*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
01-29-2012, 09:03 PM
#6761
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 62
This could be a number of things, but your symptoms sound similar to my car a few months ago. After checking about everything, I discovered it was a loose rotor. This applies if you have a VG engine with a distributor.
01-29-2012, 10:53 PM
#6762
I still have a couple things, which I want to ask for advice on. First, my rear passenger side window is partially open and won't move. I know this is probably a regulator. What is the cheapest and easiest way for me to fix this problem. I wouldn't be unhappy if I could just get the window to go up and me to never be able to use it again.
The next problem will be a little more expensive, but hopefully one of you know where I can save some money. The exhaust is gone. From what I can see, everything is rotted through from the manifold back. I want to know if I would be able to find a bolt on kit, header or manifold back for cheap. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything.
The next problem will be a little more expensive, but hopefully one of you know where I can save some money. The exhaust is gone. From what I can see, everything is rotted through from the manifold back. I want to know if I would be able to find a bolt on kit, header or manifold back for cheap. I've looked online and can't seem to find anything.
For the manifold thing, just to be clear, your whole exhaust system is rotted? are they cracked or they just don't look nice?
01-30-2012, 11:04 AM
#6763
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
For the window, brace it up with 2 1x1 wood blocks for the left and right base of the glass. Just take the door panel apart, drill 2 pair of holes on the door sheet metal for the wood blocks, and fasten the blocks with wood screws. Be sure you got the correct height for the blocks to secure the glass. You can also remove the regulator along the process.
For the manifold thing, just to be clear, your whole exhaust system is rotted? are they cracked or they just don't look nice?
For the manifold thing, just to be clear, your whole exhaust system is rotted? are they cracked or they just don't look nice?
Sent from my phone.
01-31-2012, 01:11 AM
#6764
Check your local wreckyard for the exhaust system. You have to be a good spotter to have a good purchase. Itll be just hard to remove the manifold bolts without breaking 'em. I'm not sure if you live in california but you have to have a catalytic converter if it's damaged as well. They're pretty damn expensive to replace o.O
01-31-2012, 04:05 PM
#6765
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 16
Check your local wreckyard for the exhaust system. You have to be a good spotter to have a good purchase. Itll be just hard to remove the manifold bolts without breaking 'em. I'm not sure if you live in california but you have to have a catalytic converter if it's damaged as well. They're pretty damn expensive to replace o.O
01-31-2012, 08:09 PM
#6766
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 37
92 max auto tran ecu code 21 ignition signal ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by swr
UPDATE : trying what I could to get it running better to drive to work today I changed the plugs and new fuel filter, tried adjusting timing , Looked all around for any loose electrical connections and vacuum leaks. IT is still doing same thing hesitating and sometimes backfiring while trying to slowly accelerate from stopped position , if I punch it , it seems to get going in a couple seconds and power kicks in kinda like normal hitting that power band while keeping it accelerated , then repeats symptoms after I slow down or stop and try to slowly/normally accelerate , I finally have to punch it again to get going ??? ANY SUGGESTIONS WHAT WOULD BE CAUSING THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED ! Thanks Scott
Udate I just pulled my codes and only got a 21 ignition signal can any one expand on this or send me a link to explain it better , as per my previous posts the above symtoms are going on , I have power balance check all cylnders firing , been trying to locate any vacuum leaks, check canister, seems its starving for fuel when it hesitates or the ingnition signal goes weak/ and sarts working right again when stats running ok for a few minutes really has me baffled only have this code 21 to work with now any help greatly appreciated again Scott.
update # 2 being baffled after trying all the tests that were suggested by you great forum members last resort took it to my mechanic who stays really busy , well he suspects its the distributor ordered one will be trying that thurs to see if its the culprit. I hope so its a process of elimination now if not at least I wont have to buy part he can return hope this is it any one else out ther have a distributor go bad on them ????????????? again 92 max gxe vg 30 e auto tran thanks Scott
Originally Posted by swr
UPDATE : trying what I could to get it running better to drive to work today I changed the plugs and new fuel filter, tried adjusting timing , Looked all around for any loose electrical connections and vacuum leaks. IT is still doing same thing hesitating and sometimes backfiring while trying to slowly accelerate from stopped position , if I punch it , it seems to get going in a couple seconds and power kicks in kinda like normal hitting that power band while keeping it accelerated , then repeats symptoms after I slow down or stop and try to slowly/normally accelerate , I finally have to punch it again to get going ??? ANY SUGGESTIONS WHAT WOULD BE CAUSING THIS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED ! Thanks Scott
Udate I just pulled my codes and only got a 21 ignition signal can any one expand on this or send me a link to explain it better , as per my previous posts the above symtoms are going on , I have power balance check all cylnders firing , been trying to locate any vacuum leaks, check canister, seems its starving for fuel when it hesitates or the ingnition signal goes weak/ and sarts working right again when stats running ok for a few minutes really has me baffled only have this code 21 to work with now any help greatly appreciated again Scott.
