brettw903

They are bose speakers, so what size would that make them

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

most people make adapter plates to put 6.5s. I know that I did, and it doesnt take too long to do. they can be made of plywood, and cut with a jig-saw.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

6x9's in the front im pretty sure its smaller in the back though dont be afraid to got a little creative my swap from bose to pionneer is still the only mods i neva look back on

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

NO, it's 6x9 in the rear and the fronts are 4" or so on a Bose equipped car.

brettw903

I'll just break out the dremel til the 6x5's will fit

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

6x5?? you mean 6x9? or 6.5"?

3g94MaxGXE

I used 4x6s like the active system had stock, definitely glad I didn't use 4x 6.5"s cause my head unit puts out a heck of alot of bass from the rear speakers.

Also, guys I'm in the process of installing my Accord SRI (short ram intake) and I'm having one small problem...the hose going to the idle air control valve is a bit on the small side on the ID (inner diameter) and I'm having problems slipping it on. Anyone else who has done this mod have problems like mine? How did you solve them?

Edit: Well unfortunately nobody responded, me and my mom went out there and tried to pry it on with a screwdriver and it didn't work so well so I took some WD40 and sprayed a drop or two on the IACV nipple and then just wiggled the hose back and forth and it popped right on and then it was just muscling it down after that. I took it for a test drive and it runs great, I even think it's idling better (oddly enough since the hose for the IACV is now thinner on the inside). I thought it felt faster than even just the cone and the stock intake and my girlfriend agrees with me on that. The sound is definitely louder and its fairly good sounding up till right about the redline when it shifts. At which time my girlfriend commented that my car was whistling. I can't really tell you what is going on there, I don't particularly like it but I don't think its a vacuum leak or anything since I tightened down all of my brand new hose clamps like I was trying to choke the piping under them to death. Either way if it's normal it's still a fair trade for the growl it gives on an economical 2200 or so RPM and might get the attention of some of the Honda fools who might think it's a quiet BOV. I don't like the sound but meh, my friend has a CJ7 Jeep that backfires a bit and most of the guys we know think it's cool while me and him don't.

DadsMaxima

OK, posting up to see if we can find a problem with my dad's Maxima. It is a 1992 GxE with the auto. He picked it up cheap about 6 mos ago with 90K miles on it. Body and interior are spotless. It has had a slight miss ever since he bought it. He drove it down (Vegas to Phoenix) a couple weeks ago and it didn't look like it ever had a tune up so I threw in plugs, wires, cap and rotor for him. We found that the coil wire had actually crystalized to the cap, so we thought for sure we fixed the miss.

It ran a lot better, but still had a slight miss. He was in CA visiting my sister over the weekend and her husband convinced him to dump a can of Seafoam into the tank to clean the injectors. That is when the problem started. As soon as he went to pull out of the gas station is when things started happening.

The car is missing very bad now - it barely wants to keep running. In addition, it has no power in first gear. It shifts through second and third, but it will not go into overdrive. He drove it home from Los Angeles to Vegas in 3rd gear.

His local mechanic looked at it and said that he needs a trans without even driving it. He quoted $1800 for a trans and said that the car isn't worth fixing because of the "internal engine problems" that are causing the rough running.

I'm thinking that the Seafoam probably had something to do with the rough running, and the rough running is causing the shifting problem with the trans. I told him to go buy a fuel filter (since we hadn't replaced it yet) and go fill it with fresh gas and see what happens. Other thing I am thinking is that it had an injector (or injectors) failing and the Seafoam just made them worse.

What say ye, oh gurus of the Maxima?

3g94MaxGXE

I'm with you on this, you probably need a new fuel filter, and the injectors may need replacement.

I think it's well worth the money you'd spend fixing it though I'd do the work myself rather than being charged nearly $2000 for a transmission that shouldn't cost half that.

You may also want to check ECU codes just to make sure you aren't overlooking something. Not to mention you better get the timing belt and water pump replaced before your problem is broken valves.

DadsMaxima

Is there a way to check the codes without a reader? I only have a reader for OBDII.

Timing belt definitely needs to be done.

Searching around here I found several sources for transmissions. If his really is bad then I'll run up to his place and trailer it back and swap the trans for him.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, code stuff is in one of the stickies.

