jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you actually got a 95 Maxima if you got those codes. But according to the FSM, there are two crank sensors on it and the ECU is not receiving the proper signals from both sensors, thus your two crank sensor codes. And for code 44, you may want to re-check since there is nothing about that code.

Check out the following link for the FSM. The EC section will give you all the information you need to solve your problems.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1995/ec.pdf

Crank sensor locations are on page 11.

If you need more help, head on over to the 4th gen section as they will know a lot more about this.

daCook

Hi,

Does anyone know where I can buy a door locking mechanism for a 93 Maxima? Preferably new, from a parts store that sends overseas. I did some searching, but couldn't find much. Possibly because I don't even know the exact name of the part that I need. What I need is the mechanical part that holds the door shut. Not the part that you stick your key in (sorry, but I don't know the exact technical term for the part).

Thnx.

daCook

Just learned that the part I need is called a door latch.
Still haven't found one, but possibly don't even need one:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/fix...echanisms.html

MaxKGB

iTrader: (1)

Was wonderin how this mystery turned out. Surprise! the Newbie - Just Registered was dead on. Ok I'm done tooting my own horn and being lame. Partly I wanted to try this quote thing but mostly I wanted to be a loser.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

HI everyone, I am thinking of purchasing a used 1991 Maxima (auto tranny), and I took it for a test drive yesterday, I like it, except for a couple things, wondering if they were problems or "features" I would need to get used to.

* spirited accelleration off a stop light, it doesn't shift out of first until almost at redline. When it does shift into 2nd, it's very slow in doing so. Is this normal, or could I just need a transmission service? Car only has 120K miles on it

*brakes. They stop the car, but they feel spongy...like it takes about half the pedal before I feel resistance on them. I didn't do any panic stops to test though...

*at a stop, in drive, the car vibrates more than I'm used to. The idle is not erratic, but I get feedback from the brake pedal at a stop.

I am overall impressed with the car, the dealership wants 4 grand for it, blue books at 2600. I am thinking of offering 3-3250 but I don't want to be in a money pit if the things I mentioned above are telltale signs of actual issues.

Thanks

whcapecod

Just broke down the second day driving my new 1992 Maxima sohc. This is what happened. Drove perfect for about 30miles. I shut it off, ran in to the registry 20 minutes later. It cranked and cranked, started with a skip and seemed like it was flooded. I had to drive with two feet the 30 miles home with no check engine light. I know, not a good move! And the cat was glowing. 24 hours later. It starts right up and running perfect. So, where do I start? cam sensor, crank sensor, temp sensor, or computer. The previous owner warmed me about this problem. They replaced all fuel injectors. Anyways, I'm caring for my 81 year old mother. Wheel-less until I square this away. Can't be stuck on the side of the road with Mom. Hoping this is a common problem. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, -Bill

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

$4k is too much, especially for a GXE. 4k will get you a done up VE 5spd from someone on here. with the tranny, brake, and possibly motor mount problems its worth no more than $750. i would pass

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

bluebook is around for a reason; dealer made a bad investment, and is trying to scam someone. Offer way less, than bluebook. If they refuse, walk away. it's not a place to do business with.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys. Called them up and told them I would be willing to pay book value, they declined, wanted 3500 so I told them (politely of course) to go pound sand.


In what little research I have done thus far, I am really liking the 3rd and 4th gen maximas... its just a b!tch trying to find one with low miles (less than 150k)

maxima278

iTrader: (3)

ok, working 12 hours a day and searching for answers is not going well... Can someone give me a complete parts list for swapping a 94 VE automatic to a VE5? Or a link to one would be fine too

I may have found a transmission, axles and hubs for a good price, but shipping all that may be expensive cross country so I don't want to get the axles and hubs if I don't need them,

and since parts cars and junk yard finds are getting harder to come by, what can I get from a VG car that will work? specifically shift linkage, mounts, etc.

