Cpettit91

Yes I am getting that smell. If I was to go under the car and smash a hole in the converter would that lessen the problem for a couple days until I can afford to straight pipe the car?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

the smell could be the problem (plugged converter) or could be unrelated. but yes you can remove it and gut it to see if that fixes the problem. might or might not

Cpettit91

Alright thank you Chrome. I have two more quick questions where is the pump located? And do you happen to know the size of the tool I am suppose to use to remove the spark plugs?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

spark plug sizes are 5/8 13/16 or 15/16. off the top of my head i cant remember what size VG spark plugs are. most generic tool sets come with both common sizes

which pump? if you mean fuel pump, if i remember right on 3rd gens you can remove them without dropping the tank by removing the rear seat cushion

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Your memory serves you correct. The fuel pump is below the rear seat cushion. Pretty sure the socket is 5/8 but dont quote me on that BKR6ES-11 are the plugs for the VG and the gap should be between 0.039"-0.043" or 1-1.1mm

Cpettit91

Thank you both. The car ran better today but bogged down at the same light as before more and more I am thinking its a fuel pump issue but I don't know. When I get paid Sunday I will just have to work on it. Thank you, you all were a lot of help I was completely lost on how to look at it. By the way I am having all these problems and the car isn't kicking out any codes is this normal?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

worst case maybe rent a fuel pressure gauge from a auto parts store

no codes is normal, 3rd gens rarely trigger the CEL. could be running like a 3 legged hamster in a rusty wheel and not trigger it

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Or a one legged man in an a$$ kicking contest. This is so true lol

If it's bogging down or rpm's drop when stopping maybe take a look to see if it isnt a vacume leak somewhere. Like chrome said get a fuel pressure gauge and check your fuel pressure first before changing out a fuel pump that may not need to be changed quite yet as they aren't exactly cheap.

White89Max

I recently bought a 89 maxima se 273,xxx. The guy I bought it from had the clutch go out and replaced it and the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Also the shifter bushing(that holds it off of the catalytic converter broke. I fabbed a bracket to hold it up but cannot get it into first. Second through the rest are fine and reverse is too. Any help appreciated. Also when I put it in what feels like neutral and let the clutch out it starts backing up??? Thanks

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sounds like somethings up with the shift linkage

White89Max

I messed with it a little last night and now I can only get it into third or fifth.

LLkoolJJ

iTrader: (1)

Hey i was curious if the vg and ve engines share the same alternator?..i took my old one to a shop to have it tested and the alt was bad. Went to jy and got one they said came out of a dohc (ve). When i went to install noticed the writing the jy did on the alt said sohc (vg) they both looked the same so i installed. Now im having problems with the batt charging up again.. O-i have the ve in my maxima.

Only problem is car-part.com only lists sohc alternators @ the jy's in my province (bc) no dohc.
So my question is can i use the sohc alt on my dohc maxima?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The parts book shows 2 different part numbers for the Maxima. Regardless of which engine I look up, both part numbers are shown. They are both Hitachi brand, the difference being amperage output. Hitachi model LR190-711 has a 90 amp output, while Hitachi model LR195-701 has a 95 amp output. Either one should work for you.

When you get a part from the junkyard, you have no idea how much life is left in it. It didn't work out for you this time. Try another alternator.

LLkoolJJ

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help! I think Ill have my old one rebuilt for roughly the same price as the jy one..hoping itll be a safer bet

RageKrane94

What's up everyone, I was looking through the 3rd Gen gallery and noticed a member with a roof spoiler. I believe it's blacksmax93 and if anyone has any idea where it came from I would like to get my hands on one if at all still possible, I've been searching for awhile now with no luck, thanks!

93VE30DE-TT

New to the forum here are 2 of my 3 maxima's both of these are 92 SE's ones auto and ones manual.

timelancer

Hello fellow Maxima owners. I'm in a bit of a bind. I have 1993 Maxima gxe I placed it into Diag. mode and pulled codes 45 and 55. I checked the sticky for the codes but the page no longer exists, could someone please tell me what these codes are?

