Check all wiring and connections that relate to all cylinders, Meaning wiring to coil, sensors, all ground wiring etc.

Fuel pump, yes likely culprit based on everything you said and did, pull the pump and visually inspect + check for plugged sock. Check for major contamination and water as well.

Intermittent problems can suck, careful visual inspection usually reveals source. Remember to KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid, Actually one of the 1st places I would start with in your case is the battery terminals.

 

Definitely sounds like a bad f/p, the next time it does the stall out thing, whack the tank immediately after the stall out, just to confirm.


Check the codes..

---> http://forums.maxima.org/4873104-post18.html

 

1992 maxima gxe with 131,000 miles. Bought it for $500 from a lady said it was running rough. I brought it home and it ran real rough stuttering and idleing it would lose power and then downshift and take off and then stutter agin. I put new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotery button, pulled the fuel rail and swapped for one out of a running max (no money for new injector but the one it came out of ran good). It has no check engine light showing. where do I start and anyadvice would be appreciated still running rough

 

Did you swap both rails? The injectors can be tested for resistance using a multimeter, did you have a chance to do this? A good range of resistance is between 11 and 15 Ohm.

 

yes I swapped both rails and tried the multi meter thing but mine is old and analog and hard to get to work. I figured it would be okay since it came off a running car. do i have to tear it back down and check that?

 

Possibly. Its just that there are no absolute certainties with these cars so things really have to be checked out completely. On the VE engine, the rear injectors can be checked from the harness they share. If the VG is also like that, then you dont have to tear everything down.

You left out fuel filter from your list, so that can be something else to replace. I'm sure someone who knows VG-specific troubleshooting will chime in soon.

 

Where on the harness do I test at?
Fuel filter was also replaced.

 

All the vg injectors except the one on #2 cylinder<--(bottom left injector, looking @ the engine from the front of the car) can be ohm checked directly at the injector terminals.

I use an old analog ohm meter all the time with no problems mang , what problem are you having with measuring ohms with it?

 

I cross threaded the gland nut while replacing the rear strut cartridge on my 94 GXE.

What are my options now?

Obtain a jy rear strut assembly?

Make the change to disc brakes now?

 

sorry it took a min to reply the laptop died. when I tried the multimeter the needle would jump or go to what looks like to 10 ohms, and start jumping agin

 

i have a 90 SE 5spd, im a little lost on the terms used here like "VG", but my real question is about the shifter falling through the floor. has this ever happend to anyone? the shifter broke free of what appears to be a rubber bushing that is dry and cracked beyond belief and half of it is gone as it is, and the shift linkage is sitting on the heat sheild. i cant find this part ANYWHERE, the junk yards cant figure it out either, and thanks to CT laws there are no u-pull its left. so any help would be appreciated, i know about the exhaust studs going bad and thats why the cars not on the road. it snapped all but 2 studs on both sides.

also, is there an easy way to clean out the vent boxes for the heat and AC? the car sat for two years with a supply of toilet paper in the back seat for some reason, and the mice made a nice home for themselves and now it wont switch over to heat, and winter might as well be here and with no defrost its difficult to drive.

this is an amazing car but ive spent my life studying up on ford V8s and needless to say this is a whole new ball game for me and im completly lost, i just now mastered how to get around the bose stereo system. so any help is appreciated, thanks

 

lol, sorry, we throw those terms around all day long, like gamers throw "noob", "leet", etc.
"vg" is for the engine code of vg30e, the one used in your (and my) SE.

a while back there was a thread about those bushing rotting out, and greeny had a genius idea to get a polyurethane block, cut it down and replace the worn bushing. but I dont think i have actually heard of one falling out in our car (not to say it hasn't happened)
cleaning the AC box, i don't know, but the search may come up with something. good luck

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/34560n-...4-p-48227.html

wiking knows the most about the nooks and crannies like climate control... hopefully he'll peep in here soon. I know you can probably just dismantle it all and shake the obstructing objects (dead mice??? GROSS!) out of the passages that air goes through.

 

i just went out and starteed pulling plug wires (read some post tried to get as far as I can.) It is running the same with the #3 #4 #5 plug undone. does that mean the fuel injectors are bad? please help I need to get this car running

 

to make sure we are on the same page regarding cyl. #

___ firewall
135
246
___ radiator

that seems odd...

 

Yes we are on the same page. So are the injectors bad? Pull it apart agin??? No other possible problems? I have no money for new injectors is there a way to see if I can swap out junkyard injectors.( I know this sounds horrible but I am broke in todays economy)How can I test them other than an ohms check?

 

thanks guys, i spent 3 hours looking for atleast that last night. so its a dealer part? assuming that it is im ordering it today. and with the heater box and vents, my brothers a mechanic and said its a 16 hour job to get it out, so would cutting a hole and vaccuming all crap out and appoxying the hole closed again work? i drove the car all summer with nothing but windows, didnt bother me, so its not that important, i just need the defroster. again, thanks for the help, i like to know what im driving front and back, time to learn the maxi.