update # 2 being baffled after trying all the tests that were suggested by you great forum members last resort took it to my mechanic who stays really busy , well he suspects its the distributor ordered one will be trying that thurs to see if its the culprit. I hope so its a process of elimination now if not at least I wont have to buy part he can return hope this is it any one else out ther have a distributor go bad on them ????????????? again 92 max gxe vg 30 e auto tran thanks Scott
02-01-2012, 08:52 AM
#6767
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 23
Found out what was wrong.. I have a bad fuel injector... Probably gonna go to my local junkyard today and grab one... Do you know if the 95 or 96 tail fin would fit on my 94!? Somehow mine went missing from the previous owner
... please disregard cap and rotor. thought you had a VG
02-01-2012, 09:17 AM
#6768
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: CT all day.
Posts: 1
OK i never used a forum so i figured this is where id start. I noticed that the VQ30DE (which my 01 GLE has) is the same bottom end as the larger 3.5 VQ maxima and the 350z's bottom end. My question is if i happened to get my hands on either top end would it pretty much bolt on with exception of the pumps and wiring? thanks for any help.
02-02-2012, 02:50 AM
#6770
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Ongoing Electrical System Saga.
Hi. I have a 1993 Maxima with the SOHC engine. I was headed home from work just over a week ago, and I decided to stop at the convenience store. So after driving for 10 minutes, and turning the car off for 10 minutes at the store, it wouldn't start. Obvious low voltage situation. I jump started it, and it fired right up.
Got it home and replaced the alternator with a remanufactured one from Napa. About a week after replacing the alternator, the battery light came on. "Huh. I'll have to get the battery and alternator checked" I thought. Two days later, I am headed to work this time when I hear a crackle on my factory radio. I turn the radio off... but I still hear a crackle. Then it all started to go to hell.
The engine started to sputter and wouldn't get power at all. I limped it the half a mile or so I had left to get to work and it died completely. After coasting into a parking spot, it wouldn't start. Just clicking, wouldn't turn over. I took the battery to AutoZone where they told me it had 1/3 charge and tested bad. They replaced it under warranty.
I stuck the new battery in it and it started right up. I drove it home but the battery light stayed on. I took it to a local shop the next day to have the battery and alternator tested. The battery tested at about 13 volts running, and the alternator was charging, but the battery light was still on. I replaced the battery terminals at the suggestion of the old fellow from the shop... same thing... car ran fine, battery light still on.
Later that night, I had the exact same series of symptoms above happen... crackle in the radio, engine sputter, no power. It died as I coasted into a parking spot. Again, the battery was drained, but this time it held a charge and tested good. Again, when I put the freshly charged battery in it, it started up fine immediately and drove fine to get me home, but the battery light is still on.
Anybody got any ideas? Did I get a dud alternator or is something else wrong?
Hi. I have a 1993 Maxima with the SOHC engine. I was headed home from work just over a week ago, and I decided to stop at the convenience store. So after driving for 10 minutes, and turning the car off for 10 minutes at the store, it wouldn't start. Obvious low voltage situation. I jump started it, and it fired right up.
Got it home and replaced the alternator with a remanufactured one from Napa. About a week after replacing the alternator, the battery light came on. "Huh. I'll have to get the battery and alternator checked" I thought. Two days later, I am headed to work this time when I hear a crackle on my factory radio. I turn the radio off... but I still hear a crackle. Then it all started to go to hell.
The engine started to sputter and wouldn't get power at all. I limped it the half a mile or so I had left to get to work and it died completely. After coasting into a parking spot, it wouldn't start. Just clicking, wouldn't turn over. I took the battery to AutoZone where they told me it had 1/3 charge and tested bad. They replaced it under warranty.
