sbradford26

Okay we have a 91 maxima and I was wondering if having to press the shift lock override button is normal. This is my sisters car and she has to use the button every time she shifts into drive. If this isn't a normal problem is there a fix?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

thats not normal, you should only have to use the big button to shift.

when you depress the brake, does a click noise come from the shifter area?

sbradford26

I don't think it does.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

alright thats not good, so youre unable to press in the button on the shifter? the clicking noise is the sound of the button loosening so you can press it in

i know one person said they had a blown fuse and it caused that problem, check your fuses. otherwise someone better than me on electrical hopefully comes by

sbradford26

Okay I will check the fuses tomorrow.

sbradford26

All the fuses are good.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sorry i cant help you anymore although i remember theres a couple other things that can cause it. maybe try searching the 3rd gen section and see if anything comes up

codyl1992

So a week or so ago I replaced the KS in the VE, it was pretty easy but took a long time over a couple days. It was weird the first time i started it up because it burned some coolant but I think it was just because the gaskets hadn't sealed yet because it's fine now. Weird thing is, the KS still retards the timing after a few minutes of driving, but not as badly as the old sensor.

Before I replaced the sensor i had been using the resistor bypass for a few months running 91+ octane no problems.

But now I am running 87 octane since I have a half-working sensor and it's cheaper. This is where it gets interesting. I popped the sensor harness off and put the resistor in, still on 87 octane. Runs like a champ! No knocking whatsoever, i even full throttled it a couple times. The power increase over having the sensor plugged in is obvious once the engine's warmed up.

Now my questions are:
I thought when you used the resistor trick you HAD to use 91 octane or else it would knock, mine doesn't knock even with 87 why?

Is it safe for me to run 87 with stock timing with a resistor bypass?

Why didn't my sensor work properly, it only seems to be half working?

To me there is no point in even messing with the sensor anymore especially because there isn't even any knocking with regular octane. I might as well just keep the resistor in there unless i get knocking and then as an emergency backup have the sensor to plug in.

sbradford26

I already did and got nothing.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

found this on youtube, pop open the shifter benzel n take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMSvwXDT6HY

Tool

iTrader: (1)

I have a 91 maxima SE with a M/T that I have brought back to life, kinda... New plugs, oil, filter, air filter, cleaned the MAF and runs as good with it plugged in as without (at idle of course), distributor cap and rotor good, wires good, KS tested good, temp sensor test good, o2 sensor replaced, etc. Now the issues. When driving, it is a little rough and is really bad between 2400-3000 RPMs. and when it (the car) is warm, the car will not start for a few hrs unless i pull the fuel pump fuse (long story on how I figured that out). There is proper fuel pressure and the pump works fine. I replaced the fuel filter also. I heard something about the crank and cam position sensors going bad? where are they on this car? any other ideas?

Thanks! Adam

eM16

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUpB206E1x8

Can anyone help me with this? Man I've posted a few times and I've got nowhere.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sounds like a miss, of sorts. check the plugs/wires/injector plugs, make sure they're all snug.

eM16

So could it be an injector? I replaced the plugs (not the wires, but the me and the guy at the auto part place checked and he said they were fine). I do have a loose cable going to the distributor (the cable looks different from all the other cables going to the distributor too, older and dirtier).

eM16

Sorry for the double post, but I read a few things online and a lot of them point to bad injectors. Can I get them cleaned on a 91 SE? How much would something like that run me?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i would just get new injectors, dont get reman ones though because technically you cant reman these injectors so they will fail

you can get new ones from Ebay or get working ones from a seller here or try some junkyard ones and hope they work

eM16

Can't really afford that and the car really isn't worth it.

Tomorrow I'm gonna run some Seafoam.

1byounkin

I'm having problem on my 92 se. As your driving the engine would turn off. The same thing would happen when you stop. The engine would surge at idle and WOT. If you floor it the engine will speed up than will automatically will pull back to idle. This will do this without moving the petal. If you move the petal there is no change when the engine is surging. I do run 98 oct gas. What can this be? A sensor like the coolant temp sensor. I do know that the temp stayed at "C" all day with no change. Please help, thanks.

Tool

iTrader: (1)

Change the coolant temp sensor, it is cheep enough and chances are, that is your culprit....

Tool

iTrader: (1)

You can get warrantied (sp) ones off of ebay pretty inexpensively, or go to a yard that has a "X"-day warranty on them. if the injector is dead, there aint no commin back....

road_warrior05

I have a '94 GXE. I was taking the interior out to run wires for LEDs on the Ceiling and a sound system in the trunk. All of the trim pieces on the pillars popped off just fine, except for the long piece that runs over the top of both doors. When I pulled that piece of like the other ones, the clips on it all broke off. Is there some special way to get that piece off or were the clips just old?

kingscrappy

Well I have a 92 Maxima Se that has brand new NGK Spark Plugs, A New Mass Air Flow Sensor, 6 new coils, A spectre intake but every time I drive my car it seems to hesitate/jerk when I step on it. I've been trying to correct this problem ever since I got this car last year. I would like any advice I could get to fix this problem. Also, I have a problem that when I crank the car up from a cold start it seems to cut off and I have to keep stepping on the gas to get it to even crank up. I have been dealing with this problem alot since it has become cold here. I would greatly appreciate any feedback I can get on this problem. Thanks in advance for the help guys.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Check the coolant temp sensor connection for corrosion(greenish looking crap)..if dirty, clean it with electrical contact cleaner and a small wire brush...if problem persists, replace the CTS...

