yes it is stock. you will need an antenna adapter to connect to the factory antenna.

such a noob question im gonna post it here

ive got some mitsubishi eclipse rims that apparently fit 3rd gens, its just that i need coned bolts. do most tire places have the coned bolts or do i need to order them from Nissan?

Thanks for all the helpful info .... I read somewhere on here how to bypass the amps if I need to do all that......

coned bolts? the lugnuts on your car already should have a tapered end on them to help center the wheel. i assume this is what you mean. All wheels designed for a car with M12-1.25 lugs SHOULD have the same taper, so you should be fine with what you have.

weird, i took it to one place and they said i would need coned bolts for them to fit. that was dead winter and now that its summer i can throw them on since they have racing rubber on them

it it matters at all its these rims. i'll throw them on monday or tuesday

well you can't attach a wheel to a maxima with a bolt... some cars do use bolts (like some BMWs i think) rather than lugs and lugnuts. but we have lugs and lugnuts, so just throw them on and that should be that.

Is there anyone selling the E36's? already fitted for the 3gen? and does anybody have pix of how clear they are because my regular headlamps seem real dim to me

cool, i'll throw them on then

they also said that theres no way they will fit since theyre 17's, and they said nothing over 15" will fit a stock height maxima. i know 3 people in the city here with 17's and 18's????

tell them to guzzle down a nice, tall glass of "STFU". Keep in mind the people you are talking to are about as smart as the average sewer rat.

You can fit larger wheels on ANY car as long as you trim down the profile of the tire. Stock is what, 205-65-15? I run 225-50-17 (middle number is the profile.. multiply it by width to get the section height) on my car and they fit just fine.

to convert tire size to outside diameter use this forumla (25.4mm = 1in):
P(width)/(profile)R(rim_diameter) -> (2*profile/100*width/25.4)+rim_diameter

My P225/50R17 tire is (2*50/100*225/25.4)+17 or ~25.9"
A stock P205/65R15 tire is (2*65/100*205/25.4)+15 or ~25.5"

so you see by making the middle number smaller, you can keep the outside diameter basically the same.

good thing i know now, i almost sold the mitsubishis. i got them for killer cheap and in mint condition but i figured if theyre not gonna fit i may as well try to get back what i paid for them rather than them sitting in the garage.

the place that told me that doesnt know much, they even said a magnaflow cant go on a maxima??? went to a different place, 2 hours later full new magnaflow exhaust on the 92

I'm putting in my intake, and I would like to know...How in the hell do you remove the MAF adapter section from the pipe? It won't come off,and I don't want to break it or anything. Is it clips? twisting ? or what. Thanks

what part? the one with no bolts?

i think you are just supposed to pull,im not sure since i havent attempted to take it off in a while

if you are trying to remove the tube from the air box, you uscrew the clamp, and twist a little. if you are trying to remove the adapter from the air box, there are some screws that you undo, or rivets that need to be drilled(can't remember, only looked once or twice).
if you are trying to unplug the harness from the maf, there is a little clip, which can be undone with a small flat-head screw driver(be careful not to let it go flying...)

4 bolts to remove maf from airbox

I have a 91 maxima and it has been acting up last night it was hard to start so I replaced plugs and fuel filter and it ran smooth as silk I come home turn it off and now it will not start at all! so I changed the coil and wires & cap & rotor button still nothing ! im getting spark on the plugs and fuel to the filter but it acts like theres no gas to the injectors . I just installed new injectors last month and all has been fine until now . Could the fuel preshure regulator cause this ? please HELP

how did you check for fuel at the filter? after cranking it a little bit, remove a spark plug and see if there is wetness (fuel) on it or not. Also (heaven forbid this is the problem) crank it with your disty cap off to make sure the rotor is still spinning with the engine. Also check your ECU error codes for anything the ECU might find.

my friend gave me a pipe that imma make into a intake and i was wondering what is this on the stock pipe? it looks like something with the egr.


would it be a good idea to weld a tip like that to the pipe im making?


oh and what is the difference on the end of the shifters?
maxima

old rx7

So I have error code 51 - fuel injector circuit open. I don't really know what that means, and how that would help me considering there are 6 cylinders. The car runs really well and there are no other trouble codes. How do I clear it? I suppose if it comes back I will have something to fix.

that pipe on the intake is for the idle air control valve. you need to have that attached to the intake so that all air entering the engine through that valve is accounted for by the MAF. The EGR pipe is the metal pipe going from the front exhaust manifold up to the disc-shaped valve underneath the front driverside of the intake manifold.

the difference between shifters is that on many (not all... z32 being an exclusion) RWD cars have the shifter attaching DIRECTLY into the aft end of the transmission, whereas on all FWD cars (and some RWD cars) you have either rods (like we do) or cables (like the Eclipse and 3.5L Maxima) that remotely control the transmission. Cliffs: that RX-7 shifter wont work, period.

pull your spark plug wires (if you have a VG) or coilpack harness wires (if you have a VE) one at a time until you find a cylinder whose unplugged-ness doesn't cause the idle to dip for a second. Turning off/unplugging the IACV will make it more apparent because the ECU can't try and fix the idle if the IACV is unplugged.