93VE30DE-TT

skater_20922

hey guys new to forum i have a toataled 91 se vg of course auto. and a 92 se 5spd. it has a constant oil leak and i cant figure out where its coming from any help or suggestions on common oil leaks. looks like it is coming out of top of oil pan gasket maybe but ??? everything on passengerside under the car it soaked in oil

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

pressure wash the entire underside, let it dry, run the engine for 20 minutes, see where its leaking

MAX901

Thanks for your help in advance.....I have a 91 SE manual trans. when I try to start it i get one click. Battery is at 12.4v all connections at battery and starter checked and cleaned and I couldn't find any fuses blown. with headlights on when trying to start they stay bright without dimming. Tapping the starter when someone is trying to start has no effect.......what should I check next?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If that click is coming from under the hood - i.e., the starter, then the starter is no good. Just because you tapped on the starter doesn't guarantee that the starter is OK.

Cpettit91

I am back again. My 94 maxima gxe is still having the same problems, it runs fine till it warms up, most of the time, but once it's warm it likes to jerk and act like it's not getting enough gas. There's no blue smoke or foul smells, so I am under the impression the fuel filter is clogged or my fuel pump is about out. But before I spend anymore money I'd like to know where my diagnostic computer is and how I would run it to check for the hidden codes so I can be sure. I'd appreciate the help and thank you in advance.

-CP

Bandy17

I have a 92 SE. And for some reason, I've had the alternator replaced twice and my battery is good, but whenever I get my car to start, nothing else will come on. Except for the headlights and the battery light. I'm not sure what the problem is. And also randomly the top hose on my coolant tank was randomly disconnected and it leaked all of my coolant out on the ground. I'm not sure where it connects to. So, if anyone has some type of idea what could be wrong and or what that hose could connect to, don't hesitate to say anything. Thanks

RicoSuavey

Can 2000 Federal Warpspeed y pipe fit without headers?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

No. The body design of the 3rd gen and the 5th gen are different so the curves and angles won't line up. And let's not mention that the engines are different so that the flanges of the y-pipe won't meet up with the exhaust manifolds.

And if you get headers for your 92, you still won't be able to use the 2000 y-pipe.

ProgPete

Hi
I live in England and wondered if anyone knows of a reliable parts or breakers in Europe.
I need a rear left window regulator and motor, an front indicator and most importantly a column switch that controls the headlights as I can't switch them off ! I beleive the part number for the latter is either 2554097e11 or 2556097e11.
Many thanks for your help in advance
Pete

1994 Maxima J30

Failing that a reputable Canadian or US supplier

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You can buy all of these from the aftermarket. Beck/Arnley actually makes the headlight stalk. It's Beck/Arnley # 2011995.

What exactly do you mean by "front indicator" - is that one of the bumper or corner lights?

RockAuto.com is very reputable and ships worldwide. You can get everything you're looking for through them. I just priced them, and you can get the headlight switch and window regulator and motor for 88 GBP total shipped price (I used a London postal code as an example as I'm not sure where in England you're located exactly). Not sure what you meant by "front indicator" so I wasn't able to price that for you.

*edit* or how about straight from eBay?

Headlight switch:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-1994-...item2ee00de574

Window regulator and motor:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Rear-L...item339e4cbc6b

I just pulled those from the eBay UK site, so not certain about shipping policies/prices from certain sellers although I assume if they show up on eBay UK they're actually available?

ProgPete

Thanks very much for your quick help.
The indicator I referred to is actually the Side Marker Lamp Assembly.
I checked out the eBay links which seem more xpensive than Rock.auto-I think I'll order from there, thanks
On a separate note, now I know I can fix up the car, one of the headlights suffers from moisture ingress. I replaced this with another used unit, and the same thing happened to that too. Was there a rubber seal around the headlight originally or any other ideas?
Thanks again

ProgPete

Well nearly ordered the headlight/indicator stalk but on my car it is on the right of the steering wheel, and not the left as pictured on rockauto. Also the cover of my side marker lamp assembly is completely clear, but the one on their site has a yellow part to it.
sigh..
At least I can get the window regulator I hope
Pete

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

www.partsouq.com, theyre based out of Saudi Arabia and have a huge warehouse of Japanese parts. ive myself used them for years for my Japanese vehicles especially JDM and my friends have started using them as well without problem

Krill over there knows his stuff, couldnt find brake pads for my Crown from the cutout diagrams on their site and within 3-4 days he emailed me back with the correct part numbers, had the parts here in Canada within a few days

aggarwal18

Hi All

I am new to this forum. So really do not know much about the posting rules.
I just replaced my AC compressor with the high pressure hose for the power steering on my 2005 Nissan Maxima. After maybe a day I was running low on fuel(the low fuel light was on) and when I tried starting the car it stalled. I turned off the AC and then started the car it started and then I could turn the AC on but the check engine light came on. I went to advance auto parts to see the codes and they gave me 3 codes
P0340
P0726
C1120

