BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

Second pic definitely shows front main seal leak. Would advise prompt repair, as oil (well, pretty much anything) is prone to make the timing belt weaker.
not an easy job, but it's definitely do-able, with enough patience.

as to the headlight, you don't need a new lens, but you do need a new headlamp assembly. You should be able to pull one from a junkyard for about 15-25 bucks.

idk about the alarm, never had to **** with mine.

yorinaga

Well on Saturday I cleaned my MAF and old CTS with the CRC Maf cleaner and popped in some SeaFoam into the gas. Car is a bit spunkier and gets out of the shudders a bit earlier in the RPMs (around 3000). Didn't have a big enough socket or wrench to replace the CTS, will have to do it at the parts store this weekend . RPM dropping issue still exists though it seems to take longer after the CTS cleaning (there was a fair amount of corrosion on the connecters, cleaned as best i could with a wire brush and the MAF cleaner). Turning the A/C on really drops the RPM and the car actually dies if car is warm and already idling in the 500 range and I'm not ready to step on the gas a bit to counter the drop.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I would suggest checking/cleaning your idle air control valve.

swr

92 max gxe auto

HI everyone again

been having some issues with my speedometer works fine 90% of the time then it will go to zero and jump back up to normal I know it must be a short somewhere I was trying to rremove the speed sensor to clean it and check the wires going into it I removed the 1 10mm bolt holding it in . and tried to remove it without using to much pressure not wanting to damage it . What is the trick to removing these ? any help is greatly appriciated

Thanks again

Scott

yorinaga

Thanks Ben, will check that out! Also had a coworker advise me to replace the thermostat as it seems to be heat related.

r_burton_22

I recently replaced the fuel injectors in my maxima, put everything back together, and now there is a leak between the upper and lower intake manifold. When I start the car I can hear a hissing sound, and it idles very poorly and won't stay running without me riding the throttle a bit. If I spray starter fluid around the area where the upper and lower parts of the manifold jois, the engine revs right up. I have checked all the vacuum lines and replaced 80-90% of them. I have pulled it apart a few times to try and get it sealed. I have tried just the gasket, the gasket with a couple dabs of grease to hold it in place, gasket with permatex high-tack, and gasket with permatex aviation gasket sealant. I always check the condition of the gasket prior to install, and I have used a few of them throughout this process. Nothing has worked so far. The manifold is not warped at all, just to be safe I took it to the machine shop and they confirmed that it is in good shape. Also, I have thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces every time and there are no scratches or gouges. I torque the bolts to spec and in the correct sequence. Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be going on? I feel like I have to be doing something wrong, I just can't for the life of me figure out what. Any help would be much appreciated, I am getting very tired of walking with a load of groceries

gitanesteel

Last week I pulled both fuses for the factory anti-theft system. The system, however, is still active. Obviously pulling the fuses doesn't disable it. What should be my next step? I've never had a car with a security system and don't need to start now.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

remove the security box underneath the driver's dash.

boondockin

Just replaced the engine in my 90 max, ran great until this weekend, anytime under about 3000-3500 if you give it more than half throttle it has a horrible miss then when it hits the right rpm takes off, engine is all stock, any ideas?
thanks!

max_t3rror

Quick question I own a 1994 SE and My steering wheel is torn up from previous use. I noticed that I share the same steering wheel as a 1995 maxima would this swap right in or should I do some test fitting at the local junk yard?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

should bolt right up. In fact, just about any nissan wheel from the era should (think s14 or z32 )

maximajquery

Hi:

I was just at the yard and took off some struts but need help with their identification.


They said assembled in Mexico and were blue colored, but had no further marking other than 887 x13983. They looked after market and were in good shape and I I hid them until I can figure out if they are worth $30 a piece. It looked like on autopartswarehouse the only blue struts are monroe's, but I figured monroe's would be marked somewhere.

I have more photos but didn't want to put up more images unless necessary.

Thanks

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

we use something that looks like those from Napa at work, theyre QuickStruts which are a strut/spring already put together, just bolt er in. looks fairly similar to that

are the springs original or no?

Dhunterx

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys. Maxima's transmission was acting a bit wonky today. Car starts off in 2nd gear and stays in 2nd gear. I can force it down to 1st by putting it on 1, but it won't go past 2nd. It was working flawlessly yesterday, no indication of the transmission slipping or anything (was recently rebuilt). Could it be something electronic? A sensor? Or something in the shifter assembly itself that's not telling the transmission to upshift/downshift?

gitanesteel

Finding a hesitation on acceleration from a stop sign up to about 30 mph. If you hit the gas hard it seems to go away. At first I thought maybe a vapor lock because it had been really hot but it's still doing it a couple of days later. Above 35 it seems to be fine.

