hey capedcadaver do you know if the a33b brakes will fit with the stock se 15s? went through the write up on it but didn't see anything and anyone know where I can get the rear torque member for the 300z rear set up I PMed jeff about them but he no longer has anymore all local yards dont have any 89-90 maximas

 

for the last ******* time people, the 89-90 part you need for the z31 rear bbk is NOT THE TORQUE MEMBER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you are talking about the CALIPER ADAPTER PLATE. you can thank colombianmax for confusing EVERYONE about that, cuz he never bothered to fix the captions in his pictures. i've posted the CORRECT names (and info for people with ANY year 3g maxima, not just 91-94) and it gets ignored/forgotten every damn time, so here it is again:
89-90 caliper adapter plate (which colombianmax CALLED a 'torque member' cuz he didn't read the FSM before posting)
91-94 TORQUE MEMBERS, pads, calipers, ebrake cables (however, if you're swapping from an already-disc 89-90 to the z31 bbk, you can swap the hooks that the ebrake cable attaches to, and keep the original 89-90 ebrake cables)
86 z31 rotors
NO other combination of parts will work.

up front, stockers won't fit the a33b mod without profoundly thick spacers. tried gxe and se wheels after i got the brakes on, neither would even sit flush onto the hub.

 

lol well I got 1 answer out of you for the front and 1 rant for the rear I know the parts I need just can't seem to round up a "CALIPER ADAPTER PLATE" (I'll save you the anger this time caped)

 

When I put on brakes in my my 1990 maxima, the lights don't all light up. It's half and half. The outside bulb on the driver side comes on and the inside bulb on the passenger side comes on. The other two don't light up. When I turn the headlights on the all light up but when I press on the brakes, they go off again. I checked the bulbs and they're fine. Any Ideas? I've seen other maximas driving around like this too. Is it a common problem for these cars?

 

well it's not my fault half the members on this site are retards. i might have a set of the adapter plates tho, it depends if i part out my other car or not (it's an 89).

 

did you remove the bulbs and look at the contacts, or just check to see if the filaments were busted or not? if the contacts on the bulbs and/or sockets are ****ed up then it can cause weird stuff to happen. i've seen people put 1156 bulbs in 1157 sockets and the bulbs would shut off when they stepped on the brakes if the headlights were on

 

well i'll keep my window licking down as much as i can as long as you let me know if/or when you part out your 89 that i want the adapter plates and i will start calling you "Sir CapedCadaver"

 

nonono you have it all wrong. Call me 'Wookiee Goldberg' It's mainly a matter of finances and repair-parts cost/availability. It needs a hood, fender, headlights, corner lights, grille, radiator, front core support, and a/c condensor..... and given my plans to buy a Z31 i really don't need 3 cars and don't feel like dumping $700 into fixing the white one (cuz it's not in that great shape anyhow)

 

Dear Wookiee Golderg

PM me a price when you have your finances and such matters figured out and I'll make sure that paypal has my money, so you can have prompt payment on said matter If yor picking up what i'm putting down

 

I have the hood in my garage still.

 

Hi there, new guy here, my question is I have a 1990 maxima with rear drum brakes.I'd like to install a disc brake system. Has anyone done a conversion,and what year model maxima's can I get the parts off of in the wrecking yards?
Thank you
Ezra

 

any 3rd gen (89-94) maxima that is either an SE or has ABS will be rear disc. 89-91 is one rear disc setup, 92-94 is another. to keep looking up parts simple I would suggest staying with 89-91. You will need the complete rear strut housing for the swap.
If you want to go beyond stock then do a search on Z31 BBK

 

Hey guys new guy here with another newb question I drive an 86 nissan s12 and one of the mods is using either an n60 maxima maf or the n62 300zxtt maf well I got my hands on the n60 maf from what I was told was a 94 but not sure. What I need to know is what wire does what so my install of this will go smoother than me just guessing lol

ok
white= 12v constant (I was told)
Black= ground
orange=????
black and white=????

here are some pics of the maf so you can see what I'm working with...


The pic is kinda blurry sorry but the numbers read
2268016v00 a36-000 n60 8x19l Not sure if that helps or not



thanks for the help it is greatly apreciated.

 

89-90 or 91-94 is what i've always seen

anyhow, i disagree with your suggestion.

if you just want stock disc brakes, go with the 91-94, cuz the pads and caliper are bigger. ONLY get the 89-90 setup if you plan to upgrade to the z31 rotor (1.1" larger than the maxima rotor), because it's easier to find the 91-94 stuff you need (tqmember, caliper, pads, ebrake cables) later than it is to find the 89-90 part (adapter plate on strut housing) you need when completing the z31-rotor upgrade.

 

Anybody?

 

go to autozone.com they have online wiring diagrams

 

Thank you guy's for the replys!! I will go out and look for the parts at the wreckers.I just did the 9004 to 9007 headlamp change to my 1990 maxima.I found the info here on this forum. This is a great site!!!
Thank's again
Ezra

 

if he goes later then it becomes an issue when it is time to replace parts.

 

i've got a funny buzzer noise that i've never had before when i put the keys in the ignition and start the car. The buzzer goes off immediately after the car starts, lasts about 3 secs, and then goes away completely. my car has sat w/ the battery off since april, and i have no idea what the buzzer is for, i've never heard the car make any noise similar to it.

 

how come? which parts, specifically?

