*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#5601
So it's been about 2 weeks since I finished swapping my transmission, and replacing various seals, and the clutch. Only problem is that after I fixed the transmission leak, oil started leaking from somewhere!
It's pooling and dripping from where the tranny meets the block. It's not a ton of oil, but any oil leak is cause for concern. It's a brand new rear main seal so I can't imagine that would be leaking. I read that it could be the oil pan gasket, or valve covers but I'm skeptical. I know for a fact it's engine oil. The transmission is not leaking, I've already checked.
Any other ideas? Is it possible the rear main is leaking? What are the chances of a brand new seal being bad? The leak is worse after it's been driven a long distance.
It's pooling and dripping from where the tranny meets the block. It's not a ton of oil, but any oil leak is cause for concern. It's a brand new rear main seal so I can't imagine that would be leaking. I read that it could be the oil pan gasket, or valve covers but I'm skeptical. I know for a fact it's engine oil. The transmission is not leaking, I've already checked.
Any other ideas? Is it possible the rear main is leaking? What are the chances of a brand new seal being bad? The leak is worse after it's been driven a long distance.
#5602
search for the kit on ebay, i think i payed like $125 for control arms/ball joints/ inner and outer tie rods.
edit*
this is the kit i bought, here yah go bruh
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BALL-...ht_1933wt_1167
edit*
this is the kit i bought, here yah go bruh
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BALL-...ht_1933wt_1167
i bought the set, and it comes from Ontario so it should ship fast
#5603
no prob bro. yea what ever is in the pic is what u get. no mounts. i installed it all my self, its pretty easy. i was gonna buy it all separate too till i came across the kit and i was like wtf imma get this instead. lol
#5604
FML this Ebay seller didnt really have the struts in stock so im just going to drop on the KYB and get chassis work done to handle it, im replacing the brake pads tomorrow as well as desiezing the one caliper, so once the suspension parts come im set thanks again, you saved me at least $100
#5605
oic, are the mounts hard to get from a junkyard car?
FML this Ebay seller didnt really have the struts in stock so im just going to drop on the KYB and get chassis work done to handle it, im replacing the brake pads tomorrow as well as desiezing the one caliper, so once the suspension parts come im set thanks again, you saved me at least $100
FML this Ebay seller didnt really have the struts in stock so im just going to drop on the KYB and get chassis work done to handle it, im replacing the brake pads tomorrow as well as desiezing the one caliper, so once the suspension parts come im set thanks again, you saved me at least $100
#5608
nope. you might (and i cannot overemphasize "might" enough...) be able to get away with using the trans computer and flexplate off a nissan quest, and the axles/trans from a 92-94 DOHC maxima to put on a 89-94 SOHC tho... it's just kind of a hassle when you could just do a 92-94 DOHC manual swap instead and have a faster better car that still has the advantage of the DOHC's limited slip diff.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 07-23-2010 at 08:08 AM.
#5610
#5611
Well yes car does have an exhaust leak. ((Ya know the Bolts missing..****ing 2 bolts or w.e. missing))
Had an auto shop work on it because of this to pass inspection..., and they ripped me off. Came back the day after I got it back from those chinkee fu@#)*$ ..
Had an auto shop work on it because of this to pass inspection..., and they ripped me off. Came back the day after I got it back from those chinkee fu@#)*$ ..
So $750 down the drain and still have an exhaust leak.
Is that what makes it sound like a motorcycle? Primarily?
#5612
Well yes car does have an exhaust leak. ((Ya know the Bolts missing..****ing 2 bolts or w.e. missing))
Had an auto shop work on it because of this to pass inspection..., and they ripped me off. Came back the day after I got it back from those chinkee fu@#)*$ ..
Had an auto shop work on it because of this to pass inspection..., and they ripped me off. Came back the day after I got it back from those chinkee fu@#)*$ ..
So $750 down the drain and still have an exhaust leak.
Is that what makes it sound like a motorcycle? Primarily?
EDIT- you can maybe see where the exhaust leak is if you start it on a cold morning and look under the car but with it being summer thats kinda hard
Last edited by chrome91; 07-23-2010 at 04:12 PM.
