hey, anyone have any info on the ebay knock sensors for the ve30de engine? are they good? my friend picked one up for his 93 and it doesnt have any writing on it or any yellow dot i think it is, i was reading some older threads about the ebay ones and no one mentioned if they are like the one he got, his has no writing on it and no dot of any color but its the exact size and looks the same as mine (apart from the writing and dot), mine is from the dealer, the only thing that should matter is the ohm resistance right? as long as it tests at the right ohm its all good?

hey, sorry to repost, not sure if anyone seen this Q, or maybe no one knows, worth a shot tho,

Anyone have any info on the ebay knock sensors for the ve30de engine? are they good? my friend picked one up for his 93 and it doesnt have any writing on it or any yellow dot i think it is, i was reading some older threads about the ebay ones and no one mentioned if they are like the one he got, his has no writing on it and no dot of any color but its the exact size and looks the same as mine (apart from the writing and dot), mine is from the dealer, the only thing that should matter is the ohm resistance right? as long as it tests at the right ohm its all good?

I have a modo, never buy anything electronic/mechanical for my car from ebay, period. Stuff like that on ebay is like a box of chocolates, ya never know what your going to get.

Better off to buy one from this guy---> http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/

They are oem knock sensors..

Read this first---> http://forums.maxima.org/faq.php

Read this second--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...step-here.html

Ask your question??

ok so my car came with 167xxxkms on it, its going on 175 now, im about to dip into engine work and bolt ons beyond the cai and exhaust that is, now im aware it has a timing chain being the ve30de and i can only safely assume it has never been changed, as i find with most of the parts on this car, repairs sitting at $2200 and climbing, anyways should i replace it, i found a kit with the chains and tensioners, or can it be tightened or have the slack taken out? never had a car that was chain driven before, so i have i have no idea, thanks in advance

chain should last the life of the car. you can replace the tensioners if you want tho

is the Eibach springs good for the city as in NYC?
will it be more bumpy than stock?

all lowering spring will be bumpier than stock springs, period..Eibach will have the best ride of all the others though.

ok thanks, but should i be changing out my stock springs cause of its age?

As long as they are not badly rusted or rusted through, they should be fine.

but remember, if you want to swap out for some eibachs, go for it, if you don't like the ride, you will always have the stock springs to go back to.

ok currently im in the process of an engine swap...lol going ok but a pain in my *** but movin on...easy way to get axles out of tranny?? all bolts removed and taken out of hub assembly...any experienced hints???

Crowbar or large screw driver stuck in between where the axle and transmission mate up, pry them out..

The passenger axle has a carrier bracket hooked to the engine block, there are 3 bolts that must be removed from it before the this axle can come out.

putting a crowbar there wont damage my tranny case will it??? and ive already removed those 3 bolts...damn they were a pain in my ***...broke 2 craftsman sockets on those lol

it won't if you do it right.. you gotta "pop it out"

Seriously, unless your axles are welded in there, you shouldn;t be able to hurt the case at all.

Has anyone tried seafoaming there VE

yes it works, well my VE idles better when i done it and then when i didnt pass the emissions test it lowered it alot to pass.

Hello all
I have a 89 maxima that I recently replace a manual trans and engine with a automatic trans and engine. The transplant appeared to be a success until I notice I had too main problems. Problem 1: one of the spark plug (number 2) is not burning, meaning it look brand new while the others or burning correctly. The wire appears to be firing.
Problem 2: I had to get an exhaust stud tap and I got a pro to do this, he had to tap it bigger than the original because of the damage to the hole (10m to a 12m stud I believe). Now there is water coming out of the hole onto that stud. I have white smoke coming from the tail pipe. It does quite after warming the car but if the car sit idle it starts back. There is no evident of water in the oil. Can anyone tell me what to do? Thanks in advance.

Problem 1. Sounds like you have a bad injector.

Problem 2. Pretty much negates problem 1.. Your "pro" mechanic bored too deep into your cylinder head, piercing the water jacket/coolant passage, so now you have a ruined cylinder head.

Thanks,
I was afraid of that. So that mean I need a new head or can it be plugged? with JB Weld or something similar… and he charge me 40 buck to drill one little hole.

Yeah, the head is pretty much ruined, Unless you can do the head replacement yourself, you are looking at a much $$ in labor for a cylinder head replacement. you might as well grab a used engine from a local salvage yard, swap'um out..

Yep..Swap the manual flywheel out for the automatic flexplate, swap away.

Thanks for the help Greeny.
You're D man

hold on... that might cause problems. there is a nub on the torque converter that might need to rest in the big fat pilot bushing on the a/t engine... and it might not seat properly unless you take the m/t bushing comes out and an a/t bushing goes in.

Post a thread in the main forum so you can get more hits on your particular issue, most members don't look at this thread.

can somebody do that for me i dont know how to post new threads??

