen but was parked, didnt run. Black with what looked to be g37 rims.
btw I saw a very nice looking 5.5gen but was parked, didnt run. Black with what looked to be g37 rims.
Congrats Streetz, I know its not the best the car can do but its a start. I want to go back to the track in the spring to see what the new set up bring. Probably just more wheel spin. lol And the misfire, man that sucks. Good luck.
Thanks man, yeah hopefully I figure out the missing one day
Question for everyone, I have learned that with grounds you cant always share many devices with a single ground, does the same apply with positive? 12v that feeds the ECU I have it T'ed and also feeding the J&S, Suprastick, and EU. Should I find another source and get load off the ecu's power?
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Question for everyone, I have learned that with grounds you cant always share many devices with a single ground, does the same apply with positive? 12v that feeds the ECU I have it T'ed and also feeding the J&S, Suprastick, and EU. Should I find another source and get load off the ecu's power?
Interesting, ill change it ASAP. Ill get feed from the heated seats, lol thank god for those cuz iv ran out of 12v source lol
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You could always make yourself a small distribution block straight off the battery for 12v stuff inside the car. Looks pretty clean and works great.
Hopefully this is your last stop and kicking the gremlin out on your misfires.
Yeah eventually ill make a little block for ground and another for 12v, but meh. for now the mess stays lol
I was actually planning on running a thick wire, to feed all the devices. Didnt think it would be an issue
Also make sure your using the same size gauge wires when connecting the EU / J&S , whatever gauge the harness comes with , use the same gauge, dont try to go bigger either as a bigger guage (+) can surge and burn out the units.
Hopefully this is your last stop and kicking the gremlin out on your misfires.
Hopefully this is your last stop and kicking the gremlin out on your misfires.
as long as the ECU gets a signal its good , if you go bigger guage this could cause issues , whatever gauge wire came off the harness, go with the same size , just solder them in and heat shrink wrap so it doesnt get expose to weather and you should be good, the grounds are usually the suspect for misfire or for any ecu not reading correctly
So... improving the 12v sources did absolutely nothing. still missing. I wanna put in a new or newer crank pulley cuz mine has the rubber cracked all around. I am wondering if its wobbling a little bit at higher rpms and misaligning the teeth for the sensor.
did you ever check the voltage while driving under load at high rpms doing so may save you alot of hassle
Nah man not yet, for some reason Nissan Datascan dosnt wanna save logs. Havent really had time or felt like doing anything with the car. Prob wont do anything till the next holidays like spring break or something, I'm not going to keep wasting money, time, energy to get nothing in return. Looks like bad luck won this time.
Nah man not yet, for some reason Nissan Datascan dosnt wanna save logs. Havent really had time or felt like doing anything with the car. Prob wont do anything till the next holidays like spring break or something, I'm not going to keep wasting money, time, energy to get nothing in return. Looks like bad luck won this time.
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