KillaKarebear

I have a set of rotors and i dont know if there for the front or the rear. Is there a difference? how can I tell? thank you in advance for the help

whattingh

Front disc is ventilated where as rears are not.
front rotor look similar to this

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

what size are the hex on the throttle body?
93 se

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

let's pretend i have less than 15 posts

do all 3rd gen M/Ts have it where the shifter flops to the 1/2 gate but requires force to move to the 5/R gate? my friend's ford has equal effort to either side (feels like it's centered by a single check ball which is pushed in to move left OR right), but on my shifter, the "check ball" sensation is only when moving it right, and the return spring softly pulls it back to the center from the left... my other one (the 89) is the same way. so that's normal for our cars, or i have 2 wonky trannies?

whattingh

It is so call called warning effect for reverse. It is to help reminder you that do do not accidentally put it into reverse. Some cars, like nissan, have a reasonable tension, others like older opel's had a small little ring you on die gear stick that you had to lift and VW you had to push down and then sideways to get reverse. This it specially needed for car like vw and opel who's reverse is next to 1st gear.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well, i meant side-to-side.. i knew about the reverse lockout.. that keeps you from going from 5th straight back into reverse. it's just weird, i've never been in another stick car where centering force was not identical on both the left and the right. my shifter is kinda stiff (ball is dirty and needs to be cleaned and re-lubed) so the thing with it is that it actually DOES NOT return from the left at all.... but returns very rapidly from the right.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

anybody?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

6mm, I think all the VE hex bolts are 6mm

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

sorry, man, I wanted to answer this morning, but had to be sure before I posted(had to work, and "tested" on my to and from...). my shifter returns to the 3/4 neutral position, and has a tiny bit of tension into the 1/2 neutral. 5/R requires a tad more effort to shift into, but it isn't any more than the other manual trannies I have driven.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ok so i guess that's just the design then. on my 89, it returns from either side, just snappier from the right, and lazier from the left.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

what causes the return, a spring on the shifter side?(sorry, too lazy to browse the fsm...) perhaps its the age/usage of the parts, people tend to use 1-4 more than 5/r. or as you said, design. I noticed it too, but didn't think much of it.(btw, I think this conversation has gone too far in the noob thread...)

3g94MaxGXE

Anybody know of any good plug wires for the Maxima? Preferably blue

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ngk makes blue ones

3g94MaxGXE

Where'd you buy yours at?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's my parts car motor (soon to be my DD car's motor) and they were already on it when i got it.

3g94MaxGXE

If they are in good condition....how much do you want for them?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you'd be far better off getting a set new than paying shipping from me... the end difference would MAYBE be $10 for a set of wires whose mileage i don't even have a clue about.

3g94MaxGXE

Yeah, only problem is I can never find what I want around here, couldn't even find a coolant temperature sensor at Autozone and they sell duralast wires and maybe one or two other brands of crappy wires. Then I found some blue Accels at Advance but they weren't application specific from what I could find. I'd rather have a brand I trust (NGK) with a bunch of miles on it that looks to be in good condition than cheap acdelco wires that my dad likely was the one to install with at least a good bit of use.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you can definitely find the right wires, I just don't know where to get them from. NGK wires aren't some elusive limited-production delicacy... they're readily available, i just happen to not know who sells them, is all.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

just gotta know where to look
I am sure there are cheaper places with the same parts, but, just off the top of my head, I knew summit has a bunch of stuff for cars, but their prices can be beat.

3g94MaxGXE

Alright I bookmarked it, strangely enough I don't recall finding those on summit when I looked for everything available for the Maxima a few weeks ago, oh well my bad. I need that dang y pipe before I spend $75 on a set of wires though.

edit: Anyone know if this is legit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...ayphotohosting
It's a good price and everything but I've never seen a FSTB that claims to fit a 89-99 and an I30.

Liquidnails

My Max has been sitting for the past 6 months, with very little fuel in the tank and no battery. Within the next few days I will be able to get her back on the road. Is there anything special I should do or watch out for? I will add fresh fuel, check all the belts and tire pressures, and change the oil/oil filter and air filter/fuel filter once I get home.

Thanks for any input.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

make sure the distro cap has no condensation in it, not that it would. also check plug wires on both ends for corrosion, green crap, or condensation (those first two being for VGs), battery cable corrosion, fluid levels all around, look for dry-rot of your wiper blades, and make sure all your windows and head/taillights are clean and clear. should take about 10 minutes, depedning how dirty she is.

Setol One

I just installed some new ignition wires and a distributor cap on my 90vg5spd the old one had no brand or mfg anywhere on it, it just said "made in italy"
anyway the 2 rear bolts on the dist. cap weren't being used because the bolts had been broken off in the aluminum distributor housing allowing only the front bolt to hold it in place, barely.
I had to drill them out all I had was a metal bit about 0.5mm larger than the diameter of the broken bolts no left twist/reverse bits or easy outs I used a punch on the end of each broken bolt to guide the bit but I still managed to cut into the aluminum just enough to make the holes oval and eliminate any of the tread, I used some bolts, nuts and rubber washers for them I wasn't sure how tight they should be so I used my finger to hold the nuts until they spun.
my concern now is there's about 2mm of slack that I can twist the dist. cap in either direction now, atleast it is seated more properly which is a lot better than the old one which had warped, cracked and had been accumulating dirt right?
it seems to be running smoother and feels like it has more hp, are there any potential problems that I should be concerned about?
if anyone is interested in the parts I bought here is the link they seem to be a good quality for the $

Ignition Wires: http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0
Dist. Cap: http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0

Edit: I bought the Omnispark 7mm silicone wires and the BWD Dist. Cap.

I appreciate all the info possible.
Thanks!

240sx Jock

Was wonderin where if possibly anywhere that I can locate a stillen kit for a '92 maxima?

And why cant I post a topic in the third gen forums?

And is there a way to make this kit fit on a '92 maxima?
http://www.ionicdynamics.com/1997-99CFKIT.html

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA


you need 15 posts to start a new thread.(not to bash, but usually noobs post questions about stuff that has been discussed to death, and do not use the search function.

that kit can be "made to fit," but the time and effort put into it, you could get the kit one-offed for roughly the same price(assuming your, and whoever you can get to work with cf well, time is worth anything)

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/
Both the CTS and NGK wires are there

Setol One

I've had to unlock my max from the passenger side for awhile now otherwise the alarm will go off when i open it from the drivers side it's a pain in the a$$ but i've gotten used to it anyone know how to fix it?
and another question having my cruise control disconnected and an aftermarket steering wheel affect anything?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the only thing that removing cruise control affects is your ability to use cruise control.

dunno about the lock thing... i usually use the keypad b/c i have a GXE

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

your sensor on the drivers door lock rod is probably mis aligned

240sx Jock

Thanks for the advice man!

Setol One

i'll check that out, thanks

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

do the turbo manifolds for a 4th gen maxima fit for a 3rd gen dohc ve30de

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

do you know of any manifolds that would work for that car for a turbo or anything that would work?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

all will require fabrication of something.

elSmacko

Hi,

I just used the search function to no avail. I need control arm bushings for front suspension for a 94 GXE. I found some older posts 'noltec' about it but nothing current. Anything domestic? I found a front bushing, but the back seems to be non-existant.

Thanks.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

www.internetautosupply.com aka membername "internetautomar" has all that stuff.

~V~max

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks that sux its for my friends max and he jus got it priced at 5 grand 2 make the manifolds thanks though

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

$5000?! that's a grand theft right there!! he better be making 1000HP for that kind of money.