Fuel pump? Fuel filter?

Edit: Ok - I noticed this thread after posting. Please bear with my ignorance - I know what the MAF is but what's the knock sensor?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i know i worked on something similar a while ago, and im pretty sure it was doing the same thing and it was the speed sensor. only staying in 2nd could mean its in limp mode too (if 3rd gens have a limp mode i cant remember)

Dhunterx

iTrader: (6)

Thought speed sensor was just for the speedometer to work. Going to try the diagnostic tomorrow and see what I get. I hope it's not a shift solenoid.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

we had something similar at work a couple weeks ago, a Intrepid wouldnt go into first at all. new speed sensor fixed it

maximajquery

Hi:

I got some BMW lights off a junkyard maxima and put them in mine. One thing I would like to do now is attach the grill to the hood. The junked maxima had the grill drilled horizontally into the BMW brackets, but I don't want that.

Anyway, I thought the best way maybe to drill two holes where the hood seems hollow (just through the first layer) and then use two washer/bolts to hold it in place. I am looking for better ideas on how to do this, as I hesitated because the hood only seems hollowed out in certain areas, when I was feeling around through the two large holes near the front, and not sure it is a good idea to be drilling around there without having a good plan, and not sure the two bolts with hold it steady enough to be slamming down the lid.

Thanks for any tips.

jessica sheppard

I love my 89 Maxima but now the dashboard lights are not working when it is cold. Whats up with that?

eclipse920

I posted here a while ago with transmission problems. Well, I WAS going to get a used tranny, but my husband talked into a rebuild. very expensive, but I hope it was worth it.

Anyway, he changed out one of the fuel injectors on it because one of the cylinders was out. It turned out to be the problem, but every since the car will die at stop lights (when you idle) and such. I think he unplugged a sensor that needs to be adjusted. I know where it is,but not what it's called. Anyone have any ideas? He is a.....budding mechanic lol. I'm used to him fixing things, while causing others to go out. But without errors, he can't learn, right? I'll just put up with it for now (he isn't doing engine work though!) It will hopefully pay off in the long run. He knows more about 70 model, domestic cars (fords mostly) and this car that he is helping me with is the first import.

Thanks for your time.

Grimmrezx

i have a leak coming from the stock radiatot=r and i wanted to go with a performance all aluminum radiator any suggestions or thoughs PM ME PLZZZ

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

Mishimoto doesnt have one for 3rd gens, but theres a universal one that apparently could be made to fit

Grimmrezx

unfortunetly mishimoto doesnt make one before 94 so i guess ill go with the universal thanks

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah they only make them for 4th gens and up, i remember i was going to go with a all-metal one and someone pointed out that one of the universal ones would probably work

Grimmrezx

i fell like its coming from my why Y Pipe any suggestions for the repair or replacement

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

check for gasket leaks or other leaks, if you want a new one just get a performance Ypipe like a WarpSpeed

maxima92owner

Hey folks!.. I´m the proud owner of a 92 Maxima since almost 6 years now... but today I just ask my self why my car does not show a regular 17 digits VIN number?... Mine just show on the firewall HJ30-XXXXXX as chasis number, the plate attached to the firewall shows the same number as a chasis number and a difeferent one for the model that is HLJ30 + 8 caracters...

Does anybody have seen something like that?...

I know that my car is a japan made one and the code of the plant also.

nshone56

Hi there everyone, hope this is OK for me to do... I've got an ACT (Advanced Clutch Technologies) NM1-HDSS Performance Clutch kit and AASCO Motorsports 101706-11 machined billet aluminum high performance flywheel I purchased from Stillen for my 1991 Gen 3. Problem is, I purchased them RIGHT before my brother wrecked my baby, now I really don't have anything to do with the parts. I'd love to sell them, make me ANY offer, I need to get back at least a little of what I've got into these. The clutch kit has the following:
N-015 Heavy Duty Press Plate
NSD007S Performance Street Disc
RB809 Release Bearing
PB1012 Pilot Bearing
AT01 Alignment Tool

Parts are all still sealed in plastic, exactly how I received them from Stillen. I also have pics available. I'm in Coppell, TX and can ship these to you USPS ground no charge, if you want them shipped faster I could probably overnight them for an additional charge. Help me out, these parts will make someone's Gen 3 VERY very happy! Hit me up at nateshone@gmail.com for more info/pics/etc.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

J30 is the chassis code, and the rest of that is the chassis options/identification info. look on page GI-15 here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/gi.pdf

granted that PDF is for US/Canada models, so japan/latin america/europe/africa will all have their own slightly different options/trims.

hfb1995

Hi. Please correct me if I'm in the wrong place for this post.

