nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

i went today to a local paint shop n they will paint my max for $350 ,includes paint, and two coats of clear. they strip it and all for that price. im thinkin of going wit black.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

there has to be a catch somewhere, even Maaco is like $500 or something to just spray over your old paint, a decent paintjob is rarely under $1500+

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

black is nice, depending on where you live. if it's always hot and sunny, I would advise against.
also, $350 is incredibly cheap. I mean, good paint costs almost that much. just to advise, you get what you pay for.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

son i ninja posted yo ***

93_MAX_i_MA

thx guys, my mom drove my car yesterday and i dont know what happend, i checked my fuses, but i was wondering if 1 fuse can cause the horn, tailights, hazard lights, radio, and interior lights not to work, because i changed the horn fuse that looked blown but it still doesnt work..could it be the relays under neath the reservoir?? this is confusing

edit: sorry i didnt quote it

93_MAX_i_MA

^^^^^

7mJoe

So I finished my transmission swap. I replaced all the ,and now, as of yesterday, I'm leaking oil. It looks like its coming from around the bottom of the transmission where it meets the block. Could it be the rear main seal? I replaced it with a new one and I made sure I seated it correctly. What could be the cause of this? I know it isn't transmission fluid. It's engine oil for sure. Could the rear main still be seating itself or something? Why all of a sudden after a week has it started to leak?

dtfstock

iTrader: (2)

Geez, might be worth a road trip if yours works out well. I can't get anyone under $1500 for mine and none want to put the Stillen kit on.

But I am with the others, you tend to get what you pay for.

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

catch is that maaco is across the street lol so dey take all there customers.

man if u see the paint on my car u would want to paint it asap lol
its gold but the paints fawked up n flaking

im in south carolina now, not in new york

Gheremy harrison

system sounds so nice on my vg.. but, i have a problem lol its with my windows.. it was raining one day and my windows got foggy.. so i let them down to clear the fog and when trying to go bak up, they all went up except my rear paassenger window.. i heard a snap and now the window doesnt go up.. u can hear the motor going and it goes as if the window is going up then it stops.. i can push the window up and down, and the window will go down by using the switch but not up.. anyone think they could help me with this?? 89 nissan maxima se 5spd

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the regulator pooped its self. need a new one, as it can't be fixed. ebay is cheap.

Gheremy harrison

regulator.. ok thanks.. should i take it to a some kind of shop to get it fixed or is it fairly easy to replace??

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

30-45 minute job your first time in, not hard to do. raise the window, tape in place (lots of masking tape will be fine), remove the door panel, unbolt the old regulator, remove it (hardest part of the job), install is reversed.

Gheremy harrison

yeah sounds pretty eaasy.. now my front passenger is doin the same thing too.. only difference with the front one is sometimes itll catch and go up.. buut then pops agains and stops.. so i guess need two regulators.. shouldnt be expensive right?? im going to try the install myself

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

30-45 each on ebay. you can get the regulators only, or the regulators with motors. without is cheaper, but more work. I personally would reuse your motors, and save some green for other stuff.

cheerblondie

hi, i have a 2008 nissan titan and ICM (ignition control module) went bad an left me stranded in a city when i was going home, is there an easy way to fix this? or do i need to take it in? how much will it cost?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

not only the wrong forum, but all together the wrong platform....

Sign up over here-----> http://www.titantalk.com/forums/

604recovery

I drive a 1992 Nissan Maxima SE with 153km on it. Recently I've noticed that when I set the car to park on a slope (even a very slight one) and don't use the hand brake, the car slides a good 1-2 feet before the wheels actually lock. From what I've researched on the internet, this is a parking pawl issue, and can only be fixed by popping out the tranny.

I went to my local Mr. Transmission and they said they have to pop out the transmission to see what the issue is, which alone is a $550CAD job. Another $600 for a replacement tranny if mine is damaged beyond repair, plus fluids and labour, he said the MAX for this job is $1300, min $800. I simply don't have this kind of money to put into the car, I'm a broke *** student.

My question is: is this an issue that is a common transmission problem? Is there any kind of online literature I can read regarding this issue, be it fixes or even descriptions of similar transmission problems? What is the best way to go about finding the best price? Just phoning a bunch of transmission shops around my area?