#5614
#5615
Hey I could post a new thread too.., but I just didnt want to create spam. Guess I will next time though.. ((Guess you want me to not post in here as well))
#5617
HELP
Hey, Im back.. I couldnt get to understand that a poster here, I think NYC told me to check to see if its a bad fuel injector which I pulled each one of them and the motor still running. Its still driveable but how it is possible to have all 6 fuel injectors goes bad if its still driveable?
My car still jerking after 2k RPM...I checked google through to see whats caused the car to jerking? My guess that jerking could cause
PVC Valve?
Valve Cover Gasket? (a little smoke come out where the valve gasket that supposed to sealed) Is that normal? I do not know if it caused to jerking
Throttle Position Sensor?
Or maybe it needs tuned up like replaces spark plugs?
Suppose a fuel pump goes bad, does it caused my car to jerking and I couldnt press the pedal to gas it when its stalling or jerking while driving.
Do Nissan Dealership fix the older Maximas? Because none of mechanics that I sent my car to two different garages could figure it out and telling me that the motor is fine which it is not. Does this Maxima of year 1991 have a computer diagonostic?
My car still jerking after 2k RPM...I checked google through to see whats caused the car to jerking? My guess that jerking could cause
PVC Valve?
Valve Cover Gasket? (a little smoke come out where the valve gasket that supposed to sealed) Is that normal? I do not know if it caused to jerking
Throttle Position Sensor?
Or maybe it needs tuned up like replaces spark plugs?
Suppose a fuel pump goes bad, does it caused my car to jerking and I couldnt press the pedal to gas it when its stalling or jerking while driving.
Do Nissan Dealership fix the older Maximas? Because none of mechanics that I sent my car to two different garages could figure it out and telling me that the motor is fine which it is not. Does this Maxima of year 1991 have a computer diagonostic?
Last edited by Motorexskygtr32; 07-26-2010 at 12:43 PM.
#5618
Craigslist
Trying to sell craigslist and igot this at my email?? let me know if it sounds legit because it sounds like a scam to me..
Sounds Good
I'm okay with the price & condition. my mode of payment is through a Bank Certified Check, which is drawn from my Bank and is generally acceptable for cashout, don't worry about the shipment, i will arrange for the shipment after you must have cashed the check and have your cash at hand. The check we be delivered to your location via UPS within 1-2 business days. Provide me with your full name which the check will be payable and your contact address where the check will be delivered also with your contact #. Kindly remove the Ad if you are interested in selling to me to avoid interruption by others. am waiting your reply.
Thomas Cortwright
1451 S San Ray
Green Valley, AZ 85622T
is that good or no?? help!
Sounds Good
I'm okay with the price & condition. my mode of payment is through a Bank Certified Check, which is drawn from my Bank and is generally acceptable for cashout, don't worry about the shipment, i will arrange for the shipment after you must have cashed the check and have your cash at hand. The check we be delivered to your location via UPS within 1-2 business days. Provide me with your full name which the check will be payable and your contact address where the check will be delivered also with your contact #. Kindly remove the Ad if you are interested in selling to me to avoid interruption by others. am waiting your reply.
Thomas Cortwright
1451 S San Ray
Green Valley, AZ 85622T
is that good or no?? help!
#5619
Trying to sell craigslist and igot this at my email?? let me know if it sounds legit because it sounds like a scam to me..
Sounds Good
I'm okay with the price & condition. my mode of payment is through a Bank Certified Check, which is drawn from my Bank and is generally acceptable for cashout, don't worry about the shipment, i will arrange for the shipment after you must have cashed the check and have your cash at hand. The check we be delivered to your location via UPS within 1-2 business days. Provide me with your full name which the check will be payable and your contact address where the check will be delivered also with your contact #. Kindly remove the Ad if you are interested in selling to me to avoid interruption by others. am waiting your reply.
Thomas Cortwright
1451 S San Ray
Green Valley, AZ 85622T
is that good or no?? help!
