yeah dont go Maaco. with the cheaper jobs they dont prep, just paint over your current paint so the new paint flakes within months. i wouldnt be surprised if with the better job they just half decent prep. not worth it

 

1990 maxima. battery/brake light were coming on for a second, then stayed off for a few days. that stopped now the battery light on by itself but very dim.. Alt passed when I took it off the car. but when autozone checked it while still on the car it showed voltage regulator failed. getting 12.13 volts at idle and less when i give it gas. batt shows 12.30 with car off, but was 12.40 yesterday so it's losing voltage the more i drive.
What would make the test show voltage regulator failure if the alt/volt reg pass when not on car??

 

bad ground? bad wiring for the voltage regulator plug itself? if bench tests pass and on-car tests fail.. maybe it's what's between the alternator and "end-components" (lights, etc)

 

High, I have read these forums for months in search of my problem with limited luck. I have a 92 VG and it has an intermittent problem. It will cold start and run fine, but occasionally on a hot restart it misses very bad and throws white smoke. It will barely move unless you floor it and then it jumps. This seems to happen most often with 1/4 tank or less. Here is what I have done so far. O2, water sensor, 3 new Bosch fuel injectors and 3 rebuilt- big mistake as many have said here, fuel pump and hose. I have also done timing belt, water pump, CV joints etc but those things are unrelated.
I need help and I am hoping you Masters can solve my intermittent rich situation. Oh yea, I pulled the plugs and they were all about the same color, the old injectors were a bit darker but not much. Also I have all new plugs and wires and cap.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Does anyone have any ideas?????

More data; 100000 miles on the car and it was well maintained through the years.

Can the quantity of fuel in the tank cause the rich miss and still allow it to jump at full throttle?

 

Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor, yet? cheaper than an injector, and basic maintenance, anyway.

 

Yes I replaced the coolant temp sensor, the O2 sensor and the fans do turn when needed. I made the mistake of getting used (rebuilt) injectors and after having them fail 1 by 1 I changed 3 out for new Bosch. I figured it would be a month or two until one of the old ones failed and I would change the other three. The injectors all Ohm correctly now and the plugs look about the same.

I live in Florida (hot) and I wonder if the bottom o-ring is leaking when hot or the fuel pressure reg is allowing the pressure to get to high and flowing by the bottom o-ring causing the rich miss.

Thanks for the reply...

 

One more thing: The thing has never thrown a code, the computer shows 55.

I think I need an exorcist...

 

My driver's side window came off it's track or something. It won't go up and just falls into the door. Can I just take off the door trim and put the window back on? Would this explain why it took forever and a day to roll up? Do the motors go out often?

 

Sounds more like the window regulator went out. Common problem for third gens. If you hear the window motor running when you use the window switch then it's the regulator.

 

hi guys, i have a 1992 maxima SE and i'm about to replace my driver's side wheel bearing and hub. i have the hub assembly, wheel bearing, and seals, but can not seem to find snap rings anywhere. monument auto parts is my last resort if i can't do anything tonight, since they are open tomorrow and usually have harder to find parts. but my question is this...can i install my wheel bearings with ONLY the grease seals, and no snap rings? would it cause any damage if i installed the grease seals, pressed the bearing in tonight, and installed everything? or is the snap ring an essential part?

thanks

 

snap rings are essential. they hold the bearing in the knuckle.
reuse the old snap rings, you are supposed to, unless they got fubar from a previous bad bearing.

 

my wheel bearing and hub is so bad, i would be surprised if the snap rings were still in one piece

 

Hello i have a 92 Maxima gxe car ran fine with new tps,wires plugs cap and rotor,also new fuel injectors. I got error code 51- 2 weeks before the pump went completely out. water pump had a slow leak then went out completely, it overheated very briefly under 3 minutes before i parked it. I replaced the water pump but did not touch the timing belt. used the started to break the crankshaft pulley bolt. reassembled the engine and the car would turn over but not start. I have set top dead center at least 40-60 times set rotor to position 1 to no avail. Its getting fuel and good spark with error code 51, the eccs came back no issues. had a mobile mechanic come out and we set top dead center many times on compression and the car would not start. we noticed the engine seems to be starting faster than normal. also when i initially was starting it we heard a crunch from the engine and there was the sound of hissing air coming out at high pressure but could not find the source as it only happened like 2-3 times and now does not do it on cranking. i got the car to run very poorly by setting the rotor to spark plug 1 randomly not checking for tdc but it would die after starting and did not like me reving it up much, was missing and slight backfire. Not sure where to go from here was wondering if the aavc could have something to do with this, and help at all would be gratly appreciated. the car ran fine before the water pump went out. Thank you Update i have set to top dead center and lined up the rotor with spark plug 1 repeatedly and car will not start still.

 

Is it an easy fix?

 

nissan # 4021430R00
any dealership parts dept should have or beable to get this; about $3ea.
(source: http://nissan4u.com/parts/maxima/us_...llustration_3/)

 

relatively.
the regs have a weak design, and one of the cable slides breaks.
ebay ones are "fixed," strengthening this slide.
first time removing the reg will take about an hour. if you know your way around a door panel, a little quicker than that. hardest part will probably be getting the glass back up, and keeping it there (blue masking tape will hold it, once up). everything else is simply turning a wrench/screw driver and unsnapping a few electrical connectors.

