cphilip

Yes, it is kind of correct but it varies that 5 mph while the car, being monitored by GPS goes steady along within that margin of error. So, for instance if the car is going 50 mph the display may say 45, 46 or so... but most often never what the GPS says its going. But normally no more than 5 mph apart. Except for that initial start up which looks like a count down. Starts at 20 and counts down and once warmed up will read to 0 But then run up and down slowy to perhaps as high as 5 but all while sitting still. Almost like an errant voltage wandering around there.

To be honest I did not notice if the HUD was displaying. It could have been but I was not looking for it at the time as I had no idea it had that feature and had so many other things to check. I do have access to it now and hopefully will be able to go back over it again tomorrow or the next day. I am primarily focusing on trying to find out if the Timing belt was changed or not. Then going from there.

No badges at all. None anywhere. No real sign that any badges have been on so they been gone a long time. No ghost of a badge removed.

I am trying to also get a chance to jack it up and see if the tie rods or ball joints are bad. Then move on and see. It is a good solid running motor and great tranny is all I can say so far. Smooth and quite for 135K miles. They are asking $1000 for it. Paint is not good. Dark Grey with lots of age showing. No rust but not good clear coat. Interior fair. Mostly intact with no water damage. Some sun fade.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i'd nail a rustless brougham for $1000 in a second

badges come off clean, on newer cars you need fishing line to debadge and goo-off to get remaining glue off but after 10 years the glue wears out and you can cleanly debadge with just your nails and nothing else

cphilip

It is a life long Southern Car. No rust belt activity. Always been in the area here in North Western South Carolina.

So far I got a list of things though that have to be done to it or confirmed about it:

New windshield @ $205 installed... but now that I know it has the window for the HUD I got to recheck that figure because I did not let the glass guy know that fact when I called him for a quote. Could be more now

I think it needs either tie rods or ball joints or both (the noise at near wheel turning lock)

And I may need a Timing belt done. If I cannot find out if its been done or not. Thats the big push right now is to see if I can determine that

Fix the Speedo if possible. Replace sending unit or whatever.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you should see if you can find the windshield cheaper than that. I think I was quoted $150, a few months back (slept since then), but have a tint shop add a small piece of 5%. shouldn't cost more than 10-15 bucks, I wouldn't think. and you could possibly customize it (think flames )

cphilip

Yea I will call around but this windshield with the HUD is something special. It has the screen for projection built into it. So it may not be so cheap if it can be even found new.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the hud part on the windshield is little more than a piece of contact paper

cphilip

SUperB!!!! Can it be purchased somewhere?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea the HUD image is projected from the hump on the dash... the special part on the windshield is just a reflective material that acts like a one-way mirror to reflect the light back towards your eyes instead of thru the windshield.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

This is why i recommended the tint shop thing. I recall somebody converted to HUD, and added a piece of tint to get the effect. and, since it's custom, you can do some crazy stuff, if you are so inclined.

10's or bust

take the time to wiggle all plugs going to the transmissiion especially the ones going to the inhibitor(neutral-safety switch) check out the inhibitor relay as well by swapping it out with a known good relay.. All wires communicate to the trans and its module through inhibitor relay..and i would stop reving it that high b/c all ur doing is burning up second gear b/c its slipping into second gear instead of shifting into second thats why the rpms stay that high!!! If all else fails u need to get the trans service manual to go through the specific procedure to find the short but to me it sounds like u have a short in the wires going to the revolution or speed sensor as the rpm and speed r not matching causing the erattic shifting!!!

rharris19

I am having a weird problem with my 91 Maxima I just bought. The previous owner replaced the ignition switch with a new one thinking that was the problem. It is a v6 with 260k miles 5 speed, and I am having electrical problems. If I leave it alone for a while, I can put the turn the key and it will turn on acc mode, but if I try to start it, everything turns off. If I try to start it again, nothing works, not even acc mode.