I am not sure if it is something that the repair shop messed up or what is going on. Any help on this topic will be really helpful.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You're posting in the 3rd gen (model years 1989-1994) section. Not that we don't want to help you, but you would be much better off posting in the 6th gen section

Jomahu

Hello guys

I have been researching about injectors and I think RB25 (side feed) or P1 VG30DE(TT) will works on 3rd Gen VG30E fuel rails (VG30DE(TT) P2 are differents). What are you running in boosted applications without replacing the intake with Z31 and top feed rails?

Thanks in advance,

Mel Tome DaRaCeR

yea just finishing putting a i35 dash in my 2000 maxima and was wondering if anyone has done this and if so what to do about the 5 wire plug to 4 wire plug for the clock????????????

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

For a quicker response you may want to post your question in the proper 5th gen section. You are posting your question in the 3rd gen section. Im sure someone in the 5th gens can help you. Good luck and welcome.

bgrass1234

I have a 89 maxima manual. Problem I'm having is intermittent. First happened after coming out of the grocery store. It started fine, would not rev past 2000, tach needle jumping around. Power was fine up to 2000, so I was able to drive it home. Got the kids in the house and came back to mess with it. Started up and was giving it throttle under the hood and it seemed to rev higher unit it hit the "rev limiter". Got in the car and it was reving to 3500 - 4000. Checked all the connectors I could, nothing was getting better. Had other stuff to do and I can drive it fine how it was, so left it to mess with later. Next morning to take the kids to school, car ran fine, would rev smooth to 6000 and power was fine. Did notice at times over the next few days, It would have the "rev limiting" problem at around 3500 - 4000 and it would just go away after driving for a while. Took a trip about an hour a way and car drove fine. After sitting in car to eat with it off, the car started really hard, had to pump gas pedal to get it going and it was running rough at idle. Since other times it seemed to clear up after driving a bit, I limped it around the parking lot for a while and it improved some till I could get going fast enough to get on the road. Limped it for about 20 minutes on back streets till it finally would rev to around 3000, which is enough for me to get on the freeway. After running on the freeway, it finally cleared up again after another 10-15 minutes running on the freeway. Car was good then for two days, till leaving the grocery store again. Hard start again, rough idle and I couldn't get it to improve by running it. Finally had it towed home. After the tow and was going to move it by limping to a better position in my driveway. Started the car and it was running fine again. Went to mess with it today and it's running fine. Are there any ideas or good places to start with diagnosing this guy?
Sorry for the book and thanks in advance.

LLkoolJJ

iTrader: (1)

So my hvac fan in my 92se is on once i turn the key to acc and wont turn off until my key is in the off position--anyone know if its the resistor or something like the climate control glitchin out? Ive read in the fsm something about a climate control diagnostics procedure but from what i briefly read it doesnt include my problem.
If i missed it and anyone know where to find it in the fsm or knows what the problem may be please let me know--thanks all

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

To start with, does your car have to manual or the auto climate controls? The built-in diagnostic is only for the auto climate controls, the one where you have a digital readout of the temperature setting. If you do have the auto climate controls, I would run the self diagnostic. I believe that section 4 of the test checks fan response.

See page 73 in the link below:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1994/HA.pdf

If the blower motor resistor was shorted, it could be giving you your problem. You would have to take it out and check it with an ohmmeter. If you have manual climate controls, the fan switch could also be the problem. While this is also possible with the auto climate controls, I cannot recall anyone having this problem.

A word or two of warning. The manual controls use a part called a blower motor resistor, while the auto controls use a part called a fan control amplifier. These parts do the same job but they are not interchangeable with the other control system.

If you replace one of these, DO NOT have the part hanging out by the wires and turn the fan on. This part generates an enormous amount of heat and must be mounted in the air duct or it will burn up after a very short amount of time.

LLkoolJJ

iTrader: (1)

Hey dennismik thanks for the awesome response--havent been able to reply til now

So i have auto climate control--i did the self diagnostics test and everything seemed to work fine. Although there was a code for 25 (sunload sensor) mind you i was doing the diagnostics while its dark. Ill dig a little deeper into the link you sent--thanks a lot for that btw!
It still blasts the defrost when the key turns. Ill keep looking but wanted to thank u for the insight.