Rambosliice

You could always go to jdmengines.com and get a quote on a slighlty used motor for any Nissan really under 150k but if you look long enough you can definatly find one with 150k that still runs like new

http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/engine_details/nissan_nissan-maxima-jdm-motor-ve30e-ve30de-ve30-de-ve-engine

http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/126/Nissan_VE30DE_Maxima

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

theyre 2 completely different vehicles really, but 3rd gens are better because theyre from before Nissan went to VQ

just gotta try to find one a old person is selling, ive seen quite a few low mileage 3rd gens around still

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

trans, trans mounts, clutch, flywheel from VE car.
shifter assembly, master cylinder, pedals, clutch lines can be had from any 3rd gen.
Can't remember if the slave cylinder is the same or not

maximajquery

Hi:

I don't have enough posts yet to post in the classifieds; so I will post here if anyone needs the stock springs from 91 GXE. They have a bit of rust near one end. I don't need them; so will toss them if no wants them. I don't know how much the shipping costs...

I also have barely used wade tinted headlight covers for sale and also stock headlights, both GXE and SE tail lights, etc. I have the center plastic console in good shape also.

I also will also soon have extra stock GXE alloy wheels which I painted black. I am in the bay area.

NotoriousBUN

Greetings Forumites,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I purchased a 1993 GXE (202K miles) as a project for myself which will ultimately become my daughter's car (she wears her hair in a rather poofy bun, hence the screen name). The car has a great body and interior, but was not running due to injector malfunction.
I have installed new injectors (not reman), replaced the timing belt and water pump and spark plugs. The car runs fine now, albeit one major problem. When I drive the car, the tramsmission shifts into second fine, but the shift out of second into third seems to more like neutral. If I rev it, it seems to grab a tiny bit (after 4500RPM) of what appears to be more like first gear-and-a-half (judging by RPM's). It's like third has been replaced by "no gear" or "neutral gear".
Does it sound like I may have missed an essential plug or vaccuum line during re-assembly? Or is this the end of the transmission as we know it? I'm hoping for the former of course.
The car seems to drive fine other than some tell-tail torque-steer, I'm guessing from the lack of LCA bushings. Given the fine sheet metal and feel of the car, I'd hate to scrap it because of the bad trans.
Any hope that this might be caused by something other than internal trans failure?
And for all the piktcha hoes:




Thanks and glad to meet you!

Bill

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

the only thing i can think of is maybe its the speed sensor. could be the tranny though, GXE trannies are weak and made for 4 cylinder engines. they dont last too long lol

jtlb420

i have a 91 maxima se that runs great, my issue is the windshield wiper linkage was broke when i bought it, i replaced the linkage rod that was faulty but now i cant get it to stay clipped to the wiper motor any tricks? its a pain to reach in the cowl every time it rains to try and re-fix the thing. my other issue is the gas guage lies alot, itll stop at a half tank and then drop to empty and go back up to a quarter, when i fill it it never goes all the way to the full mark any ideas?

frankiepIII

I own a 94 maxima with bose sound system. My dad and I found this car at this house with the windows down and the previous owner said it has sitting out there for atleast 3 years. Also for those 3 years it has had the windows down so it has gone through all the weather. We completely cleaned the inside and stripped it down to the metal floor and even took out all the seats. all the stuff in the dashboard work and ac and heating work and everything is working properly but the radio. So this is my question... Why can't i get the radio to work. I even bought a new radio with the adapter for the bose system but still the radio won't turn on. The only thing that happens when i plug in the radio is it makes the antenna go up. Can this have to do with the amplifiers near the speakers cause they most likely got ruined in the rain or is it some wiring issues. I need help please.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you said you bought a harness, so I will presume you have an aftermarket deck.

1) the amps must be bypassed to make the speakers work with your new deck.

