3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994) Learn more about the 3rd Generation Maxima here.

*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

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Old Nov 29, 2009 | 06:09 PM
  #4561  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
well there was a 100k belt for the VG engine... but only the 94 GXE and SOME (less than half of) 93 GXE's got it. so if you have one of those it could possibly be the original belt. And keep in mind that even a 60k belt can last much longer than 60k miles (i mean it's not like there's a timer that just blows the belt off as soon as your odometer rolls 60k ) especially if your car has alot of highway miles (cruising in OD = less revs per mile) vs alot of city driving (lower gears and idling = more revs per mile). the 60k estimate is supposed to hold true even if you use the car for mail delivery or something (lots of idling and 1st/2nd gear). However since you don't know the history of the car it's best to assume the worst and replace it now unless you want to get to 120k miles only to find this:

http://forums.maxima.org/7192479-post3.html <--(click)

Ahh yea i pretty much figured so just wanted that extra boost from senior members. Damn there goes 450 bucks. Thanks also did these cars have issues with cruise control and side mirror defroster switches not working ?
Old Nov 29, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #4562  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
Ahh yea i pretty much figured so just wanted that extra boost from senior members. Damn there goes 450 bucks. Thanks also did these cars have issues with cruise control and side mirror defroster switches not working ?
Old Nov 29, 2009 | 10:03 PM
  #4563  
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hey my timming belt has cracks in it, but it is still on. because it is old and cracked could this be stopping my car from starting?????????
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 06:01 AM
  #4564  
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wait if you can see cracks on it why didnt you just replace it if you took everything off to llok at it ? Or is there a viewing window or something ?
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 06:22 AM
  #4565  
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Originally Posted by Dinglekidd
hey my timming belt has cracks in it, but it is still on. because it is old and cracked could this be stopping my car from starting?????????
probably not (unless it's slipped a few teeth), but it will before too long
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:18 AM
  #4566  
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is there a way to see it with out all the tear down ? Also one more quick question. When ordering a belt is it round or square teeth and can you only get the 100k belt from the dealer ? Also is there a manifodl spacer for the vg motor capedcadaver ?

Last edited by twtraudio; Nov 30, 2009 at 07:24 AM.
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:33 AM
  #4567  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
is there a way to see it with out all the tear down ? Also one more quick question. When ordering a belt is it round or square teeth and can you only get the 100k belt from the dealer ? Also is there a manifodl spacer for the vg motor capedcadaver ?
you mean to find out which belt you need? you have to just look to see. odds are that a 93 has square teeth unless the motor was swapped by a previous owner from a 94 (like my 90 was...)

OEM belt is best b/c it has lines on it. other belts (like mitsuboshi, etc) don't have lines, meaning you might misalign the belt by a tooth, since the dots on the metal plate behind the cam sprockets is just a reference, they are not going to line up once the belt is tensioned. but you can get a 100k belt from other manufacturers... OEM is just recommended since you know for a fact it will last the specified interval. i always use oem tensioners, and you always have to replace the tensioner cuz if it wears out and locks up your belt will burn thru and snap also.
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 04:28 PM
  #4568  
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it had nasty cracks but all the teeth was connected to the belt. i was thinking i either need to replace that or get new fuel injectors
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #4569  
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Originally Posted by Alex.Fawcett
Got it sorted... Looks like some coolant got into the switch (screw) on the side of the ECU, and was shorting it out somehow. Dried it out thoroughly and it works again! Even pulled the code, all is good.

Thanks for the help!
what did you use to dry it? blow dryer?
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #4570  
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Originally Posted by Dinglekidd
it had nasty cracks but all the teeth was connected to the belt. i was thinking i either need to replace that or get new fuel injectors
but an old cracked belt has probably stretched and lost some tension. just cuz all the teeth are intact doesn't mean it's still properly in-time
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:35 PM
  #4571  
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Heater Core

I am about to replace the heater core on my 92, I have FSM and the haynes manuals. Does anybody have a more detailed breakdown of job? I located a couple of promising hits with search but the links were no good (possibly due to post being 6-7 yrs. old!)

I am used to plunging in blind but the more info the better, particularily when I can avoid taking apart things I don't need to...I just LOVE struggling to reassemble things I didn't need to take apart/demolish.
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:36 PM
  #4572  
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
yeah, the rear seat is two pieces.

