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Old 08-11-2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
it's exactly 8 screws on a 89-91. 92-94 has 2 screws less.
of course that does not include the screws holding the radio onto the bracket.
Wait, from the looks of it, I have to take off the whole center console where the e brake and shifter is... are you saying just the cover infront of the air/heat and stereo comes off without taking off console?
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:46 AM
  #3962  
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Originally Posted by seans90maxima
Wait, from the looks of it, I have to take off the whole center console where the e brake and shifter is... are you saying just the cover infront of the air/heat and stereo comes off without taking off console?

Yep. on my 93' the front cover just pops off where the heat/ hazzard controlls are. Jut pop it off from the top (carefully with a flat head screwdriver). The plastic around the shifter is the same.

Good luck sorting your stereo. I have been trying to install a new one for 3 days now.
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:48 AM
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so i have a question. the 5 lines that run on the drivers side of the car. 2 rear brake lines and 2 fuel but what is the fifth line?
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by importboy34
so i have a question. the 5 lines that run on the drivers side of the car. 2 rear brake lines and 2 fuel but what is the fifth line?
evap vent line that goes to the charcoal canister
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:16 PM
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really? bc ive been puzzled on trying to figure that out
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by importboy34
really? bc ive been puzzled on trying to figure that out
i mean it's not really something i would sit here and lie to you about

if you look where the fuel lines go down by the firewall under the brake master cylinder you will see the third hardline sticking up and going to another hardline on the driverside frame rail under the airbox and battery
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:37 PM
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I have a transmission issue on my girls 91 Maxima. I've known the car mechanically for 5 years. 293,000 miles. Original owner. Noticed the trans slipping ever so slightly over past 3 years. But only occasionaly. Always kept close eye on fluids. No leaks, rare occasional top off of fluid. Didn't sound like any abnormal whining from TC.
I hadn't driven it in a few months and last week i noticed a clunk on downshifting, maybe a slip. I only drove for about an hour so i don't have a better description. But something had significantly changed.
Today, she goes around corner and trans goes dead. Shifting does nothing. No warning really. Doesn't even try to slip into any gear. Shifter cable is operating.
My mechanical experience: NAISE certified in late 70's. Built several 350 chevy race engines, race cars, owned/repaired chevys since 1968. 21 years Firefighter here in Va. Beach. Higher than average car owner trouble shooting skills, but my life experience is mostly Chevy.
I troubleshoot my Blazer with a laptop and scan codes so I understand those issues. I'm just not familiar with Nissan trans computer issues.
My question is this. Scanning Google tonight for possible solutions and ran across some info that may indicate sensor or computer controlled shut down of trans to prevent trans damage? Is this possible on this year car?
Or would you figure that the trans simple said its done. I tried to find out if there was a filter to change but seeing conflicting info if there even IS a filter on that year. . Nothing else external to try except that , that I know of. It seems as though it could be a sensor shut down as the way it just stopped with not much warning. Hardly any slippage to speak of days/hours/minutes. It really seems like a switch was thrown.
Can you steer me in some direction? Junkyard trans is 130.00. Not bad. I can R&R if I have to but would suck if a computer/sensor is bad.

Thanks,
GLB

Last edited by Kimchoc; 08-12-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:19 PM
  #3968  
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Originally Posted by Kimchoc
I have a transmission issue on my girls 91 Maxima. I've known the car mechanically for 5 years. 293,000 miles. Original owner. Noticed the trans slipping ever so slightly over past 3 years. But only occasionaly. Always kept close eye on fluids. No leaks, rare occasional top off of fluid. Didn't sound like any abnormal whining from TC.
I hadn't driven it in a few months and last week i noticed a clunk on downshifting, maybe a slip. I only drove for about an hour so i don't have a better description. But something had significantly changed.
Today, she goes around corner and trans goes dead. Shifting does nothing. No warning really. Doesn't even try to slip into any gear. Shifter cable is operating.
My mechanical experience: NAISE certified in late 70's. Built several 350 chevy race engines, race cars, owned/repaired chevys since 1968. 21 years Firefighter here in Va. Beach. Higher than average car owner trouble shooting skills, but my life experience is mostly Chevy.
I troubleshoot my Blazer with a laptop and scan codes so I understand those issues. I'm just not familiar with Nissan trans computer issues.
My question is this. Scanning Google tonight for possible solutions and ran across some info that may indicate sensor or computer controlled shut down of trans to prevent trans damage? Is this possible on this year car?
Or would you figure that the trans simple said its done. I tried to find out if there was a filter to change but seeing conflicting info if there even IS a filter on that year. . Nothing else external to try except that , that I know of. It seems as though it could be a sensor shut down as the way it just stopped with not much warning. Hardly any slippage to speak of days/hours/minutes. It really seems like a switch was thrown.
Can you steer me in some direction? Junkyard trans is 130.00. Not bad. I can R&R if I have to but would suck if a computer/sensor is bad.

