thrillseeker

i did and thats what i found all forward gears work revers works none of the electronics are working for the tranny i just need to know where the controller is located

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

then you didn't do the diagnostic on that page. it's supposed to blink at you.... If NONE of the electronics work, then the car will only use 3rd and reverse.

so actually do that thing, and tell us what blink code it spits back.

300zmax

ripping out the controller will not help if you havent ruled out the sensors ect using the procedure. the PDF mentioned a few posts ago will show you the location of the controller if you are so incline on swapping it.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well.. his post is kindof filled with holes, because on an electronically controled tranny like the 3rd gen's, you won't get bu 3rd and reverse if the electronics are not working. Therefore, if all forward gears work, then the electronics work. Otherwise it goes into failsage. i mean failsafe. (note to self: this is not 4chan )

300zmax

Agreed. to many holes. to little info to help. step one diagnostics; step two swap to a manual

but there may be other reasons then the controller. Imo....

300zmax

LMAO nice rick roll cape! you got me! lol

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i didn't rickroll you... a mod did. that wasn't the original link i posted. hence "i see what some mod did there". Epic nonetheless.

chunkysause7

iTrader: (1)

I bought a fuel filter from courtesy.com and i just wanted to know if VG fuel filter are the same as VE ones?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

all the same dude..carry on .

Funambulus

So i was cruising the JY and came across an SE gauge cluster and was mildly curious....is the SE and GXE gauge clusters plug and play with each other or can i not put the SE gauges in a GXE without modification

MaxZap

ok i went to a junk yard today looking for 300zx turbo manifolds and found 2 motors with them still intact. My question is (because i cant remember, shoulda took pics) the turbo manifolds are the same for the 84-89 300z? there was both manifolds connected via a crossover pipe but only thing is i cant recall what the flanged looked like.... are these the correct manifolds and not the N/a ones? i know the front manifold has to have the t3 flange (4 bolt) if im not mistaken? just dont wanna spend $75 on the wrong parts, can anyone reassure me before i go pull them first thing in the morning? besides n/a wouldnt need a crossover right?

srry lots of questions... i know lol

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yes they are 100% swappable. The question is whether it has the right idiot lights for your car or not.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

as brian said, 100%
if the "idiot lights" are wrong for your car, just simply dismantle both sets, and swap over the correct covers from your current cluster, to the new, SE ones.
(simply being relative, of course. I could do it in about 15 minutes)

Funambulus

By idiot lights im assuming u mean all the warning lights....and thats the only things id have to switch...so i can put the 145 speedo with 6500 tach....so if there the same year...no worries? right? and one more question what size are the bulbs for the dash....194? and theres a total of 15 if im not mistaken? right?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

not just same year, but same model(all 3rd gens are interchangeable).
i dont know the total number, but yeah, 194's and alot of 'em.

actually, I thought of an issue I had when I swapped in my VE cluster; the tach. Reason: I drive a stick, and did not realize how much my shifting relied on my peripheral vision saw the tach, so I hit the rev limiter all the time, right after the swap, for about a month. damned highway merging....

Funambulus

wait what are you talking about ur Tach? wait so ur rev limiter is still at 6000 and it looks like it should go to 6500 is that what ur talking about....and is it possible for me to bump up my rev limiter to 6700 like the z31 its the same exact engine just a different ecu so....i mean come on before i wrecked my z31 300zx i had a ecu reprogrammed to rev up to 7100... so i mean this engine should hold...with racing fluids plugs wires and what not right?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

no point in increasing the rev limiter on the VG maxima without putting in some more aggressive cams. no matter what, power is always going to fall off before 6000rpm without better cams. now, turbocharged.... that's a different story. i don't know what you did to your z (nitrous? turbo?) but 6000rpm is the highest you'll ever need to rev.

as far as the cluster.. the light sockets are all the same. if you get the cluster from a different year or whatever, just put the proper number of extra bulbs you need and transfer the film sheets over also for your warning lights. EVERYTHING inside the cluster is swappable, piece-for-piece.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, I was seeing the tach not quite reach teh red line on the ve cluster (@about 6600 rpms), and I thought I was still safe. thats when mine hits the rev limit. its not a big deal anymore, it was almost a year ago, so i have gotten used to it, and dont rev that high before a shift. unless its wet outside, and i wanna play...

mundo

Hey guys, I recentley changed my injectors out, so while I had it all torn down I did a tune up, and put it back together, the car ran fine for a couple of days. So I went out the other day and came home and pulled into the garage, and I had fuel pouring out, by the time I got the hood up and a flashlight, I couldn't tell where the fuel was coming from, and now the engine is hydro locked with fuel and the car won't turn over...any ideas on what I need to be looking for???

ffokazak

Hey Guys,

Ok so I have had three things go on my 1993 SE.

-Airbag light is on.
-The same day the Stereo quit working
-And the same day the Clock on the dash doesnt work.

I took the fuses out, I checked the stereo wiring, and I found nothing.

Anyone seen this before?

Thanks!

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Did you remove your old injectors and replace them with new?

If yes to above, then you have most likely pinched the injector o'rings when you installed them into the fuel rail.

to fix...buy new o'rings,remove all injectors, put new o'rings on injectors, apply LOTS of petroleum jelly on the o'rings before reinstalling them into the fuel rail..

another tip: Use the metal injector caps to press the injectors back into the fuel rail, just tighten the cap screws down little by little on each side until the injector has completely seated.

good luck

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

i would suggest looking at the wiring diagram in the FSM and seeing where all 3 systems meet and look for the problem starting from there going backwards to the battery.