Tool

iTrader: (1)

Any Ideas?

Adam

kingscrappy

Thanks for the great information. I'm going to replace it soon so I will report back if that fix the problem. Will that help out with me stepping on the gas to crank it up also. Also could you or somebody on here post a picture of where it is located. I have the VE engine in my car. Thanks again for the great information.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

If the cts is corroded or malfunctioning, then yes cleaning and/or replacing it should fix the problem..

DMad8724

iTrader: (4)

what is the correct tire size for an 18x8 wheel on a 3rd gen assuming the wheel is the right offset, etc.

235/40/18?
or no?

Tool

iTrader: (1)

I am going to bump this one more time, but I would like to add that i did the injector listen test with a screwdriver and all sound good. I decided to pull the plug wires while running to see if it makes a difference. When i pulled plug wires from cyl 4, 5 and 6 it would bog down and run like crap (even worse then it already does). When I pull 1, 2 and 3, no change. nothing... I pulled the plugs and they are firing fine! I tested all the wires again, and they are all good! the plugs from 1, 2 and 3 are also black, soot covered. Any ideas? Please?

Adam

Tool

iTrader: (1)

....and the soot does not cover the tip of the electrode or the ground tab where it sparks to (the hook part of the plug)

Travass66

Hello I'm new here to the forums and I had a question. I have a 93 nissan maxima with a twin cam 24 valve v6 engine. I got into an accident last night that wasn't too bad, just a minor dent on the left front quarter panel. After the police showed up, blah blah I left and drove it 5 or 6 miles when the engine cut out. I opened the hood to discover a hole and crack right next to the cap where you pour the oil in. I was wondering if I could fix this with some J-B Weld maybe possibly just to get it to my house or if possible for a long time fix. The car is currently at the place they towed it too and I would like to avoid getting it towed here because that would cost quite a bit (the shop is like 20 miles away :/) I have a picture, its not the actual engine, but a generic engine just to show where the hole and crack is. Thanks in advance.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Having a cracked valve cover will cause a vacuum leak, thats why the engine cuts out. You might also be getting junk into your oil if the crack is big enough. You said there is a hole there, if you suspect that metal pieces fell in, dont drive it.

If you can repair the crack sufficiently enough to hold vacuum, you'll be able to drive the car away, but I would also look for other damage because putting a crack there is not that easy, so there may be damage to the ignition coils, camshafts or the head itself.

Travass66

Allright thank you for the quick reply. What I'll probably do is drain the oil, then take off the valve cover and look for any damage or loose metal. Then if everything checks out I'll try to fix it myself. Thank you so much

Edit: Does anyone know where I could get a replacement valve cover or which years would fit my maxima?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

check the clasifieds for the 3rd gen. any 92-94 SE (only years the ve30de came in) will have the needed valve cover.
good luck.
although, I must ask, are you sure the crack/break is a result from the accident?

Travass66

I'm not 100% sure if it was, but it's kinda weird that the hole appeared after the accident.. hmmm.. Thats why I'm going to remove the valve cover and take a look at everything. What I think though is there might have been a crack in it already and the accident might have jarred it enough to damage it further. And thank you for the info

Travass66

Sorry for the double post, but does anyone know if my engine is an interference engine? I called the place where they towed my car and said that the timing belt had snapped and it could have bent the valves. :/ and the hole was caused by the timing belt coming through the cover...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you have a timing chain, not belt, so it's not as likely to break (but possible) (one of the features of the ve30de is that chain, vs my vg30e which most 3rd gens have).
I believe they are interference (90% sure).
any weird noises when it shut down?

jeramie78

Have a few questions.

I just had a 91 maxima 3.0L M/T given to me. The story goes that the supposedly ran out of gas and couldnt get the car to start again. Then they thought the fuel pump was out and left it. The car will turn over but wont start.

I checked the fuel pump by hot wiring it and it works great. So i put it all back together. Still nothing. So i replaced the fuel pump relay and same results. So i tried setting the ecu to display error codes. Turn the switch on but dont start and then move the switch full clockwise and wait for the lights. The switch had fact. tape on it and was in the full counter clockwise position. But no lights came on after waiting a few minutes.

I then checked the eccs relay and it is working. I even jumped the relay to check this out. I checked all fuses with a fuse checker and they are working properly. Checked to make sure eccs was getting 12 volts to the power wire and it is. Only one wire wasnt getting the full volts and it was a orange wire not the red and blue wire.

Questions:
1. Can the security sensor in the car shut down the ECU from working?
2. Is my ecu fried?
3. If it is where can i purchase a new one? No junk yards around here.
4. Could a fuse with the wrong amp cause problems? Lets say there is a 15 instead of a 10 in there?

All help is greatly appreciated.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

pull the distributor cap, see if the rotor spins when you crank the engine.

jeramie78

Not trying to be mean but what in the word would that have to do with no power to fuel pump relay or the ecu not throwing any cel lights?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sorry, I missed that part. check your ecu fuse (and replace). if you still get no lights, your ecu is hosed, and needs replaced.
edit: does everything else seem to work? headlights, radio, blinkers, etc. just no fuel/spark?