IACV=idle air control valve? Which happens to be pictured in the post above?
Ugh. I see that injector replacement is a fairly involved process, how long could it take a first timer?

so im guessing that i shouldnt even attempt to ghetto rig it by cutting and welding. now to save up for a sts instead

I'm sorry to post this here but how would you know if the calipers are bad? I have a 92 GXE and recently my RPM is at 2500-3000 when driving 55-60MPH and then it would drop after about 20-25 minutes. This always happen after a cold start, warm up for 5min and drive 10min in city w/ street lights and when I hit the freeway it happens.

Would greatly appreciate your responses.

check your transmission fluid.

if your engine bay looks like that picture a few posts up then yes, the IACV is the cylindrical thing mounted to the intake with the 4 allen bolts with the hose running down to the main intake pipe. right next to the EGR valve there are 2 harness plugs, one 2x2 and one 2x3, the 2x3 one is the IACV plug.

if you work straight through you could finish an injector replacement in a day. just make sure you have everything you need ahead of time, like o-rings (if you are replacing individual injectors), new fuel injector line on the rails (do it while you're in there, better to fix a leak BEFORE it starts), intake gaskets, towels to stuff the intake ports while the intake is off, gasket scraper, etc. be super careful with the screws on the rails, they are soft and easy to strip. I think they are a #3 screwdriver instead of a #2 like you were probably gonna try and use.

nope. just bake your stock shifter in the oven to soften the ball then slide it to suit your needs. sliding it up makes throws shorter, but the angle of tilt will be very small. sliding the ball down makes the throws longer but increases the angle of tilt.... but if you then cut the shifter, you will shorten the throws regardless which way you moved the ball. I did the latter (ball down, cut shaft) and i had to do a LITTLE bit of grinding on the top of the rod to get it to clear a nut on the shifter base, but it wasn't too bad.

(these 3 posts should be moved to the n00b section next mod that sees this)

i dunno, sounds like normal T/C lockup to me. driving along at 2500rpm then drops after the tranny warms up peter, when you are driving along at the higher rpm, teasing the gas pedal DOES slightly change the RPM (maybe +/- 150 rpm depending how much you tease the pedal) but question is, AFTER the rpm drops, does teasing the gas pedal still have the rpm changing slightly or does it stay dead-on like a stickshift car?

dont know how stupid this is going to sound, but would it be possible to rig up Skyline tail lights on a 3rd gen? ive always liked the way skyline tail lights look. im getting my 3rd gen painted this summer and getting the whole useless tail light part that is on the trunk painted over so just the actual left/right tail lights will be left and just swap them out

something like this. would i need alot of rewiring?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...Q5fAccessories

hello I'm a newb here (obv) and my brother had picked up a maxima (91) a long time ago for a project for $75 but never got round to it, and he's giving it 2 me once I have room...

anyways, are there any complete engine rebuild threads, or complete car rebuild threads on here? I did a search, but only found threads that were asking how much it costs... I'm a DIY type of person, and ddon't want to send anything into the shop if I can help it (though might have to let it get bored..)

any links?

those would look nice, but I think rewiring would be the least of your concerns. there is an incredible amount of body work that will need to be done to get those to fit right. but if you do it (or get it done, which means $$$$$$$$$$$$$), it will look good!
(wiring those would be nearly as easy as wiring a new radio, to give you an idea of how hard that would be)

i saw a 3rd gen GXE on car domain with them and it looked sick. its something i want to get done eventually, as long as its possible i'll give it a try

well, an engine is an engine, so if you believe you can build it, you can take general info from other engins(ford, chevy, honda), and apply it to a vg engine.
between the Haynes manual, and the FSM (available here, download them all), you should have enough info to get one rebuilt to factory specs.
you may also want to expand your search to http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor-61/, which is geared more for HP than DD.

anything is possible with time and money....want a rb26 powered, awd Maxima? it could happen...

(this is a little easier, tho... just a little sheet metal to work)

ill try that as a summer project

oh for the ve lsd swap what else do i need besides the tranny and shafts

tanks alot for the info just asked becouse I have allready done some reading and it seams a bit more advanced then the Buik 3800 I'm familiar with. also I enjoy looking at what I have 2 work with before starting..

and on a side note.. is there no rep system on this site? (or else I would have given you a +rep..)

thanks

what i really want is a RWD 3rd gen that would cost so much though that i could just buy a freakin skyline instead

do you already have a 5spd, just a VG? if so, you need the tranny of course, and then you need to either swap the VE hubs onto your car (if the bearings are good, just swap the whole steering knuckle), or to pop the outer joints off your VG axles and install them in lieu of the outer joints that came on your VE axles (so you can keep your VG hubs)

found 'er. looks sick

well i would say any engine with the same head setup is basically the same. i can work on a OHC hydraulic-lifter engine (like replacing lifters or rocker shafts, etc), but i wouldn't feel right messing with a pushrod engine, etc.

those are R33 iirc, same ones Jonmandude has.