I stuck the new battery in it and it started right up. I drove it home but the battery light stayed on. I took it to a local shop the next day to have the battery and alternator tested. The battery tested at about 13 volts running, and the alternator was charging, but the battery light was still on. I replaced the battery terminals at the suggestion of the old fellow from the shop... same thing... car ran fine, battery light still on.
Later that night, I had the exact same series of symptoms above happen... crackle in the radio, engine sputter, no power. It died as I coasted into a parking spot. Again, the battery was drained, but this time it held a charge and tested good. Again, when I put the freshly charged battery in it, it started up fine immediately and drove fine to get me home, but the battery light is still on.
Anybody got any ideas? Did I get a dud alternator or is something else wrong?
02-03-2012, 09:57 AM
#6773
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4
Quick update:
I checked my wiring, and found nothing wrong, so I pulled the alternator back off the car and took it back to Napa. I was not shocked (sic) when it bench tested bad.
I was also unsuprised when the first replacement part had external damage on the pulley. It was just a dent that looked like it had been dropped on the soft brass pulley... but I didn't want to risk it shredding a belt or having internal damage from being dropped... so now I am patiently awaiting alternator #3.
Guess what... it's going on the bench before it goes on my car.
I checked my wiring, and found nothing wrong, so I pulled the alternator back off the car and took it back to Napa. I was not shocked (sic) when it bench tested bad.
I was also unsuprised when the first replacement part had external damage on the pulley. It was just a dent that looked like it had been dropped on the soft brass pulley... but I didn't want to risk it shredding a belt or having internal damage from being dropped... so now I am patiently awaiting alternator #3.
Guess what... it's going on the bench before it goes on my car.
02-03-2012, 04:09 PM
#6774
not really surprising, we use Napa parts at work and some vehicles have had to get the alternator replaced again 5-8 months later under warranty. i would try to maybe get a new one vs a reman
02-07-2012, 01:27 PM
#6776
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
Well, I'm a noob so I'm posting my question here. This is about my girlfriends 1993 Maxima.
It started running pretty crappy a couple of weeks ago. The previous owner told us that it was exhibiting the same symptoms as when a fuel injector went out on her before. I did some searches on here and other forums and concluded that she was probably right. So, I did the following checks:
With the car idling I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time. When I pulled the wire from cylinder #1 the idle did not change, when I pulled the wire from any of the other cylinders the idle got worse.
I unplugged the fuel injector wire from this cylinder and the idle did not change, when I pulled it from any other cylinder the idle got worse.
I pulled and tested the spark plug from #1 cylinder and it works.
I used my multi meter to test the injectors per instructions found on forums. The other injectors reading were within spec but the #1 cylinder did not produce a reading at all.
So, I'm fairly confident that this fuel injector is my problem BUT can someone experienced tell me if there are any other checks I should conduct to make sure?
Thanks in advance.
It started running pretty crappy a couple of weeks ago. The previous owner told us that it was exhibiting the same symptoms as when a fuel injector went out on her before. I did some searches on here and other forums and concluded that she was probably right. So, I did the following checks:
With the car idling I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time. When I pulled the wire from cylinder #1 the idle did not change, when I pulled the wire from any of the other cylinders the idle got worse.
I unplugged the fuel injector wire from this cylinder and the idle did not change, when I pulled it from any other cylinder the idle got worse.
I pulled and tested the spark plug from #1 cylinder and it works.
I used my multi meter to test the injectors per instructions found on forums. The other injectors reading were within spec but the #1 cylinder did not produce a reading at all.
So, I'm fairly confident that this fuel injector is my problem BUT can someone experienced tell me if there are any other checks I should conduct to make sure?
Thanks in advance.
02-07-2012, 03:13 PM
#6777
Well, I'm a noob so I'm posting my question here. This is about my girlfriends 1993 Maxima.
It started running pretty crappy a couple of weeks ago. The previous owner told us that it was exhibiting the same symptoms as when a fuel injector went out on her before. I did some searches on here and other forums and concluded that she was probably right. So, I did the following checks:
With the car idling I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time. When I pulled the wire from cylinder #1 the idle did not change, when I pulled the wire from any of the other cylinders the idle got worse.