Thanks in advance.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep sounds to me like the parking pawl. keep getting estimates, but if your E brake is strong, it should be able to hold the weight until you can get it fixed

or get a good tranny and swap them out yourself, theres lots of articles here on how to do it. or, see if theres any members here in your area. lots would help out for a few bucks and a case of beer

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

as Chrome said, pretty much. If your e-brake works, use it if you can't afford to replace it.

oh, it is NOT a common problem. usually this only happens by forcing it into park while it's rolling.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

FML, he said he will have to get them from the supplier, and of course theyre discontinued. so, in about 5 days im expecting to hear "sorry, theyre discontinued blah blah blah"

right now i have KYB GR2 struts on my 3rd gen, though ive heard that you can do a drop on them and the mechanic that did my engine said he thinks its doable. think it is with a 2" drop? if not, i'll have to bite the bullet and maybe just buy Koni's

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep, not a common problem. the pawl is kinda like teeth that lock so you stay in park and dont move. the only way these teeth can excessively wear out is if you throw it into park while youre moving, or its been parked on alot of inclines without using the Ebrake so the pawl is taking all of the weight. i ALWAYS use my Ebrake before i park, that way you dont get any rollback when you park on a incline hence saving the pawl

some people even go as far as puting it in neutral before park so that the Ebrake takes the full load instead of the pawl

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

my lesbian auto teacher got me into that habit.. pretty good one too.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

a woman teaching auto? thats only one of 2 things wrong with this situation

ujm

Greetings everyone.

Last night, the misses and I were shopping at Menards, and they had a decent looking right angle drill for less than $40.00

And a left handed drill bit, so this morning, I'm going to try and work up the energy to try and drill out one or more of the broken exhaust studs - without removing the manifold.....

Wish me luck!

If all goes really well, might even try to install that nice Warp Speed "Y" pipe that has been collecting dust in the garage.....

ujm

Well, that did not take long.

I've got a brand new in the box Warp Speed Y Pipe I'd sell for $150.00 cash and carry - North of KCMO area

And those broken exhaust studs, well, I'll stick with motorcycles and my old 944.....

Make a great parts car for somebody, until then, I'm driving it as it is.

Gheremy harrison

ok i need some help.. my engine temp gauge only works sometimes and i dont know where to look to see if maybe wires or messed up or something.. Where should i look to diagnose this problem?

Hatmanafro

iTrader: (1)

isint the temp gauge at the same location as the thermostat?

shiloh51933

iTrader: (5)

I would like to see what kind of paint job you get for 350 man, I mean that don't sound correct for 2 clear coats. Post her after you get it done so we can all see how she looks.

Gheremy harrison

no the gauge is inside the car.. but isnt there a sensor or something?? maybe some wiring that could have a shortage that a could find..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

sensor is a spade connector by the right side strut tower, on the water neck. mine was doing this, which caused a fluttery needle on bumpy roads and under hard acceleration

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

will do, but it wont be for a while, gotta save up for it, too many bills right now man lol

ill make a thread on it

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

+1. i'll be surprised if it doesnt flake and peel within 3 months. if it lasts over a year, i'll shat my pants

nyc_ink

iTrader: (1)

lmao hey its worth giving it a try compared to what it looks like now. i was tempted to do it myself wit spray cans. one of the guys from autozone over her did his whole nissan 250 sx with spray cans and clear and it looks shop done.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i think one of CapedCadaver's Z31 are rattle canned. if your paint is really that crappy its worth a try, i have actually seen some spray can jobs that look really decent

Gheremy harrison

so what do i need to do to it? tighten it replace it??

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Just replace it...they are $9 at autozone...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

and five minutes to swap.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

which, the red one? that's just a 100% lack of clearcoat, the paint is original. the white one has some fhaggoty-azz red stripes that the PO painted on it, which i'm taking off with sandpaper. but neither one of them is rattlecanned.

Mattx4

hey. i have a 91 max se. lately the car has been givin me some trouble. intermittently, the car will hesitate to accelerate from a complete stop or a slow start, then will all of a sudden take off after i jam the pedal down. also, the car seems to backfire? kind of like post ignition in the cat. converter? it only does this every few days or so and only for a little while. finally, a couple days ago the car was running a little rough and right before i pulled in my driveway the CEL came on. i checked the ecu for codes and came up with a 45 (leaking fuel injector?). i then reset the ecu and the car is running fine. i have thouroughly inspected the fuel injectors and i cannot find a leak. they all seem to be working properly as well but i ran some injector cleaner through just to be sure. i live in mohave valley, az and the average temp. around here is 110-120 degrees every day in the summer. could this have anything to do with it? the car is not overheating according to the temp gauge. also, a few months ago i took some advice from a friend and bored a few holes in the stock air box. this was supposed to increase airflow and horse power. all it really does is sound cool. could this be a problem? maybe the MAF isn't calculating the airflow correctly? these are just guesses. can anyone help me out with some solid answers? thanks in advance.