sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

holy **** i really ran outside to see how that would look if the battery is switched then u could use a bigger tube and filter and there is way less piping from the filter to the TB and that setup would clear the way for a turbo (and everybody likes turbo)
Thanks for the advice and someone gimme a dam write-up im a noobie wat do u expect me too start inventin **** now

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ya man get to it. that's now legends are made. i don't know of anybody that's swapped the battery and intake actually.... prolly because it would require a little bet of metalwork to support the battery properly. turbo'd 3rd gens USUALLY relocate the battery because even with any sort of moving-around, the turbo takes up more room than you'd think.

anyways, there probably aren't any writeups for that on here, due to that fact. it's not to say it can't be done, and is a bad idea, it's just that people usually don't consider that to be worthwhile for how much effort it entails.

NewMaxr

Thanks man.
Now does anyone have any suggestions on a rim size that would look good for my 94 max?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

15-17" all look pretty good. I personally wouldnt go over 16 unless i were to get a bbk, but thats just a personal opinion (and I actually like the 16's i have)
there are plenty of people who go bigger, but you have to decide for yourself.
check this out:http://gregg-henry.com/gallery/g35-18s
tripplegmax put some 18" g35 wheels on his 3rd gen and it looks pretty impressive. quite a few people wanted some after they saw them on a 3rd gen.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

and please watch the caps, I usually do not help people WHO USE CAPS LOCK!!!(its shouting on the internet)
btw, I searched a bit last night on brake upgrades, and there is a hella lotta suff on here. might wanna scan the "Advanced Suspension, Chasis, and Brakes" forum here (http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=68)

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

QFT

3g94MaxGXE

I'd kill for the G35 rims if I knew the ride quality wouldn't be crap with them. I am with you guys at this point not wanting to go over 16"

SHIFT_maxboost

iTrader: (13)

i have 17's on mine. havent gotten around to a suspension upgrade yet. but i would say with just the 17's, burnouts are better and handling is better. plus it looks like i can still take a 2 inch drop with them. all i need is some spacers cuz i have to run a stagard tire size to clear the rear strut. 225/45/17 front and 215/40/17 rear. my rims are 17 by 8.5

gentlejax

I am buying a hooptie tommorrow for $800. its a loaded out 93 maxima..pretty good shape ..tranny was rebuilt recently and now the current owner tells me it will not move when shifted from P to D.

you have to put it in 2 and then it will run...then you can put it in D and it still runs. Only from when car is initially in P will it not move..

I had a link from another forum that said it was some bushings or some other cheap parts..

can I get a hand to get this fixed?

it is only a $800 car but it only has 147K supposedly and it actually a decent car.

not my first car by no means ...more like 15th..but my first max...I have owned 2 240's and 2 300's...

this is just mean to get to work and get better mileage...

thanks

3g94MaxGXE

Sounds similar to my transmission quirk. My car doesn't like to be shifted into drive so unless you tap it back almost to 2nd (as far as you can get from neutral without holding the button) it sounds like yours is worse off but I have a feeling its the same cause and between you me and the rest of maxima.org I do no understand transmissions, I understand engines and thats about it. My dad tells me it's linkage and thats what I go with and honestly don't care because it works perfectly if your hand is programmed to let off the button and pull back till it clicks.

Also for the guys that have been putting up with my muffler hunt...I've lost it. What would have been a $60 used muffler (worth $270 msrp) turned into this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...m220245742088&
which is ridiculous since for $30 extra (give or take) you can buy a brand new one off amazon and the auction ain't over. So maybe I'll amazon it one of these days.

Todallyluny

Hello gang. As some of you may have read, I am working on restoring order in my 93 Maxima. My tail lights work sometimes, and my dash lights are not working at all. The tail problem seems to be in the combo switch. Sometimes I turn the lights on, and the tails light up. I can turn them off at the switch, and sometimes they come back on. Another problem I have is the right headlight HI BEAM. I thought it just needed a new element because it worked on LOW BEAM. Last night, just out of curiosity, I turned on the HI BEAMS, and the right headlight came on! When I got home, I looked back there and the tails were on. Turned the switch off and back on... no tails. The only thing that changed was the position of the switch. No sign of dash lights during any of this.

I am thinking that I want to replace that switch.

I bought a shop manual, but have a question that it did not address. When I go to digging into the steering wheel, how should I address the airbag? I don't want it to go off in my face.

Any thoughts, tips, or advice anyone has on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help.

Luny

Todallyluny

I have been working on the electrical system on my 93 Maxima. I bought a factory shop manual, and have a question about interpreting some of the information. There are diagrams for switches and how they make up - contact to contact. In the manual, they are laid out like a block diagram, or a truth table. The switch I am interested in, at the moment, is the combo light switch. I feel this is where one of my problems is, and want to investigate it a little closer.

