what happens when it wont go faster than 35? just keeps revving or what? and yes, in the US 3rd gens have a lifetime seatbelt warranty. dont think anything else does[/QUOTE]

yeah it just revs and wont go faster that 35. I've been double checking to make sure i'm exactly on drive, and not half on 2nd or half on neutral or anything like that


**Edit**



problem has stopped. I think it was slipping into 2nd.

______________________________________________-


More questions.
1. -removed-


2. The previous owner had the security system disabled cause the alarm would randomly turn on through the night. I noticed two wire bundles hanging from under the steering wheel on the left near the foot rest and brake pedal. Is that whats hanging?


3. The driver side window doesn't roll up or down. Is there any guides on here on how to put the window back on the track so it rolls up and down again? When i click the button i can hear it trying to work but, nothing happens.

4. The electric door lock and unlocker won't work at all. Could that be from a blown fuse? Sorry if this is a dumb question. This is my first car, and first exp with one.

 

How much do you think I can get for a stillen lip kit? Still in box from like 9 years ago...?

 

whats going on guys i got a 91 vg max.. right now its a no start unless ether is used. before hand it would idle like it was gona stall couldnt rev past 2k in and out of gear. than it finally died. spark is there. brand new cap and rotor. fuel pressure is there. im lost. i cant remember if these cars hae problems with distributors and i cant remember if the dizzy controls fuel injectors. because like i said it starts on ether so im bankig on an injector problem. i need my daily back because my 240sx is killing me on gas. can anyone help at all. if to just put me in a dirrection it would be greatly appreciated.


thanx matt

 

1989 maxima. Just got it a week ago and I noticed the fans wont engage when hot, nor will they engage if I turn the AC or defrost on full blast. Tried to rule out the fans themselves by hooking a 12v source to their harnesses and both fans fired up no problem. Then went on (after reading so many posts on this forum) to the coolant temperature sensor. Unplugged its harness and both fans immediately came on, and the engine idle raised a bit and smoothed out, no missing or rich smelling. I figured it was just a shotty sensor so I ran to the parts store and grabbed a new one, installed it and hooked the harness back up. Fans still wont work, even at full operating temp and AC on while the idle is very rough, but if I unplug the harness from that sensor they once again come on.
I have searched through numerous online forums and have tried everything from pulling the relays, to messing around with the climate control. I haven't found a forum post yet where they refuse to come on unless the ECTS is unplugged. I'm almost tempted to just leave it unplugged, engine runs smoother and I don't have to worry about it overheating.
Anyone here seen this issue or know of anymore diagnostic checks I can do before I attempt to throw money at it?
Thanks
(btw I have also moved relays around (trying ones on something that I know works in place of the fans relays, and I have checked all of the fuses, both in car and under the hood)

 

theres two sensors, one for the temp gauge and one for the fans make sure you didn't replace the one for the temp gauge, I did that when I broke the one on my 240sx

 

Okay problematic 91 Maxima here. everything is stock but recently it sat for a few months so we replaced a good amount of the hoses and it ran flawlessly but 2 fuel injectors had bad orings so we replaced those. Now it runs but it is shooting white smoke and smells like gas vapor and the gas gauge drops insanely. Had a half tank ran it for 15 mins to find troubleshooting. came back to a near E tank and noticed a big wet stain on the ground and the smoke smelled like gas vapor. Videos Below

http://distilleryvesper5-9.ak.instag...1f9b71_101.mp4

and picture of the car its a VG30E http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram...0a1fbd4d_7.jpg

http://distilleryimage10.ak.instagra...0ae81dc4_7.jpg yes I replaced the missing hose at the bottom this is the most recent photo i have of it.

 

Not a complete noob, but this seemed like a noob question. Looking down at the fuel injection system from the front of the car, what is the Skinny vacuum hose that is coming out of intake/fuel injection top left I have that hose, but it isn't connected. Hopefully someone can help. Thanks

 

Damn that looks like a major leak. Most likely, as the injectors were being inserted into the rail, an o-ring must have pinched and created a leak. You may have to take out the intake and check which injector is leaking. When inserting the injector back into the rail, use a little bit of petroleum jelly around the o-ring and the insert of the rail so there's less chance of that happening again.

I believe the hose you're saying is the one that connects to the heater control valve located right on the center of the firewall.

 

Ok, then I have another hose that I connected to the heater control valve, and it comes from right under the heater control valve, and it is skinny, and short. you have any on that one? Thanks jjbons.