My car is running rough i have code 51 (Injector Circuit) and 34 (knock sensor)

car was good before the above happened right after taking the intake plenum off and replacing the valve cover gaskets, rotor on the distributor, plenum gasket, all vacuum hoses and cleaning most of the intake parts with Seafoam.

it is NOT the spark plugs, all 6 are alive and kicking (firing good sparks)
all 6 injectors have 11.2ohms at each injector and after the plugs on the wire harness
added power pulses to each injector while the car was off and each one clicks

i did the power test and unplugged each cable and noticed my number 2 is not changing the way it idles.

the injector was running perfect just before my maintenance.
I have no Noid light but it's on the way.

Rambosliice

heyy everybody hows it goin..just have a general question here...i have a 93 maxima se 5 spd with 155xxx and the motor has a slight knock when in neutral or just idling in general now the knock isnt anything serious sounds like the cams have to be adjusted but im not so sure so i was wondering if anybody could give me any possibilities of whats wrong or what i could doo thanks

gitanesteel

Mine was in the shop with the code 51 last week. Rough running/hesitation happened about a month after buying the car - doesn't that figure. All injectors were running about the same ohms as yours but it turns out the #1 injector was indeed bad. Might want to double check.

gitanesteel

Update - took the car to the shop. Just too much going on with kids sports and school starting. Told them the leak was most likely the front main seal. They inspected and confirmed but also thought there was a leak from the cam seal as well. So, I bit the bullet and we did a whole bunch of work (yes, lots o' $) and replaced both seals, valve cover seal, water pump, timing belt, fuel filter and the #1 injector because they found that it was bad (code 51 - check engine light went on the day before taking it to the job and it had developed a pretty bad hesitation).

The car also has 4 new struts - three were completely out of fluid. So, while I got a great deal on the car the prior owner(s) obviously didn't do much in the form of maintenance.

Brought the car home Saturday - still a small hesitation, not sure if it's tranny, fuel pump or something else.

The bigger issue is the oil leak - they didn't fix it. In fact, it was even worse with oil blow back all over the bottom of the car. I'm thinking one of the seals they used didn't seat properly. I dropped it off at the shop yesterday, called them this morning with a "um, let's get this right, please." I was nice about it.

Only other issue right now after I get it back is to check the fuse on the stereo - no power to the rear speakers or antenna. The other fuses are ok but there's apparently one in the back of the radio as well.

Oh, and I did find a Nissan shop manual off ebay for $27 shipped - pretty stoked about that because everything else I saw was up over $60.

hfb1995

Well i took out my whole injector rail left the fuel lines on and put it a little higher on to boards left and right. turned the ignition and added power to each injector each injector gave me a good cone like spray.

I also did a compression test but i have good compression 165 steady for 10 min

an "ase mechanic" told me on yahoo answers that my distributor cap is shorting in between the towers is that possible?

i also replaced the lower and upper and middle intake manifold gasket.

I'm running out of ideas on this could i have a bad valve? is there a way to test if my valves are functioning right?

hfb1995

I FOUND OUT MY PROBLEM woop wooop

Well here is a pic from my OBD
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...35423703_n.jpg

I need to replace one capacitor for my cylinder 2 injector

do you guys have any idea where i can get one?

It's an 334k100 Capacitor its a green one, you can see a bank of 6 of them in the pic upper right corner of the OBD unit i just need 1

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

Everything I have read states to replace all the caps when you find a bad one (then again, I deal with computers where they ALWAYS go bad, not an ecu that doesn't get many reports of bad caps)
anyway, I found them on mouser (http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compon...34K100&FS=True), not sure if they will sell individual parts to normal people, but they have pricing for a single cap listed. the caps installed *should* list key data (voltage, farad and tolerance, I think). match the best you can. I've been told that a higher voltage won't hurt, but I am no electrical engineer...

maxinet

1994 maxima .. how many ball joints are there in total.. and upper/lower..please let me know cause i gotta get mine done

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

easiest thing if theyre still available is on Ebay you can get a suspension kit with control arms, ball joints, tie rods, bushings allover etc for around $125. i got mine a year ago so i would imagine theyre still available, no-name but they did the job and handled my 3rd gen being so low

hfb1995

i have just bought a whole new ECU for my maxima and will replace the caps for mine i can't use this one because it has bad connectors and other bad parts but the caps are good on it

Thanks for your help guys