Sounds Good
I'm okay with the price & condition. my mode of payment is through a Bank Certified Check, which is drawn from my Bank and is generally acceptable for cashout, don't worry about the shipment, i will arrange for the shipment after you must have cashed the check and have your cash at hand. The check we be delivered to your location via UPS within 1-2 business days. Provide me with your full name which the check will be payable and your contact address where the check will be delivered also with your contact #. Kindly remove the Ad if you are interested in selling to me to avoid interruption by others. am waiting your reply.
Thomas Cortwright
1451 S San Ray
Green Valley, AZ 85622T
is that good or no?? help!
copy the email address here, so people can google it and know it's another spammer.
remember to mark it as spam, too.
edit: how much do you want for craigslist? does it include the foreign sites, or just ones from your locale
#5620
so its for sure a scam??
thomas.cortwright001@live.com thats email address
thomas.cortwright001@live.com thats email address
#5621
so its for sure a scam??
thomas.cortwright001@live.com thats email address
thomas.cortwright001@live.com thats email address
never accept payment via mail, nor agree to sell anything on craigslist that you don't meet in person.
these kinds of scams are common, and I have seen enough to know crap off of the first few words.
#5623
Hey, Im back.. I couldnt get to understand that a poster here, I think NYC told me to check to see if its a bad fuel injector which I pulled each one of them and the motor still running. Its still driveable but how it is possible to have all 6 fuel injectors goes bad if its still driveable?
My car still jerking after 2k RPM...I checked google through to see whats caused the car to jerking? My guess that jerking could cause
PVC Valve?
Valve Cover Gasket? (a little smoke come out where the valve gasket that supposed to sealed) Is that normal? I do not know if it caused to jerking
Throttle Position Sensor?
Or maybe it needs tuned up like replaces spark plugs?
Suppose a fuel pump goes bad, does it caused my car to jerking and I couldnt press the pedal to gas it when its stalling or jerking while driving.
Do Nissan Dealership fix the older Maximas? Because none of mechanics that I sent my car to two different garages could figure it out and telling me that the motor is fine which it is not. Does this Maxima of year 1991 have a computer diagonostic?
My car still jerking after 2k RPM...I checked google through to see whats caused the car to jerking? My guess that jerking could cause
PVC Valve?
Valve Cover Gasket? (a little smoke come out where the valve gasket that supposed to sealed) Is that normal? I do not know if it caused to jerking
Throttle Position Sensor?
Or maybe it needs tuned up like replaces spark plugs?
Suppose a fuel pump goes bad, does it caused my car to jerking and I couldnt press the pedal to gas it when its stalling or jerking while driving.
Do Nissan Dealership fix the older Maximas? Because none of mechanics that I sent my car to two different garages could figure it out and telling me that the motor is fine which it is not. Does this Maxima of year 1991 have a computer diagonostic?
most likely a vac (or other) leak of some sort, or a bad maf. The TPS is not a *major* player in the fuel delivery calculations once the car is warmed up, the ECU mainly uses MAF to measure air coming in and calculate how much fuel to spray, and the o2 sensor to make sure it calculated correctly.
#5625
no our cars dont have a stick to hold it open, it has "hood struts" (the 2 hydraulic pumps) to keep it open. u can find them on ebay or courtesytparts.com
#5626
i have 7 pairs of hood struts stashed away so i should be good for the next 20 years
#5627
How To You Change The Transmission Fluid
94 Nissan Maxima
Im new at this. how do you change the transmission fluid . i usually have someone else do it so i have never changed the oil, antifreeze, etc. but if its simple i can do itmyself. i have saw no reference to a drain for the transmission fluid. Anyone know of a guide to change the transmission fluid, oil and antifreeze?
Im new at this. how do you change the transmission fluid . i usually have someone else do it so i have never changed the oil, antifreeze, etc. but if its simple i can do itmyself. i have saw no reference to a drain for the transmission fluid. Anyone know of a guide to change the transmission fluid, oil and antifreeze?
#5628
94 Nissan Maxima
Im new at this. how do you change the transmission fluid . i usually have someone else do it so i have never changed the oil, antifreeze, etc. but if its simple i can do itmyself. i have saw no reference to a drain for the transmission fluid. Anyone know of a guide to change the transmission fluid, oil and antifreeze?