 

I posted a pic I took to help out a little. The red dotted hose should go from to top of the valve to the bottom. The blue dotted hose should go to the intake manifold as mentioned on my previous post. Are you talking about the red dotted one?

 

Long time lurker but I've only posted a few times (and I've learned a lot about the 3rd gens just from reading on this forum thanks guys). I have a few noobish questions I need help with. 1). I read on a thread that 3rd gens have lifetime warranty on the seatbelts, assuming this includes the automatic ones where could I call or go to get mine fixed my driver side belt doesn't move along the rail at all only if I slide it manually. 2). My door locks work using the switch on the door but they no longer unlock from the outside when I put the key in the drivers door and turn to unlock (only the drivers door lock itself unlocks not the rest of them. I tried to search the threads before asking but couldn't find my exact problem. Thanks in advance!*edit* I forgot to specify my car is the 91 SE.

 

as far as i know in the US all you have to do to get the lifetime seatbelt warranty is just go to the dealer and mention it, if they dont believe you its apparently in the owners manual that there is indeed a lifetime warranty

 

Okay guys, I have a mystery with my Maxima that I really need help solving. My car sometimes has a problem with starting. It always starts first thing in the morning, and sometimes I can go days or even weeks or months without it not starting. When it doesn't start, it makes no sound at all. All the lights will come on and the antenna and seatbelts will move, the battery is just fine. When I originally started having this problem, I was laying a screwdriver across the solenoid to get it to start. I used that trick for a few months before one day it stopped working completely. So I took the starter down to Autozone, had it tested, it tested fine there but there's also the fact that their machines aren't carrying the weight of a car behind them so its easier for the Bendix to pop out with the machine. So I bought a remanufactured starter from them, installed it and wouldn't you know it my car started right up. I should mention that everytime my car didn't start, later it would start like nothing ever happened, with various wait times. So I drove for maybe 2 or 3 months with no problems, and then one day I have the same exact thing happen. No start, no sound, nothing. That's when I started doing more research. I checked the ground wire, thinking maybe it was shorting out my solenoid, but that appears to be placed properly. I checked the relays, none are burned out and I'm almost positive they are still getting voltage. Just yesterday after not starting again, I removed the ignition control module and took it in to Autozone to be tested. Unfortunately they did not have to lead for my specific module. That sucked. I'm not sure if that could be the problem but I don't know how to test it otherwise, I don't know how to use an ohm meter to test it. The starting problem is very random, it's like it has a mind of its own. Sometimes it will start up again in 15 minutes like nothing happened, other times I will have to leave it overnight and wait until the morning again. Sometimes I can drive for hours and make a bunch of stops turning the car off and on multiple times before it finally doesn't start. Sometimes I can drive it two minutes down the street and park it, not even giving the car time to fully heat up, and then it won't start again. The only thing I haven't looked at it yet is the wiring going from where I put the key in, and the ignition coil. if anyone has any info they could be useful to me, I would greatly appreciate it. This is my daily driver and I don't really know a lot about cars, I'm just learning as I go. I do work for autozone now though :-)

 

Try another starter...can't hurt..

 

theres something called the shifter bushing, its on the shift linkage above the exhaust heat shield. years ago my 3rd gen did the same thing, started fine for months then sometimes i got lights and everything but no click. took it in to get it fixed, everyone on here said its probably the shifter bushing but they said no its the starter. went through 5 starters over weeks, finally when it acted up i tried starting it in neutral and it started. was the shifter bushing all along

could be whats up with yours, shifter bushing is 3 bucks from Nissan now i think and takes 10 minutes to replace. next time it happens to you, use the shift override button, put it in netural, put the handbrake on, and see if it starts. if it does, i bet shifter bushing

 

what does the shift override button look like? I don't think I mentioned mine is an automatic, does that matter? I've tried starting my car in neutral before to no avail, but I didn't know about any button. I've also tried rolling my car a few feet to see if I had a broken tooth on my flywheel but that never worked either.

 

yep the shifter bushing applies to the automatic trans.

the shift override button should be infront of the shifter itself, its a button you hold down to allow you to shift out of park while the key isnt in the car. otherwise if you press the brake pedal down you cant get out of park

if you couldnt start it in neutral before it might just be another bad starter, reman starters crap out again alot

 

hello im trying to put everything together for a engine swap. i want a vq35de and 6 speed manual in my 94 maxima. im just wanting someone who knows this subject very well to list for me every part and modification required to make this happen the best way possible and by best way i mean the easiest,cheapest way that will result in a sweet daily driver. thanks


and yea i seriously want to do this. ive had my max for 13 years and im giving it a complete overhaul.