2) If the speakers are the original Bose, I highly advise replacing them.The Bose speakers are 1ohm (IIRC), while most headunits are capable of outputting to them, there is a chance of frying the deck's amplifier. They're designed for 4ohm loads. There's also the fact the speakers are 17 years old (and likely would show their age) and have been (for all intents and porpoises) sitting outside for three years.

redhunter

Those bose speaker amps only lasted about 15 years on my '91 max and this was a 100% garaged car in a mostly dry climate car. I would also recommend that you replace the speakers. There are many threads in this forum that will walk you through replacing the speakers and tell you which wires to use from the existing harness. I bought some cheap speakers at walmart and a pair of inexpensive door speaker adapters off ebay - although I wish I threw some dynamat in the doors while I had them open.

Mattx4

hey guys. i just replaced a few bad injectors on my 91 se. i also replaced a cracked manifold with some busted studs. (pain in the ****!) i put everything back together and now my car is struggling to start. it almost acts like my battery is dying, like it is struggling to crank over. i know it is not the battery though because although it is struggling to crank, it WILL continue cranking until the car starts. once the car is running, it runs great. no more exhaust leak (thank god) and no more misfire. it purrs like a kitten. i thought maybe i had tightened the tension pulley too tightly and was causing drag on the crank shaft?? but i loosened the belt a little and it's still struggling. any ideas???

The_Danimal

New here obviously, very impressed with the community and 3rd gens as I search around. Anyways...

My friends' grandma can no longer drive her 1990 Maxima SE (Auto) that has 156,xxx miles on it. It's super clean (garage always!), no rust, reg oil changes, timing belt replaced @ 122,xxx miles. Has usual issues with sound system (Bose), and antenna/windows, but mechanically all is sound. Leather seats even still look classy.

I believe the transmission is okay, fluid looks clean and it shifts but apparently these are the weak leak and go out at any moment...

He wants $1000 - seem reasonable? Maybe a tad high...mostly concerned with the automatic tranny issues that seem to arise.

Thanks for the feedback!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

if its old lady driven its most likely never been bagged, i wouldnt worry. rust free especially makes it work 1k

fatvet

GL finding a car !!!
not sure where you are? i have i think a 3rd gen car for sale.... 1992
$800
was trying to make and ad but my post count is too low....
i have a craigslist ad though at the moment.
http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/2765788833.html
-ALF out...

max_overdrive

i have a muffler question, im goning to put on a magnaflow single in and out but i have searched on here and some say they have alot of drone,but they usually have more done to the exhaust.

my question is with stock 2'' exhaust and a glasspack resonator will i have much drone ? im just trying to get some sound from this exhaust, i hate driving a quiet car.

91 vg 5 speed

catattak20

I think I have searched and reviewed every post related to this topic and have not found the answer.

First, the brake lights work fine and the fuse good. (that covers 98% of the posts I saw relating to dash lights not working) and all other lights, warning, interior and exterior all work fine.

Initially the lights would go out so I would firmly hit the steering wheel and they would come back on, eventually this no longer worked. I presumed a loose connection in the steering column. I removed the steering column housing and checked all the wires and found nothing loose. I also jiggled every connector and wire in the column and was not able to get the dash lights to even flicker. (Yes I did this with the dimmer switch reconnected)

I then pulled the dash and slid the instrument cluster out and jiggled those wires and connectors as well. I them removed the cluster and took it to my bench where I tested every light by applying 12v and they all lit up. I then manually applied 12v to the ribbon and the instrument cluster lit up.

I took the cluster back to the car and reconnected it. When the lights are off, the ribbon is grounded on both sides (as I expected), but when the lights were turned on, BOTH sides of the ribbon went hot.

I hope someone has experienced this and can tell me why both sides of the ribbon are going hot. I also disconnect the dimmer switch expecting the circuit to be dead, but I got the same results...I stopped there because, to my limited knowledge, you pull a switch, the circuit is dead...right?