I have disconnected the security box by the steering column, but that still didn't help. I am getting the door lights coming on, but nothing else is getting power. Before in ACC mode, the door lights would dim if I messed with anything electrical. I have also checked the fuses on the drivers side panel to no avail.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well i would hope so (that's the only engine configuration offered since they switched away from the straight-6 in 1985)

anyways try cleaning up your battery terminals and making sure they are good and tight. mine did this in 2007.. i would go to start it and it would just click and everything would die. i went under the hood and just pushed down on the terminals and it would work then, but the next day it would to the same thing. until it happened while i was driving uphill at night in heavy traffic, everything died.... so i had no brakes, no steering, no lights, nothing. not fun . when the cars cleared i pushed on the terminals again, started it up and pulled into a parking lot and tightened the terminal, never happened again.

rharris19

Well I thought some came with a 4 cyl for some reason. I will check that out. I am going to kick myself if that is really all it was.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

nah, stanza/altima had 4cyl, but never the Maxima. RWD L24E straight-6 (81-84) then FWD VG30E, VE30DE, VQ30DE, VQ30DEK and VQ35DE V6's (85-present)

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

fixed

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i highly doubt anyone would confuse a 89-94 maxima for a 02+ altima ... or for any year sentra.

i was only talking about the ones that existed alongside the 3rd gen max

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

S13 coupe rear ends look alot like Stanza rears, 3rd gens dont really look like em

rharris19

Can someone point me in the right direction to see possible weak points in the car. This is going to be a 24 hours of lemons car and need to know what areas need the most focus. I tried searching, but without knowing what exactly I am searching for, I am at a loss. Also cheap performance, that doesn't affect reliability in race conditions, would be great as well. Thanks for your help guys.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

these cars are pretty solid, cant think of any weak points off of the top of my head. whats the 24 hours of lemons again? road rally, not destruction derby right? if youre gonna keep the car after, i would just do Y pipe, exhaust, CAI (don't do a cold air intake if the car will be in excessively moist conditions, can hydrolock the engine hence why i cant have one).

a good catback exhaust is about $200 installed (or $60-$100 for parts if you can do it yourself) and will add about 5hp-10hp, Y pipe i believe is about 10-15hp and the warpspeed one is $100ish i think, and CAI is about 5hp and $50-$100 for a good one. Only other major way to get performance is to go turbo or engine swap, both which are 4 digit prices

rharris19

It's a race for cars that were purchased for less than $500. I boght mine for $250 and have sold $200 off of it already. I may get that Y pipe and make an exhaust. I may just invest in a good radiator and oil cooler. Does anyone track these cars? Do they get hot?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

trans cooler if it is an a/t is a must for Lemons use
fuel injectors are also an issue, but that will hopefully present itself before the race.

rharris19

What about the injectors? Do they get stuck open or just fail to respond? I may get them cleaned if they just get clogged easily. Also the car is a 5-speed

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i mean to the untrained eye. to someone who just sees "nissan" and 4 doors and assumes Maxima. obviously people like us can tell them all apart b/c we pay attention to different models. but a bunch of us have had our cars called altimas or stanzas before... even tauruses. there was a thread about that in the General section i think.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

they die electrically. Ohm them all out now, they should be between 11 and 14 ohms. If they are don't worry much as they don't immediately fail completely, they will still function with much higher resistance, but the higher it goes, the sooner they will completely fail.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

lol. do the rules specify the final cost, or the cost of the car? I know there are some safety items (brakes, seat/seat belt) that can cost more, but I was wondering if you currently have a $50 or a $250 car, to start with.
(edit: for those concerned, Rules: http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/rules/. enjoy)

as to over heating, you will want to run the car for a while (hour trip around town, if it's legal), and check the plastic top for leaks. if so, you may want to check into a "new" radiator. bleeding the coolant system is a must, and can be a pita, if you are inexperienced. since it's a lemon's car, you can bypass the heater core, which will help, a little.

rharris19

As of now we have a $50 car. It is not legal, but I am not in a heavily populated area. Plus the police don't really care as long as you aren't doing something stupid.