 

seems to me the timing belt would need to be moved/removed to pull/replace the water pump. did you touch the belt tensioner?
check compression, yet?

 

i did not touch the timing belt or tensioner the belt looked fine. compression seems to be good u can feel good resistance turning the crankshaft with a wrench when is close to tdc.

 

Set engine to TDC, pull the distributor out, turn the engine one full turn (so the cams are at exhaust stroke instead of intake stroke), reinstall dizzy and see how that does.

Also are you installing the dizzy per the FSM picture or the text instructions? the drawing is incorrect since it's from a Z31.

 

1990 Maxima. been having problems with my alt supplying enough volt to the batt. all wires/grounds are clean, alt/volt reg is good, belt tension and batt are good.. Batt light is dim and i measure about 12-12.5 volts at idle; when I give it a few hard revs batt light turns off and I get +14V. there's a whinning noise that goes with rpm.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXej4PmypzA and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBo53...eature=related are exactly what I'm hearing.

1) How can I check if pulley a may need replacing?
2) How can I check crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer?
3) Could the power steering/water pump belt or pulleys cause issues on the alternator belt?

power steering/water pump haven't given me any problems and engine runs smooth, but the problem has to be with the pulley/belt system because I'm all out of other options. Don't have ac belt on, no freon..


Thanks

 

yeah i am going to order one tomorrow. i have another question....the bearing should be pressed into the hub correct? or is it better to have it pressed into the spindle?

 

Im installing the dist. by eyeballing where rotor sits in relation to the stud for spark plug 1. I will try this later though see how it goes.

 

Thanks man. Sounds like a cake walk! Now I just have to get started!

 

you press the bearing into the hub until it seats against the outer snap ring. install the inner snap ring and both seals. (If you press it against the inner snap ring, the hub will often rub against the outside of the spindle when you press it all together.)

Now flip the spindle over and press the wheel hub into the bearing/spindle assembly.

while you're pressing the bearing in, be sure to only press on the race that needs the force. i.e. when pressing the bearing into the knuckle, ONLY press on the outer section. when pressing in the hub, ONLY press on the inner section. it's kinda a PITA, but usually I just use the old bearing and shave some meat off the outside diameter so it doesn't stick in the spindle.


grab yourself a service manual and read the instructions. you're probably a tooth or two off.

 

matt in the noobie thread..?

 

I'm stuck on an oil rig and there's no flights home due to weather. I'm boooooooooored.

 

ic...carry on..

 

Anyone know of a how-to for replacing the valve cover gaskets?

How much of a pain is it?

 

it's easy if you know how to time a distributor and pull the intake manifold.

all instructions needed are in the FSM. there's links in the stickies.

 

Hi.. Noob here,

Sunroof on my 91 leeks when it poors rain but not other then than that. I cleaned out the drainage channels and drain hoses as best I could (couldn't see the rear hoses) and it's a lot better but...

the weather stripping "lip" that sticks down vertically around the room edge is mostly falling off. How can I replace/fix this?

 

Oh and I need to replace the overhead "spot" light switch for the passenger side light up where the sunroof controls and "spot" light's are. Anybody know how I can figure out what part number to use to get another one from Mouser or the like?

 

FSM??

Is it really that hard?

 

meh, "FSM" is our way of saying "Nissan said it best, why repeat?"
(fsm is "Factory Service Manual")

 

Ah.

Well now I'm thinking this is too difficult for me.

I got quoted $235 for the VCG and PCV valve.

Is that decent considering the plenum needs pulled and the distributor needs timed?

 

Hey everyone. I'm new here. I have a 1991 Maxima SE. It's my daily driver....I work on Hot Rods and this thing is a great commuter for me. I really love the car. It cruises at 80-90 effortlessly....but the input shaft bearing is going bad. I'd really like to swap in a lsd tranmission from a 1992-? Is this swap possible? what do I need? where can I find a transmission? I have only found one so far(non-lsd) with 180,000 thousand on it and the guy wanted $700 bucks. Seems like a lot of money for that high of miles. I know these things are getting hard to find. Is that a good price? I can't justify paying more for a trans than I did for the car....but I also can't justify scrapping it. I'm just not sure what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Help me keep my max on the road! thanks. Matt

 

you can use the VLSD 5spd from 92-94 SE (VE's) with some small modifications. you can use a VE auto tranny as well, but its significantly harder to do

that price seems steep to me but then again it varies by area

 

I've read that i need to swap hubs and axles to the same used with the lsd trans. But I haven't been able to confirm it. I should mention that mine is a manual.

 

best thing to do would be hit search up top, hit "advanced search", then highlight "search by relevancy" on the bottom, highlight the "3rd gen" section on the right, and search "5spd swap". theres alot of good older threads on what you need/how to do it that explain better than i can

 

Anyone know if E36 rims fit 3rd gen maxi's? I have a set of oem 15x7 40 or 41 mm offset (cant quite remember but theyre somewhere inthe low 40's) bbs rims that might look decent.
kthx

 

E36 are 5x120 bolt pattern, no go