 

Aaron with NWP swapped a VQ into a 3rd gen. theres alot of custom work and you have to change all of the wiring. you said easiest and cheapest way, a VQ swap into a 3rd gen is nowhere NEAR those 2 words. your time is best spent elsewhere on the car

 

Another noob type question, and thanks jbbons for all your help.

yesterday I was trying to ohm the injector that is in the center of the rail. I had difficulty doing that but I think i got a 12 reading on that, when I went to put the harness connector back on wires broke.

My question is which wire goes to which side of the connector? It is the middle injector on the rail, radiator side. I have an old haynes book that was made when the car came out, and if it was in there, I couldn't find it.

Also, it should be noted that taking that connector on, and off made no difference in the idling of the car, and that my max runs like it's lacking power until 2800 rpm, then it smooths out, until it shifts gears back up

Thanks in advance for help

 

i dont need to drive my maxima, ive got time to work on it, i just want someone who knows exactly what needs done to swap in a vq and 6 speed into a 3rd gen, an outline of all that needs changed. cause its been done before. atleast the engine, not sure about a 6 speed. i have some auto guru buddies that have done some pretty cool work to help me out and im a machinist so i think we can handle it. i just dont want to dig for what info i can find and try to wing it since the detailed info is out there.

 

you can search for Aarons info, there should be a thread on it somewhere. hes the only one to have done it, so youre nearly on your own for wiring and any other info

to me its just a wiring nightmare and a waste of time, you could turbo a VE or VG which over a dozen people have done and make more power than a VQ in the end

 

i like motor though ive owned and own a turbo car. i want the performance a vq will offer in every regard , power, mpgs, durability since its a stock/ near stock motor. ill try to track my info down from that guy, i have info from swaps in 4th gens and ive kinda got an idea to go on from those just changing some things for the 3rd gen car. thanks

 

Not sure if I should have edited my last post but since it is different, thought I would make a separate post.

Edit:I found a picture for the iacv. So I deleted this question.

 

I'm new to posting but have have been using forums for almost 10 years.

My 1990 Maxima SE is using about a gallon of coolant every 300 miles. I can't find any external leaks, it doesn't appear to be leaking into the oil and there isn't a big white plume of smoke from the exhaust. However, when I open the radiator cap and run the engine to temperature there is a continuous stream of tiny bubbles in the radiator, even after 30 minutes of bleeding.

I'm thinking that there is a head gasket leak, which is sucking in a small amount of coolant on the down stroke, then forcing air into the coolant on the compression stroke, hence the bubbles.

The car has 250,000 miles on it. At 170K the top of the radiator blew off on the highway, and the car overheated while I tried to change lanes and get off the road onto the shoulder. When I put in the new radiator, all the coolant emptied into the oil pan. I ran some sealant into the radiator and this fixed the problem up until now.

The car runs strong and doesn't overheat as long as I keep adding coolant. I will gladly replace the head gasket if this is the problem, but wanted to check the community for other causes/troubleshooting before proceeding.

 

Hey, what's the canister under the battery?

It has 2 vacuum lines going to it.

Both of the vacuum ports broke off when I was changing the vacuum lines. I plugged up the lines, but need to what this is so I can look into replacing it.

 

It's the charcoal canister for evap emissions. If you are required to do emissions, you will need to get that fixed by either re-attaching the ports with glue or replacing the canister.

 

Long time lurker, New poster. i know its may seem like a really stupid question but does anybody know where i might find an oil filter adapter for a 92 se with the dohc engine. In a fluke accident mine got broke and after three days looking ( stealership, chain stores, ebay, amazon, wreaking yards, ect) im starting to think i may have just broken the last one on the planet. this is my daily driver and i must have it for work so finding this part is my #1 priority. any and all help is appreciated thank you.

 

is this an adapter because Nissan discontinued that oil filter for VE? if it is, you can still get VE oil filters at Napa. if its some other kind of adapter im not too sure

 

No it is called an adaptor but it is the stock part, housing,piece that is bolted on the block extending out and down and the stock oil filter screws on the other end. I hit a parking curb with the bottom end of the oil filter and snapped off the pipe looking section that the oil filter actually screws on. It is such an oddball part to need that it has made it very hard to locate one. Everybody has one but who has an extra sitting on an old block somewhere? i hope this clarifies it.


i finally found one thanks anyway

 

Greetings all. My question is this, can anyone please post a pic of a grounded VTC Solenoid for a ve30de? I need to know what the "finished product" looks like so I can emulate it for my VTC clacking issue. I picked up the NTB document from the dealership but it didn't explain the grounding fix. Also, if there's anyone in the West Palm Beach area that wants to give me a hand, let me know! Thanks.

