second issue, i would check the coolant temperature sensor. if its bad, unplugged, broken wires etc it can cause flooding and stalling when warm. bad coolant temperature sensor could relate to problem 3 as well

Hi folks, so I was GIFTED a 1989 Maxima that runs absolutely fantastic BUT has a number of electrical issues. Sunroof, windows, digital dash, HUD, climate control. I'm used to dealing with older vehicles so I'm very out of my element. Fairly confident I can figure out the misc. windows but getting into the dash is somewhat intimidating. Any help is appreciated.

all of those arent working? try checking fuses if they all crapped out at once

Hi, Does anyone know why my passenger side rear door window rolls down by its self now in my 1992 nissan maxima? You can just push the window down and get into the car. It doesnt roll up and rolls its self down gradually while I am driving. Everytime I park the car I have to push the window back into the closed position my self.

you probably need a new motor. The big, final drive gear in the motor is made of 2 pieces of nylon (or something) bonded together by a rubber type material. This rubber type material tears free of the pieces and allows the gear pieces to "freewheel", allowing the window glass to move by itself.

can i Clean my pop charger with k and n air filter aerosol cleaner?

Can I message you a picture of my nissan, there's this thing that's connected to the intake manifold and it's cracked do to an accident, I read ended a Tahoe.

Please help me identify what part is connected to the intake manifold on the front, I don't know if that's good enough of a discription or not, I wish I could just post a picture. I really need to know what it is so I can replace it.

upload it to a image hosting site like photobucket, i can probably tell you what it is.

worst case just go to a junkyard and find a 3rd gen there and take the part off

From what i can tell by your description it's front part of your intake manifold. One end attches to the throttle body and the other to the accordian looking boot on your air intake. Is this the part your requiring? If so it's four bolts i believe and very easily removed and yes your best bet and price would be the scrapyard. Not the most likely part to need to be changed unless it's a situation like yours.

Yes you can use the K&N cleaning kit to wash/clean the filter on your pop charger. Just follow the directions on the kit when washing and oiling the filter.

What are the factory watt ratings for the speakers on the bose car?
The speakers in my car are after market, changed. I haven't checked the ones in the front yet, but the ones in the back are 450w each. Bass is good, but the front speakers have some lousy sound.

pretty sure you cant use non-Bose speakers with the Bose system

I'm surprised that you get any sound out of the speakers at all. Bose speakers are 1 ohm and aftermarket are 4 ohm.

I don't know what the wattage of a Bose system is, but it probably is less than 50 watts.

Anyone know which wire to cut to install a kill-switch for the fuel pump? I want to splice it from the wires connecting directly to the pump.

So my daughter had her 94 towed to my house and with weird sysmtoms then died , but said all the dash light started flickering and then died and now wont start . I checked for spark and has none ,replaced coil , still no spark maybe power transistors ? any suggestions appreciated

First, we need to know which engine the car has.

VG30 - single overhead cam engine, has a distributor and spark plug wires.
VE30 - dual overhead cam engine, has coil packs on each cylinder.

have to know if its a SE or GXE. if its a GXE it could be the distributor

A distributor go bad ? or the module , It does have 240k miles but it usually runs and drives great . Whats an easy test to single out the distro?

make sure youre getting power to the dizzy

So, I feel like my Maxima drives like it should have more power. Here's what I have done: New injectors and fuel pump, pressure is good at the filter. Had codes for and so replaced the knock sensor and the temperature coolant sensor. Fixed a vaccuum leak. In each case the car seemed to have better power like I expect only to return to less power the next day. So I am not sure what the computer is getting to make that happen. Am thinking possibly to check the ingnition coil. It passed emissions so oxygen sensor and MAF are ok. Seems like it is choking sometimes, but always starts right up and never stalls on me or anything. I know it isn't the SE model, but it seems to have to down shift a lot when I don't think it should (like if I'm going 20 and need to get up to speed limit of 40mph it wants to down shift to have the power to do that). I wouldn't think 160 HP would need to do that.