Thanks,
GLB
glb, trans is probably toast. the auto's for VG powered 3rd gens do, in fact, simply die. if it has nearly 300k miles, it has had its trans replaced/rebuilt in the past. i would be leary of a junkyard auto, as it probably has over 150k on it, already, and is nearing the end of it's build life (they typically die around that mark). if you were to take it to a shop that has many years rebuilding these transmissions, with multiple references, it will cost more, but the "new" trans is less likely to die, again.

(some die slowly, some die quickly... seems to me, more recently, they have been quick deaths)
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:27 PM
  #3969  
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well not really new but new maxima owner. i had an 02 altima 3.5se and was kasey07 on nissanclub.com. lots of good info here and being as the 3.5's are very similar between the altima's and max's i have read alot of good info here. anyway altima is dead and i picked up a 93 max with the dohc engine with 86k original miles for 1k. paint is pretty good only two spots i dont like. mechanically sound. 3 problems with it really. y pipe leaks but i got that taken care of will be ordering a warpspeed y pipe shortly. it whistles above like 3k previous owner said vacuum leak? not sure havnt really got under the hood yet. 3 the check engine light comes on randomly. will come one stay on for a sec and go off. then come back on go off right away... have to get my buddies code reader and see what codes are stored. last problem the radio has power but no sound to the speakers. not really sure on this not big into the electronics part of cars. i can do the mechanical part but im pretty green in the wiring game. so any ideas on the stereo problem its the bose. also any tips or known problem areas with this car. seems like it will be a good DD till i get my SE-R
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by kasey07
well not really new but new maxima owner. i had an 02 altima 3.5se and was kasey07 on nissanclub.com. lots of good info here and being as the 3.5's are very similar between the altima's and max's i have read alot of good info here. anyway altima is dead and i picked up a 93 max with the dohc engine with 86k original miles for 1k. paint is pretty good only two spots i dont like. mechanically sound. 3 problems with it really. y pipe leaks but i got that taken care of will be ordering a warpspeed y pipe shortly. it whistles above like 3k previous owner said vacuum leak? not sure havnt really got under the hood yet. 3 the check engine light comes on randomly. will come one stay on for a sec and go off. then come back on go off right away... have to get my buddies code reader and see what codes are stored. last problem the radio has power but no sound to the speakers. not really sure on this not big into the electronics part of cars. i can do the mechanical part but im pretty green in the wiring game. so any ideas on the stereo problem its the bose. also any tips or known problem areas with this car. seems like it will be a good DD till i get my SE-R
do you have the original bose system? that may be why you don't have sound (head unit gets some faulty solder joints, expected after 15 years) common problem.

no need to wait for your buddies and their code readers.
http://forums.maxima.org/4873104-post18.html

also, window regs. original ones fail fairly often
if the power steering fluid leaks, it will destroy the passenger front control arm bushing.
there are a few more common ailments, but that is about the worst of them.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:44 PM
  #3971  
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ok so i need a new head unit...not bad and at least i dont have to trace wires for hours...feared the front control arm bushing i have heard of it will check tomorrow...and score on the codes thanks!
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:49 PM
  #3972  
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Originally Posted by kasey07
ok so i need a new head unit...not bad and at least i dont have to trace wires for hours...feared the front control arm bushing i have heard of it will check tomorrow...and score on the codes thanks!
before you simply install a new hu, do a quick search on "amp bypass"
some stuff to consider about the speakers in most threads.
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:17 PM
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Need help with wheels!

I have a 03 i35 with a 1.3 drop all around. I want to put new wheels on it but want to stay with infiniti rims. I really like the 19" g37 wheels but not sure about the fit. I want a nice flush fit. Is it possible?
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:24 PM
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so what is the difference between the 89-94 exhuasts and the 95-99...both in headers and cat back exhaust thanks
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:31 PM
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i just hope that nothing wrong is coming....when i start my engine the oil light apear/blink for about 0,30 second

ive change my engine oil last week for synthetic,, and my oil level is ok there something wonf that ive do??
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Hen03i35
I have a 03 i35 with a 1.3 drop all around. I want to put new wheels on it but want to stay with infiniti rims. I really like the 19" g37 wheels but not sure about the fit. I want a nice flush fit. Is it possible?
check the infiniti forum to be sure, but I think they will look fine (I WANT SOME!!!)
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by kasey07
so what is the difference between the 89-94 exhuasts and the 95-99...both in headers and cat back exhaust thanks
89-94 uses a different engine than a 95+ (and even the 92-94 se engines are different to all 89-91 and 92-94 gxes) so headers will not fit at all.
same goes for cat-backs. undercarriage design is different, as the 3rd gen has IRS, 95+ uses solid rear axle.
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Old 08-13-2009, 10:01 AM
  #3978  
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window replacement