Thankyou so much GREENY!!

Just for next time..Just look at the top/left of the page in the 3rd gen forum, you will see a icon like this

Just click on it, enter thread title, then enter your question,problem, pics.etc..

Do you have any ideas about this problem?? Any suggestions welcome

I have a 91 Maxima V6 3.0L and Im having some problems with my tires. I currently have 17inch rims on them with sets of 215/46R17 tires.

Problem is the two front tires are rubbing on the inner wall. I want to know if there is a solution to this problem.

I was thinking of switching the tires to the back where they do not rub and getting two new tires for the front that are lower in height? This my families 3rd..3rd gen Maxima and were not trying to lose another one lol.

215 45 17 is smaller than stock.. the proper size is 215 50 17 or 225 50 17. you are probably seeing issues from your wheel offset being too high, which means the wheels are pulled in closer to the body. Go to a wheel/tire shop and ask them if they can help you find the right size spacer to keep from rubbing.

Hmm, if that is the problem what would new spacers run me?

got no clue... best way to find out is to just ask a wheel/tire shop, or search in the wheel/tire forum here on Maxima.org

does it rub all the time? or just when turning one way or the other, or both? or only when you hit bumps/dips?

Im not really sure when it hits. From the looks of it it hits when Im turning.
Also my car has gotten even worse with its steering ever since an alignment.

I have an appointment at Mr.Tire tomorrow, thx for the help.
I really do not trust the mechanics around my area because all they seem to do is cause more problems.

1994 SOHC Auto-

Several problems, first, sometimes the dash lights fail to work, or actually turn off when they were working, usually taking the taillights (not brakelights) out with it. Is this particularly common? Just the switch?

Next, I've been increasingly nervous about this car since I got it. I had a mechanic friend with better tools than me replace the timing belt, he said this engine had more sludge than any he'd seen before. The engine seems ok... how worried should I be? Get rid of the car ASAP before it dies?

Last, the transmission. I've read the horror stories, so maybe I'm oversensitive, but on rare occasion it acts 'weird'. No hard slips just driving that I've noted, but if I juice the throttle a bit close to when the transmission was going to upshift, sometimes it'll rev way up and delay the shift, and seem to slip while doing so since the car doesn't accelerate with it as hard as it should. Is this close to the end? Anyone experience a failure note it begin manifesting like this? Or should we just go easier on the thing and it'll last another 100k?


It's my g/f's car, she really likes it but doesn't want it if it's on it's last legs. And I'd hate to do a manual swap if the engine's at risk. Advice al-mighty Maxima.org-ers?

there are a few places that meed to be checked. can you manage to get it to not work, by fiddling with the switch?
the mechanic didn't offer any suggestions on clearing it out? you would want it to be flushed, to remove all that sludge
well, I can tell you that the tranny won't last "another" 100k, but I would recommend reading up on some of the vg auto rebuild threads, I don't and haven't had one, so I haven't paid much attention to them.

i assume he means you have oil leaking behind the timing belt cover... if that's the case then you just need to redo the front main, and cam seals. Which, sadly, means pulling off the timing belt and sprockets... as long as no oil gets on the timing belt, you can run it that way for a while, but ou'll be best off putting new seals in there.

as for the tranny.. when it's upshifting, the shift should always be positive. IE, rpm goes DOWN during the entire shift. never should it go up then down. mine didn't shift crisply at all... but it never did the up-then-down thing. It did fail though, without warning, and i did a manual swap. If nothing else the manual swap will get you better MPG.

"i assume he means you have oil leaking behind the timing belt cover... if that's the case then you just need to redo the front main, and cam seals."

No, he had the valve covers off and the valvetrain was covered in sludge, some of it hardened into an almost enamel like substance, presumably due to heat. He blamed cheap oil irregularly changed.

I read that the SOHC car (GXE?) never came with a 5 speed in the US, so I assume the DOHC trans bolts on? Got a link to a swap thread for me by chance?

I might live with the sludge if I can resolve the other problems cost efficiently. Especially since I have a VG30 out of a older Maxima sitting in my garage as a spare for either my 300zx or the Maxima, whoever needs it first...

*PS- Regarding the light switch, sometimes turning it on and off a few times fixes it, sometimes not. Sometimes hitting a bump fixes it. =\

well.. 89-91 ALL models (SE and GXE) had the SOHC engine. 92-94SE had the new DOHC, and 92-94GXE kept the SOHC. All SE's, regardless of year, had manual option. I have had 2x 89SE SOHC 5spds (one for my 5spd swap, one is my friend's car now)

but yea the DOHC tranny bolts on BUT you need to swap hubs and axles to make it work. SOHC m/t uses the same hubs and axles as the SOHC a/t. where are you located btw?

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...swap-blog.html