Phoenix

Yeah, long time, no post...

But I have a question... Lately, when i go to accelerate, mostly in higher gears, my revs jump after I let off the clutch and then the car doesn't really start accelerating until after the rpms come back down, like it's not catching when i first let go. Actually, it happens whether I'm clutching or not.

Example: I'm doing 70 on the highway, I go to pass a truck so i give it a little gas. The revs jump from 3000ish to 5000ish then come back down. now the max is still doing 70 here, when the rpms come back down to 3000, then it'll actually accelerate up to where i want it. This even happens with the cruise control on, when I hit the Accel button or if i get to a hill or anything else that would require a little more gas. It's rather annoying and it seems like something I should worry about.

Thank god it's tax return time...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Sounds like your clutch needs to be replaced...

subs1000w

yup +1 how many miles are on your clutch

Phoenix

Crap... I don't know how many miles are on it (atleast 10,000 since I bought the car in September...) The clutch is exactly what I was thinking was wrong, but it's also exactly what I wanted you guys not to say. Why doesn't cheap stuff ever break?

Any recommendations on a good, durable, comfortable for traffic driving clutch?

Drivin Maxima

iTrader: (7)

yeah, I would put faith in the slipping clutch as the culprit too........as for a good clutch, the Exedy setup is supposed to be pretty good, along with the ACT I think.........If you have the cash then I would throw a Fidanza in there too if I were you.............if you have the loot of course

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I would take the Exedy Stage 1 (not the Exedy OEM replacement) over the ACT.

I have an ACT and the PP is much stiffer than the Exedy. You get used to it, but I still don't like it in stop-and-go traffic. Superman Jeff says it's no problem, but he commutes in hellish Seattle traffic with his ACT (or did until he upgraded to a G35 sedan).

es_amixam

iTrader: (9)

I replaced my stock clutch with an Exedy Stage 1 last November and I'd definitely recommend it. Since then, I've been driving mostly around town and haven't felt it to be stiff at all.

todamax

iTrader: (6)

See here for most of my opinion on the clutch/fidanza issue. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=452558

If it was a commuter car and go fast mods are not your goal, just go stock.

Phoenix

Top priorities:
Reliability (234K on the clock and averaging about 1500mi a month)
Gas Mileage (I'm at 30+mpg consistently)

So no, go fast is not a goal. Not yet, maybe in the future when I have other means of transport and can afford to have the max down for a few days here and there.

Comfort is also a concern (as i do 1500 miles a month). Most is highway driving so seats are a bigger concern than clutch there, but if it's not open highway it's stop and go Virginia Beach or DC traffic. I've got a pretty decent amount of money coming in from tax returns, so money's not as big a concern as usual.

What's typical labor for a clutch run? What tools are required if i decide to tackle this myself?

subs1000w

labor would be around 5 hours so oyu need to find out your local rates proboly around 60/hr

only basic tools are needed except the 36mm axle socket which you can rent at the zone

OBEEWON

Stay Away From Centerforce!!!!!

Phoenix

Is this coming from personal experience, Obeewon?

I'm up in Carlisle, PA most weekends, do you have any reccomendations of shops in the Dauphin/Cumberland area?

OBEEWON

5 hours? I did mine in 2, and that was with a lunch break and i changed a whole bunch of boots... Do it yourself, too much money for a shop to do it.

OBEEWON

yes, I had a Centerforce dual friction whatever piece of crap. I did have alot of power into my car and I drag raced every Sat night, but it was supposed to be a "performance" clutch. It would heat up really quick and slip like my stock clutch did when it went bad.


Im the last person you should ask about a shop to go to. The few times I have gone I have had TERRIBLE expiriences. I have sworn that if I cant do it myself Im selling whatever it is.

If you can get some spare time go ahead and try it yourself. Its really not that hard. Just remember to support the engine, remember how you took everything apart and then re assemble. Fairly simple...

Good luck!!

Phoenix

yeah, i suppose $300 saved on a shop install equates to atleast a new set of 6 coil packs... Or a y-pipe... or ton of other stuff...

This sounds like a multi-beer job, though.

todamax

iTrader: (6)

If you have never done it before AND the alxes and hubs haven't been unbolted in a while AND you are working in a driveway AND have no air tools, it WILL take longer than 2 hours. I'm guessing 5 start to finish is about right.

subs1000w

call a few shops and ask what time they book out for a clutch on a max i garuntee you it will be at least 5hr but that doesnt mean it will take that long thats just what they will charge you for and thats how shops make money they do 20hrs worth of work in 10 but still charge for 20

i agree he should try to do it himself its pretty easy just set a weekend aside cause the 1st time always takes awhile

maxmaxima91

Hey... i like my cheap centerforce... 300 to the wheels and not slippin one bit.. and the clutch has over 40000 on it. Maybe you got a bad one. My buddys has the same clutch in the same situation and hasnt had any problems either.

OBEEWON

Oh I believe you, Im just surprised they are ripping off people that much. Ive never had a clutch done at a shop. I saw a repair book once and the times they gave for some things are absurd, 1.8 hours to change the blinker fluid...

subs1000w

i know a few that have them in there stangs and like them but i rarely here good things from others

andy044

iTrader: (5)

a really tell tale sign of clutch slipage is the smell.
does this only happen at higher RPMS (ie 3000+)

clutches can go slow like yours seems to be doing, or all at once.
and you may want to be aware of this because if all of a sudden it goes, its likely that your flywheel will need to be turned.

Phoenix

This is the first clutch I've had go out easy. I'm pretty familiar with the all at once... Including stalling a 240 doing 120 and somehow shattering my clutch disc in the process...

I want to fix this one before it gets to that point but to answer your question, it happens in any gear, at any speed, at any rpm.

maddog12

2000 Chilton Labor guide says:

89-94 Maxima
SOHC 4.1 hours
DOHC 4.6 hours

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

mitchell guide looks like dis:
7....... R&R Clutch Pressure Plate C 5.7 399.00 89-99
DOES NOT include resurface flywheel
8 + A/C interferes add C 0.9 63.00 91-92
9 + Ps interferes add C 0.4 28.00 91-92
10 * R&R Clutch Pilot Bearing Or Bushing C 0.3 21.00 91-92
11 * R&R Clutch Release Bearing C 0.2 14.00 91-92
12 * R&R Flywheel C 0.2 14.00 91-92

OBEEWON

I bet mitchell and chilton didnt work on cars for a living. . . they wrote books.