Bottom removal:
run your hand under neat the front of the bottom cushion. find the loops. using your hand, gently (but firmly) pull up. if it doesn't give, pull harder. still need help grab a pry bar or screw driver.

top cushion:
after removing the bottom cushion, there will be two screws exposed that hold the seat down by the doors.remove them (stick somewhere safe!)
fold down the arm rest, to expose the plastic circle things (just woke up, but whatever). pry those off, exposing two more screws. remove, stick with the other two.
now the most difficult part. lift up on the bottom of the cushion, taking care not to pull it towards you. it should come out, but the half dozen of them I have done (my two maximas, a few more at the junk yard), it takes some muscle, and patience.
Okay, i just got what i need off (bottom cushion). I was able to do it by hand but it sucked (had to Sparta pull and smashed my neck/back on the oh **** bars in the back when they finally gave). i'm still pondering whether to keep the rear seat or not, my subwoofer wiring and a factory wiring harness are exposed, is that a problem? like i said i wont have any rear passengers so thats not a problem. any harm in leaving out the back seat for good?
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 09:01 PM
  #4573  
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Originally Posted by alex.wlkr
I am about to replace the heater core on my 92, I have FSM and the haynes manuals. Does anybody have a more detailed breakdown of job? I located a couple of promising hits with search but the links were no good (possibly due to post being 6-7 yrs. old!)

I am used to plunging in blind but the more info the better, particularily when I can avoid taking apart things I don't need to...I just LOVE struggling to reassemble things I didn't need to take apart/demolish.
you have to pull the entire dash/glovebox, unplugging electrical thingies as you go, drop the steering column, remove the metal dash support bar, and then unbolt the heater box and blower motor from the a/c evap. i always left the evap in place as seen in the pic below (tho i unbolt the bracket holding the a/c line by the passenger side strut tower, for mobility reasons) and pull the blower motor away first so i can kinda shove the a/c box to the right and slide the heater box away from the firewall. once you get that far just slide the old core out, new one in, then begin reassembling in the reverse order.



you don't have to remove the carpet tho.. i did cuz it was wet with antifreeze. and with a little bit of patience it all goes back together like this

Old Nov 30, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #4574  
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what a relief

Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
you have to pull the entire dash/glovebox, unplugging electrical thingies as you go, drop the steering column, remove the metal dash support bar, and then unbolt the heater box and blower motor from the a/c evap. i always left the evap in place as seen in the pic below (tho i unbolt the bracket holding the a/c line by the passenger side strut tower, for mobility reasons) and pull the blower motor away first so i can kinda shove the a/c box to the right and slide the heater box away from the firewall. once you get that far just slide the old core out, new one in, then begin reassembling in the reverse order.



you don't have to remove the carpet tho.. i did cuz it was wet with antifreeze. and with a little bit of patience it all goes back together like this

Sent you a very funny reply with much gratitude, was timed out submitting it. Thanks!
Old Nov 30, 2009 | 10:30 PM
  #4575  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
but an old cracked belt has probably stretched and lost some tension. just cuz all the teeth are intact doesn't mean it's still properly in-time
ok. im going to give getting a new timing belt a try
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 06:45 AM
  #4576  
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Originally Posted by Dinglekidd
ok. im going to give getting a new timing belt a try
don't roll your eyes at me son

point is even if it isn't the problem at hand, your cracked belt could slip or snap at any moment. and i think it's easier to replace a belt than an engine, having done both.
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 06:30 PM
  #4577  
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Ok i have some questions.

1. Where can i get these bulbs: Heated side mirrors indicator, Cigarette lighter, Autotrans controller for comfort or power by the shifter bulbs ?

2. My cruise control does not work ? When i put the button on the "On" position nothing on the instrument cluster lights up and the light on the switch either. but when i toggle the switch i can here the relay under the hood clicking.

I think thats it for now !
Old Dec 1, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #4578  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
Ok i have some questions.

1. Where can i get these bulbs: Heated side mirrors indicator, Cigarette lighter, Autotrans controller for comfort or power by the shifter bulbs ?

2. My cruise control does not work ? When i put the button on the "On" position nothing on the instrument cluster lights up and the light on the switch either. but when i toggle the switch i can here the relay under the hood clicking.

I think thats it for now !
1) forgot the sizes, but i think it was burhan made a thread about it. should be relatively recent in search results.