Hello, I would like to know how to replace the right rear fixed door glass on my 1990 maxima. Some SOB broke into my car last night.
thank you
Ezra
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by dragracer440wedge
Hello, I would like to know how to replace the right rear fixed door glass on my 1990 maxima. Some SOB broke into my car last night.
thank you
Ezra
from what i've heard it's not an enjoyable task... have you gotten a quote from a glass installer yet? Won't your insurance pay for it or did you not have comp coverage?

this might not be what you want to hear but if you have a common color i MIGHT say just swap the whole door with a bare JY unit. don't bother buying their door panel, main glass, or window regulator, just reuse yours.
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:02 PM
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I don't have comp coverage on it. Just trying to see how hard it would be to do.Might go to pick your part this weekend and see.
Ezra
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:22 PM
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Shift lock needs to be manually pressed, the solenoid(actuator?) works fine, i believe its the bolt that makes contact with the brake pedal that has the little box of wires on it that isnt working.

Someone got a clue as to whats wrong?

Last edited by seans90maxima; 08-13-2009 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:25 PM
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Not my new car!!

I took my 09' maxima in for a car wash and left to grab food without leaving the remote. Seem to have forgotten about the keyless thing. So upon returning i find that my car is over on the grass and an employee tells me he had to push my car and try and turn it with no power steering because the car was off. I think no big deal. But now my new car seems to be pulling to the right. Is it possible that trying to turn my steering wheel with no power steering could damage it in some way? I tried turning it myself from a stopped position and the thing barely budges so i can only imagine how they did it.

thanks
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nickd79
I took my 09' maxima in for a car wash and left to grab food without leaving the remote. Seem to have forgotten about the keyless thing. So upon returning i find that my car is over on the grass and an employee tells me he had to push my car and try and turn it with no power steering because the car was off. I think no big deal. But now my new car seems to be pulling to the right. Is it possible that trying to turn my steering wheel with no power steering could damage it in some way? I tried turning it myself from a stopped position and the thing barely budges so i can only imagine how they did it.

thanks
nick
'09 would be 7th gen, not 3rd gen. may have gotten out of alignment, before, you just didn't know it.
dunno how hard it is to turn the wheel of a 7th gen with no PS, but it ain't harder than an f-450, when the PS goes out, and the flatbed is full of tile... (that, my friends, was a bad day...)
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:51 PM
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i just got a 1990 maxima SE
(my 1st nissan)


pros:
*digital cluster
*great engine
*cold air intake
*good interior
*alarm

cons:
*exhaust manifold leaks due to 2 broken studs and it makes an ugly sound when i accelerate.
*there an oil leak on the left side (dont know where its coming from)
*wheels make a clunk sound when in turn (both directions)
*ac doesnt work
*paint is horrible



any help would be very appreciated. i want to hook this car up really nice from under the hood to anything else worth replacing to better the performance cause im lost right now and dont know where to start.

thanks
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nyc_ink
i just got a 1990 maxima SE
(my 1st nissan)


pros:
*digital cluster
*great engine
*cold air intake
*good interior
*alarm

cons:
*exhaust manifold leaks due to 2 broken studs and it makes an ugly sound when i accelerate.
*there an oil leak on the left side (dont know where its coming from)
*wheels make a clunk sound when in turn (both directions)
*ac doesnt work
*paint is horrible



any help would be very appreciated. i want to hook this car up really nice from under the hood to anything else worth replacing to better the performance cause im lost right now and dont know where to start.

thanks
afaik, the digi-gauges were only in gxe models. do you have chrome trim around the windows/on the tail lights?
sounds like both axles need to be replaced. not the worst job in the world, but something you don't want to do often ('specially the passenger side... *shudder*)
if you have broken exhaust studs, you probably have bad motor mounts, as well. they are both common problems, and related.
Thank your lucky stars you live in nyc, rather than here, in OKC, or worse, Houston... if you do not have AC, you WILL die. there, its an inconvenience. Does the fan work, at all?

Paint is fixable. just do not go to macco.

