internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Z31 only came single T, Z32 came TT

300zmax

im going to assume you mean on a track :wink: lol. what do you mean kick back? like a shifting problem? i had my 91 gxe paced at 130 by my buddy in his trans-am. it was WOT and out of steam at 130. wasnt going any faster.

Infam0usMax

nah... more like open highway lol i dont think ill do that again tho i just was testing it but yeah it seemed to have lost all its juice at 110 when i mean 'kick back' i mean thats what it felt like cause it would hit that 110 mark and then jerk like it wanted to go back lol but i do think i am gonna work on getting at newer model SE i dont know how to drive a 5speed yet but i gotta learn somewhere

dung0beetle

All of my power windows work using their own individual switches, but the driver's switches for the right front and rear left windows do nothing. There is no "failing motor" noise, so I assume the switches just aren't getting power.

I am looking for some kind of diagram or pictures of how to disassemble the switch box thingy before I decide to go in and accidentally break something.

My interior is in pristine like new condition, so I don't want to make mistakes.

Obsession_92-94

Those driver's side window switches are renown for quitting. I would advice getting a new one if you don't feel like doing any sautering.

300zmax

i think you getting the final shift, lock up :shrugs: but keep on the gas it will go a little more, on a track wink wink

dung0beetle

I have no problem soldering, its just that I recently purchased the car, and it was well taken care of, and I just want to get it back to working perfectly. All I need to fix is the window switches, minor body damage (gf backed into a dumpster, so the rear bumper needs some fiberglass and bondo work), and the a/c blower motor needs replacing. After all the minor details are fixed, I plan on replacing the tail lights and dash cluster lights with leds, making a custom sound system in the trunk, and reupholstering the interior. It may sound like a bit much for a 92 model that is less than impressive, but when the engine finally bites the dust, I plan on making it full electric. All I need for that, is to make a new adapter plate. I have a controller and shunt motor that was going to be used on a Ford Taurus.

MIC5631

Hi new here!! I am thrilled to be getting a 92 maxima GXE in about 2months from a family member its sat for awhile and wondering what if any do i need to look for or do b4 running. the car has a bose radio and id like to keep it stock its not working not sure what is exactly wrong with it i know my brother in-law said that he had speaker troubles as well either a cracking noise when it was on or a burnt smell not 100% sure on that. also he has the drivers window blocked because it will fall down i am guessing the cable broke on it.
any help would be greatly appreciated
hope i can add to the forum as well

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

The bose amps are blown(bose systems have individual amps for each speaker) I recommend ditching the whole system for after market, it's just not worth the effort/$$ to keep the audio system stock.

You have a broken window regulator, the cable itself doesn't break, the problem usually lies in the with the plastic parts that guide the cable.

PMAX08

where can i get a FSTB for my 92 se ve engine, i see the ebay ones but they look cheap and most say there for the SOHC engine only and the others dont specify but look the same, let me know.. thx

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

use the 5.5gen one (02-03)

PMAX08

it bolts right up? and can the RSTB from a 5.5 gen work as well?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yes to the front, no to the rear

Infam0usMax

Im back guys... well ive been going without my 6x9s for a while now yesterday i went out and got me some Eclipse Audio 6x9s but here is where the problem come in i got it all hooked up but completely forgot about each speaker having its own amp...come to find out they are shot to h3ll and i want to know if i should just run new wires or just get in there and start cutting wires i seen the thread about an amp bypass but there arent any pictures or good details to show u what to do so if anybody has a way that i can get them to play let me know ASAP thanks in advance...-Infam0usMax

Phatmatt

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know a place that I can order cheap parts for my 1992 gxe?
I need front and rear brake pads/disks/calipers. front universal joints, power steering and A/C straps along with other stuff.

From Canada would be better for me, can also be from the states. Free shipping is a big plus.

Since I'm at it, would it be better to buy new disks/calipers/universal joints or could I get away with it if I got them used? I'd think it would be better new, but I'm on a tight budget and need these things changed asap

thanks,

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

internetautomar ships to canada; his parts are not cheap-chinese knockoffs, but he has good prices.

disks and calipers are fine to get used, assuming the disks aren't warped or deeply scored. they can be turned for relatively low cost.
our cars don't use u-joints, they use cv(Constant Velocity) joints. but regardless, if you need to replace them, you can get rebuilt ones for about $100 US, at most parts stores.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

STOP ASKING THE SAME DAMN QUESTION THIRTY ****ING TIMES! SOMEONE WILL ANSWER YOU, IF YOU WAIT A FEW MINUTES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

(please note the appropriate use of caps lock)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the big wires = amp power
small wires = speaker signal. hook the small wires to the speaker and leave the big ones be.

Infam0usMax

lol who do u think ur yelling at? yelling gets you no where and i posted it twice but in a different way... you will be ok... and my other one asked if anybody had pictures... so make sure u check and be correct for yelling the next time!

Infam0usMax

thankx Caped at least somebody answered...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you asked the same thing. you do this frequently.
doesnt matter if the wording was the same.
next time, do a search. the info is freely available, and has been answered more times than I care to count.

Phatmatt

iTrader: (9)

I looked up the parts. Good prices. A lot less than what the garage wanted for parts and labour. Most of these I can do on my own anyways.

And thanks for the correction about the cv joints.

Infam0usMax

if u can prove it then do so if not there is nothing else for u to say... case close and i didnt ask the samething but yeah whatever bro...and if it was answered then i didnt find it but like i said you will be ok get over it man..

