Sorry about that. I just read the tile and figured it was ok, my bad.Now I looked at the top and saw " 3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994), sorry. 5 posts and already getting in to trouble..lol


Well that sucks but it doesn't sound right. The RPM should drop between each shift. I've owned many manuals and never experienced this. There's no way the car should scream like that every shift until 4th. Im going to have it looked at anyway. Thanks for your help dude.

 

I cant believe it, not one 3rd gen had manual seats, all were power. even the 1989 one

Theres a 2nd gen 1987 one with manual seats though, those wont work right?

 

i know it's supposed to drop between each shift, and on every single manual car i've driven with a cable-throttle, it does. but not on the 3.5L ('02+) maximas.. because of the stupid DBW throttle. on a cable-driven throttle, your foot DIRECTLY tells the throttle how far to be open and when to shut (ie, democracy). on DBW, your foot tells the computer how far you want the throttle to be open by way of an electronic sensor on the pedal, then the computer gets all political on you and says "well it's lovely to know what you want, but here's what I'M gonna do since i know better than you" (ie communism). So the computer tries to "shut the throttle smoothly" which in reality is the annoying mid-shift lag you are experiencing. It's an accepted flaw of the 6th gen. That's why i'm happy my Civic has a cable throttle even tho it's a 2004.

in fact i made a thread about it here:
http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...questions.html

 

probably not. sux you live in canada. i have a set of manual seats that are gonna get junked with the 89se..... unless you really wanna pay shipping from NC to canada. or if you have friends state-side that i can ship it to. just the driver's seat?

 

lol shipping would suck, thanks anyways. Pick n pull is my first choice, but now i'll call used import car part places and see if they have any.

worst part is i wouldnt have to do this crap if Sparco just carried 3rd gen brackets, out of stock and i doubt they will make more

 

ok so i guess their remans, damn lol
so i guess ill have to save at least $400 to get a brand new set of 6 i seen.
i guess ill have to change them later n pay for a bit more gas on my way
to florida. damn this car is draining my money, lol

is their any write ups or tutorials on changing them u know about cuz i never have luck using the search bar

 

I do not have this problem with my 03 Altima 3.5 MT. I can't imagine that the Altima and Maxima are very different in the throttle area, I know mine is drive by wire, and you wouldn't know it. It acts just like a drive by cable does.

 

hello im looking for 93 se fuel pump relay location anyone know ? thanks

 

well i called them and said that no 3rd gens have manual seats but there was a 87 2nd gen with manual seats, he said if they look similar rip em out and they'll try it. i got the passenger side out but one of the bolts was stripped on the drivers side so its almost out. I have to run out and buy a Gator Grip or just chisel the bish to get it out and im set

 

where can i buy maxima.org stickers?

 

search function is your friend young grasshopper

http://forums.maxima.org/feedback-su...rs-my-car.html

 

P.S. has a leak how can i check where is it coming from cuz its covered with fliuds

 

if you're asking about your 97 maxima i would suggest using the similarly-named thread in the appropriate (4th gen) forum...

 

my car keeps stalling and am tring to figure out how to tell if t.p.s. has gone bad and if it is ajustible. does anyone know?

 

Is there not a thread like this for 6Gen Maxima??

 

is there any way to reset your code on the third generation GXE. (keypad on the door)

 

hmm weird.. they might have different ECUs or something. cuz the HP rating between them is pretty big for being the same engine (240 vs 265).

 

not that i'm aware of... maybe one should be started and sticky'd in that section i guess NismoMax80 could do that since he's a mod. Or really any mod could do it.

 

yep but i cant remember how off the top of my head, check the user manual

 

FML still got the manual brackets? i give up, i spent 3 hours total working on the stripped bolt on the 2nd gen and its round now so theres no way in heck im gonna get it off, i waited a hour in the cold too while they put more cars out, one being a 3rd gen, and big surprise power seats

would you be able to ship USPS?

 

I have a 91 maxima Se. It Idles high and the RPMs bounce between 1500 and 2000 while idling. Otherwise the car runs great. I ran an ECU diagnostic and came up with codes 33 and 51. What do they mean? I heard the 33 could be either somethig with the EGR or the O2 sensor and the 51 could be something with a fuel injector. How do I reset the computer back to normal? I know that to run the diagnostic you turn the dial on the ECU all the way clock wise and wait for the syncronized red and green lights to flash three times then turn the dial all the back counter clockwise. Then to clear the codes you do the same except you wait for the lights to flash four times. What do you use the 1x, 2x, and 5x flashes for when you turn the dial all the way to the diagnostic position? "Idle speed control" is also written around the dial. What is that all about? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

 

i would put it in mode 4 and that would clear it, i think. basically when you are sitting there looking at the 33 and 51, you turn the thing to the right again, let it flash 4x, then turn it back to the left, wait a sec, then turn it back to the right and cycle back around to mode 3 (3 flashes) to double-check that they were cleared.

 

I did put it back to mode 3 after clearing the codes and it came up with 55 which means no problem but then i let it cycle through again and it came back with the same 33 and 51. Do i leave the ECU in mode 3 or 4 normally? And do you know what modes 1, 2, and 5 are for?

