Tiny bubbles appearing on the dipstick
#3
The engine has to be running to check the transmission fluid level, so there may be a few bubbles in the fluid. If there are a lot, it's an indication of the wrong level. Too much fluid raises the level to the point that it gets stirred up my rotating parts. This causes air to mix into the fluid, and fluid pressures will be low. This can cause slipping, that generates heat and burns out the clutches/bands.
#4
Originally posted by brubenstein
The engine has to be running to check the transmission fluid level, so there may be a few bubbles in the fluid. If there are a lot, it's an indication of the wrong level. Too much fluid raises the level to the point that it gets stirred up my rotating parts. This causes air to mix into the fluid, and fluid pressures will be low. This can cause slipping, that generates heat and burns out the clutches/bands.
The engine has to be running to check the transmission fluid level, so there may be a few bubbles in the fluid. If there are a lot, it's an indication of the wrong level. Too much fluid raises the level to the point that it gets stirred up my rotating parts. This causes air to mix into the fluid, and fluid pressures will be low. This can cause slipping, that generates heat and burns out the clutches/bands.
The level I get falls into the "Hot" range. I check the dipstick on the "Park" gear, only after driving around 10 miles and then moving the Transmission through all the gears
slowly.
As far as bubbles go, they seeem to be a lot, are are very tiny. I know for sure that my trans is not overfill.
BTW, this has happened since I recently did the drain and refill on my trans about 1,000 miles ago? Is it possible I might have introduced air into the system while doing the drain and refill? I do remember taking out the dipstick while doing it, should I haved left it in? Does this make any sense?
#5
Originally posted by superdesi
it possible I might have introduced air into the system while doing the drain and refill? I do remember taking out the dipstick while doing it, should I haved left it in? Does this make any sense?
it possible I might have introduced air into the system while doing the drain and refill? I do remember taking out the dipstick while doing it, should I haved left it in? Does this make any sense?
#6
only thing that comes to mind here could be some weird tranny fluid that foams easily. possibly not enough detergents or anti-foaming agents in it when it was produced.. what brand/type of fluid are you using?
do you remember how much you added when you did the drain/fill?
Usually I only have to add about 3.5qts when I drain/fill mine.
do you remember how much you added when you did the drain/fill?
Usually I only have to add about 3.5qts when I drain/fill mine.
#7
Originally posted by Matt93GXE
only thing that comes to mind here could be some weird tranny fluid that foams easily. possibly not enough detergents or anti-foaming agents in it when it was produced.. what brand/type of fluid are you using?
do you remember how much you added when you did the drain/fill?
Usually I only have to add about 3.5qts when I drain/fill mine.
only thing that comes to mind here could be some weird tranny fluid that foams easily. possibly not enough detergents or anti-foaming agents in it when it was produced.. what brand/type of fluid are you using?
do you remember how much you added when you did the drain/fill?
Usually I only have to add about 3.5qts when I drain/fill mine.
I am using Valvoline DuraBlend Synthetic Blend ATF.
When I drained it, it seemed to me that about 3 Quarts came out. So I put 3 Quarts of the ATF in. I drove around for about 10 miles, checked the level, and found it to be over the "Hot" mark. So I took some out and found that it came to 2.75 Quarts.
I religiously check all my dipsticks every few days. I noticed that if I checked the trans dipstick in the morning without starting the car, there were no bubbles.
And these bubbles are super tiny and all around the dipstick fluid. Maybe I should do a drain and refill again and add some of that Marvel Mystery Oil that Brubenstein recommends.
Should I leave the dipstick in while doing my next drain and refill?
#8
If the fluid isn't "foamy" don't worry about it.
Only, I repeat, ONLY put MMO in a few days before doing a full fluid exhcange. Its only purpose is to disolve varnish and gum. It's NOT a fluid fortifier/additive. After it's done its job, you want it out of there.
Only, I repeat, ONLY put MMO in a few days before doing a full fluid exhcange. Its only purpose is to disolve varnish and gum. It's NOT a fluid fortifier/additive. After it's done its job, you want it out of there.
#9
Originally posted by brubenstein
If the fluid isn't "foamy" don't worry about it.
Only, I repeat, ONLY put MMO in a few days before doing a full fluid exhcange. Its only purpose is to disolve varnish and gum. It's NOT a fluid fortifier/additive. After it's done its job, you want it out of there.
If the fluid isn't "foamy" don't worry about it.
