My front passenger & both rear windows are not rolling down when using the master switch from the driver side but i can roll them up. All windows works fine using the individual switches.

i don't think the master switch is the culprit but i could be wrong. isn't there a control "brain" box for the power windows under the steering column?


on a different question: what engine comes with the 98 Infiniti J30?


thanks,

 

Just to try the obvious first, did you have the push-button next to the controls on or off? i think the switch says Power on/off i could be mistaken i don't have my car with me, but anyway that controls whether you can control the other windows from the driverside controll.

 

I wanna say the last model year for the J30 was 97. I could be wrong though. It would be the VG30DE.

 

No it doesnt the on/off is a saftey feature so you can turn off all the other switchs except the Drivers master switches, its a saftey feature for little kids

 

and just to add i have this problem to time to time and i think i read some were that the circuit board goes bad http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB92-007.pdf

 

[QUOTE=MAXI]My front passenger & both rear windows are not rolling down when using the master switch from the driver side but i can roll them up. All windows works fine using the individual switches.

i don't think the master switch is the culprit but i could be wrong. isn't there a control "brain" box for the power windows under the steering column?


i had to revive this thread, i still have this problem....i recently replaced a white box behind the alarm box under the left side of the steering....i hope that is the power window brain! The problem still exist. any ideas folks

 

i had the exact same problem and replaced the master switch and it fixed it. I bought it off ebay for $20 including shipping. junkyard wanted $40.

 

[QUOTE=MAXI]
Each door has a printed circ board =pcb with logic. The door button pressed: sends a low voltage request signal to the ctrl box. The box supplies 12V for that door win motor.

No continuous +12V supply goes to the doors.

If smtg overloads the electronic pcb's on the doors, the driver door [master] loses ctrl of them first.

What this all means is that maybe there is a short on these signal cables, pcb's on some doors. Needs only 20mA load/drain to short circuit & paralyse the system - water has flown in somewhere? ...oxidized contacts? ...bent cable?

see also: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/13


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I had this problem with the driver's door not controlling 2 of 3 other doors. I went through the FSM troubleshooting which revealed it was a bad drivers door switch. Replaced it and everything was fixed. However as Wiking said, it could be something as simple as corrosion at a connector.

As an aside, I busted open the old drivers door switch and found corrosion of the PCB tracks. If I was adventurous and didn't value my time, I could have possibly repaired it by cleaning and soldering copper wire over the corroded tracks.