 

yup, those are your options.

 

the ohm check is the most accurate test. All the others still rely on that one for an absolute answer.

 

Hey,

I put in tokico hp's and B&G springs(1.6inch drop all around), new boots & bump stops, new strut mounts, everything new, i am getting a lot of bounce even on a relatively smooth street doing 80kms an hr, do i need to trim/cut my bump stops down? will this help? thanks in adavance, by the way this is on a 92 maxima se

 

That's the B&G 1.6 inch drop trait dude, they are quite a stiff spring, not mention they are a progressive spring...

If you want a smoother riding drop spring, go with Eibach, they are a linear spring like the stock springs, but with a higher spring rate and a 1.1 inch drop from stock.

 

well this is bouncing so bad sometimes that its worse that my oem setup, so should i not even try with the bump stops and just swap out the springs for eibachs? also the eibach pro kit thats drops the 3rd gens 1.2 inchs are progressive springs like the B&G's, atleast thats what the descriptions say on the websites, thx

 

http://www.drivewire.com/products/ni...ibach-springs/

eibach pro kit description

 

yeah, the whiskey is really talking tonight

All the standard drop springs for these cars are linear front/progressive rear..

don't bother swapping bump stops, if you want a slightly smoother ride, go with eibach...But be reminded, you will not have a smooth as stock(good condition stock) ride with any drop spring kit out there for these cars..there simply is not enough suspension travel on the 3rd gen.

 

hey np, i wish the whiskey was talking for me but sadly im at work, well that really blows, and its weird sometimes it rides nice and tight like i think it should always ride and others its completely messed so thats why i thought it was bottoming out, hence maybe try trimming the bump stops, also im in upper canada, manitoba to be exact and its pretty cold here, any chance that has an effect on how my springs and struts ride?

 

Most definitely, i have B&G's with toks also, to be honest, this setup makes for a horrible winter ride. most likely due to strut oil being cold=much firmer strut+cold still metal springs= booinnng booining booinng!!

like i said before, do not trim your bump stops, it will lead to premature strut failure.

 

cool, in the summer does it ride a lot better? i havent driven my car in nice weather, in the week it took my mechanic to put in all the parts, it went from nice to snow on the ground which sux, im wondering if i should just park it and leave the B&G's in it

 

meh, they are still a bit bouncy in the summer also, just not as bad. It's just inherent of this spring type to behave like this.

 

have you ran eibachs before? is there a lot less bounce with them?

 

No, but i have read for many years on this forum that they are the best of both worlds, so to speak, i just wanted a lower drop then the eibach springs, so i went with b&g's...

 

ya thats why i went with B&G's myself, ah well, ill keep em till the spring and see how they do in warm weather, thx for the advice man

 

hmm, I have eibach/toks, and though I don't know how B&G's ride, I can say that the eibach's are pretty firm regardless of the situation. But I guess with the added height in the spring they can still stay firm but also manage to not jolt so much over uneven ground.

 

anyone know how to remove the 3 bolts holding in the right cv axle on an 89 SE?? doing an engine swap myself and im going thru a living hell with it... also i got 3 stripped screws that hold my steering knuckle to the control arm on the right side and im pissed cuz i dont want to have those screws drilled off and i end up havin to replace the bolts cuz the threads got f-ed up,,,anyone know a easier way to get stripped screws off??

 

lol

 

why the lol greeny??? also does anyone know if the heater core and window regulators from other max's that are not 89's fit in my 89 without problems??

 

would a 1995 maxima body kit fit a 1990

 

You're not talking about the CV axle carrier bracket are you? Those are the only three bolts that I can think of that would be a problem; but that's more of location. All of the other bolts came out fine when I removed mine are you using quality sockets? They really make the difference with that kind of job. Wonder if anyone has had any experience with these:

http://www.bt-andf.com/index.php

Well, generally everything 1989 to 1994 will fit fine. All regulators will, I assume the heater core will as well. Never read anything different.

 

nuh-uh...

 

first...thanks wanted to make sure before i purchased those parts lol...yeah im talkin bout the cv axle support housing on the front right side...from the way i looked at them...they seemed odd to me...to be facing the left side when their for the right...guess i gotta jack the whole damn car up even more to get to them(working with only 2 jackstands trying to do an engine swap...hopefully when i unbolt the tranny i have room to move it out

 

okay did some more reading found my ecu diagnostic thing under the center on the passenger side but I am a bit confused on how to opperate the thing and how do I get my idle set back after I do it? one other question too, there are a ton of junked maximas and I am from the south(tennessee, nashville) is there any way I can get some injectors out of one of them and do the ohms test? do I have to replace to orings or can I just looka nd see if they are in good condition. I know I will have to go back in and change agin but by then I could mabe afford new injectors. I really like this car and want her to be a good car any help will be appreciated.