The diagram shows OFF, 1st (position), and 2nd across the top first row. Below that has 3 groups A,B, and C. One group for OFF, 1 for 1st, and 1 for 2nd. It has the numbers 5 thru 12 down the side. When crossing 5 with OFF-C, for example, there is a circle. I'm guessing that that indicates continuity between these points.

Are the contacts labled somehow directly on the switch? In other words, will I be able to reach down and identify the OFF-C and 5 contact set?

Thanks for your help interpreting the wiring diagrams and the switch.

Luny

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's instructions in there about how to deal with the airbag... you have to disconnect the battry for like 15 minutes before removing the steering wheel and stuff i think. iirc it's in the EL section? amirite?

as for the combo switch, i've got a working spare if you want.

Todallyluny

as for the combo switch, i've got a working spare if you want.[/quote]

Thanks for the reply. Does the problem I am describing sound like a combo switch fault?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the way the little table works is it shows you what the continuity is for each possible combination. off = off, 1st = parking lights, 2nd = headlights. A = standard highbeam, b = lowbeam, c = flash-to-pass highbeam

look at which pins are are connected in various situations. check for resistance on each possible circuit in each possible switch position. if you get open circuits where you shouldn't, or abnormally high resistance, then you have a bad switch.

whattingh

The removal of the air bag is in body (BF) section.

3g94MaxGXE

What does everyone think about electrical crap on ebay and stuff?

I've always though that changing a few wires around, buying spark plug wires with capacitors (*cough*nology*cough*), buying spark plugs with capacitors (*cough*pulstar*cough*), voltage stabilizers, etc. Didn't do anything as far as performance goes.

Still, I'm pretty sure I've seen some guys here with ground kits and I saw a video review with a voltage stabilizer and a voltmeter (which pretty much was saying that it won't make a difference without loud music, HIDs and etc (none of which I have...except possibly music but I wouldn't classify it as that since I don't even have an amp.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

spark plugs and caps? wtf are you talking about?

the only time i see caps used (aside from a circuit board) are caps used for amps in audio. I haven't ever seen sparkplugs or their wires with capacitors, and do not see how they could possibly relate to the audio stuff you mention.
(this could be my ignorance)

Gohilla

n/m

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

hi im lookin 2 turbo my max i got a 90 vg30 gonna buy a jdm motor. with some fabs can i use the turbo 300zx manifold setup please help thanks

~V~

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

the 300 uses the same motor/heads, so the mani's, (intake, exhaust) bolt up. whether the intake would fit properly, I dunno, but I recall reading about using the exhaust manis to start a turbo setup.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know anything about transmissions on this site?

i know i can switch me 93gxe over to manual but does anybody know of a better transmission to use other then the 93 SE5spd there seems to be nobody swapping out the tranny (which is apparently built for a 4cyl) for something more powerful watabout manual vavle bodies cvt transmissions or even just one buit for a V6 has anyone ever swapped a transmission with another car and if not do you know how the hell i would find which ones match up

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

about the only way to find out if one would fit is to try.
another option would be to make a new case for some other guts to fit into, but that kind of project would require more money and resources than nearly anyone on the 3rd gen side of things to be able to accomplish.

mattyd

Hi gang

I'm part-way down this troubleshooting and I need some advice for the next step.

The other day my 93 Maxima SE (VG30DE) starting puttering. After some work I found a fouled plug and replaced them all. Still puttering, I unplugged the ignition wires while running until I found that cylinder 2 isn't firing. I switched the ignition coils around and it's not the coil, so I'm thinking it's the wiring/electrical. Also, rotating the crankshaft by hand had all the injectors making noise, so it's not that.

In short: I've got a problem between my ignition coil harness and something, where should I be looking now/how do I test this out?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

first, the engine is a vE30de
the injectors shouldn't/wouldn't make any noise if you are turning the crank by hand. they are only activated by current running to them, so the only way to test is to make sure they ohm out correctly. not saying it isnt a coil issue, but the injectors aren't mechanically activated.

MaxZap

was wondering how hard it would be to cut the WW kit to look more like the front end of the r33 skyline?


WW kit


r33 skyline



they share similarities but can the WW kit be cut to look more like the r33?
or better yet can the kit be cut (assuming its fiberglass) because i never cut fiberglass or urethane (or w.e) before i dont know if it cracks or what not....

Edit: i mean the big black space one the r33 (thats the look i want)

3g94MaxGXE

Fiberglass and stuff can be cut, though I'm not quite sure how well it would work on a body kit since if you cut out the center piece you might have holes or something where some of the protruding parts are. Not to mention you gotta wonder how well a cut body kit will hold up to wear and tear.

mattyd

That troubleshooting I did was straight out of the FSM. There was current running to them, the ignition was in the 'on' position. I have to assume the ticking I heard as the crank angle sensor went round was the injectors firing. No?

MaxZap

couldnt i just re-apply fiberglass and maybe bondo over top of that to strengthen it + sanding a little.

