Wiking

My battery has been drainin lately. Popped gnd cable off and measured leak current: 0,36A! Daily this means that 24hrs x 0,36 = 8,64A. Five days and batt totally dead... Traced it to alternator charge wire. When I take it off, leak current is 0,01A, good value.

Took regulator connector off, cleaned [warning: the contact grease I tell u to spread all over, is mowing there]. After cleanup [or disconnect?] the leak current dropped to 0,15A. =fifteen days and batt total dead. Still No Good.
This 2-wire connector in the alt, center of pic...



1. Pls measure, gimme your leak current value without alarm system. (Take multimeter, rotate it to the 10A scale, move the probe in 10A measurement terminal. Place probes between battery terminal, and opened cable connector: read leak current.)
2. Alternator internal wirings diagram. Is there, anywhere??? [NOT the nissan fsm crap EL-21]


Take this Alt charge wire (2.) off. Any change in readings?

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

wiking, I chopped off all those connecters on the batt and upgraded with a better batt terminal (party to get ride of all the contact resistance between all those garbage connectors) so I can't help with those measurements. How well is your alt charging? I wonder if you alt might be the culprit, maybe a diode in the rectifier.

Wiking

I've found one place listing GXE hitachi LR190-737 rectifier: Transpo IHR718HD
...and that place does not even sell them for individuals!

I'd like to service my 80k alt myself; so wheres the parts shop sellin these? (shipping whole alt would probably cost honey; new alt from stealership about 800$)

Edit:
I could get a new alt that fits -95 QX, 100A, 240$. Does somebody know, could that fit?

Tarzan

I dunno how the Nissan regulator looks like, but still wanna ask: maybe it makes sense to repair it by replading the rectifier diodes with those from electronic components store? All it does is rectifies AC from two brushes into DC, right? you can just connect wires to the brushes, drill out an old rectifier and connect something like this:

Wiking

Its my only one... I would like to have spares before taking alt out, as its still functional, except drains batt in few days. Rectifier assy must be cheap, but where to find one? Right diodes would do, same problem.

Note: diodes have to stand 70-90 AMPS in a car... std home stereo rectifiers no good.

Tarzan

That's why I pointed to a molded assembly. They have a metal plate on the back and bolt to a heatsink. You should be able to find a proper rectifier bridge at a component store. 'International Rectifier' makes some good ones: http://ec.irf.com/v6/en/US/adirect/i...&punchInID=212

Wiking

Yes, theres some. But the diodes installed in, should be exact the same. Still would like to keep stock like arrangements, all bits inside one 'pack'. Of course I also could buy some biggie tractor alts incl with 240VAC output... hmm. Maybe I just scavenge some ol broken alt, with possibly underrated diode, eh.

Or resign: buy one bluebird/stanza 70A reman alt every year, plenty shops waiting to get me...

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Wiking, you still don't know if its the alt or not. but the alt can be opened up pretty easily, I'd reccomend a rubber mallet when seperating the alt.

Why are parts so expensive over there? did you call around.

800=?USD

Wiking

FYI: this time solution came from Nissan stealership. Nissan diode bridge (rectifier) 63€ and regulator 50€. That makes 113$... Writeup etc will come after installation.

Currently the leak current (=batt drain) jumps randomly between 1,2A - 0,45A.

Wiking

New rectifier, regulator is now installed. Charge voltage 14.6V! The alt leak is now 0.1A. Hmm.

---> quite soon the charge voltage dropped to 14.2V, warm


Preliminary alt repair doc version is available here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23