I unplugged the fuel injector wire from this cylinder and the idle did not change, when I pulled it from any other cylinder the idle got worse.
I pulled and tested the spark plug from #1 cylinder and it works.
I used my multi meter to test the injectors per instructions found on forums. The other injectors reading were within spec but the #1 cylinder did not produce a reading at all.
So, I'm fairly confident that this fuel injector is my problem BUT can someone experienced tell me if there are any other checks I should conduct to make sure?
Thanks in advance.
It started running pretty crappy a couple of weeks ago. The previous owner told us that it was exhibiting the same symptoms as when a fuel injector went out on her before. I did some searches on here and other forums and concluded that she was probably right. So, I did the following checks:
With the car idling I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time. When I pulled the wire from cylinder #1 the idle did not change, when I pulled the wire from any of the other cylinders the idle got worse.
I unplugged the fuel injector wire from this cylinder and the idle did not change, when I pulled it from any other cylinder the idle got worse.
I pulled and tested the spark plug from #1 cylinder and it works.
I used my multi meter to test the injectors per instructions found on forums. The other injectors reading were within spec but the #1 cylinder did not produce a reading at all.
So, I'm fairly confident that this fuel injector is my problem BUT can someone experienced tell me if there are any other checks I should conduct to make sure?
Thanks in advance.
02-08-2012, 09:51 AM
#6778
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
Update on the window, it now works fine. I didn't even take the panel off. I went out and tried rolling it up and it was working just like new...IDK if I have a short or something somewhere, and I don't really care. I'm just not going to use that window any more.
My next problem - front turn signals. When I try to use them, the lights don't blink, they just stay on. Is this a common problem? The rears work fine and the hazards stick on in the front as well.
Thanks for all your help!
02-09-2012, 12:12 AM
#6780
02-09-2012, 01:23 AM
#6781
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
Hi everyone...I am having a small problem with my automatic tranny 1991 MAX SE. Here's the deal:
Rough idle bouncing 500 to 700 when in Drive, and acceleration was sluggish. (Perfect rock steady 800 idle when in Park, Reverse, or Neutral. No issues at all).
Installed new MAF and clean air filter.. The acceleration issue improved in the high gears, but still somewhat sluggish when in first gear. Idle in Drive slightly better but still rough.
Cleaned the idle air control valve. Slight improvement. But idle rpm will still bounce from 500 to almost 700 when idling in Drive.
I manually increased the idle RPM by turning the ECU screw fully clockwise, then turning the idle adjustment screw on the IACV counterclockwise. This increased the idle to about 900 to 1050 when the transmission is in Park, Reverse, or Neutral. It also helped the rough idle problem somewhat by increasing the RPM to about 800 when idling in Drive. But oftentimes the RPM still fluctuates and will drop to almost 500. The car never drops below 500rpm and hasn't stalled on me...yet.
Because of these RPM inconsistencies depending on whether the transmission is in Park, Reverse, Neutral of Drive...can I safely assume that the problem lies somewhere with a sensor or the ECU? This is my diagnosis because if the rough idle issue was due to a faulty fuel injector, sensor, vacuum leak , etc. would't the rough idle problem be noticeable regardless of whether the transmission was in Park, Reverse, Neutral or Drive?
Thanks please let me know your thoughts.
Rough idle bouncing 500 to 700 when in Drive, and acceleration was sluggish. (Perfect rock steady 800 idle when in Park, Reverse, or Neutral. No issues at all).
Installed new MAF and clean air filter.. The acceleration issue improved in the high gears, but still somewhat sluggish when in first gear. Idle in Drive slightly better but still rough.
Cleaned the idle air control valve. Slight improvement. But idle rpm will still bounce from 500 to almost 700 when idling in Drive.
I manually increased the idle RPM by turning the ECU screw fully clockwise, then turning the idle adjustment screw on the IACV counterclockwise. This increased the idle to about 900 to 1050 when the transmission is in Park, Reverse, or Neutral. It also helped the rough idle problem somewhat by increasing the RPM to about 800 when idling in Drive. But oftentimes the RPM still fluctuates and will drop to almost 500. The car never drops below 500rpm and hasn't stalled on me...yet.