I have a tubing bender, so hopefully we come out fo this with a complete car ready to race for less than $700 after all safety stuff is added. Still need seat, harness, cage, and radio. Possibly might add this amazing "Y" pipe I hear so much about and just make a better flowing 2" exhaust. Should be fun

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sweet! $450 to go!
yeah, if you need any help, just let us know, we are more than happy to help (even if the car doesn't survive, lol)

have fun, be safe, and let us know how it (and you) did.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

go a bit bigger than 2"... 2.25 or 2.5, depending how high of an RPM the car is going to maintain during the racing.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

Magnaflows are good for the price, mine was $220 installed i think and the guy threw in a free exhaust tip. Parts i think were only $100 and the rest was labor etc. mines a 2.5", felt some gain after it was put on (probably because my stock muffler was mauled, rusty, and half of it was broken off and flying loose )

cheapest option is a Cherry Bomb turbo muffler, $40 at most places. if you really want to go ghetto you can get a ebay muffler but ebay mufflers sound like fart cannons

jimbot18

help i blew my exhaust manifold gasket. when replacing the gasket does it have to be torked down if so how many foot pounds ?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

maybe i am daft, but the 94 FSM doesn't list a tq value (im looking at page EM-31, if anyone wants to double-check me)

edit: and whadya mean blew the exh manifold gasket?


edit2: nope, not completey gone....
tq values are on em-6 for veggie(13-16), and EM-48 for VE (13-16ft-lb, then 17-20ft-lb)

D@$uPeRc[-]@RgER

I had a quick question: I bought a passenger side CV axle from autozone to replace on my 93VE auto that is a non-ABS and VLSD car. I've searched the forum and it appears that the inner side of the driver-side axle is supposed to be a 2-spline but i'm not sure if the passenger side is also supposed to be a 2-spline. I ask this because autozone gave me a 1-spline axle. this spline is the one that goes directly into the transmission and NOT the 3-bolt support bracket.

so do i have the wrong axle?

trtkatman

Whats wrong with this injector http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain

How come its so cheap. Napa quoted me like $126 or something.

I got a 92 SE 5 speed that killed #2 injector. Its got 218,000 something on it but the injectors were changed shortly before I bought it at 175,000 for $3K.

It may be for sale soon. Need a newer car for the family, but I refuse to let it go to the scrap heap. It may be a little yet though because after I find a car for the wife I will be driving the max to work while I work on rebuilding the engine in my 77 dato king cab.

TeKKiE

Does there have to be something wrong with it just because of the price? That's actually a pretty common price for a single fuel injector. Are you sure it's the injector and not the injector driver on the ECU?

Napa is more expensive because they don't sell remanufactured parts, they sell new OE equiv. part.

Foamingcow

ive got a vg30de 94 maxima and i cant get a bit of heat in the cabbin. ive replaced the thermostat in it today thinking it was stuck open but it wasnt the problem... what should i check for next? also where can i get the processes on how to get to it myself? im a very hands on kinda of person and need to get some heat in my car. ide hate to rip out the heater core but thats sounds like my only option right now, unless someone knows of something else i can look for?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

there wasnt a VG30DE, it was VG30E or VE30DE

some people say that it feels like their vents are only giving half-flow air and i think the general consensus is that its a shield/blocker in the vent that is not working properly, for no flow i dont know if it may be something else though

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

or you could buy me this, i would give my left nut for this thing, seriously. RHD Z FTMFW

http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...dIdZ161322873#

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

was going to ask this before, whats the general consensus on cold air intakes in a fairly damp environment? i was going to get a custom one made for around $300 but Eric Hsu says that using them where you get winter, and damp spring conditions like Canada is bad because your engine can get hydrolocked and my 3rd gen is a year round car. hes a smart guy, but is this fully true?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you do not want to use a rebuilt injector which is what that
$45 one is. Rebuilts fail at a rapid rate.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the amount of mental help you require is so far beyond anything even seen in movies, let alone real life......

rhd sucks for manual cars unless you're left-handed.