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

yes u can cut out a center piece of only the ww kit cuz its fiberglass and jus fill the holes wit fiberglass i did it on my old body kit it came out realy nice i had the same one. u can fill little spots wit jus fiberglass resin and its all sandable so u can do it all wit no bondo

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

but will the motor mounts get in the way of the turbo or downpipe

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

no, because it will require a custom exhaust system to be built (at least to the cat), so those worries are inconsequential.

Gohilla

ok, the max i just bought has some weird *** problems....the original alt died on the previous owner, but before it did, all of the lights got REALLY bright, i got the car, replaced the alt, and noticed that the lights were unusually bright as well.....brand new alternator.....i was thinking.....i have pretty bad luck at times, but i really dont think its probable that the new alt has the same problem.....everyones like "voltage regulator, voltage regulator" im thinking the problem might lie somewhere within the wiring, there is a 3 wire plug that goes into the alternator, the main +12 and the ground that connects to the alt body, can someone look at there service manual and see what the wires in the 3 wire plug go to? the plug is for the regulator correct?

i tested the alt output and its shooting out 16 volts.....WAY too high, would explain the uber bright lights..... but under what cicumstance would the alt put out 16v? i know one of the wires going to the regulator has to monitor battery voltage, and keep t in range.... but which one?


sorry for the continuous run on sentance, and bad spelling/grammar......its 3:30 am.....lol

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

first thing i think of is to get the battery tested, and test for large drains that shouldnt be. do you have an amp hooked up?

edit: did you get a new alty from nissain or a big auto parts chain? reason I ask is most of the chains rebuild them, and the voltage regulator is bad on the "new" one. take it back and get another. if you search, you will see people have had bad experiences with remans, although some people will say they are fine, if you dont mind replacing every few years. remans can last a long time, but not always.

drewgarrett

Hello Maxima gang. I'm a potential Maxima owner and need you guys' opinion on my potential Maxima. It's a 1991 Maxima SE with 124k miles. The injectors were all replaced in the last 10k miles, timing belt was done at 80k, transmission shifts out just fine, the interior is fine. The power steering leaks, the paint is fading on the hood and front and rear bumpers, and needs new tires. It's a champagne color. The asking price is $1700. Does that seem like a solid buy? What things should I be wary of? This is a timing BELT- not timing CHAIN motor, right? I'm interested a reliability, decent gas mileage, and LONGEVITY. Not racing and performance mods, etc. Thank you guys for your opinion.

disgruntled

iTrader: (7)

see if you can bargain it down to around 1300 or 1500, then you would have a deal. Keep an eye out for transmission if its auto. You really have to drive the car around for abit in order to be sure. Things you should be wary of is the amount of rust on the rear wheel well, just lift up at the corners of the rear seat, both sides, and you will more than likely see rust, it's just a matter of how bad. On the plus side, you can use that as a bargaining tool.

Also, ask for proof of injector replacement, timing belt replacement (your car is a timing belt). Power steering leak might be due to a leaking high pressure hose, check to see where the source of the leak is coming from. Check for any loose-ness in steering, that might indicate a worn tie bar. Also, if you happen to drive over bumps, listen for clunking sounds, which might also indicates worn control arm bushings. Look under the car at the axle boots to see if they're torn. So on and so forth.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

also, consider the tasks that need looking after in the next 15k miles. timing belt, tires, the power steering issue. you didn't say which tranny it was, but the autos are kinda weak and I have heard of them to start dying at about 160k(some are stock and over 250k). the manuals are fun, and you only have to worry about the clutch/system. there is a recent post about replacing the timing belt/stuff, so go and scan thru this link.
tires are an issue,and can cost over 400 to replace.
you didnt say where the car is, so examine the body for rust. primarily around the left rear seat belt mount (by the gas cap) since it can be a serious issue, and there has been a recall for it.

umm, what else? power window regulators are a common issue, so make sure all 4 roll down, make sure the sunroof opens/closes.
exhaust studs, count 'em, make sure there are 12 total (I think), or you will need to replace them soon.
motor mounts, make sure the engine doesn't shift alot when revving the engine quick.

this falls under maintenance, but vacuum lines checked for cracks, rot, etc. cheap to fix.
paint is an option for you. that champagne is a sexy color, but you should decide whether or not a good respray would be worth it. it could just be buffed out, depending on how bad it is.
all in all, 1700 sounds a little steep, as I believe internetautomar would attest (has bought more cars than anyone I know!)

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

if you got power steering problems your probably gonna have to replace everyhting all at once as soon as one part fails the rest will follow it was about $800 for me done peice by peice so dont let him say "its only one part thats like $100" check ball joints and cv shafts too it will feel like the car has never had its tires balanced if there broken

NissanZealot

Anyone able to give some feedback on the e36 headlight conversion? What all is necessary? And what years of e36 headlights can you use? Even some redirection is appreciated.

whattingh

this forum has a good search function, try it out sometime.
here is two write ups of e36 lights:
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/tko/bmw_conversion/
http://www.geocities.com/bmwconversion/