Last thing, in the mornings upon start-up it will start always, but when I barely tap the gas pedal the RPMs actually want to go down by about 500 RPMs for a bit until I press it harder and then they will shoot back up.

I looked on the FAQ page and didn't see anything. I'm baffled. A couple mechanics said it seemed to drive fine to them for a 22 year old car, but it only has 135,000 miles on it and shifts good and so I want to get it running well. Just seems under powered. May be in my head. Appreciate any help.

I went to the stickies to find the link on how to fix a unreliable clock. Craigs page is down..does anyone have info on how to repair the clock when its actin like it has a mind of its own?..or did i misunderstand the thread and i need to cut the two wires?..thanks

I think the two wires you read are for Illumination. You can cut either the red/yellow or black/red wire to disable it and keep it on high when you turn on illumination.


The fix is to re-solder all the joints and replace the bottom capacitor if it leaked, which is a 16V 100uF

Right on thanks jbbons25..i wish there were pics--not gonna lie i just got a soldering iron and dont have any experience. I know how to weld so my guess is it shouldnt be too tough if i research enough thru youtube vids

soldering is 1000x easier than welding, i can solder but cant weld for my life. just clean the tip, get the iron hot and let the solder run down onto what you want it on

Yea ive been lookin on youtube and it seems pretty simple..thanks for the help

So, I've swapped the engines and it fires up and runs but no power. I pulled the #2,4 and 6 injector wires and idles the same. I had all 6 injectors rebuilt as well. I unplugged the sub harness and tested the contacts with the engine running. I know from reading on this site that there are 3 hots and 4 pins ?!? Anyways, 1 pin has constant juice. The others are dead. No intermittent power that would signify juice going to the injectors intermittently for the compression stroke. Anybody have a clue here where I go from there!?!? help!

Hey so what type of solder wire would u suggest for this type of soldering?

Edit/Update: did the research and got all the tools/supplies. Even got an old mother board from a pc to practice on before i try it on my cc and clock

So I have a '93 SE model with the VE30DE engine and the fuel pump went out, so I replaced that and the fuel filter, but the car will occasionally die (the rpm will drop to zero and stay there with the rest of the car on) or idle weirdly. It'll drop down to about 500-700 rpm after a few minutes warming up or driving when I let off the throttle, but the car will shake and the engine bounce up 200 rpm then drop back down to 500-700 a second later. It ran fine before, without the feedback or rough idle, and I can't afford to really take it to a mechanic, unless absolutely necessary since I'm a high school student who pays for everything on the car. I'm thinking it might be the MAS or O2 sensor like what a lot of people say about rough idle, but I only know general maintenance, so I have no clue how to read if it's throwing off a code or anything. Could it be anything else?
Thanks

first thing i would do is check for codes, you have to do it the old school way and check for ECU flashes. otherwise you can try cleaning the MAF, and unplugging coilpacks 1 by 1 to see if unplugging one doesnt change the idle but checking codes is what i would be doing first

did the surging and stalling happen before you replaced the fuel pump or right after?

The surging and stalling started happening after I replaced both. Would you happen to know what kinds of codes, etc. that I should be looking for?

Go here for your Factory Service Manual:
http://http://car-service-manuals.com/catalog/nissan

Just pick your year and model and you have all you need to figure this out. Here's a few pages from my 91 VG that should be nearly the same as yours. The ECM or ECU or ECCU....I've heard it called many things....is accessed from the passenger side front seat behind the console. Here is where:



I have to get my head way under the dash to see both lights after you remove the trim piece covering the ECU. Here's some more pages to get you going:




To get the codes on mine you wait for both lights to blink 3 times. They will blink once, twice, three, four, five times but after 3 you turn the screw back counterclockwise all the way and wait.....the codes will then blink at you after a few seconds. Left light is 10's and right light is 1's. So 5 right blinks and 3 left is error code 53! Easy stuff.!

PLEASE NOTE THE PICTURE ABOVE DOESNT SHOW THAT PROCEDURE BUT YOUR FSM WILL!