Only, I repeat, ONLY put MMO in a few days before doing a full fluid exhcange. Its only purpose is to disolve varnish and gum. It's NOT a fluid fortifier/additive. After it's done its job, you want it out of there.
Will enough of it come out in the drain and refill?
#11
<<I wouldn't do, but that doesn't mean it would hurt anything. I'm just a cautious old man, and tranmissions are too expensive to run Science Fair experiments on.>> brub
You sound exactly like my father, thats why I was surprised to see you recommend the Marvel Mystery Oil. He's usually very cautious about those kind of additives, when I considered adding in some kind of "Lucas- Engine Quiet" fluid to my motor oil, to magically cure the knocking sound coming out of the motor when the car was cold (Turned out to be timing belt tensioners), he was pretty outraged and told me the only thing that would do is make it worse. The only thing he isnt against is a bottle of Fuel Injector cleaner once in a while.
So far I called up Bay Ridge Nissan and they told me about $100 for the full flush, I'm also going to call up Queens and Kings Nissan tomorrow just to compare prices. I was just curious if you really thought putting in the MMO in my situation would be really, really worth it or is it just something that you recommend but I could do without it in the long run (Meaning you cleaned out some potential old deposits to be super safe). Some statistics:
1994 GXE original tranny, 100++ miles, last 2 years have been hard NYC driving. First 100K was all highway miles, many 500+ mile trips. Last and only service in the 2.5 years I've had it was done on 5/18/00, about 15K miles ago, only the $40 fluid fill. Fluid isnt gritty, doesnt smell burnt, just a tad brownish. The reason I mention all this info is because I've heard sometimes messing with it and letting all the old fluid out could actually make things go worse. Thanks for your time, I'd really appreciate any info.
You sound exactly like my father, thats why I was surprised to see you recommend the Marvel Mystery Oil. He's usually very cautious about those kind of additives, when I considered adding in some kind of "Lucas- Engine Quiet" fluid to my motor oil, to magically cure the knocking sound coming out of the motor when the car was cold (Turned out to be timing belt tensioners), he was pretty outraged and told me the only thing that would do is make it worse. The only thing he isnt against is a bottle of Fuel Injector cleaner once in a while.
So far I called up Bay Ridge Nissan and they told me about $100 for the full flush, I'm also going to call up Queens and Kings Nissan tomorrow just to compare prices. I was just curious if you really thought putting in the MMO in my situation would be really, really worth it or is it just something that you recommend but I could do without it in the long run (Meaning you cleaned out some potential old deposits to be super safe). Some statistics:
1994 GXE original tranny, 100++ miles, last 2 years have been hard NYC driving. First 100K was all highway miles, many 500+ mile trips. Last and only service in the 2.5 years I've had it was done on 5/18/00, about 15K miles ago, only the $40 fluid fill. Fluid isnt gritty, doesnt smell burnt, just a tad brownish. The reason I mention all this info is because I've heard sometimes messing with it and letting all the old fluid out could actually make things go worse. Thanks for your time, I'd really appreciate any info.
#12
The reason I mention all this info is because I've heard sometimes messing with it and letting all the old fluid out could actually make things go worse. Thanks for your time, I'd really appreciate any info. [/B][/QUOTE]
Yeah, I have heard that to, but only about American cars. My ex g/f drove a '91 GXE. I took it in for service one day and found out the transmission fluid was burned. The car had 172k miles on it. I had it flushed and refilled and it ran like a champ.
Yeah, I have heard that to, but only about American cars. My ex g/f drove a '91 GXE. I took it in for service one day and found out the transmission fluid was burned. The car had 172k miles on it. I had it flushed and refilled and it ran like a champ.
#13
When I started on my transmission "maintance program", a couple of months ago, I only had 44k miles on it. With almost all of it put on by my mother in law, so it wasn't a high milage, abused tranny to begin with. After doing a 5 qt refill, MMO flush, complete fluid exchange with synthetic ATF the transmission acts much better. The differences should be greater on a transmission with more miles. You really do need some sort of a flush agent to disolve the varnish and gum in the transmission to get it to work at its best. This is different than putting in some magic elixer that's supposed to repair mechanical wear and damage.
For NYC driving, you really want synthetic ATF and a cooler. I know this from up close and personal experience.
For NYC driving, you really want synthetic ATF and a cooler. I know this from up close and personal experience.
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