Im new at this. how do you change the transmission fluid . i usually have someone else do it so i have never changed the oil, antifreeze, etc. but if its simple i can do itmyself. i have saw no reference to a drain for the transmission fluid. Anyone know of a guide to change the transmission fluid, oil and antifreeze?
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/
at.pdf for auto trans
mt.pdf for manual trans
Lc.pdf for cooling system, and lubrication systems.
if you get really confused (but you shouldn't, they are relatively easy tasks), I know there are some members here that are more local to you, and may be willing to help.
edit: stupid typos.
#5629
i may not be asking the question right. if im supposed to change the transmission fluid how do i do it? i know theres a drain plug to change the oil and a drain plug to flush out the radiator. but what about for the transmission fluid?
i have checked the at section of the fsm
i have checked the at section of the fsm
#5630
i may not be asking the question right. if im supposed to change the transmission fluid how do i do it? i know theres a drain plug to change the oil and a drain plug to flush out the radiator. but what about for the transmission fluid?
i have checked the at section of the fsm
i have checked the at section of the fsm
#5632
turbo set up
89 maxima.. vg30e.. just got the turbo installed.. t3/t4 and it runs, but really funny and im kinda scared to drive around.. its like the turbo spools but doesnt go back down very fast.. i have no electronics so i dont know wat the boost running at.. how could i set it to run 8 psi??
#5633
89 maxima.. vg30e.. just got the turbo installed.. t3/t4 and it runs, but really funny and im kinda scared to drive around.. its like the turbo spools but doesnt go back down very fast.. i have no electronics so i dont know wat the boost running at.. how could i set it to run 8 psi??
#5636
I have a '93 Maxima GXE with VGE DOHC 3.0 L; it has about 180k miles on it with the original engine and tranny. I got it in '04 with 79k. I've done all the maintenance on it myself because I have a hard time paying a shop for something I can do myself.
Recently, my check engine light came on (something that has never happened before); This happened right as I was driving out of the garage after replacing both front struts, but I have a hard time believing there is any connection. I've also noticed that my radiator fans are blowing all the time (Coolant Temp is showing normal when running or cold when first started), the AC doesn't seem to be working, the mpg has decreased significantly, and engine has no power.
Now I started looking online for information related to reading the diagnostic code that triggered the check engine light which is when I found this forum. I also picked up a FSM for a '94 Maxima which gives detailed instructions on entering the self-diagnostic mode. I tried the procedure outlined in the FSM with no result. I'd turn the ignition to ON, turn the screw completely clockwise, wait for the LED's to flash the number sequence for each diagnostic mode, but if never would. I have the dual LED (one red, one green) ECM, but the red LED remains lit all the time and I've never seen the green LED change states. I've tried some variations from the suggested procedure and nothing happens.
Since, I was unable to retrieve the diagnostic code, I went ahead and did some physical checks. This is where I found that if the car is sitting in Park and I step on the throttle, the engine will falter and die at about 1700 RPM; if I instead gradually increase the throttle, I can rev the engine through it's entire working range. This seemed like it might be a fuel, or air problem so I checked both. I put a fuel pressure gauge inline after the fuel filter and it showed 36 psi at idle, and 41 psi with any throttle which matches the specifications; I then proceeded to disconnect one fuel injector at a time while the engine was running with the result that the engine idle became rough for each disconnect; I couldn't reach one of the injectors without taking off the intake manifold, but since the other 5 injectors appeared to be working, I didn't worry about it (I don't think one injector would produce the power loss and falter that I see). I also took the MAF sensor off; it looked okay, but I went ahead and cleaned it with the aerosol spray anyway; the air filter is fairly new and unobstructed. I didn't check the sparkplugs, but I've replaced them and wires in the last 3k and I would have seen or heard something when I disconnected each injector if something on them was bad.