2) if you hear the relay, you may want to consider a replacement set of buttons from the junk yard, or classifieds. not hard to replace; just pop off the horn cover, unscrew, swap (I think, never needed to replace mine, so i forgot how they come out).
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:54 AM
  #4579  
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
1) forgot the sizes, but i think it was burhan made a thread about it. should be relatively recent in search results.

2) if you hear the relay, you may want to consider a replacement set of buttons from the junk yard, or classifieds. not hard to replace; just pop off the horn cover, unscrew, swap (I think, never needed to replace mine, so i forgot how they come out).

Well i did a search and didnt find the bulb info for those specific bulbs.
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #4580  
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Originally Posted by BenStoked
1) forgot the sizes, but i think it was burhan made a thread about it. should be relatively recent in search results.

2) if you hear the relay, you may want to consider a replacement set of buttons from the junk yard, or classifieds. not hard to replace; just pop off the horn cover, unscrew, swap (I think, never needed to replace mine, so i forgot how they come out).
burhan's thread doesn't work anymore. it's there, but his pic link is kaputt.
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:33 AM
  #4581  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
don't roll your eyes at me son

point is even if it isn't the problem at hand, your cracked belt could slip or snap at any moment. and i think it's easier to replace a belt than an engine, having done both.
oh... well when you put it that way, i guess i better get a new belt. sorry for being a smart as$
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #4582  
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Originally Posted by Dinglekidd
oh... well when you put it that way, i guess i better get a new belt. sorry for being a smart as$
don't worry, you're better than most n00bs around here
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:03 PM
  #4583  
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I eventually found the sizes after doing a basic search and reading through a bunch of threads. They were for the 272-1092 at radio for the swtiches and a 2027 for the cigerette light at auto zone yay ! Now onto the cruise control problem !

EDIT:

What kind of tranny fluid is for this car ? Manual says Nissan Matic 4 or Dexron II-E ? What is it in todays terms ?

Last edited by twtraudio; Dec 2, 2009 at 06:10 PM.
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:19 PM
  #4584  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
I eventually found the sizes after doing a basic search and reading through a bunch of threads. They were for the 272-1092 at radio for the swtiches and a 2027 for the cigerette light at auto zone yay ! Now onto the cruise control problem !

EDIT:

What kind of tranny fluid is for this car ? Manual says Nissan Matic 4 or Dexron II-E ? What is it in todays terms ?
dexron III
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #4585  
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Thats what i thought i did a drain and fill yesterday with Valvoline High Mileage Dex III. I take it the power steering is the same fluid as well ?
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:38 PM
  #4586  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
Thats what i thought i did a drain and fill yesterday with Valvoline High Mileage Dex III. I take it the power steering is the same fluid as well ?
yea
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #4587  
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Hey i also have a crack in both my headlights and was thinking of replacing them with these (dont flame me please) i like the black on black look :

http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/Cus...dlights/18061/

I have found them cheaper the link is for reference. Wondering if anybody has these as well. i have a 5000k xenon kit on the way and think these may suit better. ( im getting rid of my mazda 6 and it had them and i cant live without them xenons)
Old Dec 2, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #4588  
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Originally Posted by twtraudio
Hey i also have a crack in both my headlights and was thinking of replacing them with these (dont flame me please) i like the black on black look :

http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/Cus...dlights/18061/

I have found them cheaper the link is for reference. Wondering if anybody has these as well. i have a 5000k xenon kit on the way and think these may suit better. ( im getting rid of my mazda 6 and it had them and i cant live without them xenons)
yes some people (aka "worthless pieces of sh*t") have them, but they are both illegal and potentially lethal, as they have NO ability whatsoever to aim the light, so it's 100% glare 100% of the time. add HIDs in there, and you're sure to blind someone into a tree or a ditch. If you like living with that on your conscience (or if you're just a sick f*ck who likes watching people die), go for it. Otherwise stay as far away from those POS headlights as possible.

if you want xenons, get projectors and retrofit them into those euro lights (that's the only thing they're good for). in no way, shape, form, or derivation thereof is it "fine" or "ok" to harm other peoples' visibility for your own selfish gain. if you can't or don't want to bother with a retrofit but still "need" xenons, sell the maxima and keep the mazda.




i have a spare set of these things if you want.. i'm never going to use them. the guy that did that retro used the exact same lights you want, just with the J30 projectors installed into them with some manner of HIDs for the lowbeam.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...fit-build.html

Last edited by CapedCadaver; Dec 2, 2009 at 07:21 PM.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #4589  
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Damn you caught i am on sick noobie ! LOL thats why i asked cause it looked like there was no adjustment on them but your answer is quite truthful and i appreciate that. I sent youa pm regarding the headlights you have !
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 11:35 AM
  #4590  
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Wife looking for some help with husband's gift.