PTO005

Had to replace a fuel injector in my '94 Maxima GXE a few months ago but now fuel is leaking around the new (replaced) injector. Fuel is also "spraying" from the either the injector rail itself (back rail - passenger side corner) or from the short piece of hose connecting the front and back rails - I couldn't tell for sure where. Every heard of a rail developing a pin hole? Replacing the fuel line is a no-brainer but I'm not sure about the rail itself. I got the "leaky" injector out of the rail but now I don't know if I should replace the rail or not. I'm concerned that I'll break the old injectors attempting to pull them out of the fuel rail if I need to do that. Any thoughts?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

typically, rails dont develop holes.
a test would be to take the rail back out (you will need to anyway), block off one of the ends of the rail, and blow compressed air thru. spray with soapy water to see where the leak(s) is, if its the rail itself, or the injector.
typical leaks are from pinched o-rings.

Funambulus

Concerning the 300zx i had JWT S2 cams 272/260 i think the biggest that will fit in the heads...and bumped up the revlimiter....it put my top speed from 147 to about 165 i love 5 speeds...and according to my calculations bumping up an a GXE with an auto tranny will put 1st gears top speed from 43 to about 50 and so on and so forth through the gears making its top speed about 135...now if applying this to a 5spd LSD VG top speed would be about the same as the 300zx. granted the VG tiny injectors wont help at the high of a range...i think there between 150cc and 200cc if not mistaken... so 450cc would most likely do the job? or am i just thinking to far outside the box

300zmax

My buddies trans am paced me at about 130mph in my stock 91 automatic. and the same goes with other members if im not mistaken, so i would hope with SP2 cams and other mods 135 should be easy. but where do you plan to go that fast? i dont think youll hit that on the 1/4 will you?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

there is more to top speed than just HP.
Gearing, frontal area also affect top speed.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

in that case, with S2 cams, it would make sense to rev it higher. I thought you meant you had a stock-cammed z31.

Funambulus

On the 1/4 doubt ill hit that...im not a big fan of drag...its great and all...but the rush lasts 20 seconds in the worst case scenario...its just i prefer cars that are show with go...not show and no go... S2 cams made my car sounds meaner then mean...and made cars back down...i meant like GTP's and Mustang GT's and last but not least little screamers the CRX's....and now im trying to convert the power to a 4 door mid-size luxury...where ppl look at u and go...u wanna race me in that...and S2's make ur car sounds mean...especially if u have the variable exhause setup, ur car is uber quiet until u rev and the higher backpressure opens your exhause threefold....just the look on there face...then u just turn ur car back off...and chill to the bumpin music...

MaxZap

ok upon startup of my 92 maxima w/ 136k miles on it, it takes 3-4 secs after shifting to "D" for the car to move (sometimes longer on cold mornings)... it will inch foward till it all of a sudden shifts... after that as long as guy is not turned off everything is good, nothing more. Now what i noticed is when i start the car and this problem occurs (doesnt happen all the time , kinda 50-50) if i turn the car off and re-try it will be fine. in either situation once the car does its 1st initial shift its no more problems and no hard slipping (for its age).

any ideas what this could be? a solnoid going bad?
help pls...

cosmicamerican

Okay - i'm new to posting here although i've been helped by the collective wisdom of everyone here. I love my old Maxima (94 SE 5-speed black with black leather and 165k) but it has a bad left front wheel bearing that has eaten into the hub. So--- is the DOHC 5speed hub assembly different from the SOHC autos? All the yards I've called said it must be made of unobtainium. No body can locate one.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the hub, as in the center part where the splines of the axle mesh into? yea they are different from the SOHC version. The outer knuckle is the same I think for all of them, because the wheel bearing is the same for all of them. But the axle splines are different from SOHC vs DOHC therefore the hubs are different. I have some extras... not pretty by any means, (some rust..) but it is for a DOHC 5spd.

cosmicamerican

I didn't realize it but it looks like the 92-94 hub is the one I need. Easiest to get the whole spindle hub assembly even though I just need the hub. Been looking through the classifieds, if anyone one can spare one let me know!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the only thing is that the wheel bearing in it is no good. so you can get one of mine but you'll still have to put new bearings in it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

most of the time on fwd nissans, when the bearings go out, the hub/spindle assemblies are in the same shape as cosmicamerican's= toast. You pretty much have to catch them before they start grinding to save them.

cosmicamerican: What area do you live in?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

tehfawk is a cosmiamerican?

i never drove on those hubs actually. i just didn't like the way the bearing felt when i spun it by hand. but come to think of it, it was identical to the ones i got from goon, and didn't feel too different from the way the ones felt after i got them back from pepboys. there isn't really any freeplay... they just weren't as free-spinning as my old VG bearings... i just wanted to be on the safe side.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I bought a set of used ve hubs like that at a local j-yard, no free play, but felt tight spinning them by hand.

Guess what happened after installation..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

shat on you?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

They were worse than the ones that were on the car..

AdamKashner

I found a Manuel but you have to download it by chapter

AT.pdf
BF.pdf
BR.pdf
CL.pdf
EC.pdf
EL.pdf
EM.pdf
FA.pdf
FE.pdf
FWD.pdf
GI.pdf
HA.pdf
IDX.pdf
LC.pdf
MA.pdf
MT.pdf
RA.pdf
ST.pdf