I'm frustrated with the fact that I can read the diagnostic codes to say the least. I'm was thinking that maybe it's the throttle position sensor but a quick multimeter check seemed to indicate that its basic function worked. Has anyone had trouble getting their ECM into the self-diagnostic mode? Have you seen this behavior before? I'd appreciate any suggestions as I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
Ben
Recently, my check engine light came on (something that has never happened before); This happened right as I was driving out of the garage after replacing both front struts, but I have a hard time believing there is any connection. I've also noticed that my radiator fans are blowing all the time (Coolant Temp is showing normal when running or cold when first started), the AC doesn't seem to be working, the mpg has decreased significantly, and engine has no power.
Now I started looking online for information related to reading the diagnostic code that triggered the check engine light which is when I found this forum. I also picked up a FSM for a '94 Maxima which gives detailed instructions on entering the self-diagnostic mode. I tried the procedure outlined in the FSM with no result. I'd turn the ignition to ON, turn the screw completely clockwise, wait for the LED's to flash the number sequence for each diagnostic mode, but if never would. I have the dual LED (one red, one green) ECM, but the red LED remains lit all the time and I've never seen the green LED change states. I've tried some variations from the suggested procedure and nothing happens.
Since, I was unable to retrieve the diagnostic code, I went ahead and did some physical checks. This is where I found that if the car is sitting in Park and I step on the throttle, the engine will falter and die at about 1700 RPM; if I instead gradually increase the throttle, I can rev the engine through it's entire working range. This seemed like it might be a fuel, or air problem so I checked both. I put a fuel pressure gauge inline after the fuel filter and it showed 36 psi at idle, and 41 psi with any throttle which matches the specifications; I then proceeded to disconnect one fuel injector at a time while the engine was running with the result that the engine idle became rough for each disconnect; I couldn't reach one of the injectors without taking off the intake manifold, but since the other 5 injectors appeared to be working, I didn't worry about it (I don't think one injector would produce the power loss and falter that I see). I also took the MAF sensor off; it looked okay, but I went ahead and cleaned it with the aerosol spray anyway; the air filter is fairly new and unobstructed. I didn't check the sparkplugs, but I've replaced them and wires in the last 3k and I would have seen or heard something when I disconnected each injector if something on them was bad.
I'm frustrated with the fact that I can read the diagnostic codes to say the least. I'm was thinking that maybe it's the throttle position sensor but a quick multimeter check seemed to indicate that its basic function worked. Has anyone had trouble getting their ECM into the self-diagnostic mode? Have you seen this behavior before? I'd appreciate any suggestions as I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
Ben
#5637
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Ben, replace your coolant temperature sensor...also, be sure to look for corrosion(green looking crap) on the CTS wire harness plug before installing the new sensor...
Ben, replace your coolant temperature sensor...also, be sure to look for corrosion(green looking crap) on the CTS wire harness plug before installing the new sensor...
#5638
car starting problem
ok this is weird.. 89 max se.. whenever i go to my girlfriends house, i park my car in this spot kinda on a hill and the car facing up the hill.. The car always starts fine, but when i park on that hill, it doesnt start, i have to roll bak in nuetral off of the hill and then it starts.. ????? i have no clue what that is doing that for.. i have a brand new starter not even month old.. What could that be??
#5639
I have a '93 Maxima GXE with VGE DOHC 3.0 L; it has about 180k miles on it with the original engine and tranny. I got it in '04 with 79k. I've done all the maintenance on it myself because I have a hard time paying a shop for something I can do myself.
Recently, my check engine light came on (something that has never happened before); This happened right as I was driving out of the garage after replacing both front struts, but I have a hard time believing there is any connection. I've also noticed that my radiator fans are blowing all the time (Coolant Temp is showing normal when running or cold when first started), the AC doesn't seem to be working, the mpg has decreased significantly, and engine has no power.
Now I started looking online for information related to reading the diagnostic code that triggered the check engine light which is when I found this forum. I also picked up a FSM for a '94 Maxima which gives detailed instructions on entering the self-diagnostic mode. I tried the procedure outlined in the FSM with no result. I'd turn the ignition to ON, turn the screw completely clockwise, wait for the LED's to flash the number sequence for each diagnostic mode, but if never would. I have the dual LED (one red, one green) ECM, but the red LED remains lit all the time and I've never seen the green LED change states. I've tried some variations from the suggested procedure and nothing happens.