Congratz, welcome to the club.
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
afaik, the digi-gauges were only in gxe models. do you have chrome trim around the windows/on the tail lights?
sounds like both axles need to be replaced. not the worst job in the world, but something you don't want to do often ('specially the passenger side... *shudder*)
if you have broken exhaust studs, you probably have bad motor mounts, as well. they are both common problems, and related.
Thank your lucky stars you live in nyc, rather than here, in OKC, or worse, Houston... if you do not have AC, you WILL die. there, its an inconvenience. Does the fan work, at all?

Paint is fixable. just do not go to macco.

Congratz, welcome to the club.

no chrome trim around the windows but the taillights did and so does the middle maxima plastic thats on the trunk. i dont know i could be wrong it probably is a gxe, i woudnt know, lol.

when i hit around 20 mph the car feels like a boost hits it something like a sudden jerk.

yea i can roll with my windows down but it sucks and i dont think the fan works.

i want to know what can i do to this car, im willing to hook it up till it runs like a beast. from under the hood to the suspension and any mods.

why not macco? do they suck?

thanks bro.

Last edited by nyc_ink; 08-13-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by seans90maxima
Shift lock needs to be manually pressed, the solenoid(actuator?) works fine, i believe its the bolt that makes contact with the brake pedal that has the little box of wires on it that isnt working.

Someone got a clue as to whats wrong?
if it's the thing on the brake pedal, then your brakelights would not work. otherwise it's the green plastic box in the passenger side kick panel. pm nc90gxe and ask him if he still has his (i did his 5spd swap in march but i don't think we ever removed the green box)
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:29 AM
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Noobie here (obivously) with a very noobie question.

First, my intro:
1. My name - I'm a zookeeper. Yeah it's awesome.
2. I'm a mom to 4.5 year old boy/girl twins. Home is more exciting than work, and that's saying something.
3. Long story short, my mother-in-law gave us her 93 Maxima. WooHoo! Still in pretty good shape with extremely cold a/c, a sunroof, and a Bose system. Love you Nana!

Now the car's intro:
1. 1993 Maxima. Auto with a VG30E.
2. It's a gold color with a two-toned light/dark brown interior.
3. Ok, so I've driven a Jeep Cherokee for the past 16 years and I know nothing about Nissans. All I know is hubby is going to the yard tomorrow to try to find a new a/c head unit, antenna motor, and a new driver side door/window master control something-or-other. It needs one maybe both new cv joints/half axles things (it clicks when I turn). It has a real rough idle while stopped. We changed spark plugs/wires, and are going to check air fliter, vacuum lines, and a couple of other things.

So here's my question - what model do I have?
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by nyc_ink
i just got a 1990 maxima SE
(my 1st nissan)


pros:
*digital cluster
*great engine
*cold air intake
*good interior
*alarm

cons:
*exhaust manifold leaks due to 2 broken studs and it makes an ugly sound when i accelerate.
*there an oil leak on the left side (dont know where its coming from)
*wheels make a clunk sound when in turn (both directions)
*ac doesnt work
*paint is horrible



any help would be very appreciated. i want to hook this car up really nice from under the hood to anything else worth replacing to better the performance cause im lost right now and dont know where to start.

thanks
Oil leak is coming from the front main seal and / or oil pan end seals. Unless you feel like dropping the oil pan, you can take care or the end seals with some RTV.

The front main seal is behind the timing belt sprocket. It's a decently intensive job - even if you know what you're doing and / or have done it before. If you decide to replace it do the cam seals, timing belt and tensioner, and water pump all at the same time...Also have an extra sprocket on hand, as you will most likely have to drill and tap the old one to get it off.
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Shoveller
Now the car's intro:
1. 1993 Maxima. Auto with a VG30E.

So here's my question - what model do I have?
If in the US you should have a GXE.

In the UK the SE's had the VG30E and the GXE's had the VE's. The opposite from what you have got in the States .

Is anyone any good with electrics on them?

I tried connecting a new stereo up (without sucsess) and the wiring codes are also different to those you have in the US.

Now i seem to have blown something. the following is happening :-

Airbag light on
No lights on heating consol
Power Aerial not working
lack of power
and most bizzarely, left fromt speaker turns off if drivers window wound down

Anyone got any ideas?
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
from what i've heard it's not an enjoyable task... have you gotten a quote from a glass installer yet? Won't your insurance pay for it or did you not have comp coverage?

this might not be what you want to hear but if you have a common color i MIGHT say just swap the whole door with a bare JY unit. don't bother buying their door panel, main glass, or window regulator, just reuse yours.
Do what? Aren't we just talking about the little 1/4 glass on the rear windows? It's not hard at all to replace

It comes out with just a few screws.

