I live in san antonio. Whats shipping on that? I used to live in Johnson City TN, about an hour from Boone and Asheville though. But that doesn't help now does it.

shipping would be alot.. but there's a chance that i might be in either OK or TX sometime within the next few months. not sure how long you can wait tho, before having the car driveable again.

Just a random project we bought from an auction, and were waiting for a title anyways. But how much would you be wanting for all the stuff?

$300 for everything i have available.

So basically no hope of fixing the trans in the car allready, correct?

if it's that bad off, then it would basically need a rebuild which is almost always over $1500. and if you're sure that the linkage/shifter works properly then it would def be a problem with the tranny. even if you could change out the fluid odds are it's been neglected for a long time and would fail shortly even with fresh fluid. same goes for junkyard trannies, well, specifically junkyard re4f02a's. they were designed for a 4cyl, then nissan said "let's put one on the maxima!" well.. 50% more torque through a weak tranny tends to equal "kablammo" more often than not. mine fell on its face at 162k miles, assuming it was the original tranny.

but heck, for around $800 total investment you could have a 5spd car that, depending how you drive, gets 20-30mpg and might surprise a passenger or two.

what year/trim is it btw? just curious. if it happens to be an early-year SE then you're in better shape than i thought, as those have stiffer springs/rear swaybar/struts than the GXE, therefore more fun to drive.

It is a 94 it doesn't say se or gxe on it. Its going to be a daily, I have a turbo miata right now, i keep doing more stuff to it, and it is getting stupid to drive everyday. I thought 300 was a deal, but you know, i just had knee surgery and really dont have much time to work on 2 cars being in the military. I figured it was all together and running, you cant drive them before you bid I am considering keeping it, and am just trying to weigh my options. I know 800 for the car would be a good deal, but coming up with the time to screw with it is the tough thing.

easiest way to tell is SE have sawblade rims, a wing, whiteface gauges and black mirrors, GXE have bodycolor mirrors, no wing, straight blade rims, and blackface gauges

what was the original question??

this thread is a collaboration of questions, usually only the last few posts with questions are unanswered and the rest have been answered

My bad chrome.

How many post do i need to make a F/S thread...??

well starting in 92 the SE got a dual-cam engine (VE), while the GXE kept the VG that all 89-91 models had. so since yours is a 92-94 with a vg, that means it's a GXE. Not necessarily a bad thing since you want it as a daily driver though.. even an SE, hell, even a maxima with thousands of dollars worth of suspension mods (yes there is that much stuff available if you count chassis bracing) would get embarrassed by your Miata any time there was a bend in the road, since i'm guessing you have done suspension mods to the Miata as well.

at any rate... my first 5spd swap (my car) took me 12 days. my 2nd one (on nc90gxe's car) took 4 nights mainly cuz we spent part of the time waiting on parts to be shipped in. If i had all day and the car in front of me, i could probably knock it out in a day flat now.

are you sure it is coming from that exact location and not, say, underneath a valve cover or something? unless the cap is warped or something there's not really anything that should knock inside there. if you have a camera that takes decent video and more importantly decent sound, try uploading it to youtube or something so we can hear what you hear.

you need 15 posts, OT and Test posts dont count so the easiest way to get the 15 is to post in the general section, newbie thread (here) or regional section. general section has threads like "what did you do to your Maxima today" and "things that **** you off about your Maxima", those threads are kinda random so theyre the easiest way to get up to 15

go post in this thread : http://forums.maxima.org/southeast-u...read-1728.html

nothing in that thread is meant to be taken seriously, so just make gay jokes or something until you get to 15 posts.

Trouble starting '92 GXE, replaced the ignition switch, fuel relay, and fuel pump. Could it be the alrm system stopping car from starting (fuel pump ingauging)? I have to trun the key several times then finally hear the fuel pump kick on, after that the car starts and runs. Now the car did die on me in the middle of the road last time I started it. What else runs off the of the alrm system fuse? I pulled it and the car starts every time?? Any suggestions for this?
thanks,

Noob question: What is the proper way to take out/put back the bottom half of the air cleaner box? I had a hard time taking it out and ended up ripping two of the rubber bushings (which were bad anyway) when trying to put it back. It's still not placed properly and had to fight with the top half to go in properly.

if you are having problems, feel free to disconnect the intake pipe from the top half. it will give you more room to finangle it into position, and get the clips on

(bushings? there are supposed to be bushings there?)

i just connected it to the top half of the airbox and said **** it... it's too much of a PITA to slide those stupid bushings back into the little bracket things. as long as it doesn't rattle around then it won't hurt anything being a bit loose like that. besides you'll like the way it sounds better with a conical filter.

or you can do what we did on my friend's elantra.... take the lower airbox out, and get some thin gauge wire and wrap around the filter to hold it onto the upper airbox. it sounded alot better afterwards haha

thats actually what some people thought was causing my no-start issue, try disengaging the alarm and see if the no-start still occurs

Im new here and I.... JK. Had my Maxima since 1990, done and searched for everything but one thing I cant find and its small and dumb. The plastics holders on the window regulator that hold the window. Where the hell do you find those things? Need 4 of them.

You can't buy the broken pieces, you have to replace the entire regulator assembly..

Mine is pretty smooth/accurate, might be just lucky. I did adjust C.C. cable after tuning I.A.C.V , setting T.P.S. with meter and adjusting throttle cable to spec. Still equally likely I am lucky to have an accurate one!

