*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#6121
No I'm not using zero as an example. The oxygen sensor sends a signal of zero one zero one zero one and etc to the ecu. It is what tells your ecu if the car is running rich or lean. go to www.howitworks.com and look up oxygen sensor it should show how the oxygen sensor works on the digital signal it sends to the ecu.
The sensor side reads voltage. No real reason to check ohm reading anyway.
#6122
Oh dang my bad your right it's not ohms but volts my bad but it does show zero one zero one in volts. The signal sent is a digital signal of zero one zero one.
#6123
#6124
im changing my injectors and do not know which gasket/'s im gonna need.
names and pics would help a lot. thanks
would i need all of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...#ht_2320wt_941
names and pics would help a lot. thanks
would i need all of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...#ht_2320wt_941
#6125
im changing my injectors and do not know which gasket/'s im gonna need.
names and pics would help a lot. thanks
would i need all of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...#ht_2320wt_941
names and pics would help a lot. thanks
would i need all of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fel-P...#ht_2320wt_941
If you get the injectors from a parts store, they might come with the o-rings and insulator (refer color to picture). If you get the injectors from the dealer, they won't be included. But both places won't include the insulators that seat the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold, and I recommend getting them from the dealer.
While you're at it, I would also recommend getting gaskets for the throttle body and EGR if the intake is dirty. This was my intake back November when I had to change an injector.
Had to separate the throttle and EGR from the intake to thoroughly clean the intake as the inside was dirty.
Last edited by jbbons25; 01-22-2011 at 02:52 AM.
#6126
The top and middle gaskets, yes. Not the bottom gaskets.
If you get the injectors from a parts store, they might come with the o-rings and insulator (refer color to picture). If you get the injectors from the dealer, they won't be included. But both places won't include the insulators that seat the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold, and I recommend getting them from the dealer.
While you're at it, I would also recommend getting gaskets for the throttle body and EGR if the intake is dirty. This was my intake back November when I had to change an injector.
Had to separate the throttle and EGR from the intake to thoroughly clean the intake as the inside was dirty.
If you get the injectors from a parts store, they might come with the o-rings and insulator (refer color to picture). If you get the injectors from the dealer, they won't be included. But both places won't include the insulators that seat the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold, and I recommend getting them from the dealer.
While you're at it, I would also recommend getting gaskets for the throttle body and EGR if the intake is dirty. This was my intake back November when I had to change an injector.
Had to separate the throttle and EGR from the intake to thoroughly clean the intake as the inside was dirty.
the bad injectors are the 1st and 3rd in the front.
#6127
You can take out the injectors while the fuel rail is still bolted onto the manifold, but with the age of our cars I would also consider changing those bottom bushings. Better safe than sorry.
#6128
Also, the injectors can be tricky to get out with the fuel rail in place. I purchased injector washer sets from NAPA when I replaced all 6 injectors of mine recently. They were about $5 each and although my new injectors came with one or two of the rubber washers the washer set came with the bottom and top bushings. While the OP has the manifold off, he may want to consider replacing fuel injector hoses on the fuel rail and to the gas filter. These hoses can leak around this age. The only other suggestions would be to replace rocker cover gaskets if leaking and any vacuum hoses that are cracked.
#6130
If I remember, 5/32" will take care of the EGR, power valve and water **** valve. Can't remember the correct size for the canister and the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the water **** valve.
#6131
(1993 VG30 MAX) Is it true that the engine should die when the MAF is unplugged? I thought it should continue to run, but not rev over 2k RPM. "That is what my car did. I swapped with an unknown condition MAF and the no-power issue did not change at all." I assumed the MAF was good since the symptoms did not change at all with either MAF.
#6132
(1993 VG30 MAX) Is it true that the engine should die when the MAF is unplugged? I thought it should continue to run, but not rev over 2k RPM. "That is what my car did. I swapped with an unknown condition MAF and the no-power issue did not change at all." I assumed the MAF was good since the symptoms did not change at all with either MAF.
#6133
#6136
#6137
#6140
#6141
closest thing you can do is give them a light tint, but you can also fab R33 Skyline taillights in because they have a similar shape (Jonmandude IIRC is the guy with a white 3rd gen with R33 tails). a guy on here was also making LED 3rd gen taillights out of factory housings, but i asked about a set and never heard anything so i dunno
if you cant work well with metal and weld, youre gonna pay out of the **** to get some custom tails in
#6142
I need help
If anybody can tell me where the knock sensor is located on the VE engine because I seen it change on a 96 max with a VE engine and it was located inside the intake manifold. I'm look to change this part soon so a picture would be great for this. Thanks again
#6143
I have a great car...94gxe maxima. 110k miles on the speedometer and only two small door dings on the sides. Otherwise perfect. As far as repairs...replaced one air flow meter in the air intake via dealer.....
Current problem...possible water leak... been driving the car daily...long trips etc...then the other day after shutting down...heard gurgling or bubbling noise...finally found out there was NO WATER in the radiator...almost bone dry. So going to replace all the hoses...have done that already one time several years ago.
Dealer was unable to get all nine major pieces (one being either the upper or lower radiator hose) .....
Question: where does one get oem molded radiator hoses for these old cars? or any other parts ...what are some good vendors to order from???
ps. Personally think the third gen. max is the best...