Since, I was unable to retrieve the diagnostic code, I went ahead and did some physical checks. This is where I found that if the car is sitting in Park and I step on the throttle, the engine will falter and die at about 1700 RPM; if I instead gradually increase the throttle, I can rev the engine through it's entire working range. This seemed like it might be a fuel, or air problem so I checked both. I put a fuel pressure gauge inline after the fuel filter and it showed 36 psi at idle, and 41 psi with any throttle which matches the specifications; I then proceeded to disconnect one fuel injector at a time while the engine was running with the result that the engine idle became rough for each disconnect; I couldn't reach one of the injectors without taking off the intake manifold, but since the other 5 injectors appeared to be working, I didn't worry about it (I don't think one injector would produce the power loss and falter that I see). I also took the MAF sensor off; it looked okay, but I went ahead and cleaned it with the aerosol spray anyway; the air filter is fairly new and unobstructed. I didn't check the sparkplugs, but I've replaced them and wires in the last 3k and I would have seen or heard something when I disconnected each injector if something on them was bad.
I'm frustrated with the fact that I can read the diagnostic codes to say the least. I'm was thinking that maybe it's the throttle position sensor but a quick multimeter check seemed to indicate that its basic function worked. Has anyone had trouble getting their ECM into the self-diagnostic mode? Have you seen this behavior before? I'd appreciate any suggestions as I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
Ben
Recently, my check engine light came on (something that has never happened before); This happened right as I was driving out of the garage after replacing both front struts, but I have a hard time believing there is any connection. I've also noticed that my radiator fans are blowing all the time (Coolant Temp is showing normal when running or cold when first started), the AC doesn't seem to be working, the mpg has decreased significantly, and engine has no power.
Now I started looking online for information related to reading the diagnostic code that triggered the check engine light which is when I found this forum. I also picked up a FSM for a '94 Maxima which gives detailed instructions on entering the self-diagnostic mode. I tried the procedure outlined in the FSM with no result. I'd turn the ignition to ON, turn the screw completely clockwise, wait for the LED's to flash the number sequence for each diagnostic mode, but if never would. I have the dual LED (one red, one green) ECM, but the red LED remains lit all the time and I've never seen the green LED change states. I've tried some variations from the suggested procedure and nothing happens.
Since, I was unable to retrieve the diagnostic code, I went ahead and did some physical checks. This is where I found that if the car is sitting in Park and I step on the throttle, the engine will falter and die at about 1700 RPM; if I instead gradually increase the throttle, I can rev the engine through it's entire working range. This seemed like it might be a fuel, or air problem so I checked both. I put a fuel pressure gauge inline after the fuel filter and it showed 36 psi at idle, and 41 psi with any throttle which matches the specifications; I then proceeded to disconnect one fuel injector at a time while the engine was running with the result that the engine idle became rough for each disconnect; I couldn't reach one of the injectors without taking off the intake manifold, but since the other 5 injectors appeared to be working, I didn't worry about it (I don't think one injector would produce the power loss and falter that I see). I also took the MAF sensor off; it looked okay, but I went ahead and cleaned it with the aerosol spray anyway; the air filter is fairly new and unobstructed. I didn't check the sparkplugs, but I've replaced them and wires in the last 3k and I would have seen or heard something when I disconnected each injector if something on them was bad.
I'm frustrated with the fact that I can read the diagnostic codes to say the least. I'm was thinking that maybe it's the throttle position sensor but a quick multimeter check seemed to indicate that its basic function worked. Has anyone had trouble getting their ECM into the self-diagnostic mode? Have you seen this behavior before? I'd appreciate any suggestions as I'm at a loss.
Thanks,
Ben
and as wayne said, check the CTS.
-Ben
#5640
ok this is weird.. 89 max se.. whenever i go to my girlfriends house, i park my car in this spot kinda on a hill and the car facing up the hill.. The car always starts fine, but when i park on that hill, it doesnt start, i have to roll bak in nuetral off of the hill and then it starts.. ????? i have no clue what that is doing that for.. i have a brand new starter not even month old.. What could that be??