Because of these RPM inconsistencies depending on whether the transmission is in Park, Reverse, Neutral of Drive...can I safely assume that the problem lies somewhere with a sensor or the ECU? This is my diagnosis because if the rough idle issue was due to a faulty fuel injector, sensor, vacuum leak , etc. would't the rough idle problem be noticeable regardless of whether the transmission was in Park, Reverse, Neutral or Drive?
Thanks please let me know your thoughts.
Well I replaced the spark plus and fuel filter, and it seems to have solved the problem about 95%. There is still a slight bounce in RPM during idle...but it only fluctuates about 100rpm, and the shuddering during idle is gone. So driving the car is satisfactory now.
But I am thinking there might still be a super tiny vacuum leak somewhere...but I can't seem to find it.
02-09-2012, 01:26 AM
#6782
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
Another thing I am worried about is replacing the timing belt...I don't know if it was ever performed. I bought the car used in 2001 with 125,000 miles on it. Drove it sparingly for a couple of years. Then it sat for 3 years in my garage unused until now.
02-09-2012, 02:48 AM
#6783
best bet would be to change the belt/water pump.
02-09-2012, 05:51 PM
#6784
general rule if youre under the mileage is about every 6 years it should be replaced. especially with interference engines its not worth waiting on, best to do the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, crank sensor, etc all at once
02-09-2012, 09:25 PM
#6785
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
Belt, if you want to know how to replace it look here http://www.caraudiohelp.com/nissan_m...e_tutorial.htm
02-10-2012, 07:16 AM
#6786
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 37
ran great agian after new Maf for 30 miles then ??
Hey everybody, I have this 92 max gxe vg30e auto 153k for 2 yrs been a great little car , I did all the major Maintenance (with some help from this forum) when i first got it 2 yrs ago and more on going as needed timing belt changed , 2 injectors, rotor /cap wires plugs, 02 sensor , ignition coil , fuel filter, air filter, poly control arm bushings fuel pressure and injector, timing readings are all within spec
Symtoms are Idle smooth while at stop light , when I go to accelerate from a stopped postion when I take off from a stop under load its sometimes hesitating really bad and some back firing now while pushing on throttle a little. But if I just about punch it it starts to get rpms going and has the power it always had that power band feeling 3 k and up and seems to smooth out accelerate nice . then repeats when I have to come to stop and pull away trying to accelerate I took to my mechanic and he has the power to return electrical items if they dont help so after going after any vaccum leaks , bad grounding points we tried new distributor & power transistor , finally a new MAF sensor got it running great again for about 25 miles of driving then it started same symtoms again he thought the first new maf senor might of been faulty so he again got a new one for me again ran great for about 30 miles its starting all over again but not quite as bad.
funny things if I turn the motor off and resart it sometimes it will run good again for a short while..
like something is resetting by turning the motor off. MY Mechanic now thinks the ecu is going bad causing the timing and fuel mix issues. I have read some things on the forum about people mentioning the coolent temp sensor can also cause similiar probs I changed the one that controls the fan about 2 yrs ago and the temp gauge is working from the other sensor ? so dont think the temp sensor would be a issue ? s has anyone experience this ? any way to check ecu ?
I was looking online at reman ecu like 350.00 is there any way to check these ? going to a junk yard seems risky
. I always drive this car easy due to its my only transpotation any sugesstions from some of you all that have experienced something like this and have suggestions or other tests WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!
Scott
Symtoms are Idle smooth while at stop light , when I go to accelerate from a stopped postion when I take off from a stop under load its sometimes hesitating really bad and some back firing now while pushing on throttle a little. But if I just about punch it it starts to get rpms going and has the power it always had that power band feeling 3 k and up and seems to smooth out accelerate nice . then repeats when I have to come to stop and pull away trying to accelerate I took to my mechanic and he has the power to return electrical items if they dont help so after going after any vaccum leaks , bad grounding points we tried new distributor & power transistor , finally a new MAF sensor got it running great again for about 25 miles of driving then it started same symtoms again he thought the first new maf senor might of been faulty so he again got a new one for me again ran great for about 30 miles its starting all over again but not quite as bad.
funny things if I turn the motor off and resart it sometimes it will run good again for a short while..
like something is resetting by turning the motor off. MY Mechanic now thinks the ecu is going bad causing the timing and fuel mix issues. I have read some things on the forum about people mentioning the coolent temp sensor can also cause similiar probs I changed the one that controls the fan about 2 yrs ago and the temp gauge is working from the other sensor ? so dont think the temp sensor would be a issue ? s has anyone experience this ? any way to check ecu ?