My husband has a 1990 Nisson Maxima that he loves and the thing will not die! I am trying to figure out what to get him for Christmas and his Maxima has not had speakers that work for YEARS. Can someone point me in the right direction to get him some that will work for his car? Used is ok. I just started reading and read something about using some kind of connectors that won't mess up the electrical system and then I got more and more confused.

So, can someone help out a 'completely inexperienced with cars and audio system' wife? I think this would make my husband happpy. I just need someone to hold my hand...
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 12:34 PM
  #4591  
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Originally Posted by 1990Looker
My husband has a 1990 Nisson Maxima that he loves and the thing will not die! I am trying to figure out what to get him for Christmas and his Maxima has not had speakers that work for YEARS. Can someone point me in the right direction to get him some that will work for his car? Used is ok. I just started reading and read something about using some kind of connectors that won't mess up the electrical system and then I got more and more confused.

So, can someone help out a 'completely inexperienced with cars and audio system' wife? I think this would make my husband happpy. I just need someone to hold my hand...
well, will you be my wife? lol

seriously, though, car audio installation is relatively simple, now days.
any car stereo will work, with an adapter. the colors are standardized, and labeled for their different functions. if you can wrap electrical tape around a bare wire, you can do it (or if he can).

speakers are a little more complicated, but not by much. basically, you would cut the wires off of the harness, and hook them to the speakers. I got some quick connect terminals (like these), and hooked them to the speakers.
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #4592  
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I'm already taken, BenStoked. Sorry.

Where would I get the speakers? Do they need to be speakers FROM a 1990 Maxima or can I get some that would be compatible with the car. I read something about there being a 4 speaker system...do I buy them all together or separately?
Old Dec 3, 2009 | 03:51 PM
  #4593  
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Originally Posted by 1990Looker
I'm already taken, BenStoked. Sorry.

Where would I get the speakers? Do they need to be speakers FROM a 1990 Maxima or can I get some that would be compatible with the car. I read something about there being a 4 speaker system...do I buy them all together or separately?

Well does he have the bose system. Really if you eant to make i easy on your self just go to a best buy and they can tell you size and type etc. Hell you can prolly just call.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 07:56 AM
  #4594  
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Hm, I think he has an after factory stereo in there. I think I might try the Best Buy method. If anyone has any other ideas, I am open to them! THANKS
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:18 AM
  #4595  
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Originally Posted by 1990Looker
Hm, I think he has an after factory stereo in there. I think I might try the Best Buy method. If anyone has any other ideas, I am open to them! THANKS

Yea just call them and they can giev you speaker sizes. i think 6 3/4" in the rear and 4x6" in the front factory wise. you can always for the front get a biiger speaker just nned an adapter.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #4596  
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now im starting to want to do the timing blet myself i just got a quote for like $675.00 ouch.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:44 AM
  #4597  
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Would I buy the speakers there? Where is a good place to buy them. Sorry, I really need some hand holding.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #4598  
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I have a 94 max with 203,000 miles. The auto trans is acting up it at first would be a slow shifting and coming home the other day it just would not shift. The speedo will go normal until around 35 and trans will not shift then the speedo will just drop until the speed matches the rpm I guess any clue. I paid $300 for the car and dont want to put to much in it. Its fully loaded with twin cam 3.0.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #4599  
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Originally Posted by 02maxdd
I have a 94 max with 203,000 miles. The auto trans is acting up it at first would be a slow shifting and coming home the other day it just would not shift. The speedo will go normal until around 35 and trans will not shift then the speedo will just drop until the speed matches the rpm I guess any clue. I paid $300 for the car and dont want to put to much in it. Its fully loaded with twin cam 3.0.
can you take a well-narrated video of this? i'm only halfway understanding what the car is doing.
Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #4600  
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Video cam is broke!! The main concern is the trans will pull about 4k at 30 mph or so. I just bought the car so dont know much about it. The speedo will just drop to 0 then pic back up when the trans gets back to speed.



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