Thanks!

walo rex

hi guys
i have a 91 maxima has the vg30e and a mechanic told me the engine was gonna fail because the crankshaft pulley it's vibrating as it turns and makes an awfull skeaky sound
i was wondering is it better to reconstruct the engine or get an other one

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

i had the exact same thing on mine, had the pulley replaced once and it fixed the wobbling but about a year later it started doing it again, crankshaft itself was screwed up

i drove it like that for over a year although it just wobbled badly and made no noise, even after that the engine blew and started knocking from cooking a bearing

its not worth rebuilding it, VG30E are so plentiful i would drive it until the engine dies and afterwards just get a new engine

max_overdrive

me again, my maxima has a rough idle and you can hear a popping from the exhaust but it runs good ,
i played with the MAF and when i unplug it the idle smooths out and no more exhaust popping but i cant rev it at all past 7-800 rpm (idle). i plug it back in and the rough idle/popping returns.revs fine.

is this a bad maf? if so can i use a MAF from any 3rd gen or vg only?

lkiller123

Hey guys, I have a black auto SE with 110k miles on it.

It's been running like a champ, but recently the car tends to shut off only when I put it into manual. 7 out of 10 times, the car would just shut off when it goes into R gear from either P or N. It does not shut off at all when I put it into drive.

What's going on?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

what year of SE? 89-91 and 92-94 SE have different engines

you could have a vacuum leak that causes it to stall out

lrgross

90 maxima gxe V6. I tested my antifreeze and it was supposedly good to go, but we got a couple of extremely cold days here in Ky and the system froze. I started the engine and the water pump was frozen and burned the belt off pretty fast. I need some info on freeze out plugs. BTW the water pump is turning freely now. Also, when idling or coasting my car will rev up and down annoyingly. I am thinking this is a throttle positioning sensor, but im not sure. If someone would please shoot me some info, i cant seem to find it anywhere online. Feel free to email me at lrgross_85@yahoo.com

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

freeze plugs are so that your block doesnt get damaged if your coolant freezes, the freeze plugs are supposed to get all of your coolant out of the block. i would get it looked at, you might need a new water pump

the erratic idling could be from a vacuum line leak as well

lkiller123

I have a 94 SE, thanks for the reply!

OGMaxima

Greetings, I am a noob here but was with my parents when they bought their 92 Maxima in 1992 from the dealer (I was 12 years old then so I have many memories with the car and really want to fix it completely and do a few mods to it like a 5 spd conversion in the future and rear disc conversion). I was given the car a year ago, and the car was taken care of pretty well before it was given to me, but it does have problems. I just went through a severe headache with the electrical because of shorted out tail light sockets which is now fixed.. I ripped the whole damn dash out because I was certain it was a bad relay or switch that was causing my tail lights to go out. As frustrated as I was ripping the dash out, it was a great chance to see the superior design (behind the dash at least) when compared to my 1991 through 1993 Tbirds I had in the past.


Now I have an engine issue.. the car normally would run great, but every once in a while it would have a slight shake to it like it would be miss-firing but it would go away when I jumped on the gas (no check engine light either)... I found the problem to be both a few bad spark plug wires, and a vacuum leak - the car went completely back to normal right after fixing this. Then the car would have the same exact problem again - I would check and nothing would be wrong, no codes, etc... then the next day it would be completely gone (even with the same weather)... it has gone back and forth like this for months, and the check engine light would very very rarely turn on, and then go right back off after minutes...



Now... the car runs terrible as of yesterday (and it was 85 degrees here in Los Angeles at the time). The check engine light is on and wont turn off at all, and the car shakes horribly (like my pushrod Tbird 347ci V8 did with a wild cam in it) at idle but its a slow shake and idles at around 500rpms, and is WEAK... even when moving if you jump on the gas, it does not want to move real fast, and it takes a good 30 seconds to get to 50mph...

This time the plug wires look fine, and I dont see any more vacuum lines popped off (I went through this a while back when they started to wear and changed out most of them).