 

hey everybody, noob here, i've got a 90 maxima , with an ignition problem , got in the car one day & it wouldnt start , did some checking & found i had no spark, after some testing i found the ign. module (transistor) no good, so i replaced it , started the car , let it run for about 2 minutes , shut it off , whent to start it agian , no spark agian , replaced ign. module agian (i tested it before putting it in , its good ), crank the car , no start, checked the new module , NO GOOD, something is frying this thing,i checked the wiring , i got a 12v power & ground , but the signal from the ecm is 12v , should the be 12v or should it be a 5v signal , i've got another module , but i dont want to put this one in & fry it too.......... anybody have any ideas ?

 

could it be that your seatbelt isn't buckled?

 

his car is a 1990. when he (or the next owner)goes in looking for parts they will be asking for parts for a 1990, not a 1992. It just causes confusion when buying parts. It's one thing to do a whole brake upgrade with "mismatched" parts. Typically you'll realize the difference before you have the car in pieces and are wondering why nothing matches. when it is just stock, things look similar enough to cause forgetfulness until the car is in pieces.

 

oh ok. yea, if i ever sold my car i'd have to provide a LIST of year/model corrections for people haha. front brakes (everything), rear brakes (everything), front hubs, axles, transmission and seals, timing belt, injectors, and eventually, headlight bulbs.

 

and watch them lose it, been there before.

 

heh yea. for me, it's in my head. i've only screwed up once by buying the wrong part after a conversion (actually i got the wrong year Z rotors at first) but it is quite a list that i have to remember haha.

 

no, i dont think the canadian cars have anyhting that tells you your seatbelt isn't on? plus my seatbelt was on when the buzzer was going off. it isn't doing it anymore though?

 

jw, is there any difference in the brake lines in ABS/non-ABS models of our cars?

 

no clue then.
the hoses, no. The metal lines, yes. The ABS unit is in the right front of the car. A non-ABS car has the lines coming from the master cylinder.

 

I have a problem with my 90 gxe max i found that i had a gas leak that was making my car run weird, i fixed the leak ran fine for a few days now my car is having a problem running seems like its on four cylinders sometimes it will cut to running just fine but it will go back to the same deal. Im thinking the mass or injectors any tips?

 

(formally steinburnerseninedeuce)

So I got my 92 se five speed last week. (Pics coming soon I promise. The interior is really clean). 140, new alt, brakes, hoses, ball joints, arms. Seller told me I probably need a new muffler, and there's a small oil leak. He says it's probably due to a worn out crank seal. I'm going to take it to my local mechanic this weekend.

I decided to take this baby for a spin and noticed a few problems and would love a veteran 3rd Gen owner to help me out.


After starting the car, I can hear a high pitch grinding noise from the engine. Is it probably due to a bad VTC?

It's hard to shift to third gear sometimes. Anyone else have that same problem?

And finally,(this one puzzles me the most). I'd say one in about 25 times, when I shift it to third, the engine mysteriously dies, and I have to roll it to the the side of the road on neutral and wait for it to come to a complete stop and start it again. Any reasons on that?

Thanks for reading this long post, I know I'm a newb, so please take me lightly. Thanks again and God Bless!

 

Grinding at start up? does it go away quickly or there all the time? If it last for just a less than a second I would say the starter, but if its lasting longer than that you shouldn't drive it anyway plus VTC tick tick not a grind

as for hard to go into third, is the tranny loud as in you can hear the tranny over your (bad) muffler or to the point that you know that growling sound isn't a good one I would say Input Shaft Bearing and all three of my trannys hated third gear but the oe i have now just hates down shifting to it

That the best i can do sure some of the guys will chime in here and help you with the stalling issue and their thought on what i have said good luck and welcome to the forum

 

Bad VTC's make a "clacking" sound, sounds just like a lifter tick. The grinding sound you are hearing is most likely a bad input shaft bearing in your transmission(common issue on the manual trans in these cars). See if the noise goes away when you push the clutch in while sitting still in neutral. If the noise is still there, then you may have a bad bearing in one of the tensioner pulleys for the drive/accessory belts, usually it's the a/c tensioner bearing that goes bad first.

 

Most likely you have a few bad injectors, the mass air flow sensor will usually not cause a miss or sputter, they usually cause the car to not idle(stalling at idle), but will drive down the road fine.

check the resistance of the injectors with an ohm/multimemter, just touch the positive/negative tips of the tester to each male pole on the injector. if good they will read between 11-14 ohms, anything other then that is a bad injector.

Also, be sure their is no corrosion(greenish looking dust) on the injectors poles and inside the wire harness connectors on the injectors. if you find corrosion, use some eletrical parts cleaner spray and a small wire brush to clean the corrosion off.

 

I'm having transmission issues on my 93 GXE. Reverse and first seem to work fine. If I leave thte OD switch engaged, when it shifts out of first it's like your in neutral. If I disengage the OD, it will shift into second at about 4500 rpm and stay engaged. I assume I'm looking at a rebuild, but wanted to get more input in case it is something simple.

Thanks, Eric

 

What pound of fuel of fuel injector will i need to boost my vg30e

 

jeez i wish i had the money some of u forum people have to be able to boost my damn VG lol...im still fixing little bits and pieces here and there to get her back to par lol

 

here is a video I made starting up my car. Along with the rough idling, it might be the VTC.....




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTKng3-Kaig


along with another problem I discovered.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuG2kpCeha0

Thanks.

 

Seems like the rod bearings might be twisted. If so i would replace and change oil pump.

 

second video is "private," can't view...