We got a '94 GXE for my son a few weeks ago. So far things are going great. One weird thing though. When you shut the door, the dome light goes off instead of delaying/dimming down for 10-15 seconds until it goes out completely. I assume their is some sort of relay that may have gone bad but I haven't been able to find anything yet.

2 Nissan dealerships were of no help.

Any suggestions?

lol. you find out what thing dims that light, and I will swap you! I absolutely ABHOR that dimming light.
seriously, though. your time control unit has apparently gone bad. it's a little black box, underneath the dash. they are cheap at the junk yard, and rarely go bad. I have heard of less than half a dozen, including yours, and mine at one point.

not bad at all.. my VG got as good as 31.5mpg, but that was only after I converted the car over to a 5spd. best i ever got with the auto was about 25. i wonder if your silver valve covers give you better MPG whereas my red ones gave me more h0rsepow3rz!

i had my timing advanced by 3 degrees, and ran 89 octane. for stock timing, 87 or 89 will be adequate.. unless you live in really hot climate that causes your car to ping in the summer.

I'm in the middle of my first timing belt replacement. It's a '93 GXE with VG30E engine. I followed the Nissan service manual, lining up the white lines on the belt with the punchmarks on the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket. Everything lined up great. However, when I turn the engine over by hand, every three rotations, the belt white lines end up one notch to the right of the aligning marks at TDC. This repeats every three full engine rotations, so now the belt white marks are two teeth to the right of the aligning marks. Should the white marks on the belt always align with the aligning marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets?

Did I mount the belt wrong or is this the way it's supposed to happen? Sorry for the stupid question (I'm a NOOB!), but I don't want to start this thing up and ruin the engine. BTW, 225,000 miles on the car and was running strong before trying this repair. Thanks for your reply in advance!

Well I haven't been able to fine the control unit. I pulled off the knee panel and looked around. I also googled and went to ebay to see if I could get a picture of it. I also looked in my Haynes manual; it does list the unit but shows no part number or location. The Haynes manual shows it to be a four-wire plug.

Is this located by the fuse box or up higher by the instrument cluster? Also, what else does this control? (OMG! According to Haynes, there is a light green wire that runs from the time control unit to the Air Bag Control Unit.)

Thanks for any info. you can give!

check this PDF. it should show all the wiring diagrams and part locations.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/el.pdf

it'll only line up before you rotate it. keep in mind, it takes TWO rotations of the engine to make ONE rotation of the cams. but the number of teeth on the belt is not divisible by the number of teeth on the sprockets as far as i'm aware... so depending whether or not there are any common prime factors.. you might have to spin the engine by hand through 144 rotations to have the marks on the belt line up again.

therefore, as long as the dots on the sprockets line up with the dots on the backplate/oilpump after any even number of crank rotations, then you'll be fine.

Oh yeah, I hear a exhaust leak. Almost sounds like a loud fuel injector -

I hope it is not the exhaust manifold - is that a common problem?

I've already planted the seed that it is the "Y" pipe and that I found one on the internet.....

best thing is when its cool at night, aim a flashlight on your exhaust and see if you can spot any leaks, but it should be easy in the day to just look at your muffler if thats maybe the problem

Thanks, Wookie!

Got it all back together and she started right up! Of course, nothing on these old engines is that easy.... the number two spark plug was very hard to turn and started to strip, so I stopped trying and left it in. I believe due to its location right next to the intake, a previous mechanic may have cross threaded it into the hole. Do you have any recommendations on how to get it out? Should I just take it to a dealer for evaluation? Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it!

just wondering i remember someone wondering what this cylinder in their 3rd gens trunk was doing, and someone said that its a 22lb weight or something just for weight in the rear, where exactly is it? i remember someone posting it doesnt hurt anything to remove it

you're not even a noob! the thread is still on page 1

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ube-trunk.html

mine doesnt have that its just got one big grey board pull-down and from there its straight back seat with the middle cushion, and no lump in the middle. maybe only US models had it, because my Canadian model has no speaker cover like the NZ version as well

yea i'm starting to think it's a USDM-GXE-only thing. I bet if JDM GXE-equivalent models had one you'd be all over that ish, eh?

o and i was 'ing you for not finding the thread right there on page 1, not for not finding the damper in your own car and the dude with the speaker covers said he made those himself.. it wasn't a factory thing at all.

lol i shoulda saw that thread on page one, i thought it was part of a threadjack in another thread

i would want a RHD GXE in a second, its just that some people i know in Japan said theres few there, and i would have to import one myself from NZ or AUS and i just want something thats already got out-of-Province inspection and the paperwork done. i want the louvre from a NZ model though. i could RHD swap mine (Import tuner had a guy with a RSX i think it was that got RHD swapped in the US) but thats so much labor/cash that i would rather be bumping boost than driving on the right side

some people do import weird cars though, i saw a RHD Integra last week and i think it was a base model, not even a Type R

i meant just the damper thingy.. if it came on JDM 3rd gens you'd be all over it lol. but seriously... RHD is semi-unsafe in LHD countries... otherwise all cars worldwide would be the same regardless which side of the road they drove on. mainly for visibility when you don't have the right of way, like right-on-red, or turning left w/o a green arrow.

its actually not that bad viewwise driving RHD, but i wouldnt trust women for a second in a RHD car