Yea well I got the papers from autozone today that says there's is a vg30de engine.... I thinking I have a bad hose to the heater core. I'm just trying to find out if anyones had any problmes with getting the air to blow warm heat instead of cold heat. Maybe I just need a mini heater box to plug into my lighter out let idk??

you believe what AZ has to say? if it's a 24 valve it's a VE30DE if it's a 12 valve its a VG30E belt snapper.

never snapped a belt in mine....

free fix for ya

There is a vg motor look http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VG_engine#VG30DE

cool. you can google.
still doesn't come in a 3rd gen maxima, as it will not fit.
THAT is what internetautomar was trying to say.

joys, you can fail at reading too. did you miss the part where it isn't listed as being in a maxima.
VG30DE was never used in a FWD application, it is a RWD only motor.

never believe what they say, to even use a VG30DE in a FWD car you would need to do a ton of work

and drive with no hood...

pretty much just go into the engine section and see all the work the guy with the RB26DETT 4th gen is doing to see how hard it is to do a RWD engine swap

Ok well my 90 se maxima has the little bell that goes off when you open the door. But for some reason it does it all the time, except for when the car is on. Like if i turn the car off, and close the doors, it is still doing it, and it even drained my 1 month old battery. Is there anyway i can make that stop.?

to me, it sounds like the driver's door switch is going out, or is out.
do the interior lights stay on when you close the door (do they turn on when you open the driver's door?)?
there are two reasons the dinger goes off: key is in the ignition, or the running lights are on (headlights, by proxy), and only when the driver door is open.

If my little bell doesn't work when you open the door, never did since I got the car what would the reason be? Doesn't really matter, I like it without it. Just wondering in case I decide to fix it.

not that it really matters (), the chime can go out, over time. My original cluster barely made any noise. swapped it out for a VE cluster, and the chime sounds better, now.
but, is this really your issue?

Yea its an issue to me, because im almost sure that it drained my battery. And no i always turn off the lights, the door lights also go off. But you can still hear the bell.

my car pings lounder the anyones on here and clunks in the front lick crazy ...

wtf

pings baaaaaaaad

no; do you manually turn them off, or do they turn off automagically (the overhead dimming til it turns off is included in the latter)?

****ty fuel (run premium for a while)?
tires over inflated (like a basketball)?

last time you got drunk, you wrecked it and don't remember, just like this post?

bad door shut switch perhaps?

I'm looking for front hubs for this vehicle, in order to convert my '99 Altima to 5-lug. They would need to come off of a SOHC GXE model, but I can't seem to find a place other than the dealership that sells them. I would rather buy them new considering the age of these vehicles. Thanks!

the hubs don't wear. just get some from the jy and if you are that paranoid about it, replace the wheel bearings. otherwise you're going to have to go to the dealer.

I have had Nissans for about 16 years; currently I own a 93 300zxtt, which I converted to turbo (rare slicktop).

I bought my 93 Maxima GXE the other day for $600, with 225k on the clock. Obviously, it needs some work before it becomes my DD.

First, the check engine light: I tried to run a diagnostic check on it, but all I get is a solid red LED- no flashing, no green LED. I hope that does not mean the ECU is bad.

Next, the car hesitates when I floor it. In fact, it actually accelerates faster at about 50% throttle. I'm thinking TPS or MAF. Anything else I should look at? Also, are the TPS and MAF the same parts I have on my Z32? If so, TS would be simplified somewhat.

NOTE: I replaced the fuel and air filters (which were in decent shape) and the PCV (which was oily), and the problem still exists. Also, idle speed is around 1500, and the exhaust smells extra rich. I'm sure the O2 sensor needs to be replaced, but I don't think the problem lies with that- at least not exclusively.

Last, but not least: the parking lights, dash panel lights and tail lights do not come on at all. the headlights work, as do the turn signals and brake lights. Is the switch prone to failure, or could it just be a fuse or relay that I have not located yet? I found an relay underhood, marked "foglight/ corner light" that was missing, although when I swapped in the A/C relay, nothing worked.


All in all, I feel like I got a great deal, and that this car should make a very nice DD for me to commute 60 miles per day. Everything seems to work ok so far, other than what I mentioned previously.