I was looking online at reman ecu like 350.00 is there any way to check these ? going to a junk yard seems risky
. I always drive this car easy due to its my only transpotation any sugesstions from some of you all that have experienced something like this and have suggestions or other tests WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!
Scott
02-10-2012, 08:34 PM
#6787
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 62
. . . I did all the major Maintenance (with some help from this forum) when i first got it 2 yrs ago and more on going as needed timing belt changed , 2 injectors, rotor /cap wires plugs, 02 sensor , ignition coil , fuel filter, air filter, poly control arm bushings fuel pressure and injector, timing readings are all within spec . . .
02-10-2012, 10:25 PM
#6788
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
I really want to change the timing belt, but all the local shops around here are quoting me a price of $650 to $900...my budget is around $300 maximum.
I read the tutorial on how to change it myself, but it seems to difficult for my skills.
I read the tutorial on how to change it myself, but it seems to difficult for my skills.
02-11-2012, 06:17 AM
#6789
before I did mine, I had only done basic maintenance stuff. It's not really difficult, it's just time consuming, and a little cramped. patience is the major key with a t-belt change.
02-11-2012, 07:24 AM
#6790
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 16
different injectors between 89-90'
I just got to putting my overhauled 89' VG into my 90'.I just noticed though that the connectors for the 89' injectors are different than my 90's.Are the injectors the same though spec wise?Can I just use the injector harness connectors from th 89 harness in my 90?Or should I swap the injectors from my 90 motor to the 89'.Thanks
The injectors are the same color,an orangish, in both motors.
The injectors are the same color,an orangish, in both motors.
02-11-2012, 06:24 PM
#6791
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
02-11-2012, 06:25 PM
#6792
02-11-2012, 06:36 PM
#6793
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
02-13-2012, 08:36 PM
#6794
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 70
I just drained the transmission fluid today..damn the drain plug was almost frozen on their. I used some PB blast and a breaker bar to finally get it off.
Anyhow, only about 2 quarts drained out. Is this normal? The automatic transmission on the VG30 holds a 7+ quarts right? I checked the dipstick and it looks normal.
Anyhow, only about 2 quarts drained out. Is this normal? The automatic transmission on the VG30 holds a 7+ quarts right? I checked the dipstick and it looks normal.
02-14-2012, 03:50 PM
#6796
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 37
still having intermentent hesitation issues
Hey everybody, I have this 92 max gxe vg30e auto 153k for 2 yrs been a great little car , I did all the major Maintenance (with some help from this forum) when i first got it 2 yrs ago and more on going as needed timing belt changed , 2 injectors, rotor /cap wires plugs, 02 sensor , ignition coil , fuel filter, air filter, poly control arm bushings fuel pressure and injector, timing readings are all within spec
Symtoms are Idle smooth while at stop light , when I go to accelerate from a stopped postion when I take off from a stop under load its sometimes hesitating really bad and some back firing now while pushing on throttle a little. But if I just about punch it it starts to get rpms going and has the power it always had that power band feeling 3 k and up and seems to smooth out accelerate nice . then repeats when I have to come to stop and pull away trying to accelerate I took to my mechanic and he has the power to return electrical items if they dont help so after going after any vaccum leaks , bad grounding points we tried new distributor & power transistor , finally a new MAF sensor got it running great again for about 25 miles of driving then it started same symtoms again he thought the first new maf senor might of been faulty so he again got a new one for me again ran great for about 30 miles its starting all over again but not quite as bad.
funny things if I turn the motor off and resart it sometimes it will run good again for a short while..
like something is resetting by turning the motor off. MY Mechanic now thinks the ecu is going bad causing the timing and fuel mix issues. I have read some things on the forum about people mentioning the coolent temp sensor can also cause similiar probs I changed the one that controls the fan about 2 yrs ago and the temp gauge is working from the other sensor ? so dont think the temp sensor would be a issue ? s has anyone experience this ? any way to check ecu ?
I was looking online at reman ecu like 350.00 is there any way to check these ? going to a junk yard seems risky
. I always drive this car easy due to its my only transpotation any sugesstions from some of you all that have experienced something like this and have suggestions or other tests WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!