Read your own FSM to be sure it's the same procedure and to help cement this into your memory. It will also help you start to navigate the 1300 pages that is your FSM!!!
Good luck!!! Hope this helps.

Dave.

Will do, thanks for the advice!

Not mine, but wanted to share this clean looking 91 for $500 because I know these are getting harder to find.



http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4731304258.html

fug and even no fender rust, thats a good buy

I love that red paint

It'd be awesome to somehow bring that thing into Ontario and be able to get it licensed .

Slowly build it into a top of the line gen 3 with all the neat features that gen had and keep it like a collectors item

Your inbox is full guy.

So I tried all the things suggested before, but the ECM won't throw any codes and there's no CEL. As far as the car is concerned, it's perfectly healthy. The only thing I can think of is that the MAF is dirty since a bad O2 sensor won't cause the car to stall. Fuel pressure seems fine (34psi, right?). The cars starts as it did before the original fuel pump failed (bought a delphi replacement, don't know if that makes any difference or not), the problems came after I installed the new pump. It will run perfectly when it's started cold, but the surging will come back after the car is at operational temperature while in Drive (the needle is in the middle of the C an.d H respectively, so that's what I'm assuming is operational at least), mostly when I apply the brakes and the rpm falls to about 6-700. It shudders when it accelerates too.

I'm confused, and almost s*** my pants since the car stalled in the middle of CA 101 at 65mph. Thank whatever's up there that I was able to pull over to a shoulder before anything hit me. Any second opinions? I love the hell out of the car since I grew up with it (my parents are the original owners from 1993, transferred the car to me a few years ago) and I do not want to get rid of it. Sentimentality is killing my wallet, and a few of my underwear.

1993 Maxima SE w/ VE30DE, w/ almost all original parts. 172k miles

Thanks for the help!

So I bought this car a year ago and have had problems all the way. Its an old car with a lot of wear and tare on it and everything I've learned about working on cars I've learned working on my old bucket. She's now got 294,300 miles on her. Today I hit the first snag I wasn't able to figure out or fix and I need help. I have limited funds at the moment and am trying to just make it to work for a few more days.

Now the problem is the car starts no problem, there is oil and coolant in it and has a brand new thermostat so the hit is finally working. But today at a stop light when I was at a dead stop the car started to bog then shake and sputter. I quickly got to work and shut the car off and noticed the coolant was leaking. I quickly fixed that then went in to work for about 8 hours. When I came out and started the car it started very loudly and idled high then went back to normal after a few seconds, I thought it was just because the coolant pressure needed to be reestablished. While driving when I hit the gas pedal the car would lag and then suddenly jerk in to a smooth acceleration and actually run better then it has in a long time, then quickly it would sputter lag and then run. Coasting it sputters none bug anytime I hit the accelerator at any sort of incline or from a dead stop I get the sputter then jerk in to drive and then as I slow or try and accelerate pass 40 mph the problem continues. I have had a problem with loss of power with the car since my pipe with the O2 sensor is rusted out and ticks but I've never had the car do this before. When I cut the car off the engine is not overly hot, (temp gauge is still busted), and it will sit in neutral and idle all day without a problem but once I cut it off and step out all I smell is sulferish gas type smell and from the under the hood I smell mostly gas. I am sorry for the book but I love this car and have been coming on here to read how to fix every little problem but this ones got me beat. So please someone help me I want my baby to make it to over 300k and she has it in her, I am pretty sure the engine is solid I know this has got to be a parts problem. I also tried two tricks to try and diganose the problem. Kept the car in neutral and reveed the engine and no sputter, then I held down the brake and put the car in drive and accelerated at a dead stop for about five seconds and the car shook and sputtered. So i think its the spark plugs but I am hoping nothing more serious. Does anyone know how to help?

-Codey

so youre getting the sulfur/rotten egg smell constantly? if you are, the cat converter could be nearly completely plugged. if it gets bad enough you can get loss of power and all those problems