Current problem...possible water leak... been driving the car daily...long trips etc...then the other day after shutting down...heard gurgling or bubbling noise...finally found out there was NO WATER in the radiator...almost bone dry. So going to replace all the hoses...have done that already one time several years ago.
Dealer was unable to get all nine major pieces (one being either the upper or lower radiator hose) .....
Question: where does one get oem molded radiator hoses for these old cars? or any other parts ...what are some good vendors to order from???
ps. Personally think the third gen. max is the best...
#6144
For the VE, it's in the same spot as the VQ, under the manifold.
#6145
i still dont know what size to buy.
im doing my injectors and want to replace old vacuums lines
#6146
I have a great car...94gxe maxima. 110k miles on the speedometer and only two small door dings on the sides. Otherwise perfect. As far as repairs...replaced one air flow meter in the air intake via dealer.....
Current problem...possible water leak... been driving the car daily...long trips etc...then the other day after shutting down...heard gurgling or bubbling noise...finally found out there was NO WATER in the radiator...almost bone dry. So going to replace all the hoses...have done that already one time several years ago.
Dealer was unable to get all nine major pieces (one being either the upper or lower radiator hose) .....
Question: where does one get oem molded radiator hoses for these old cars? or any other parts ...what are some good vendors to order from???
ps. Personally think the third gen. max is the best...
Current problem...possible water leak... been driving the car daily...long trips etc...then the other day after shutting down...heard gurgling or bubbling noise...finally found out there was NO WATER in the radiator...almost bone dry. So going to replace all the hoses...have done that already one time several years ago.
Dealer was unable to get all nine major pieces (one being either the upper or lower radiator hose) .....
Question: where does one get oem molded radiator hoses for these old cars? or any other parts ...what are some good vendors to order from???
ps. Personally think the third gen. max is the best...
#6149
if you have taken a engine out before and know a fair bit, it shouldnt be too hard with a bit of help. if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much about motors, i wouldnt even try unless you can get someone on here who knows alot to guide you.
so if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much on engines, i would give it 9-9.5/10 to do. if you know how to remove a engine and know the basics of a engine, 4/10
#6150
depends, do you want to do the water pump, crank angle sensor, thermostat, etc. while the engine is out?
if you have taken a engine out before and know a fair bit, it shouldnt be too hard with a bit of help. if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much about motors, i wouldnt even try unless you can get someone on here who knows alot to guide you.
so if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much on engines, i would give it 9-9.5/10 to do. if you know how to remove a engine and know the basics of a engine, 4/10
if you have taken a engine out before and know a fair bit, it shouldnt be too hard with a bit of help. if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much about motors, i wouldnt even try unless you can get someone on here who knows alot to guide you.
so if you have never taken a engine out and dont know much on engines, i would give it 9-9.5/10 to do. if you know how to remove a engine and know the basics of a engine, 4/10
#6151
My turn flashers recently stopped working in my 1992 Maxima SE. And i mean completely stopped working, no tick noise from the flasher unit or anything.
--- Which brings my to my question---
I have spent the past two days looking for the flasher relay unit and can't find it for the life of me. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, and the picture they show in the manual as being the flasher relay is no where to be found under my dash. I've looked all over various Nissan forums and website and have found quite a few different answers as to "WHAT" the flasher unit is and "WHERE" it's located!
--- Which brings my to my question---
I have spent the past two days looking for the flasher relay unit and can't find it for the life of me. I purchased a Haynes repair manual, and the picture they show in the manual as being the flasher relay is no where to be found under my dash. I've looked all over various Nissan forums and website and have found quite a few different answers as to "WHAT" the flasher unit is and "WHERE" it's located!
#6152
1990 Maxima
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
#6153
Originally Posted by godisgood
1990 Maxima
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
My temperature gauge is slow to give me a reading. It shows the temperature without fluctuating or anything, but it takes a minute to show anything at all. Not saying that it stays low before it gets to avg operating temp. The needle is laying down flat, not even in the range of the gauge until the engine runs for a minute or two. Then it raises right up and works fine... Any ideas?
Also my heater isn't working. Still troubleshooting that, going to check the wiring and electrical side of the heater system tomorrow. Thinking it could be related?
thanks.
is your heater not blowing air at all or just not not blowing hot air?
#6154
I was able to do the timing belt with the engine in the car just fine. I would think this would apply for the VE and its timing chain as well.
#6156
2 Q's
1. what can i use to glue back on the metal strip that goes on the intake manifold (the one thats says 3000) ?
2.what would a straight pipe do in general , instead of buying a catalytic converter? (go faster, louder muffler, guzzle gas)
1. what can i use to glue back on the metal strip that goes on the intake manifold (the one thats says 3000) ?
2.what would a straight pipe do in general , instead of buying a catalytic converter? (go faster, louder muffler, guzzle gas)
#6158
#6159
just want to see if this true or not cause i really dont know
#6160
Hi Guys... the freeways are in need of repair in some places...when i hit a rough spot the front end really hits hard!!!...I have 110k miles on the clock...and thinkin i need new struts???...For freeway driving to soften those pot holes ...what brand of struts do you recommend??? Monroe...is there a more favorite on this site? Thanks in advance...