Infam0usMax

ummm...yeah that like really didnt work and since i took the wires off the amps in the back the front speakers dont play but i think im just going to run all new wires...stright from the cd player...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that'll work too. and if you have any doubt about what is going on, that's probably a better way to do it. Your 6x9 ARE aftermarket... right? Or you kept the original bose speakers and are just trying to hardwire them? I have heard about issues with that due to 1ohm->4ohm imcompatibility (except one loophole that greeny found with a certain brand of HU).

But I have to rewire my own rears cuz somehow (don't ask how, cuz i don't know) if it set the bal/fad to left rear, it's REALLY quiet but only out of that speaker... then if i set it to right rear only, then the both rear speakers come on but the right one is louder so i'm just gonna run new wires and let that be that.

Infam0usMax

Yeah...i think that would be best because i really have no clue haha and yes I have some brand new Eclipse 6x9s...and the bose had a hole in them where it came from i don't know they never played since the day i got the car just a popping sound all the time. i thought it was coming from the little amp maybe it was but it sucks and yeah i did read about that 1ohm->4ohm thing on that other thread... while im at it should i just go ahead and take tha door speakers out also?

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ECLIPSE-SE6900-4-way-6x9-Car-Audio-SPEAKERS-SE-6900_W0QQitemZ360129232367QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_S peakers?hash=item360129232367&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 &_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1 318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

well it looks like im just gonna have to get some wire... and get to work...thanks again and good luck...

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

hey guys still doin my tranny swap but i got a few more questions:

does anybody have a diagram to show what tranny bolts go into what hole (like length and correct position)

for the clutch hydraulics does anybody have a diagram for that too? i need to hook that all up tomorrow as well.

and what kind of hosing/line would be ok for me to buy for the slave cylinder?

thanks in advance

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/1994/mt.pdf page MT-7
for the slave cylinder just get either an OEM rubber line. I have a Blehmco SS line on mine that i might be willing to part with if you want to buy it. I ended up preferring the feel of rubber.. then again, I got rid of the loopy thing so my clutch is REALLY direct.. you still have the loopy thing so yours wouldn't be as direct as mine.

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks man! i was wondering for the "block" thing, do you have any pics of it mounted up because im not sure what holes im supposed to connect it to, and also where the lines go to (because i have to replace the hard lines with braided ones because they were not salvageable). need a diagram for that if there is one in the FSM too. thanks man!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

bsically you have the hard line ($18 from courtesy nissan) from the master cylinder to the block (or in my case since i bypassed the block, directly connecting to my SS braided line), then the block has the thicker loopy piping, then out of the block there's another hardline that curves back around and connects to the rubber line (or in my case, the SS line) which then goes to the slave cylinder. the block junction is mounted against the frame rail on the driver side between the 2 trans mounts.. i guess it would be directly under the stock intake pipe.

chentwoten

iTrader: (1)

thanks. that's exactly what i needed.

MaXiMa_RyDaH

Hey guys, ok Im sure alot of people have had this problem, but I couldnt find the thread at all, but Im looking to replace the LED display in my AC in the dash. Its digital and i guess the bulbs blew or something. I have a 94 gxe (I 'think' its a gxe lol) and I just needed to know what type and size bulb is needed and how to get in and change it. thanks

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

LED= Light emitting diode

They are not bulbs. You can either attempt to resolder the bad connections on the LED display inside the unit, or find a good used climate control unit.

MaXiMa_RyDaH

oooh.... yeah that makes sense.. haha but is there a thread somewhere on the site where someone has done this with pics or just a detail explanation of the process??

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

not exactly. the closes I know of is the clock in the dash. it dies in a similar manner.
it isn't the most difficult job in the world, but requires at least some ability to solder. I suck at it, and I was able to restore function to my clock.
gimme a sec to find a link.

edit: okay, the place i thought had it (craig brace's maxima page) doesnt detail the normal problem for electrical.
look at this pic below.

the blue arrow indicated a bad joint (may work, but not well) the red arrow indicates a REALLY bad joint, and causes the application not to work at all. both need to be fixed.

MaXiMa_RyDaH

oh ok, yea ill just take it apart and look for the joints. I would just call the nissan dealer thats right down the road, but I have a feeling they will try and charge an arm and 4 legs for it to be fixed lol (just like they tried to charge me almost 2k to replace all the bose equipment in, so after doin some research, I took the entire bose system out and put my own custom system in AND added over 2k watts of more power and sound quality for less than a grand.) so id much rather do it myself lol

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

They(the nissan dealership) will not "fix it"

They will gladly replace it for $1000-$2000 though..

MaXiMa_RyDaH

lol yea I know. Its not really a big deal to me anyway because its been out for like 3 months but I know what buttons to press to make it heat or cool so i didnt sweat it. but now, Im starting to do some work on the interior (new carpet and black leather seats, HOPEFULLY black light neon inside, and ill install blue dome bulbs in and the speedometer blue LEDs too) so I want everything to be as close to perfect as possible i guess....

smetz

ive had my 94 max for a couple months now but i still have no idea what the top buttons on the keyless entry remote do if anything. i have a the gxe if that makes any difference

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you're talking about a keychain remote, right? thats aftermarket, and, unless you find the model number(s) of the aftermarket system, then it would be hard to tell if they even do anything, much less what they do.