Last night I got into the car and test drove it around the block (it was around 50 degrees last night) and it felt a LOT better and moved quicker like as if more cylinders were firing, but the check engine light was still on. So I park it at home, and start jiggling the harness going to the fuel injectors, and noticed an area that was taped up with electrical tape possibly from a previous repair my parents had to have done in the past.

This past of the harness was in the split section of the upper plenum, where the wires branch off to the front and back side injectors. After shaking that harness a little bit, and pressing on the plugs to each injector to make sure they were each seated tightly, I got back in and the car was shaking horribly like before just that it was doing it very very fast!! It idled around 900rpms last night but the power was gone again.. in fact it was even worse then yesterday with the 85 degree heat I mentioned above..

Are there know problems with these harnesses?

I checked the forum and found other people with the same issue, but never saw a "definite" answer to the problem, so please forgive me mods if I am regurgitating this unnecessarily!

I do have enough experience working with cars to fix it if I can pin point the problem (I tricked out my Tbird beyond belief before it was stolen with a hand built blue-printed motor and many other over the top mods)but I am short on money right now, so I am really hoping its not the injectors!!

Now logic would tell me to look at the injectors, and unplug each one, etc... and to also look at the harness and fix any damage if there is any at all after my experience last night but i wanted to get any other suggestions before I dive into it this evening first.

I have a slight suspicion that when I was checking the spark plug wires last night (it was real dark out and I had a crappy flash light) I may have reversed a few wires on accident even though the car doesnt back fire...

I can look at the distributor cap and the cylinder numbers are listed for each plug, but im not sure how the cylinders are numbered on the motor physically... which means I may have the wire from cylinder 4 as it appears on the cap, hooked up to cylinder 6 for all I know!!

Does any body have a diagram of the SOHC 92 Maxima motor showing how the cylinders are numbered on the motor itself so I can make sure that the plug wires are plugged in correctly? I checked google, and cant find a whole lot except some info saying the firing order on the car was 1-2-3-4-5-6 which sounded ridiculous to me especially after looking at the distributor cap.

This is a long post for my first one and may sound repetitive and I apologize, but to sum it up I was wondering if you guys could help me by providing...


1. any other suggestions to look for when I go out to work on the car this evening or tomorrow

2. The firing order of the motor in my Maxima, and info that will tell me how the cylinders on the motor are numbered so I can make sure that the plug wires are hooked up correctly.

my email is listed at the bottom of the page if you prefer to email me directly..

The car is a 92 GXE, auto, SOHC motor with about 142k on the clock so its relatively low miles for an older car like this.. I just want to put the car back together and get it running correctly so I can smog it!! The tags expired in December and being in Cali with these bull**** smog laws makes it pretty much the most strict state - the last thing I want is to attempt a smog check on the car when its running like this, and have it fail!

Thank you very much in advance and I look forward to being a permanent fixture on this site!!

supercoupe006@yahoo.com

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah i would check the MAF, vacuum lines for leaks, and TPS

Dale1bre

Ok, so I just bought my niece a 91 maxima. Replaced a fuel injector and now another one is not working. Turns out I have no power to one side, of course it is the one coming from ecu. Tested it at ecu, and no power. Do I have to replace the whole ecu? Anything that could have caused this problem so it does not happen again?

DTT2010

HI im new on here and i have a 93 maxima that is having trouble with its charging of the alt. I put a new alternator on it but it dosent seem that the charge is getting to the battery also when i first get in the car to turn it on the interior lights and dash lights wont come on untill i start the car and reve the engine a lil this all started the other day when i was putting a battery in and when i take the battery cable off while the car is running it will just quit running all togeather and i would love to no why.

redhunter

No power to what? The ECU or the injector?

Dale1bre

Ok, figured that out. Injector was bad so it was not powering, got that fixed, now I have the weirdest thing I have ever seen. I have a fuel leak big time, and it is coming out of the exhaust manifold on rear of the engine. Removed everything again, and no leaks around injectors. Could my cylinder be bad, and it's not burning the fuel?