Scott
Symtoms are Idle smooth while at stop light , when I go to accelerate from a stopped postion when I take off from a stop under load its sometimes hesitating really bad and some back firing now while pushing on throttle a little. But if I just about punch it it starts to get rpms going and has the power it always had that power band feeling 3 k and up and seems to smooth out accelerate nice . then repeats when I have to come to stop and pull away trying to accelerate I took to my mechanic and he has the power to return electrical items if they dont help so after going after any vaccum leaks , bad grounding points we tried new distributor & power transistor , finally a new MAF sensor got it running great again for about 25 miles of driving then it started same symtoms again he thought the first new maf senor might of been faulty so he again got a new one for me again ran great for about 30 miles its starting all over again but not quite as bad.
funny things if I turn the motor off and resart it sometimes it will run good again for a short while..
like something is resetting by turning the motor off. MY Mechanic now thinks the ecu is going bad causing the timing and fuel mix issues. I have read some things on the forum about people mentioning the coolent temp sensor can also cause similiar probs I changed the one that controls the fan about 2 yrs ago and the temp gauge is working from the other sensor ? so dont think the temp sensor would be a issue ? s has anyone experience this ? any way to check ecu ?
I was looking online at reman ecu like 350.00 is there any way to check these ? going to a junk yard seems risky
. I always drive this car easy due to its my only transpotation any sugesstions from some of you all that have experienced something like this and have suggestions or other tests WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!!
Scott
As per above my engine I tried a used ecu same issue will intermittently while driving hot or cold run great or will have no power at times until l I fully accelerate then it will kick in and take off not missing a beat, I then slow down or stop it might start again lack of any power and sometimes back fire sometimes while trying to acceleration slowly . this repeats never know when it s going to happen I rechecked all my fuel injectors range 11.5 - except cyl 1 is 14.2 very c.lose to 14 ohms i have changed 2 b4 they were way out 43 ohms I don't remeber it being such a internment issue b4 or any back firing from bad injectors ? these intermittent issue are so frustrating any ideas anyone ????? Thanks Scott
02-14-2012, 03:57 PM
#6797
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 37
Definitively not a lose rotor Thanks i did have that happen once before .
As per above my engine I tried a used ecu same issue will intermittently while driving hot or cold run great or will have no power at times until l I fully accelerate then it will kick in and take off not missing a beat, I then slow down or stop it might start again lack of any power and sometimes back fire sometimes while trying to acceleration slowly . this repeats never know when it s going to happen I rechecked all my fuel injectors range 11.5 - except cyl 1 is 14.2 very c.lose to 14 ohms i have changed 2 b4 they were way out 43 ohms I don't remeber it being such a internment issue b4 or any back firing from bad injectors ? these intermittent issue are so frustrating any ideas anyone ????? Thanks Scott
As per above my engine I tried a used ecu same issue will intermittently while driving hot or cold run great or will have no power at times until l I fully accelerate then it will kick in and take off not missing a beat, I then slow down or stop it might start again lack of any power and sometimes back fire sometimes while trying to acceleration slowly . this repeats never know when it s going to happen I rechecked all my fuel injectors range 11.5 - except cyl 1 is 14.2 very c.lose to 14 ohms i have changed 2 b4 they were way out 43 ohms I don't remeber it being such a internment issue b4 or any back firing from bad injectors ? these intermittent issue are so frustrating any ideas anyone ????? Thanks Scott
02-18-2012, 10:54 PM
#6799
If it is all they way in, it could be that the axle seal in the transmission got damaged when the axle was removed/inserted or it is no longer doing its job due to high mileage. It's a good precaution to change the axle seal along with the axle if it has gone through a lot of miles.
Last edited by jbbons25; 02-18-2012 at 10:56 PM.
02-19-2012, 02:17 PM
#6800
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 16
First thing to check is if the axle is inserted all the way in. There is a ring at the end of the splines that can keep the axle from going all the way in.
If it is all they way in, it could be that the axle seal in the transmission got damaged when the axle was removed/inserted or it is no longer doing its job due to high mileage. It's a good precaution to change the axle seal along with the axle if it has gone through a lot of miles.
If it is all they way in, it could be that the axle seal in the transmission got damaged when the axle was removed/inserted or it is no longer doing its job due to high mileage. It's a good precaution to change the axle seal along with the axle if it has gone through a lot of miles.