I haven't helped replace an auto in a maxima, but I did in an altima, and it wasn't too bad.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the ECU has a screw to turn to pull codes. it says how to in the stickies.
Personally I would check the timing belt before doing ANYTHING to the car. a broken timing belt (or one that brakes while you are doing other things) is the death of these cars IMO.

the misfire is probably an injector or 2. the seafoam probably loosened some crap in the lines or damaged the windings on the injector(s) enough that they are now dead.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea, because doing an engine swap into a tbelt'd car means you have to buy $200-300 in tools and equipment before you even start. and then, you have to get a motor that works, and put it in an freshen it up. Just because that's what I'm doing on Maxima #3 (with the engine from Maxima #1, who is getting the engine out of the almost-ready-to-go-to-the-JY Maxima #2)... doesn't mean it's a task for everyone. The reason I'm doing it is because Maxima #2 has a silky smooth engine and good injectors for my keeper car (#1), and i'm selling #3 to my friend after i put the engine from my car (#1) in it, which doesn't run quite as well, but runs well enough for him, as his car is on its last leg and he needs something reliable.

lennyseleven

Could someone post a picture of where and what the iacv looks like and is located in a 91 Maxima? Im still having running problems.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...1SE_no_BPT.jpg it's JUST to the right of the #6 plug wire. and just to the left of the plastic intake tube. it's the blocky thing with the little black cap and the canister-like thing at the bottom.

lennyseleven

ok thats what i thought i cleaned it to no avail.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

follow the plug down to the side of the engine near the battery and you'll find a 2x3 pin plug. check each column (i'm saying that it's 2 columns of 3 pins each) to see that you get 38ish ohms from the center to top and center to bottom... check both columns that way.

DadsMaxima

I'm sure I've got everything I need to do a swap. LOL. Let's just say that I'm well trained and very experienced when it comes to cars. As you get to know me I will share some of my experiences. I'll be here a lot as we deal with all the little issues that come up with the Maxima. Thanks to everyone who has responded so far!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

sorry i don't drink

but yea if you've got the skills, tools and time, then go for it.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

its ginger ale

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I thought it was root beer

3g94MaxGXE

I'm not a drinker either, no legally old enough to be nor do I care.

It'll be tea, lemonade or mountain dew for me.

gammatrain

I'm looking at a 92 car for sale locally. It has a SOHC engine that is not working well. It has lost all power and appears to be running on 2-3 cylinders. I'm thinking it might make a decent daily driver and grocery getter if I replace the engine with a JDM engine.

How hard is this to do? What is a fair price to pay for a JDM engine? is there a source for these engines in Southern California?

Thanks a bunch!

Carlos

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it probably doesn't need an engine, it more likely needs injectors.
do a compression test on the motor BEFORE you buy the car.
Also find out how old the timing belt is (with proof of it being done). If the timing belt hasn't been done in over 60k then walk away from it.

gammatrain

Thanks for the quick reply. He is stating the timing belt was replaced a couple of months ago, before the engine started missing so bad. Owner also states he just had the tranny rebuilt.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

did he replace the t-belt? if so, he could have skipped on the tensioner, and skipped a few teeth. bent valves are not fun to try to replace. as automar said above, see if you can get a compression test on the engine. good comp prolly means a bad injector or two. bad comp means walk away.
unless you are handy with a wrench, this car is prolly more work than you want. I would say a fair price for it would be about 500 if the body is pretty good, no rust, no huge dents.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the exception to this being if you have a KNOWN GOOD spare engine lying around, and the ability to swap it in yourself. that's how come i bought a VG5 in may with a broken timing belt for a few hundred bucks.

gammatrain

I'm not opposed to getting my fingers bashed in and dirt under my fingernails. I was actually relieved to see the car in fairly decent/clean shape. The car is being sold for close to the $500 figure you threw at me... that's why I'm considering a JDM exchange.

But... so far I haven't heard whether or not a JDM engine is agood idea on this particular car.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if the thing runs after the injectors are put in, then there's no need to get a JDM motor unless the compression sucks or something else is wrong with the engine itself. i'm putting an engine with MORE miles than my chassis (by about 70k) into my car but it runs better than my current engine (it's on a stand so i can freshen it up in my free time and only have my car down for a weekend). ig you NEED an engine, then yea, JDM is a good option, because they are usually low-miles. but if you don't need it, why go through the expense?

gammatrain

That is an excellent question. Why go through the expense?

Here's my take on the thing. Theoretically, a JDM engine is "known good." The down side of it is that I will most likely have to change the timing belt and replace all the ancillary (injection, heads, etc.), from the existing motor. I do have another car I can drive, so doing this over a weekend is not a huge requirement.