About time for new plugs in the car, any recommendations on what i should put in?

NGK

the red light = check engine light on the dash. you have to turn the screw to the right to access the whole green-light thingy. it's outlined in a video i made that's linked to in the general maintenance sticky (post 18 i think... been a while since i looked at it)

it should reply with a code that will hopefully indicate what is causing your weird smell and stuff.

I tried that several times already- it's the same procedure as with my 93 Z32.
The red LED stays lit, no matter what I do with the screw. Do you know how to tell if the ECU is bad? I thought there was a specific code for that...

Okay, there are three things about my oh-so-beloved Maxima that I'm slightly concerned about. Not quite worried, just concerned.

01) When I start my car, the tach shows that my revs go up around 2000rpms, which I've read is normal. However, while it's starting, it makes a noise as if a "switch was on too long." I'll link to a youtube video of a car that makes the same noise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Awp3gXe-Rs

That guy was a little dumb to rev it so much so cold though.

02) When I'm driving, particularly when it's around 6000rpm+ which is pretty rare, before it shifts, it almost seems like it sits at redline, thinking about it, and then shifts into the next gear. Also, regardless of how high the RPMs run, it almost sounds like it's gargling. Not quite sure why, ha, but that's the best way to explain it.

03) When you shut the car off, as long as it's been running for a few minutes, the whole car shuts down, but then something around the engine sounds like it's still running, and then shuts off very delayed. It almost sounds like somethings spinning...

Sorry for all the typing, these are just the best ways to describe the noises my car makes. Thanks!

Also, sorry for posting this in the 3rd gen, meant for 5th gen. Moving it now.

generally if you can't get the codes to show up at all, that means there might be an ECU problem. there's no "code" for a bad ECU cuz usually the ECU has to work to give any codes at all tho it might have a minor issue and still be able to give codes but obviously yours won't light the green LED at all. i used to have an automatic (after i did my 5spd swap) ECU but i have no idea where it is anymore. a manual ECU won't work in your car cuz yours is automatic tho. but they should be cheap from the jy. a pain in the **** to get out cuz there's basically no wrench clearance on the stupid bracket and you need an 8mm wrench... plus you have to get the tranny control unit off first, but it's possible it could be your problem.

Thanks man. That's pretty much what I thought.

I wish the ecu was located in the passenger footwell, like in my Z32.

1), the starter is going bad?
2). you are redlining, and the rev limiter is kicking in?
3). the radiator fan still spinning? open the hood and look (keep fingers away)

well it's located on the passenger side kick pannel, almost the same


I agree, tho, it would make things easier, instead of being crammed under the stereo.

92 max 103 K 3.0 engine. I am having trouble with the car shifting from 1 to 2, it has to rev up to 3K on the tach and then I have to let off befor it will shift to 2, I have done some reading and replaced the TPS which was at about 1.5 ohms closed throttle and went to open at acceleration to WOT. did not help the situation with the new one in and adjusted. any other ideas, The car has been baby all its life, I don't think the fluid has ever been changed though, it still has some red color to it, but is somewhat burnt.

all 3rd gens had a 3.0, but the 92-94 SE models had a DOHC whereas all gxe and 89-91SE had the SOHC. which is yours? (easy way to tell, under your hood on the front valve cover is there a "24-valve" sticker or not?)

anyways how well does your speedo work? generally that's the other factor that decides when and how hard to shift.

you have a fried trans.
you may be able to eek some life out of it by changing the fluid.

Just out of curiousity; my A/C compressor on my 93 GXE has a sticker for R-134a. Is that normal for that year Max, or did someone retrofit the o-rings, etc?

normal. 93 was the first year of R134a

Thank you, the sticker 24V is not there, it must be the DOHC if I remeber right its an SE with the red valve covers and the intake coming out right out the front (Straight) The speedo works good never has any problems with it.

24v = DOHC and the intake coming from near the brake booster/firewall. SOHC is 12v w/ red valve covers. all VE MUST be SE, but not all SE are VE, if that makes sense, cuz the VE didn't exist till the 4th year of our generation.

pics on the 2nd post
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothrea...postid=5107669

he has a VG GXE end of story. People think since there is 1 cam on each head it is a dual overhead cam motor.

for sure the second picture is my engine from post number 2

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