 

Greetings,
I am trying to source a Clutch type diff for my 2006 Sentra Spec-V Drive system (that is swapped into my 91 SER rally car).

Nobody makes one since the Trans comes with a Helical LSD. But in the dirt it's not a prefered diff to have.

So in my great searches I have come across the NISMO 38420-RS426US.
It's listed for a 93-94 Altima/Maxima. But then it lists the trans as (RS5F50A Transaxle only). I found that some Maximas were 29 spline in that year.

I have searched this thread to see that "The vg axles/spindles are smaller then the ve axles(29 spline vg/31 spline ve IIRC)"

My car is a 29 Spline axle setup. So I am looking to know if the RS5F50A is the 29 splined trans.

And if so if anyone might have a junk one kicking around. All I want is a diff to test fit and see if I can make it work in mine. Before I drop $600+ on a diff that I'm not sure if it will even work. I have called US-NIssan Motorsports for tech info but they are having trouble getting it and then I am asking about a swap they have never been questioned about.

Please help me find these answers and maybe if you can lead me to a source for a stock diff for cheap to free that would be appreciated. I look forward to the assistance.

Jon

 

Usually, the bubbling is caused by a bad water pump almost 90% of the time. I had a 92 Max VG30 and when it did that, it was the beginning stages of a bad water pump. The temperature will remain steady now, but if you wait too long, the car will start dumping water everytime you turn it off, and then the temp will go up. You will also have to start adding gallons of coolant. Make sure you change the timing belt while the water pump is being changed. The VG engine is one of the easiest engines to work on.

 

Ok, thanks. I failed emissions, so this may be culprit.

The canister was in bad shape when I removed, with big holes eaten away from battery acid, and the two broken vacuum leads.

I found one on-line for $130 including shipping and installed.

Will go to emissions this week.

 

Thanks, a water pump is a lot cheaper than a head gasket! And I need to change my timing belt soon, so it's two for one!

However, I haven't seen any puddles of antifreeze on the ground, or does it just seep out while I'm driving?

 

Depends. Most of the time the water will spill out after the car is shut off when the radiator is bubbling. It will usually stay cool while the car is in motion, but not all the time.

 

i would do a combustion gas test on the coolant in the system first, most of the time air appearing in the radiator is combustion gas. started getting air bubbles and pockets in both my Crown and Hilux and both times were caused by blown headgaskets

 

Update: thanks again, I passed emissions with flying colors today!

I think replacing the vapor canister was key to reducing my emissions.

 

Well I was looking for a third vehicle to play with a bit and do some daily driving and ended up with a 1994 GXE.

Problems:
Engine shakes - Fixed with new NGK plats and wireset, dist and rotor
Runs Rough - Code 51 on ECM and cyls 3, 5, and 6 were fouled rich on the old plugs. Cyls 3 and 5 both have red top injectors, other 4 looks original. Picked the car up for a grand and now getting set of new OEM injectors to replace. Car actually runs well enough as it is so really looking forward to when it's fixed. Parked until then mostly.
Suspension Noise - Left turns cause a metal on metal groaning sound as the wheel turns. No rubbing but if turned when in park the strut pops with the groaning. Still investigating.
Engine Sits Unlevel - Looks like the left side (pulley side) is sitting lower than it should. Suspect worn mount. Still investigating as the mount isn't easy to see in a garage with no lift. Advice appreciated.

Not much good to it yet. Motor and tranny are solid. 172k miles with regular oil changes, 4th owner. Has Olds wheels (2000-2005 model by the looks) but they look good so no complaints.

Learning all there is to learn regarding my areas of concern on the forums. Great help so far. Again, any advice is appreciated and look forward to chatting more as I dig in.

Kro

 

ok I just picked up my 93 maxima GXE 2 weeks ago. I had a 94 for 2 years and absolutly loved the car. Anyway 3 days ago I started having odd issues with the car.
First: the idle was really high, like 1500RPM's or so. I checked the car for vacuum leaks and found a few and fixed that, that fixed the idle...mostly.
Second: the engine will not allow me to accelerate for around 30-45 seconds after startup, however it only happens when warm/hot. if I attempt to accelerate too soon it will stall and flood.
Third: the engine temps are reading slightly above normal operating temps and the cooling fans are running almost non stop. my 94 would run in 120 degrees weather and never even think about kicking on the cooling fans.

Any help on this matter would be appreciated, I'm a delivery driver and I need my car for my job.