Lower window, remove glass (heck you probably don't even have to remove it just get it out of the track).

Pull back the weatherstripping on the top of the door and remove the small Phillips screw.

Follow the channel down the door and remove the 10 mm bolt that holds it in, then push the channel out of the way.

Remove 1/4 glass

Put new 1/4 glass in (make sure you put the white plastic piece back on the bottom before it goes in)

Maybe 30 minutes tops. I've had to do it a few times.
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by James92SE
Do what? Aren't we just talking about the little 1/4 glass on the rear windows? It's not hard at all to replace

It comes out with just a few screws.

Lower window, remove glass (heck you probably don't even have to remove it just get it out of the track).

Pull back the weatherstripping on the top of the door and remove the small Phillips screw.

Follow the channel down the door and remove the 10 mm bolt that holds it in, then push the channel out of the way.

Remove 1/4 glass

Put new 1/4 glass in (make sure you put the white plastic piece back on the bottom before it goes in)

Maybe 30 minutes tops. I've had to do it a few times.
orly? i thought i had heard someone griping heavily about it a few years ago. but if it's like you said then it can't be too bad. any sealant involved or anything?
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:48 AM
  #3993  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
orly? i thought i had heard someone griping heavily about it a few years ago. but if it's like you said then it can't be too bad. any sealant involved or anything?
It's pretty straight forward

No sealant or anything. All the rubber/weatherstripping around the glass just pops back on. There's a white plastic piece that hooks underneath the glass to the rubber and you have to make sure to put that back on. Two times I've put everything back together then realized I forgot that piece and had to do it over again
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:07 PM
  #3994  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
from what i've heard it's not an enjoyable task... have you gotten a quote from a glass installer yet? Won't your insurance pay for it or did you not have comp coverage?

this might not be what you want to hear but if you have a common color i MIGHT say just swap the whole door with a bare JY unit. don't bother buying their door panel, main glass, or window regulator, just reuse yours.
Hi, just an up date. I found a r/r door qtr glass last night at a wreckers.I had it in a little over an hour. not too hard to do.Remove door panel, lower the window and remove mounting screws to regulator and move forward.remove window guide.remove glass seal install glass to seal and reinstall.
Ezra
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Old 08-14-2009, 01:02 PM
  #3995  
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Originally Posted by dragracer440wedge
Hi, just an up date. I found a r/r door qtr glass last night at a wreckers.I had it in a little over an hour. not too hard to do.Remove door panel, lower the window and remove mounting screws to regulator and move forward.remove window guide.remove glass seal install glass to seal and reinstall.
Ezra
dude, that sounds great. i wondered my self how the heck its put in. great job
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:58 PM
  #3996  
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I have a 93 GXE and want a spoiler, factory if I can find one. Would it be easiest to just find a SE (in a junk yard) and switch trunk lids? Which years fit and what do I need other than the actual trunk lid? (wires or anything)
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:00 PM
  #3997  
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What are some good websites for aftermarket parts? Anything and everything, from performance to keychains.
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:06 PM
  #3998  
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Originally Posted by Shoveller
What are some good websites for aftermarket parts? Anything and everything, from performance to keychains.
A question that I asked myself as a newbie the answer it ur really not going to find too many upgrades... I was kinda down about that but One thing i could let u know that these cars are built to last... just keep the oil changed and any little sound that u hear that you dont think it should make search the threads and ask questions you have a lot of good people here that are willing to help. I would say just search google for 89-94 Nissan Maxima Parts...
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:23 PM
  #3999  
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Originally Posted by Shoveller
What are some good websites for aftermarket parts? Anything and everything, from performance to keychains.
Ebay has body kits, radiators, rims, spoilers, etc. kicking around but otherwise 3rd gens have a tiny aftermarket compared to Civics and 240sx etc.
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:11 PM
  #4000  
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hey guys! so i recently bought a 90 maxima auto with only about 112 thou on the odometer. but on the flip side its got a few problems... first it idles real rough and theres a poping sound comming from the muffler. im guessing i have an exhaust leak somewhere? then sometimes the car just up and dies and kills the battery it will putt putt and then just die. next is a huge electrical issue, i have no acc power so when i put the key in and turn it on i have no radio or anything, checked all the fuses but everythings fine but i did notice that on the positive battery terminal there is a clip thats about 4 inches long that is missing so im guessing it shorted out because theres no wiring there its just the clips plugged in im guessing that would have something to do with my acc power? and does that little clip have anything to do with the alternator charging the battery? any help would be great sorry for the jumpy post let me know if you need any more info thanks
zach
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