I am inclined to purchase the car, replace the Diz cables, possibly replace injectors (depending on cost), and double check the timing belt. Perhaps that will be all that is required. However, I'm preparing for the worse, assuming the engine is bad and a replacement or rebuilding is in order, a JDM will most likely be the way to go. It could also be the QUICKEST way to go.

So the next question is... assuming I do need an engine (hopefully not), then how hard and/or straightforward is a JDM swap to do for an "average backyard mechanic"?

Thanks!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I would think it would be an easier swap, providing the injectors are okay on the jdm. get the front end off the ground, use an engine hoist to lower it all out the bottom, taking care of cables/hoses/wires along the way. installation is about the same as removal.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

eh. see there's where opinion differs. I found it most practical to pull the tranny first out the bottom, then pull the engine out the top.

to the gammatrain dude...
you shouldn't have to replace the ancillary, as you put it... you can use the JDM heads. the main thing about a JDM swap is using all the USDM sensors

gammatrain

Thanks for both tips, separating the engine and using the sensors only. It's been a LONG TIME since I've done an engine swap with a "smoggable" car.. so i just want to make sure it will work out in the long run. Pun intended. I thought I might have to switch manifolds or something along those lines to accommodate all the smog stuff.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

manifolds maybe (never seen a jdm i or e manifold up close). heads can stay put.

the reason i pulled my engine that way was a) tranny was removed months earlier and b) i don't have anything with which to lift the car that high and c) it's kinda tough to work on the top of the motor when the front of the car is THAT high and d) when the car is that high, it also causes everything to be at a much steeper angle, which levels itself (potentially violently) as soon as you unbolt the crossmember from the body

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

my .02:
I would rather pull a used motor from a running vehicle with 500k than buy a used motor with 30k that I can't see run before I buy it.
I've already been bitten by the low mile BS that people fall for

casadel

hello, this is a very noob question but i am looking to buy a 3rd gen maxima but i am looking for a specific model...

the numbers on the speedometer has script-like numbers. this is the model i am looking for, there were others that had block numbers on a white face (not interested in that one)

so if anyone can help, which year was this model? is it a gle gxe se?

i remember this car takes premium gas. can i feed it regular?

is this a good car for a first time buyer? i know nothing about cars.

thanks in advance.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

92-94GXE

maximas are always good cars. duh.

erm, the VG (all GXEs, and SEs through '91) don't NEED premium, but you can advance the timing and run premium and you'll make a little more power that way. but if you know nothing about cars, odds are you won't be messing with that, so you can run 89 like I do.

89-91 GXE has block letters on a black background. SE is a better car (sportier, better handling, better braking, etc) and if you REALLY want, you can 'downgrade' to the black gauges on your SE. swapping a gauge cluster takes about an hour if it's your first time. http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1796.flv those are the blocky black ones, plus you get to see me paying more attention to the camera than the clutch

casadel

so what you are saying is, the 92-94 GXE models have script numbers i was looking for. it's better with premium gas but will take 89. and the 89-91 SE is a better car but with black background gauges, but i can make it with script numbers by downgrading it.

am i getting this right?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the scripty ones only came on 92-94 GXE, but all of them are cross-swappable with any other year/trim. any SE is better than the GXE in terms of performance. the 92-94SE had a special DOHC engine made EXLUSIVELY for those 3 years of that trim of that car... used NOWHERE else ever. Called a VE30DE, and it's got 30hp more than a 'VG' but requires premium. A VG[30E] doesn't really need premium unless you advance the timing.

so you'd be better off getting an SE (whether VG30E or VE30DE) if you can find a good one (the VE's automatic is much stronger than the VG's automatic, if you plan to drive automatic then keep that in mind) Now don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with GXEs.... hell, my car is a GXE (advertised as an SE.. still have the printout for it), it just takes a little more time and money to upgrade the suspension and brakes to an acceptable level, whereas the SE has a firm suspension and 4-wheel discs standard (GXE has soft suspension and rear drums). Plus the GXE never had a manual tranny option... if you want a manual, you're gonna have to buy all the parts from a junkyard (or find a parts car) and swap it all over.

So get whatever Maxima you please, and if you get something other than a 92-94GXE, you can find those scripty gauges from some 92-94 GXE owners on here that preferred and swapped in the white ones, and have the black ones just lying around waiting to be sold.

casadel

i think i rode in a 92-94SE automatic. i remembered it being pretty fast for a sedan and it was a great ride too. and afterwards i rode in a 4th gen maxima and it was horrible.

was the SE available in cloth? what about the GLE?
and what kind of things should i look for (condition wise) when looking for the SE?

thanks in advance.