 

1 is normal, 2 is o2 sensor monitoring, 3 is code checking, 4 is switch test, 5 is realtime diagnostics (never used it )

did you have the engine running while doing this? or just the key in "on" but the engine stopped? if the engine's running and warm it makes sense that the codes might come right back after you just cleared them, if the problems still exist.

 

does anyone know if your maf sensor could be dirty even if it doesnt look dirty because i use a k&n cone filter and i read they it can screw up the sensor but i pulled it and it doesnt look dirty my max keeps stalling. help please thank you

 

lol how the hell do you subscribe to threads? This sux i have no friends.. maybe its cause I30's suck. lol

 

above the first post on the page... thread tools... yea. and yea they do.

and i'm sorry you have no friends. Maybe you should get out more. Like go to bars, get to meet some new people. Unless you just smell bad or something, I dunno. Try standing downwind of people perhaps?

 

meh, just get some MAF cleaner and clean it.. less than $10, and it can't hurt (as long as you actually get MAF cleaner and not some other generic carb or brake cleaner)

 

I've used electrical cleaner for my MAF. worked great.

 

 

I was wondering what I should do first to gain a little horsepower. Its my Grandmas 93 Maxima SE and it has 170k miles and was treated really well. They brought it to a shop and it has zero problems. Im only 16 so I dont have much money or knowledge about it so please help me out

 

Y-pipe ive heard is a good start. aftermarket exhausts can get you 5 or so horses, im partial to Magnaflows because the one on my 3rd gen is deep and not really noticable/loud and gives a nice noise at idle and added a bit of horsepower

imo if you dont have much money, keep your money for maintenence, wait til youre done school, work for a bit and mod when you can pay for maintenence and mods. thats what i ended up doing, got my 3rd gen when i was 16, paid for maintenence til i was done high school, then took a year off to work/upgrade a few courses and mod the Max

 

wait. learn to drive. get used to the car, and it's quirks (it has them, trust me). being 16, you haven't been driving very long. the LAST thing you should be worrying about is adding HP. I know you believe you are a good driver, and I do not doubt you could be.

all the crap disclaimers out of the way, CAI, warpspeed y-pipe, eibach springs-and tokico struts (not hp, but performance upgrades),
big brake kit. light weight wheels (16"-17").

 

There is a constant 12-13 volts of power going to the injector connection on my number two cylinder. this cylinder is missing but it has spark. when i disconnect the plug wire the car runs the same. all other cylinders show no constant power. what should I do?

 

i'm assuming that the car is fully assembled and that you tested voltage from the 4pin (2x2) injector subharness connector under the intake? if so you can look in the FSM to see which pins lead to the injector itself and test the resistance. if it's over 14 ohms the injector will need to be replaced.

 

well i clean my maf but it still stalls i know this qualifies as the cutting out problem but what is happening is that i will be driving and the car is working great then all of the sudden have my foot on the gas but it feels like im coasting if i throw it in nutral or shift gears it will start reving back up but if i do nothing the car will stall out happpens after ive been driving for a little wile it feels like the engine is cutting in and out i talk to an x nissan mechanic he said its sounds like the t.p.s. does this sound right to any one ? please help i really wanna get this issue resoved thanks

 

I have pinpointed it down to the number two cylinder injector. I have tested the connection at the four pin harness as well as the two pin connection to the fuel injector. I have tested all the other injector connections and they all read .34 volts. this particular connector reads 12.43 volts. I don't understand what I'm supposed to check the resistance of. I have checked the resistance of the two pins on the Injector itself but there is no resistance at all on any of the injectors. The car runs good other that that one misfire. When I pull the plug wire on that cylinder it does not change the way the car runs as it does on all other cylinders. What could cause the constant power to that connector? The injector may be bad but that would not cause the connector to have constant power. The ECU is throwing a code 51 which refers to the injector circuit problem and a code 33. Does the 33 refer to the EGR valve or to the O2 sensor?

 

There is a constant 12-13 volts of power going to the injector connection on my number two cylinder. this cylinder is missing but it has spark. when i disconnect the plug wire the car runs the same. all other cylinders show no constant power. what should I do?

I have pinpointed it down to the number two cylinder injector. I have tested the connection at the four pin harness as well as the two pin connection to the fuel injector. I have tested all the other injector connections and they all read .34 volts. this particular connector reads 12.43 volts. I don't understand what I'm supposed to check the resistance of. I have checked the resistance of the two pins on the Injector itself but there is no resistance at all on any of the injectors. The car runs good other that that one misfire. When I pull the plug wire on that cylinder it does not change the way the car runs as it does on all other cylinders. What could cause the constant power to that connector? The injector may be bad but that would not cause the connector to have constant power. The ECU is throwing a code 51 which refers to the injector circuit problem and a code 33. Does the 33 refer to the EGR valve or to the O2 sensor?

I posted this earlier. you seem like a knowledgeable mechanic. any suggestions?

 

you're supposed to test the electrical resistance of the injector. they all share the hot wire, and have individual grounds. so you are testing the resistance through the harness, since #2 cannot be accessed directly w/o removing the intake. any other injector can be tested directly.

can you take a pic of which connector(s) you're measuring voltage from? and maybe which pins you are measuring the voltage from?

 

Thanks for the reply, it only dynoed 174hp and Im just trying to make it like it was. I definitely dont want to make it a monster car and drive it in a wall haha. But yeah Ill definitely stash a couple thousand for maintenance for it, Thanks again